^Ijllvif^li!:!"-^!^!^^ 

••: :  ::v''"'--'":.<::;-;;;  '-••"'  •':.•:•',••;  wX'r  '"'•'> :'. 


r:4t»Ipp8! 

*«Bm 


1*1181 

i  ffiK!  B  5  i:.v?,:.:">;^:'  !ii  wia>!f '.-  .''•::';;:;;  ;'••.••• 


WINDOW  GARDENING. 


DEVOTED  SPECIALLY  TO 


THE  CULTURE  OF  FLOWERS 


AN1> 


ORNAMENTAL  PLANTS, 


JN    DOOPV]JSEAND    -pARLOH    DECORATION, 


EDITED      BY 


HENRY   T.    WILLIAMS. 


FOURTEENTH  EDITION. 


NEW    YORK: 


rr_ 

OFFICK  OF  THK  HORTICULTURIST 

1878. 


Entered  accor  ling  to  Act  M  Congress,  in  the  year  one  thousand  eight  hnndred  and  seventy  on.\ 

BY  HENRY  T.  WILLIAMS, 
in  the  ofUce  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress,  at  W"^L  'ngton,  D.  C. 


PREFACE 


THE  taste  for  Window  Gardening  and  the  plant  decoration  of  apartments 
is  becoming  universal :  scarcely  a  cottage  or  villa  but  has  its  attempts, 
whether  simple  or  elaborate,  to  decorate  the  windows,  the  porch,  or  the 
balcony  with  some  few  flower-pots  or  climbing  vines;  it  is  a  sign  of  healthy 
sentiment,  for  the  presence  of  flowers  always  aids  in  the  development  of  re- 
finement and  an  elevated  taste. 

This  volume  has  been  written  specially  as  a  help  and  an  encouragement  to 
ladies  and  all  flower- lovers,  to  assist  them  with  judicious  hints  and  sugges- 
tions in  their  efforts  to  make  home  more  beautiful  by  the  use  of  plants 
around  their  windows  or  balconies. 

With  the  exception  of  a  very  lew  pages,  properly  credited  to  English 
writers  (Mr.  Robinson  and  Shirley  Hibberd,  upon  subjects  as  yet  unfamiliar 
to  American  readers),  the  literary  matter  of  this  volume  is  entirely  original, 
being  contributed  by  the  Editor,  and  assisted  by  several  American  writers, 
enthusiastic  flower  lovers,  who  have  cheerfully  written  articles  on  special 
topics. 

The  aim  has  been  to  produce  a  volume  suited  to  American  uses,  which 
would  be  simple,  reliable,  adapted  to  the  needs  of  amateurs  and  beginners 
in  home  plant  culture,  yet  abundant  in  suggestions  of  the  many  ways  to 
render  home  attractive. 

Previous  editions  of  this  volume  have  been  called  for  rapidly,  and  received 
with  marked  pleasure,  and  it  is  hoped  that,  in  this  new  edition,  where  the 
errors  of  former  editions  have  been  corrected,  the  reader  will  still  continue 
to  show  favor  toward  a  work  issued  rather  for  the  public  good  than  the  per- 
sonal emolument  of  the  author. 

Should  the  interested  reader  feel  pleased  with  this  little  testimonial  to  one 
of  the  most  beautiful  of  all  departments  of  flower  culture,  and  the  desire  of 
the  author  to  foster  the  fancy  for  window  ornament,  he  will  not  regret  his 
effort  to  add  some  definite  encouragement  to  the  more  extensive  development 
of  rural  taste. 

THE  EDITOR. 


##a«A1te 


Fl«.  I.— Decorative  Bird  Cage  and  Flower  Stsu 


WINDOW   GARDENING. 


CHLAJPTER   I. 

ITS  PLEASURES  —  INCREASE  IN  POPULAR  TASTE  —  REFINING 

INFLUENCES. 

No  home  of  taste  is  now  considered  complete  without  its  Window  Garden. 
Indeed  it  may  be  said  that  Window  Gardening  is  one  of  the  most  elegant,  satis- 
factory, yet  least  expensive  of  all  departments  of  Rural  Taste.  As  a  useful  means 
for  developing  a  taste  for  plant-life  and  a  love  for  flowers,  I  count  nothing  so 
effective  as  this  simple  style  of  gardening ;  for  who  has  not  noticed  that  where 
flowers  reign,  grace  of  mind  and  manner  soon  follow.  One  of  the  advantages  of 
Window  Gardening  is  its  simplicity,  open  to  every  one  and  impossible  to  none. 
Thousands  of  persons  confined  to  their  homes  for  the  greater  part  of  their  life  have 
no  greater  rural  estate  than  that  which  the  Window  Garden  affords.  To  watch 
the  unfolding  leaves  and  budding  flowers,  the  development  of  branch  after  branch, 
is  a  study  of  the  reality  of  plant-life,  exquisitely  interesting  to  the  soul  who  find* 
in  it  its  only  world  of  pleasure  and  sentiment. 

It  is  a  form  of  gardening  too,  of  permanent  use  and  value.  The  Window  Gar- 
den is  independent  to  a  large  degree  of  the  varying  seasons,  for  it  can  be  made 
attractive  every  month  in  the  year.  The  advent  of  Spring,  Summer  and  Autumn, 
only  render  the  plants  of  the  Window  Garden  more  luxuriant  and  make  the  flow- 
ers more  brilliant,  but  they  do  not  die  with  the  first  frost  or  cold  wind  in  winter 
When  the  prospect  without  is  dreary,  we  can  still  look  to  our  fern-cases  or 
window-boxes  or  hanging-baskets  and  behold  in  them  objects  of  increased  admi- 
ration, because  they  are  so  charming  in  their  contrast  with  the  desolateness  with 
out,  and  are  genial  remembrances  of  greener  days  gone  by. 

The  universal  popularity  of  Window  Gardens,  whether  large  or  small,  simple 
or  elaborate,  is  the  evidence  of  a  growing  taste  for  flowers  and  ornamental  plants 
in  all  circles  of  society.  We  have  only  to  notice  in  all  our  large  cities,  towns  and 
villages,  how  frequent  window  decorations  have  become,  sometimes  seeming  as  if 
not  a  single  house  was  without  them  in  many  of  our  most  fashionable  avenues.  IP 
European  cities  the  citizens  indulge  even  more  extensively  and  passionately  in  their 
plant  pleasures  than  we  do;  every  home  is  decorated  from  the  wo^kingman's 
window,  and  its  few  flower-pots  of  balsams,  to  the  fernery  and  tile  jardinieres  of  the 
aristocratic  mansion. 


g  WINDOW   GARDENING 

In  Brussels,  says  M  Victor  Paquet,  "  the  balconies  are  turned  into  greenhouses 
and  miniature  stoves,  gay  with  the  brightest  and  greenest  foliage.  And  in  Paris 
there  are  many  contrivances  in  use  by  means  of  which  the  rarest  and  most 
oeautiful  plants  are  produced.  Passifloras  cling  to  columns  in  the  upper  Jioors; 
water  plants  start  into  blossom  in  tiny  basins  curiously  contrived  in  solid  brick- 
work, and  limpid  water  flows  down  a  miniature  rockery  from  whose  crevices 
start  up  ferns  and  lycopodiums." 

The  rooms  of  the  Parisian  are  gay  with  flowers  replaced  freshly  every  day, 
and  in  the  denser  parts  of  London,  black  with  its  smoky  atmosphere,  may  be 
found  some  of  the  choicest  of  plant-cases.  An  English  writer  visiting  such  a 
locality  once  was  ushered  into  a  room  where  the  darkness  was  almost  felt,  but 
every  window  was  occupied  with  a  plant-case  in  which  plants  were  growing  in 
an  astonishing  manner.  Ferns  of  the  greenest  and  freshest  hue,  orchids  never 
surpassed,  were  there  in  redolent  health  and  vigor.  He  was  told  to  his  great 
surprise  that  the  cases  were  hermetically  sealed,  and  that  no  water  had  been  ad- 
ministered for  months 

There  is  a  never-failing  charm,  too,  in  the  outside  decorations  of  the  house  or 
Window  Gaiden.  The  trellis- work  of  the  balcony  may  be  made  ornamental  with 
green  foliage  and  its  homeliness  tastefully  hidden  The  ivy  will  cover  the  un- 
painted  wall  and  make  it  still  more  artistic.  The  verandah  can  be  soon  covered 
with  the  xnost  luxuriant  of  profuse  blooming  creepers.  Unsightly  objects,  bare 
gardens,  and  plain  fences  can  all  be  relieved.  In  fact  no  home  is  devoid  of  the 
means  of  tasteful  decoration.  And  so  many  and  easy  are  the  forms  of  window 
embellishments  at  the  present  day,  that  we  know  of  no  better  device  for  increas- 
ing the  elegancies  and»attractions  of  indoor  life. 

Window  Gardens,  too,  are  educators  of  taste.  In  our  large  cities  it  is  noticeable 
that  the  fair  occupants  of  the  wealthier  homes  are  themselves  practically  inter- 
ested in  window  ornament.  It  is  quite  the  fashion  for  their  own  hands  to  fill 
with  pretty  plants,  of  their  own  arrangement,  jardinieres  of  costly  die,  or  else 
place  them  in  baskets  of  rustic  yet  most  artistic  make  After  a  little  time  wher 
they  have  grown  to  appropriate  height,  or  the  drooping  plants  have  attained  suffi- 
cient length,  the  full  beauty  of  the  Window  Garden  is  apparent.  Visitors  are 
entranced  with  their  wondrous  beauty  and  are  free  with  their  exclamations  of 
delight.  The  passer-by  on  the  sidewalk  stops  for  a  moment  to  look  lovingly 
upon  the  cozy  bower  of  bloom  just  inside  the  glazed  window  pane.  When  pass- 
ing away,  he  still  keeps  it  in  mind,  and  long  afterwards  cherishes  the  memory  of 
this  artistic  beauty  spot.  Flowers  and  plants,  by  their  beauty  and  fragrance,  are 
always  in  harmony  with  rich  and  costly  furniture,  pictures  or  statuary. 

A  simple  flower  stand  near  the  window,  a  hanging  basket  over  head,  all 
shedding  their  perfume,  add  day  by  day  brightness  to  the  other  genialities  of  the 
home;  and  all  through  the  wintry  months,  furnish  food  for  pleasant  thoughts  ; 
a  single  plant  of  the  Ivy  trained  on  the  wail,  or  festooned  over  the  window,  is 
ft  joy  to  all  beholders 


WINDOW   GARDENING.  7 

Flowers,  plants  too,  often  supply  the  place  of  children  in  bereaved  homes; 
for  their  soul-refreshing,  heart-inspiring,  and  eye-brightening  influences,  are 
)oys  to  wean  the  thoughts  from  pain  or  sorrow. 

Some  mother  perhaps  cherishes  fondlv  in  her  home  a  few  beautiful  Fuchsias 
placed  on  a  stand  upon  the  window  sill  She  never  tires  of  looking  upon  their 
graceful  shapes,  or  the  brightly  colored  jewel  blossoms  drooping  downwards, 
for  they  remind  her  of  the  delight  they  once  gave  her  little  child  before  it  went  to  its 
angel  home  The  value  to  her  of  these  treasures,  with  their  brilliant  colors  and 
snowy  waxen  petals,  rose-colored  or  purple  corollas,  cannot  be  measured  with 
the  ordinary  expression  of  language 

Among  the  most  gratifying  signs  of  flora*  taste,  is  the  evidence  of  their  intro- 
duction into  school  rooms.  The  teacher  is  perhaps  fond  of  them  and  knows 
their  influence.  Their  very  delicacy,  forbidding  rougn  handling,  serves  to  impose 
a  wholesome  restraint  upon  the  children  ;  if  ever  they  are  tired  with  their  study, 
a  fe\vr  glances  at  the  windowsill,  and  its  pots  of  bloom,  wreathe  their  faces  with 
genial  smiles,  and  they  go  to  work  again  with  willing  hearts  and  refreshed 
thoughts.  The  curiosity  of  children,  too,  is  proverbial,  and  many  a  girl  learns  more 
of  nature  from  the  living  specimens  before  her,  than  from  the  dry  details  of  her 
book  of  botany 

Not  less  important  can  we  consider  flowers  and  plants,  as  the  best  and  most 
practical  educators  of  healthy  sentiment.  They  are  always  suggestive  of  purity 
and  refinement.  Nothing  is  so  conducive  to  cheerfulness,  or  creates  efforts  to 
make  home  attractive,  like  their  presence  in  the  household.  Constant  associa- 
tions with  such  objects  of  floral  beauty,  fits  people  to  rank  high  as  useful  mem- 
bers of  society.  A  floral  writer  has  already  expressed  these  sentiments  in  a 
most  charming  manner  . 

"  They  are  a  spring  of  sunshine,  a  constant  pleasure.  We  would  have  flowers 
in  every  home,  for  their  sunny  light,  for  their  cheerful  teachings,  for  their  insen- 
sibly ennobling  influence." 

As  an  amusement  for  the  invalid,  Window  Gardening  through  the  form  of  plant 
cases,  is  very  appropriate.  We  call  to  mind  an  instance  of  one  compelled  in 
consequence  of  a  bodily  infirmity,  to  take  up  a  residence  in  the  city. 

He  had  enjoyed  for  a  longtime  in  the  country  the  pleasures  of  the  green-house, 
and  endeavored  whilst  in  the  city  to  replace  it  once  more.  A  small  but  inexpen- 
sive three  light  green-house  was  erected  in  the  back  yard,  open,  airy.  There 
he  gratified  his  taste  for  floricultural  subjects  by  gathering  together  an  interesting 
collection  of  valuable  ferns  and  orchids.  In  an  upper  room  was  arranged  a  capa- 
cious fern  case,  and  there  the  invalid  would  spend  many  days  during  the  win- 
ter recumbent  upon  the  sofa  dilating  upon  the  pleasures  of  being  able  to  watch 
the  growth  of  a  vigorous  intertwining  mass  of  curious  forms  of  foreign  ferns,  many 
of  them  productions  from  distant  portions  of  the  globe,  New  Zealand,  India, 
Mexico,  Japan 

In  our  country  homes,  how  common  to  see  the  plant  stand  before  the  window 
with  its  dozen  or  so  Dots  of  Geraniums,  Primroses,  Azaleas,  &c.,  while  an  inva 


g  WINDOW   GARDENING. 

lid  sister  or  mother  reclines   in  the  easy  chair,   watching   it  for    hours    with 
delight,  unmindful  of  the   snow  driving  past  the  window  pane. 

The  refining  influence  of  the  flowers  is  no  where  more  apparent  than  in  our 
humble  cottage  homes  ;  for  there  it  is  the  young  maiden  cherishes  her  few  pet 
flowers,  with  a  deeper  affection  and  truer  love  than  even  the  skilled  gardener. 
Tnere  is  something  so  attractive  in  their  very  looks  that  none  can  resist  their 
sweet  and  winning  influence.  Perhaps  it  may  be  because  so  few  are  disappointed 
in  them,  or  expect  them  to  yield  a  measured  commercial  profit.  So  no  one's 
enthusiasm  is  gauged  by  dollars  and  cents. 

In  some  of  the  strangest  of  conditions,  there  is  often  the  most  delightful  dis 
play  of  floral  bloom  ;  the  prairie  log  cabin  may  often  contain  a  flourishing  win 
dow  garden,  with  as  choice  specimens  as  that  of  the  rich  amateur. 

Few  are  so  poor  but  they  can  find  room  for  a  few  boxes  and  pots  to  grow  plants 
and  beguile  the  long  winter  hours.  They  should  be  in  the  window  of  every  sit- 
ting room,  in  every  school-house,  that  children,  as  well  as  parents,  may  be  educa- 
ted to  the  appreciation  of  their  beauties,  and  their  taste  more  readily  cultivated 
and  encouraged. 

The  effects  of  window  gardening  become  more  clearly  seen  each  succeeding 
year.  Many  who  have  not  the  slightest  idea  of  how  a  plant  grows  will  obtain 
from  the  florist  a  simple  basket  of  Ivy.  Once  living,  it  needs  little  further  atten- 
tion ;  yet  the  eye  of  the  proprietor  often  wanders  upward  to  it,  and  as  the  tendrils 
reach  out,  twining  around  the  basket,  upward  or  downward,  his  senses 
are  gradually  interested,  and  in  time  other  plants  follow,  who  in  turn  are  studied. 
These  tempt  others,  mere  visitors,  to  try  the  same  experiment,  and  so  the  con- 
tagious enthusiasm  for  flowers  steadily  spreads.  In  every  state  the  love  for 
flowers  and  plants  is  on  the  increase.  The  business  of  our  florists  is  three  times 
larger  than  five  years  ago.  Our  cottagers  are  devoting  more. time  to  the  ornamen- 
tation of  door  yards  with  these  floral  gems,  and  the  window  sill  of  many  a  cot  has 
its  sugar  bowl  or  cracked  tea  pot,  doing  duty  for  a  flower  pot,  while  we  have 
often  seen  the  discarded  fruit  can,  in  some  wayside  ranchman's  cabin  in  the  inte- 
rior of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  blooming  with  balsams  or  portulacca.  All  classes 
respond  to  but  one  sentiment,  "  FLOWERS,  GIVE  us  FLOWERS." 

Beside  the  delights  of  window  gardening  in  opening  new  res'Hirces  of  amuse- 
ment, recreation  and  instruction,  which  nothing  else  can  give  to  the  home  circle, 
is  the  added  advantage  that  it  is  easy;  but  very  little  time  is  required  for  their 
culture.  Some  window  gardens  are  elaborate,  expensive,  and  are  suited  only 
for  those  of  scientific  taste,  but  by  far  the  most  successful  are  those  in  our  every 
lay  homes,  with  the  simplest  of  flowering  plants.  There  are  many  more  easy  plana 
for  house  gardening  than  difficult  ones.  The  little  physical  exercise  needed,  is  a 
relief  to  mental  pursuits,  and  a  variety  to  domestic  duties,  while  the  daily  growth 
of  each  plant  and  flower,  which  constitutes  the  chief  delight  of  the  young  flo- 
rist, and  the  beauty  and  elegance  of  his  little  garden,  form  a  crowning  gratifica- 
tion for  his  well  spent  hours,  and  stimulate  an  honest  and  desirable  pride. 

In  some  of  tne  poorest  quarters  of  London  there  may  be  found  at  any  time  hand- 


WINDOW   GARDENING  9 

somer  Balsams  than  any  professional  ever  raised,  while  some  of  the  finest  new 
Chrysanthemums  ever  produced  it  is  said  have  originated  in  the  window  garden 
of  some  of  these  humble  citizens. 

A  quaint  old  English  writer  calls  this  form  of  home  pleasure,  "  Fenestral  Gar. 
dening"  (Hortus  Fenestralis)  expressive  of  the  decoration  of  rooms  with  green 
drapery  from  the  garden.  Many  are  deterred  from  the  commencement  of  a 
window  garden,  or  the  care  for  cases  of  plants,  on  account  of  the  supposed  trouble. 

There  are  really  but  few  requisites  to  success.  If  any  are  ignorant  of  the 
plants  or  their  proper  arrangement,  read  these  pages  and  learn  how  many  simple 
forms  may  be  adopted  to  make  every  house  garden  alive  with  plant  beauty,  and 
yet  require  only  a  half  hour  per  day.  A  hanging  basket  or  two,  a  window  box  or 
row  of  bulb  glasses,  a  wardian  case  or  fernery,  att  are  easy.  Once  set,  they  need 
little  care.  In  the  other  departments  of  propagation  and  culture,  a  little  time, 
patience,  and,  best  of  all,  trials  of  experience,  will  soon  render  the  knowledge  easily 
acquired. 

To  have  some  few  choice,  fragrant,  beautiful  flowers  in  mid  winter  when  there  is 
no  green  thing  in  sight,  save  the  dense  evergreen  of  the  forest,  or  the  garden 
hedge  of  spruce,  prompts  many  to  an  assiduous  care,  and  a  hearty  devotion  to 
such  plant  treasures.  Yet  the  recompense  is  worth  the  labor. 

The  matchless  beauty  which  nature  once  bestowed  on  the  gardens  without,  is 
now  restored  and  perpetuated  within  ;  and  to  many  a  fair  finger  deftly  handling 
the  tender  plant,  the  exquisite  embroidery  of  the  leaf,  or  coloring  of  tho  flower, 
will  form  objects  for  the  eye  to  rest  upon  with  unwearied  delight. 


WINDOW   GARDENING. 


Fig.  3.-  Design  for  Window  Gardeo 


CHAJPTER    II. 

CONSTRUCTION,  LOCATION  AND  DESIGNS  FOR  WINDOW  GARDENS. 

The  Window  Gardener  has  choice  of  a  great;  number  of  designs  for  the  gratifica- 
tion of  his  taste.  The  Window  Box  of  Evergreens,  Ferns,  or  Ornamental  Plants ; 
the  Jardiniere,  the  Hanging  Basket,  the  row  of  Bulbglasses,  the  Plant  Cabinet, 
the  Fernery,  Wardian  Case  or  Conservatory,  may  all  be  his :  while  Flower 
Stands,  Etagere  and  Mantel  Piece  Gardens,  and  other  floral  elegancies,  are  of 
great  variety  and  tasteful  construction.  Nothing,  however,  has  so  decided  an 
effect  as  broad  leaved  plants  in  the  window  sill. 

Our  engraving  opposite  (Fig.  2)  is  a  sketch  of  a  library  window,  about  3  feet 
wide,  and  6  high,  with  book  shelves  on  either  side,  and  a  closet  below  for  pam- 
phlets. The  window  sill  is  made  of  extra  width,  say  14  inches.  Here  is  placed 
a  simple  tray  of  about  3  inches  in  depth,  made  to  fit  the  sill  exactly :  the  in- 
terior is  coated  entirely  with  tin  and  rendered  proof  against  leakage.  The  tray 
is  filled  with  fresh  mould  from  the  woods,  and  then  the  plants  are  put  in.  At 
each  end  is  an  English  Ivy,  and  the  spaces  between  are  filled  with  native  hardy 
ferns,  which  usually  are  found  out  doors  near  our  woods,  remaining  green 
down  to  the  coldest  winds  and  frosts  of  Autumn. 

If  the  front  of  the  box  is  too  plain  it  may  be  decorated  with  a  few  acorns, 
and  strips  of  chestnut. 

About  midway  up  the  window  is  thrown  across  a  miniature  rustic  bridge,  upon 
which  is  still  another  but  narrower  tray,  with  lighter  and  more  delicate  ferns, 
such  as  the  maiden's  hair.  This  rustic  bridge  may  be  decorated  with  a  lat- 
tice of  the  bright  red  dogwood,  mingled  with  the  white  shoots  of  the  linden.  On 
the  top  of  the  window,  as  a  cornice,  some  rustic  branch  from  one  of  our  wild 
forest  trees,  may  be  selected,  twisted  and  crooked  ;  yet  affording  numerous  brack- 
ets for  climbing  plants  to  rest  upon.  Upon  this  moss-covered  bark  the  Ivy  of 
the  lower  box  is  expected  soon  to  grow  up  to  and  crawl  over,  throwing  its  ten- 
drils right  and  left,  and  filling  it  full  with  green  foliage.  A  little  hanging  bas- 
ket from  the  rustic  archway,  fills  out  the  uniqueness  of  the  picture,  and  the 
landscape  view  beyond  is  in  a  measure  enhanced  by  the  agreeableness  of  the 
standpoint  from  which  we  view  it. 

In  some  of  the  finer  parts  of  London,  where  Window  Gardens  are  dressed  in 
highest  elegance,  there  is  a  very  popular  form  of  Window  Garden,  consisting  of 
a  glass  case,  projecting  beyond  the  window  sashes,  somewhat  like  a  little  glass 
bow-window.  (Fig  3,  4.)  These  are  made  in  every  style,  with  rustic  work  in 
front,  or  of  an  architectural  character  to  harmonize  with  the  style  of  the  building. 


12 


WINDOW  GARDENING 


The  sills,  too,  are  made  broad,  and  thus  afford  peculiar  conveniences  for  their  safe 
position.  Wealthy  citizens  who  return  from  the  country  at  close  of  the  summer 
find  these  glass  gardens  ready  filled,  and  charmingly  arrayed  with  ferns,  ever- 
greens and  flowering  plants,  which  will  last  throughout  the  entire  winter.  In  the 
spring  time  these  give  place  to  Roses,  Fuchsias,  Pelargoniums,  and  a  variety  of 
other  plants  suitable  for  each  season.  They  are  exceedingly  simple,  and  besides 
affording  a  world  of  gratification  to  the  inmates  of  the  house  they  are  a  great 
addition  to  the  exterior  ornaments  of  the  building.  They  are  not  common  in  this 


Fig.  3. 

country,  and  it  would  be  quite  an  object  for  some  dealer  in  horticultural  elegancies 
here  to  make  a  specialty  of  them,  for  as  soon  as  known  they  will  be  greatly  in  de- 
mand. The  construction  is  as  follows  •  The  lower  window  sash,  is  omitted  entirely, 
and  the  glass  case  inserted  in  its  place,  is  of  sufficient  height  to  reach  to  the  upper 
sash.  The  base  should  be  of  one  stout  slab  of  slate,  resting  upon  the  lower  win- 
dow sill,  and  extending  outward  from  1  foot  to  2  feet,  and  the  same  distance  in- 
ward. If  the  window  is  large,  2  feet  each  ssde  of  the  sash  will  not  be  too  large. 
An  iron  frame  is  then  cast  of  just  sufficient  length  and  width  to  set  upon  the  slab, 


WINDOW  GARDENING. 


which  may  be  fastened  firmly  to  it.  The  glass  sides  are  fitted  into  the  frame  be- 
forehand, which  is  curved  at  the  top,  and  a  tray  inside  filled  with  soil  holds  the 
plants.  In  many  cases  the  plant  case  is  double,  (i.  e.,)  the  lower  window  sash  is 
not  removed  at  all,  but  shuts  down  upon  the  slab  of  slate,  and  the  plant  case  is 
divided  into  two  parts,  each  rising  and  curving  upward  to  the  window.  Such 
cases  can  be  made  by  any  manufacturer  of  glassware  and  metal  casting,  but  should 
be  well  and  tightly  fitted ;  as,  also,  very  thick  glass  should  be  used  as  a  protection 
against  the  weather.  For  the  purposes  of  examination  and  cleaning  or  handling 


IMIIIII|W''llllllllllllllllll!illllI 

Fig.  4. 


the  plants,  a  glass  slide  or  door  can  be  provided  in  the  side  within  the  room.  These 
designs  will  be  found  most  suitable  in  our  changeable  climate  for  mild  weather 
only,  as  we  fear  they  would  not  afford  sufficient  protection  against  cold.  To  some 
the  objection  might  occur  that  they  hide  the  view  of  the  street  from  the  interior, 
but  this,  with  others,  might  be  just  the  desideratum  wished  for;  yet  it  will  be 
found  in  time  that  it  excludes  light  and  air  to  a  considerable  degree.  Another 
item  must  be  provided  for.  Water  must  necessarily  be  used  for  the  plants,  and 
there  should  be  a  place  of  escape.  The  box  for  holding  the  soil  should  be  from 
4  to  6  inches  deep,  and  the  bottom  must  be  covered  with  broken  pieces  of  charcoal 


14 


WINDOW  GARDENING 


or  bricks  about  the  size  of  walnuts,  then  a  sprinkling  of  sand  and  other  pieces  of 
brick  broken  still  smaller  to  about  the  size  of  a  pea  should  be  mixed  with  peat, 
and  with  this  compost  the  box  may  be  filled  up.  Cases  of  this  kind  are  usually 
found  in  London,  already  prepared  with  plants,  only  needing  the  proper  dimen- 
sions to  be  soon  fitted  to  any  window. 

The  best  plants  for  these  cases  are  ferns,  which  require  but  ordinary  attention, 
and  the  cultivator  will  also  observe  not  to  place  them  in  a  southern  window ;  a 


Fig.  5. 

northern  or  western  one  will  be  much  better  for  they  need  little  or  no  heat.  As 
these  cases  cannot  be  heated,  so  no  plants  should  be  placed  in  there  which  require 
artificial  warmth. 

A  very  pretty  design  has  been  originated  by  a  German  gardener  of  a  combined 
window  case  aquarium  and  fernery.  (Fig.  5.)  This  occupies  the  window  from  tne 
sill  to  top  of  the  upper  sash  The  tank  within  contains  slate  slabs  of  consider- 
able height,  say  one-third  of  the  whole  window  on  the  autside  of  the  case,  the 
inner  side  nearest  the  room  being  of  glass  to  afford  a  view  of  the  interior.  This 
slab  is  necessary  to  avoid  the  effect  of  the  sun's  rays  which,  when  passing  through 


WINDOW  GARDENING. 


15 


a  globe  or  aquarium  of  water,  concentrate  upon  the  floor  and  burn  the  carpet 
Specimens  of  rock  work  are  introduced  at  the  sides  or  in  the  rear  of  the  case ;  on 
their  top  are  placed  some  pots  containing  ferns  drooping  over  and  covering  the 
vacancies  all  up.  If  conveniences  are  at  hand  a  little  fountain  may  be  introduced, 
and  be  constantly  throwing  up  its  tiny  streams  of  water.  All  this  requires  great 
pains  of  preparation.  The  window  completely  shuts  out  the  street  view  and  is 
lighted  only  from  the  top,  yet  is  a  great  curiosity  and  with  some  will  be  worth 
the  trouble 

For  planting  in  such  cases  as  the  two  just  described,  the  best  plants  will  be  the 
common  English  Ivy,  (Hedera  helix,}  which  thrives  in  confined  places  of  this 
description  and  rapidly  throws  up  its  green  foliage.  The  Lygodium  scandens  and 
Lyoodium  Japotacum  a  :e  lovely  climbing-  ferns,  and  n*>*d  copper  wires  to  be  trained 


Fig.  6. 

to.  Trichomanes  radicans,  Hymenophyllum  Tunbridgense,  Asplenium  /on- 
tanum  are  moisture  lovers  and  generally  used  in  furnishing  tanks  for  the  aqua- 
rium. A  suggestion  worth  heeding  is  to  be  remembered  :  do  not  commit  the  error 
of  procuring  too  large  fish  for  the  aquarium;  small  varieties  such  as  the  gold  carp 
are  most  suitable,  and  for  every  two  gallon  capacity  of  the  water  tank,  put  in 
one  carp.  Of  water  plants  the  best  is  Vallisnena  spiralis,  which  will  grow  among 
pebbles  if  left  undisturbed.  Conferva  may  be  introduced  and  allowed  to  run 
over  the  rock  or  sides  of  the  aquarium. 

A  very  pretty  home  design,  hardly  called  a  Window  Garden,  yet  affording  room 
for  some  decoration,  is  that  of  a  bee  hive  in  the  window.  Such  a  hive  was  actually 
placed  in  front  of  one  of  the  library  windows  of  the  late  J.  C.  Loudon,  the  famous 
landscape  gardener.  This  window  was  protected  by  a  verandah,  and  the  front  of 


16 


WINDOW   GARDENING. 


the  hive  was  placed  on  a  line  with  its  pillars,  and  was  consequently  protected 
from  perpendicular  rain,  but  as  the  excessive  heat  of  summer  is  equally  injurious 
as  rain,  he  had  the  hive  protected  from  that  and  from  the  sudden  influence  of 
either  heat  or  cold,  by  a  casing  of  broom  and  heather  intertwined.  For  exainin 
ing  the  bees  at  work,  the  back  of  the  hive  nsxt  the  window  had  a  sliding  door  of 
wood  covering  a  square  of  plate  glass,  so  that  when  the  door  was  lifted  the  bees 
could  be  seen  at  work.  The  engraving  (Fig.  6)  also  affords  to  any  one  an  idea 
of  decorating  the  outside  of  the  window  with  climbing  vines;  the  Wistaria  being 
v  dch  the  most  permanent  and  rapid  growing.  This  will  be  found  a  most  inter- 


esting feature  to  children  and  visitors,  and  it  will  add  much  to  the  convenience 
of  position  if  the  window  is  low  and  near  the  ground. 

One  of  the  problems  every  window  gardener  has  to  solve  is,  to  allow  his  plants 
all  needful  light,  air  and  warmth,  and  yet  protect  them  on  the  one  hand  from 
either  the  dry  heat  of  the  living  room  warmed  by  a  furnace  or  stove,  and  on  the 
other  side  from  penetrating  draughts  of  cold  air 

This  has  been  solved  in  many  cases  already,  by  the  building  of  plant  cabinets, 
occupy  not  only  the  whole  recess  of  the  window,  but  are  built  out  some- 


WINDOW    GARDENING. 


17 


what  into  the  room,  and  the  entire  interior  inclosed  with  glass  sides  or  doors  as  a 
partition  from  the  room.  In  every  case  that  has  come  to  our  notice,  where  plants 
have  been  separated  alike  from  the  dry  injurious  air  of  the  living  room  and  the 
outside  atmosphere,  there  has  been  the  highest  success.  It  is  easy  to  attain  a 
good  uniform  temperature,  and  the  noxious  fumes  of  the  gas  from  stove,  grate  or 
gas  burners,  are  fully  protected  against.  The  design  introduced  here,  (Fig.  7,) 
is  a  glass  case  constructed  in  front  of  a  window  and  projecting  into  the  room  with 
a  door  opening  into  it  so  that  it  can  be  easily  entered.  It  would  be  well  to  build 
the  floor  of  this  house  of  wood,  and  a  little  higher  than  that  of  the  room  so  that 
if  necessary  it  can  be  removed  without  injury  to  the  house.  The  lower  portions 
of  the  case  to  the  height  of  about  two  feet  should  be  of  wainscot.  Inside  the 


Fig.  8  Fig.  9. 

cabinet  this  patieling  is  lined  with  leaden  troughs  communicating  with  each 
other,  and  having  a  slight  slope  towards  another  trough  lower  than  all  the  rest; 
it  should  be  so  contrived,  that  any  water  drainingfrom  the  pots  or  boxes  containing 
the  plants,  may  run  off  into  the  lower  trough  which  should  have  no  flower  pots  in  it. 
In  these  troughs  should  be  placed  wooden  or  slate  boxes  filled  with  earth  in 
which  climbing  plants  are  placed  alternately  with  Orange  Trees,  Camellias  or 
flowering  shrubs,  so  that  they  can  be  seen  from  the  room.  It  is  supposed,  also, 
that  the  outside  window  is  a  bow-window  or  at  any  rate  projects  beyond  the  sides 
of  the  house.  It  should  also  have  a  sliding  window  at  the  top  or  bottom  in  case 
ventilation  is  desired,  but  cold  air  must  not  be  admitted  without  imperative  neces- 
sity. This  design  may  be  on  too  large  a  scale  for  ordinary  purposes,  but  it  serves 
to  illustrate  the  idea  that  plants  always  thrive  best  when  placed  in  rooms  entirely 
by  themselves.  In  such  a  cabinet  a  most  glorious  opportunity  is  afforded  for 
decorating  the  sides  of  the  interior  with  climbing  vines,  the  ivy,  convolvulus,  or  any 
other  with  showy  colored  flowers. 


18 


WINDOW  GARDENING 


Ffg.  10. 


Fig.  11. 

Fig.  14  is  still  another  design  actually  in  use  in  one  of  our  central  New  York 
homes.  Here  is  a  bow  window  filled  with  two  boxes  supported  by  legs,  each  box  ten 
inches  deep  and  filled  inside  either  with  earth  or  separate  pots,  the  interspaces 
being  filled  in  with  moss  or  earth.  The  aim  is  to  give  a  chance  to  plants  with  fine 
contrasts  of  foliage ;  Pelargoniums,  Petunias,  Heliotropes,  Fuchsias,  Amaranth, 
Coleus,  Begonia,  Geraniums,  &c.  In  one  end  is  a  Maurandia  climbing  vine ;  in 
the  other  is  a  Mexican  Cobcea,  both  twining  and  drooping  over  the  wires  which 
rise  from  the  centre  of  the  box,  and  curve  towards  the  sides  aifording  a  delicate  dra- 
pery of  green.  A  hanging  basket  of  moss  hangs  over  each  box,  the  one  filled 
with  Oxalis  and  Tradescantia,  the  other  with  Ice  Plant.  In  the  vase  hanging  just 
over  the  middle  is  placed  a  Kenilworth  or  Coliseum  Ivy.  On  various  brackets 
below  are  placed  dishes  of  Ivy,  Ferns  and  Moneywort.  A  few  tall  plants  may 
be  introduced  to  advantage,  say  one  large  pot  full  in  the  centre  of  each  box.  In 
one  pot  Caladiums,  in  the  other  Calla  Lilies 


WINDOW  GARDENING 


19 


Belgian  Window  Gardens. 

These  are  built  outside  the  win- 
dow altogether.     A  slab  runs  out 
directly  from  the  window  sill  sup- 
ported by  brackets,  and  upon  this  ^ 
is  put  a  miniature  green-house,  con-  ,,.,... 

structed  of  glass  roof  and  wooden  

sides  like  designs  Nos.  8  &  9.  These  •- 

brackets  below  are  generally  very  — 

ornamental.  Two  or  three  shelves  j 
are  placed  inside  on  a  row  next  to 
the  window  well  supported  and 
covered  with  pots.  Care  is  taken 
not  to  let  the  case  go  too  high  to  ob- 
struct the  light  from  entering  the 
room,  and  ventilation  is  secured  in 
Fig.  8,  by  lifting  up  slightly  the 
lower  portion  of  the  glass  roof. 
The  plants  are  watered  and  arranged 
from  the  rooms  within,  as  the  win- 
dows do  not  slide  up  and  down,  but 
open  inwardly  on  hinges. 

Fig.  9  is  ventilated  by  a  door  at 
the  side  or  in  front.  An  awning 
may  be  provided  in  case  of  unusual 
heat  from  the  sun,  which  will  aid  in  keeping  the  atmosphere  cool,  and  prolong 
the  flowering  considerably  during  the  winter  time.  A  thick  covering  is  needed 
in  cool  days,  or  a  vessel  of  hot  water  may  be  placed  inside,  whose  vapor  will 
warm  the  little  room  greatly. 

Figs.  10  &  11  represent  a  good  continental  style  of  a  bow-window,  where 
olants  are  out  of  the  way  of  ordinary  passing  about  in  the  room.  Shelves  are 
arranged  around  the  entire  window,  and  upon  them  are  placed  the  pots  of  plants. 
In  this  case  they  should  be  of  highly  ornamental  foliage,  and  free  growth.  A 
curved  settee  is  placed  just  inside  the  row,  and  in  front,  just  at  the  entrance  of 
the  recess,  is  a  table  for  books. 

Fig.  12  is  a  design  for  a  rustic  window  box,  permanently  fastened  to  the  outer 
side  of  the  window  case,  decorated  with  Fuchsias,  Ivy,  Achyranthus,  and  droop- 
ing vines.  An  awning  with  brightly  colored  strips  .Ids  greatly  to  the  beauty. 

Among  the  more  wealthy  residents  of  German  cities,  a  plant  cabinet  is  often 
found  like  Fig.  13.  This  is  so  made  that  its  back  is  entirely  open,  and  it  can  be 
pushed  up  close  to  the  window,  fitting  it  snugly.  It  is  elaborately  decorated,  and 
quite  costly.  The  door  opens  into  the  room,  and  the  tops  are  ornamented  with 
pots  of  Cacti  and  Agaves.  This  is  much  the  handsomest  design  for  a  plant  cabi- 


Fi«.  12. 


20 


WIND  OW   GARD  ENIXG 


net  ever  illustrated.  The  in- 
terior is  filled  principally  with 
plants  of  stately  growth,  Coleus, 
Calla  Lily,  Canna,  Maranta, 
Dracaena,  Dieflenbachia,  &c. 

There  are  other  designs  of  still 
more  simple  nature,  which  may 
be  found  in  succeeding  pages  of 
this  book.  Window  boxes  are 
by  far  the  simplest  and  most 
popular,  but  are  adapted  mostly 
to  the  indoor  culture  of  bulbs 
We  have  noticed  frequently  the 
late  introduction  of  tile  boxes, 
rilling  the  entire  width  of  the 
window,  and  placed  just  inside 
the  panes  of  glass,  filled  with 
nothing  but  young  plants  of  the 
Arbor  Vitae.  Their  delicate, 
feathery  green  foliage  contrasts 
well  with  the  white  curtains 
just  behind,  and  the  whole  form 
one  of  the  easiest,  yet  most 
unique  styles  of  window  garden- 
ing. 


Fig.  13. 

The  Location  of  the  Window  Garden. 

A  good  location  or  exposure  is  desirable.  There  are  plants  which  love  the  shade. 
Pansies,  Sweet  Violets,  and  some  of  the  variegated  plants,  will  grow  and  bloom  if 
not  placed  directly  in  the  sun's  ray  ;  but  Roses,  Geraniums,  Heliotropes,  Verbe- 
nas, Daphnes,  Azaleas,  &c.,  must  be  near  the  glass,  and  under  the  direct  influence 
of  the  light,  if  we  would  have  them  flourish.  An  exposure  where  the  sun  can 
strike  unobstructed  from  its  first  appearance  above  the  horizon  in  the  morning, 
until  one  or  two  o'clock,  p.  M.,  is  much  the  most  desirable.  A  southern  or  south- 
eastern window  is  the  best,  next  is  an  eastern  exposure,  then  a  western  one, 
and  the  north  worst  of  all.  At  a  northern  one,  little  but  Pansies  and  Sweet 
Violets  will  grow,  though  Camellias  delight  in  a  cool,  inoist  atmosphere,  and 
will  often  flourish  at  such  a  window  with  but  little  sunshine.  The  plants  must 
have  all  the  sunshine  you  can  bestow  upon  them,  but  at  night  they  should  be 
kept  in  the  dark;  and  as  all  plants  in  summer  are  cooler  at  night  than  in  the 
day  time,  those  that  are  grown  in  windows  should  also  be  cooler.  This  point  is 
perhaps  not  as  well  understood  as  it  should  be,  for  there  are  persons  so  fearful 


WINDOW    GARDENING. 


21 


Fig.  14.— A  Sitting  Room  Window. 


22  WINDOW    GARDENING. 

that  their  plant ;  will  become  chilled,  that  they  turn  all  the  heat  of  their  fur- 
naces upon  them  at  night,  and  the  gas-light  joined  with  it,  increases  the  irrita- 
tion ;  so  that  the  plants  are  kept  in  an  unnatural  state  when  they  ought  to  be 
at  rest,  for  plants  need  sleep  and  do  sleep  ;  so  the  effect  of  unreasonable  light 
and  heat  is  very  exhausting.  Drop  the  curtains  over  the  plants  to  exclude  them 
from  the  light  of  the  room,  or  pin  newspapers  around  them  during  the  evening. 
Nothing  is  so  handy  and  useful  in  protecting  them  from  frost  as  newspapers. 
They  will  frequently  preserve  a  plant  when  the  mercury  falls  nearly  to  free 
zing  point.  Neither  should  plants  be  chilled.  Avoid  the  extreme  of  rendering 
them  too  cool,  but  maintain  a  good  medium  temperature.  Rooms  whose  ther 
mometer  reaches  80  to  85°  during  the  day,  and  then  falls  to  30  or  35°  at  night, 
will  never  keep  plants  in  good  health. 

Size  of    Windows. 

The  larger  the  better  if  you  want  to  grow  many  plants.  Bow  windows  are 
always  liked,  and  generally  considered  the  best,  as  they  afford  exposure  to  the 
sun  at  all  hours  of  the  day,  if  they  face  the  south.  The  larger  the  panes,  also 
the  better.  The  best  style  of  window,  not  bow,  is  to  have  a  good  sill,  say  not 
Aess  than  six  inches  wide  on  each  side  of  the  sash  ;  if  eight  or  ten  inches,  so  much 
the  better ;  this  affords  room  for  a  fine  sill  or  rustic  window  box,  which  may  be 
changed  at  intervals  from  the  inner  sill  to  the  outer  one  jutting  beyond  the 
edge  of  the  sash.  Boxes  for  this  style  of  window  should  be  six  inches  deep. 
Sometimes  double  boxes  may  be  desired,  one  on  each  side  of  the  window,  in 
which  case  the  outer  box  should  contain  low  growing  evergreens,  and  the 
interior  one  bulbs.  It  is  usual,  also,  to  cover  the  sills  with  paper  before  setting 
the  boxes  down.  Still  this  is  not  necessary  where  there  is  no  danger  from  leak- 
ing. If  the  window  is  low,  and  near  the  ground,  climbing  vines  may  be  trained 
upward  over  the  window ;  this  is  more  fully  described  under  head  of  balcony 
gardening. 

Our  windows  differ  so  much  in  size  that  every  one  must  shape  their  prepara- 
tions entirely  according  to  their  conveniences;  but  if  a  sill,  either  permanent 
or  temporary,  can  be  constructed  on  the  outside  of  the  window,  it  will  be  found  of 
convenient  and  constant  use 


CHAJPTER  III. 

GENERAL  MANAGEMENT  OF  WINDOW  GARDENS. 

In-door  plants  naturally  require  more  care  than  those  grown  in  the  open  air, 
for  nature  supplies  all  the  needs  of  the  latter ;  but  the  secrets  of  successful  growth 
and  profuse  blooming  in  the  house  are  enumerated  in  the  following  few  essential 
rules  of  management : 

1st.  Give  them  plenty  of  light  during  the  day,  and  darkness  with  a  cooler 
temperature  at  night. 

2d.  A  good  supply  of  fresh  air,  when  the  sun  shines  brightest  and  warmest; 
in  mild  days  the  upper  sashes  may  be  lowered  a  little,  and  the  cool  air  will  blow 
over  the  plants  instead  of  directly  upon  them. 

3d.  Perfect  cleanliness,  which  is  very  important,  for  if  the  plants  are  covered 
with  dust,  they  cannot  grow,  and  will  frequently  die;  their  leaves  are  their 
lungs;  frequent  syringing  will  keep  the  leaves  moist  and  clean.- 

4th.  A  proper  amount  of  moisture  ;  a  dry  atmosphere  is  fatal. 

5th.  A  good  compost  or  soil,  in  which  their  roots  can  luxuriate  and  send  forth 
vigorous  branches,  leaves  and  flowers. 

6th.  Get  good  healthy  plants  to  start  out  with ;  plants  that  have  been  bloom- 
ing all  through  the  summer,  or  for  several  months  previous  will  not  do  well  ; 
new  ones  are  best,  or  plants  that  were  used  the  previous  winter,  and  have  rested 
during  the  summer,  will  also  answer,  but  in  general  it  is  best  to  get  new  plants. 

7th.  Keep  only  a  few  plants ;  too  many  in  the  window  will  make  close  crowd- 
ing ;  pots  should  never  be  set  two  or  three  deep  on  top  of  each  other. 

8th.  A  uniform  temperature  of  60°  to  70°  in  the  day  time  and  40°  to  45°  in  the 
night,  should  be  steadily  mantained. 

9th.  Different  places  should  be  provided  for  different  plants.  A  sunny  win- 
dow with  a  temperature  of  45°  to  50,°  will  suit  roses,  geraniums,  &c.,  best ;  Bego- 
nias, Coleus,  Cissus  discolor,  want  a  still  warmer  place  of  60°  to  70°,  and  yet  but 
little  or  no  sun  light  directly  upon  them.  On  the  other  hand,  Heliotropes,  and 
Bouvardias  want  all  the  sun  possible,  with  a  temperature  in  the  daytime 
of  60°  to  75°. 

Sunlight. 

Plenty  of  sunlight  is  the  gardener's  first  requisite.  If  the  location  for  this  pur- 
pose is  not  right,  the  plants  will  not  be  healthy.  If  the  plants  are  well  placed  in 
a  good  light,  then  the  pots  must  be  turned  occasionally  so  that  all  sides  may 
receive  it  equally.  It  will  be  well  also  to  put  flower  stands  or  racks  of  pots  on 


24  WINDOW   GARDENING. 

•wheels,  so  that  t*ie  whole  maybe  changed  at  once,  or  wheeled  away,  if  the  room 
needs  cleaning.  Care  must  be  taken  to  avoid  rapid  transition  from  darkness  to 
the  light,  for  sudden  and  violent  changes  are  as  trying  to  plant  life  as  human  life 
Too  much  warmth  will  destroy  tender  leaves  nearly  as  soon  as  too  much  cold. 
Then  again,  plants  should  be  placed  as  near  the  light  as  possible ;  in  rooms  far 
away  from  the  glass  window,  the  plants  will  be  weak,  pale  and  of  spindling 
growth.  If  they  could  receive  light  directly  from  overhead,  they  would  be  bet- 
ter than  from  the  side.  The  ordinary  variations  of  day  and  night  have  their 
corresponding  effects  on  plants,  since  it  is  said  that  they  inhale  under  the  iuflu- 
ences  of  light,  and  respire  in  the  dark.  The  glass  of  the  window  should  also 
be  rubbed  or  washed  clean.  The  most  gaily  colored  flowers  will  be  produced  at 
a  south  window,  but  a  north  window  has  its  advantage,  in  that  it  may  be  used 
for  plants  already  in  bloom,  and  will  keep  them  much  longer  in  perfection.  For 
north  windows,  Camelias,  Cytisuses,  Primulas  and  Alpine  Auriculas,  will  find  the 
cool  moisture  they  need,  and  will  bloom  in  great  beauty  if  properly  attended  to 
and  kept  from  frost.  Bulbs,  if  placed  in  the  sunlight,  will  have  their  brilliancy 
of  color  greatly  enhanced,  yet  if  not  changed  occasionally  in  position,  their 
flower  stems  will  bend  over  and  have  an  unsightly  appearance. 

Temperature. 

The  greatest  success  will  be  found  to  come  from  a  uniform  temperature  of  45 
or  50°  at  night,  and  60  to  75°  in  the  day  time ;  80°  is  too  hot  except  for  only  some 
plants  of  semi-tropical  character.  Under  no  circumstances  should  the  tempera- 
ture go  below  35°.  If  your  living  rooms,  where  your  plants  are  placed  must  be 
considerably  warmer  than  this  in  the  former  part  of  the  night,  then  set  the  plants 
on  the  floor,  shade  from  the  light  until  the  time  of  retiring,  and  then  return  them 
to  the  window  sill  or  flower  stand.  Perhaps  from  no  other  cause  than  this,  too 
great  heat,  during  the  day  and  long  continued  at  night,  our  city  grown  plants 
grow  so  sickly  and  lanky  in  appearance.  Once  or  twice  a  week  will  be  suffi- 
cient for  turning  pots  around.  If  this  little  item  is  not  attended  to,  you  cannot 
grow  finely  formed  plants,  and  more  than  half  their  beauty  depends  upon  their 
shape.  If  a  closet  or  small  room  opening  out  of  the  sitting  room  can  be  devoted 
to  plants  and  yet  be  well  lighted,  they  will  flourish  far  better  than  in  the  com- 
mon room,  for  they  can  have  a  cooler  atmosphere  and  less  dust. 

The  same  object  could  however  be  accomplished  in  a  far  more  tasteful  manner 
by  enclosing  the  window  recess  with  another  glass  window  or  partition.  The 
outside  glass  protects  the  plants  from  the  cold,  the  inside  ones  from  undue  heat 
and  gas,  while  between  the  two  there  is  a  happy  mean  in  which  plant  culture  can- 
not fail  to  be  successful.  If  however  this  is  not  done,  and  the  window  panes  are 
made  of  double  glass  there  will  be  little  danger  of  their  freezing  on  a  cold  night. 
It  would  be  well  to  have  one  pane  fitted  with  a  hinge,  which  can  be  opened  to  air 
•the  plants.  But  to  avoid  this  a  heavy  curtain  can  be  placed  at  the  window,  and 
pulled  down  at  night,  to  protect  from  cold  air,  while  newspapers  may  be  pinned 
around  the  plants  to  protect  them  from  the  bright  light  of  the  evening.  The 


WINDOW  GARDENING  <25 

amateur  must  also  study  the  characteristics  of  his  plants,  for  one  temperature 
will  not  answer  for  all.  The  Rose  needs  a  cool  atmosphere,  yet  moderately  rnoist. 
The  Fuschia  is  fond  of  both  warmth  and  moisture,  but  needs  occasional  shading 
when  the  sun  is  too  hot.  The  Coleus  prefers  plenty  of  heat  and  moisture,  and 
would  be  satisfied  never  to  have  the  thermometer  go  below  70°  by  night  or  day. 
The  Geranium  seems  to  accommodate  itself  to  all  circumstances,  being  the  most 
easily  grown  of  all  window  plants,  and  apparently  needs  only  plenty  of  light  and 
air,  and  average  warmth. 

Plants  at  night. 

Plants  need  rest.  Uniform  darkness  at  night  with  lower  temperature,  is  one 
of  the  conditions  of  treatment,  but  sometimes  there  may  be  a  sudden  change 
of  temperature  in  the  outer  air,  and  in  consequence  thereof  some  one  or  more 
plants  of  the  window  garden  may  be  frozen.  Do  not  throw  them  away,  but 
cut  the  branches  back  as  far  as  frozen,  or  near  to  the  soil,  then  water  slightly 
and  do  not  let  the  plant  get  quite  as  warm  as  before ;  if  it  has  any  life  it  will  soon 
show  buds  and  branches.  Plants  should  be  treated  very  much  like  human 
beings;  a  frosted  finger  should  be  warmed  gradually,  so  should  a  frozen  plant. 
Some  plants  if  frosted,  like  Fuschias,  will  sprout  from  the  roots  and  make  a 
strong  growth  ;  others  will  send  out  strong,  healthy  flowering  branches  from  the 
stem  near  the  roots.  A  very  simple  plan  to  restore  frosted  plants  is  to  transfer 
them  at  once  to  a  dark  cellar  and  shower  them  plentifully  with  water;  keep 
them  here  two  or  three  weeks  and  they  will  gradually  recover  their  health  again. 

Another  point  is  often  discussed,  whether  plants  are  injurious  inrooms  at  night. 
We  think  it  unwise  to  have  too  many  in  a  room ;  a  few  here  and  there  are  of  little 
influence.  Strong  scented  plants  are  injurious  to  have  in  the  room  at  night.  The 
Tuberose,  Hyacinth  and  Jessamine,  &c.,  are  too  sweet  to  be  allowed  to  remain  in 
a  bedroom  at  night,  and  should  not  be  patronized  for  this  purpose  by  invalids. 
The  sensations  of  the  individual  are  often  a  good  guide.  After  sleeping  in  a,  room 
with  plants,  the'morning  finds  the  sleeper  inactive,  feeling  as  if  his  night's  rest 
had  Jaeen  heavy,  the  air  of  the  room  also  does  not  seem  pure,  and  the  perfume 
peculiar.  All  the  indications  are  sufficient  to  show  the  air  is  vitiated,  and  fresh 
air  is  needed  as  much  by  the  individual  as  the  plant. 

Fresh  Air. 

Ventilation  is  absolutely  necessary ;  therefore  give  it.  Whenever  the  weather  is 
mild  open  the  window.  Too  little  fresh  air  and  too  much  warmth  are  formidable 
obstacles  to  success  in  house  gardening.  Plants  that  are  kept  shut  up  in  warm 
rooms  become  very  sensitive  and  are  far  more  liable  to  suffer  from  a  sudden  fall 
in  the  temperature ;  but  if  they  are  frequently  exposed  to  the  fresh  air  they  ar<» 
better  able  to  bear  these  changes  ol  climate  which  often  occur  &o  unexpectedly . 
Those  who  live  in  close  heated  rooms  can  never  make  their  flowers  bloom  in 
winter  with  any  vigor.  Some  think  that  any  atmosphere  not  inconvenient  to 
men  and  women  is  good  enough  for  the  plant.  It  will  live  just  as  the  human 
being  lives,  but  it  does  so  in  sufferance  rather,  for  it  will  not  grow  and  bloom 


26  WINDOW  GARDENING. 

in  perfect  beauty.  A  very  few  handsome  flowering  vines  are  much  to  he  prefer- 
red to  spindling  plants ,  pictures  of  misery,  like  their  owners,  overheated  and 
crowded  into  close  unhealthy  unventilated  quarters.  In  our  fever  to  provide  suffi- 
cient warmth  in  our  rooms  against  the  cold,  we  stop  up  every  crack  in  our  win- 
dows, every  crevice  of  our  doors;  then  with  furnaces,  grates  or  stoves  at  almost 
fever  heat  we  get  warmth  enough  to  bid  defiance  to  the  chilling  atmosphere. 
Rarely  are  we  satisfied  with  a  temperature  in  the  room  of  less  than  75°,  and  this 
must  be  constantly  maintained  from  early  morning  till  late  at  night.  A  draught 
of  fresh  air  would  quicken  your  blood  and  put  a  little  more  spirit  into  your  coun- 
tenances; still  you  aim  to  avoid  it.  Yet  for  the  sake  of  your  plants  do  it  at  least 
once  a  day.  Throw  open  the  doors  and  air  the  room  thoroughly.  This  can  be 
done  at  time  for  meals  when  it  is  usually  vacant.  The  windows  should  not  bo 
opened  directly  upon  the  plants.  Some  other  window  or  door  away  from  the 
plants  may  be  opened.  It  should  be  done  also  at  the  middle  of  the  day  when 
the  outer  air  is  mildest. 

Cleanliness. 

Here  close  attention  is  again  required.  Plants  require  regular  care.  They 
cannot  be  watered  and  cared  for  once  a  week  and  the  rest  of  the  time  left  to  them- 
selves, but  they  demand  a  daily  amount  of  time  to  be  spent  upon  them.  Every 
morning  when  house  cleaning  is  in  order,  the  plants  must  be  watered  and  cleaned. 
You  will  see  how  necessary  this  is,  if  you  look  at  the  nature  of  the  plants,  how 
they  live.  Like  our  skins,  the  leaves  of  plants  are  perforated  with  hundreds  of 
minute  pores  through  which  they  breathe,  exhaling  oxygen  and  inhaling  carbon, 
and  also  giving  out  and  inhaling  moisture.  If  these  pores  are  filled  up  with  dust 
the  plant  cannot  perform  these  functions  and  its  life  either  ceases  or  stands  still ; 
it  is  not  possible  for  it  to  grow  or  bloom.  The  dust  of  our  living  rooms  is  very 
injurious  to  the  health  of  every  plant.  Unless  it  is  removed,  you  may  as  well  give 
up  all  hope  of  making  your  window  favorites  succeed.  Frequent  washing  and 
watering  are  absolutely  essential.  For  close  handling  of  leaves,  a  soft  sponge  is  of 
great  service,  for  it  can  be  used  in  the  parlor  without  danger  of  dripping  from  the 
watering-pot.  Wash  each  leaf  separately  and  see  that  both  sides  of  it  are  clean. 
To  shower  a  plant  turn  it  sideways  over  a  tub  of  water  or  a  sink ;  sprinkle  it 
thoroughly  with  the  watering-pot.  If  the  plants  are  too  large  to  handle  in  this 
manner  set  the  pots  or  tubs  into  a  larger  one  and  either  sprinkle  or  syringe  every 
branch  and  leaf.  You  must  improvise  summer  showers  if  you  would  induce  summer 
growth.  It  is  not  enough  to  water  the  earth  in  the  pot.  The  whole  plant  requires  it. 
Frequent  waterings  are  the  most  beneficial  culture  that  you  can  bestow  upon  your 
plants.  To  be  sure  they  are  not  easily  given  and  will  entail  upon  you  some  work. 

When  sweeping  and  dusting  your  rooms,  throw  newspapers  or  a  light  cloth 
over  them ;  this  will  prevent  the  dust  from  settling  upon  the  leaves,  and  help 
materially  toward  keeping  them  clean. 

Whenever  a  warm  ram  falls,  and  the  temperature  stands  at  50°  or  55,°  set 
all  the  plants  out  of  doors,  and  they  will  be  greatly  refreshed  and  strengthened. 
It  does  not  follow,  however,  that  the  whole  plant  is  watered  by  being  thus  placed 


WINDOW  GARDENING.  27 

out  doors ;  the  leaves  of  the  plant  may  be  broad  and  shield  the  pot  and  roots ; 
so  do  not  forget  to  give  these  a  chance  also.  If  the  leaves  of  plants  are  very 
dirty,  warm  water  with  a  little  soap  and  the  use  of  the  sponge  or  syringe,  will 
remove  all  dirt.  Exposure  to  the  fresh  air  is  not  as  dangerous  as  many  would  sup- 
pose, provided  the  temperature  is  mild.  They  are,  in  fact,  benefited  by  such 
exposure  and  become  far  more  hardy  and  able  to  resist  sudden  changes  of  tem- 
perature, much  better  than  if  kept  constantly  confined  to  the  room. 

Very  few  have  any  idea  of  how  fast  the  dust  accumulates  in  a  room  ;  it  is  in 
fact  one  of  the  greatest  enemies  the  housewife  has  to  contend  with.  A  short 
time  only,  suffices  to  see  the  leaves  of  a  plant  covered  with  dust;  if  it  is  not  re- 
moved, they  soon  get  brown  and  wither ;  and  it  is  really  delightful,  after  giv- 
ing them  a  good  washing,  to  see  how  bright  and  shining  are  the  leaves  and  how 
greatly  they  have  been  invigorated. 

Watering  Plants. 

When  sJiall  I  water  my  plants  ?  is  a  vexed  question,  asked  perhaps  more 
frequently  than  any  other  by  the  beginner.  This  depends  entirely  upon  the 
nature  of  the  plant,  for  some  need  more  water  than  others,  and  yet  a  soil  thor- 
oughly wet  is  totally  unfit  for  plant-growing.  The  real  idea  each  cultivator 
should  aim  for  is  to  supply  the  plants  with  water,  which  may  drain  rapidly 
through  the  pots,  yet  sufficient  be  retained  to  give  a  good  moist  soil  for 
the  plant  to  live  in.  If  the  water  passes  away  rapidly  it  will  need  replacing 
frequently.  It  is  generally  a  sign  of  health  when  the  soil  is  well  drained  and  the 
plant  uses  up  the  supply  of  water  quickly. 

Watering  should  be  supplied  with  a  careful  hand,  for  many  parlor  gardeners 
have  an  unrestrainable  belief  in  the  hydropathic  process.  To  them  there  is 
only  one  orthodox  rule  :  if  the  plants  will  wither  up  or  are  troubled  with  insects 
and  do  not  grow  as  healthy  and  freely  as  they  might,  they  drench  it  with  a  flood 
of  cold  water;  so  it  is  a  fact,  that  more  plants  perish  in  the  hands  of  the  inex- 
perienced, from  having  too  copious  a  supply  than  too  little.  There  are  others 
again  more  cautious  in  their  applications  of  water,  who  are,  on  the  other  hand, 
totally  heedless  of  drainage,  and  let  the  water  stand  in  the  saucers  under  the  pots, 
or  in  boxes  without  drainage,  causing  mould  and  sogginess  of  soil,  rendering  the 
roots  weak  and  unhealthy. 

The  purposes  of  watering  should  be  better  understood.  1st.  "Water  supplies 
to  the  roots  fertilizing  matter,  contained  in  itself,  and  2d.  It  converts  the  nour- 
ishment of  the  soil  into  a  liquid  form  more  readily  fit  for  absorption  by  the 
roots.  The  roots  can  obtain  it  only  when  the  soil  is  dampened. 

Never  give  water  when  the  soil  is  moist  to  the  touch,  but  wait  until  it  is  dry. 

Few  plants  thrive  if  water  is  around  them  constantly;  yet  Lobelias,  Callas, 
Ivies,  etc.,  are  very  thirsty  and  like  to  drink  at  their  own  will.  Indeed  they 
will  not  bloom  or  grow  well  unless  you  allow  them  so  to  do. 

The  healthiest  plants  require  water  the  most  frequently;  and  yet  it  may 
appear  a  contradiction  to  say  that  the  plants  which  contain  the  most  waters 


28  WINDOW   GARDENING 

tissues,  grow  in  the  dryest  places.  The  Cacti  often  supply  moisture  to  the  wild 
cattle  of  the  plains  of  Mexico  ;  the  animals  break  through  their  thorny  exteriors 
with  their  hoofs,  and  then  eat  the  moist  morsels  contained  within,  which  quench 
their  thirst. 

Water,  cold  from  the  well  or  pump,  is  not  suitable  for  plants,  unless  of  a  tern 
nerature  of  GO0.     Rain  water  is  best,  for  this  is  supposed  to  contain  some  little 
immonia  from  the  sky. 

The  best  rule  in  all  cases  is  to  use  water  warm  to  the  hands.  Some  florists 
»dvise  water  no  colder  than  the  atmosphere.  We  believe  it  generally  best  to  use 
it  warmer.  In  cool  mornings  it  should  be  lukewarm,  say  not  under  55°.  Some 
cultivators  say  they  have  used  hot  water  for  sickly  plants  heated  to  a  tempera- 
ture from  200°  to  250°,  and  have  believed  this  to  be  the  cause  of  their  subse- 
quent luxuriant  growth  and  production  of  flowers  of  the  greatest  beauty ;  but 
trials  like  this  are  not  to  be  encouraged,  and  warm  water  of  75°  to  150°,  will  do 
just  as  well  and  have  far  less  danger  from  scalding.  Over  150°  is  neither  neces- 
sary nor  safe.  A  lady  is  said  to  have  once  watered  her  plants  with  the  tea  that  re- 
mained in  her  pot  after  the  breakfast  was  finished.  Her  plants  grew  in  wonder- 
ful beauty  and  luxuriance,  and  she  attributes  it  to  the  magic  effects  of  the  tea; 
yet  she  has  forgotten  it  was  better  due  to  the  warmth  of  the  water  than  any  fan- 
cied virtue.  Some  plants  demand  more  water  than  others.  Fuchsias,  for  instance, 
while  in  bloom  often  require  water  both  morning  and  evening,  and  nearly  all  plants 
desire  more  when  in  flower  than  at  any  other  time.  The  supply  of  water  must  be 
regulated  according  to  the  demand  of  the  plants.  Calla  Lilies  will  absorb  water 
two  or  three  times  as  quickly  as  any  other  plant  of  the  Window  Garden.  If 
rainwater  cannot  be  easily  obtained  and  hard  water  is  the  only  source  at  hand, 
add  a  little  soda  to  it  and  let  it  stand  for  a  while;  use  a  small  piece,  say  a  small 
nugget  of  the  size  of  a  pea,  to  every  gallon  ;  on  that  pour  about  a  pint  of  boiling 
water  and  then  fill  it  up  with  cold  water.  It  will  be  quite  warm,  and  a  thorough 
drenching  overhead  and  in  the  pots  will  vastly  improve  their  color  and  health.  A 
drop  or  two  of  hartshorn  will  also  correct  hard  water  somewhat.  In  watering,  never 
wet  merely  the  surface,  but  moisten  the  whole  ball  of  earth  in  the  pot.  If  the 
ball  should  yet  be  very  dry  set  the  whole  pot  in  a  pail  of  warm  water  till  it  is 
soaked  through.  The  morning  is  the  best  time  of  the  day  for  watering.  A  com- 
mon hand-brush  made  of  broomcorn  dipped  into  warm  water  and  shaken  over  the 
plants  will  imitate  a  summer  shower,  but  its  tiny  drops  may  spatter  against 

the  window  glass.  A  toy  watering-pot, 
such  as  is  used  for  children,  is  very  use- 
ful for  Window  Gardening.  If  oil  cloth 
is  laid  under  the  stand  it  can  be  used 
without  much  if  any  injury  to  the  car- 
pet or  furniture.  Care  should  be  taken 
that  the  pots  have  good  drainage,  for 
'then  all  surplus  water  will  run  into  the 

Fig.  15. 


GARDENING.  29 

saucer,  which  may  be  emptied  as  fast  as  filled.  In  warm  mild  weather  when  plants 
absorb  a  great  deal  of  moisture  it  will  do  no  harm  to  leave  a  little  in  the  saucer. 
Among  other  details  to  be  observed  in  watering,  the  following  items  of  caution 
are  to  be  observed :  Some  plants  should  never  be  wetted  on  the  leaves.  Take  the 
Begonia  Rex,  whose  foliage,  so  large  and  grand,  has  an  exquisite  coloring;  if  its 
leaves  were  to  be  sponged  with  cold  water,  and  the  plant  left  out  on  the  balcony 
or  open  air,  it  would  probably  die  very  soon ;  but  a  Camelia  can  be  treated  the 
same  way  and  not  be  injured  in  the  slightest.  The  reasons  for  it  are  good.  The 
last  plant  has  a  hard  shiny  leaf,  which  can  resist  rough  treatment ;  but  the  other  has 
a  succulent  tender  leaf  easily  affected.  The  novice  then  may  generally  find  it 
true  that  plants  with  soft  porous  and  hairy  leaves  should  be  very  cautiously  wet- 
ted overhead,  but  plants  with  hard  varnished  leaves  may  be  watered  frequently. 
Tepid  water  should  be  invariably  used  even  down  to  the  height  of  summer.  If 
plants  get  infested  with  vermin,  a  sponging  with  soap  and  water  made  into  a  lather, 
will  clear  them.  Then  follow  with  clear  water  to  remove  the  soap.  It  is  also  a 
good  rule  to  observe  that  the  colder  the  weather  the  less  water  must  be  given ; 
and  when  plants  are  at  rest,  done  growing,  they  need  very  little  indeed 

Plants  in  cases  may  be  watered  once  a  week,  for  evaporation  there  is  confined, 
but  in  open  rooms  once  a  day  is  sufficient.  Some  plants,  who  delight  in  very 
moist  situations,  need  it  twice  a  day.  Never  water  when  the  sun  is  hot. 

If  the  soil  of  the  pot  gets  too  hard,  loosen  it  a  little  with  a  fork,  or  plunge  it 
into  a  tub  of  water.  Take  pains  to  have  good  drainage,  and  beyond  this  little 
trouble  will  be  experienced. 

The  Philosophy  of   Watering 

is  worth  studying.  Plants  are  constantly  throwing  off  or  evaporating  moisture 
from  their  leaves,  and  at  the  same  time  the  roots  must  be  taking  up  an  equal  sup- 
ply. If  then  on  examining  the  soil  in  a  flower-pot,  you  discover  that  it  is  moist 
for  an  unusually  long  time,  you  may  be  sure  that  something  is  Wrong,  either  the 
roots  do  not  take  it  up  readily,  or  drainage  is  imperfect.  Healthy  plant  action 
needs  -ir  as  well  as  moisture.  A  soggy  soil  excludes  air,  and,  as  a  result,  our 
plants  soon  show  drooping  leaves  and  unhealthy  branches.  Drainage  is  to  plants 
what  digestion  is  to  the  human  system,  keeping  everything  in  perfect  action. 
Water  and  air  enjoy  a  healthy  circulation  unimpeded,  and  plants  which  are 
growing  freely  and  vigorously,  with  strong  roots,  will  take  up  the  moisture  of 
the  pots  regularly.  Mr.  Meehan,  who  has  studied  plant  physiology  more  thor- 
oughly than  any  other  American,  sums  up  this  subject  in  the  following  concise 
paragraph : 

"  A  wet  soil  is  totally  unfit  for  plant  growing.  A  plant  standing  24  hours  in 
water  is  irreparably  injured.  A  Hyacinth,  to  be  sure,  will  live  one  season  in 
water;  but  all  the  matter  of  the  flower  which  goes  to  water  is  prepared  the  year 
before,  and  after  flowering,  the  bulb  is  exhausted  and  almost  worthless. 

"A  good  soil  for  plant  growing,  therefore,  is  not  one  which  will  hold  water, 
but  one  in  which  water  will  pass  away. 


30  WINDOW    GARDENING. 

% 

"  The  soil  itself  is  composed  of  minute  particles,  through  which  air  spaces 
abound.  The  water  must  be  just  enough  to  keep  these  particles  moist,  and  the 
air  in  the  spaces  is  thus  kept  in  the  condition  of  moist  air.  The  roots  traverse 
these  air  spaces,  and  it  is,  therefore,  moist  air  which  roots  want,  and  not  water. 

"If  it  were  water  simply  which  plants  wanted,  we  should  cork  up  the  bottom 
of  the  hole  in  the  flower  pot,  and  prevent  the  water  getting  away.  Instead  of 
this,  we  try  to  hasten  the  passing  of  the  water  through  as  much  as  possible,  by 
not  only  keeping  the  hole  clear,  but  often  by  putting  broken  pieces  in  the  bottom 
to  hasten  the  drainage.  A  plant  will  generally  be  the  healthiest,  therefore,  which 
wants  water  the  oftenest.  If  it  does  not  want  water,  it  is  in  a  bad  way.  And 
more  water  will  make  the  matter  worse. 

"  How  often  to  water  them,  will  be  according  to  how  easy  the  water  passes 
away.  If,  when  you  pour  water  on  earth  it  disappears  almost  instantly,  it  would 
be  safe  to  water  such  plants  every  day. 

"The  constant  aim  of  the  cultivator  should  be  to  keep  the  soil  of  such  a  con- 
sistence that  a  moist  atmosphere  shall  always  be  present  in  the  air  spaces  exist- 
ing through  it. 

Moisture  of  the  Atmosphere. 

The  atmosphere  of  our  houses,  as  we  have  intimated  before,  is  not  only  too 
dry  for  successful  plant  culture,  but  it  breeds  insects  of  various  kinds  which 
will  injure  their  growth. 

We  have  noticed  that  plants  kept  in  kitchen  windows  where  the  air  is 
charged  with  moist  vapors  from  the  boiling  of  water  over  the  stove  or  range,  and 
where  the  outside  doors  are  frequently  opened,  and  fresh  air  supplied,  will 
often  develop  into  surprising  luxuriance  and  beauty.  We  can  call  to  mind 
even  now  a  farm  kitchen  in  the  coldest  portion  of  our  most  northern  states, 
where  Roses,  Carnations  and  Verbenas,  grow  finely,  and  are  covered  with  a  sum- 
mery profusion  of  buds  and  flowers.  These  are  usually  the  most  difficult  plants 
to  bring  into  bloom  in  parlor  windows,  because  they  are  apt  to  be  so  infested 
with  minute  red  spiders,  and  the  preen  aphis,  scale  or  mealy  bug. 

It  is  the  moisture  in  the  air  which  tends  to  restrain  and  drive  away  such  dis- 
agreeable intruders.  The  heated  air  of  the  house  can  be  kept  moist  by  placing  an 
evaporating  pan  upon  or  in  our  iuraaccs,  and  over  our  stoves  we  can  place  a 
large  fire-proof  dish  that  must  be  iaily  filled  with  water. 

If  the  surfaces  of  the  soil  in  pots  is  covered  with  moss,  it  retards  the  evapo- 
ration of  water;  this  practice  is  generally  advisable  only  for  those  plants  which 
require  much  water,  such  as  Calla  Lilies,  Fuchsias,  Camellias,  &c.  Pots  that  are 
imbedded  in  moss  are  always  kept  moist,  and  if  a  table  is  constructed  just  the 
height  of  the  window,  with  a  rim  fastened  around  each  side  three  inches  in 
depth,  and  the  whole  lined  with  zinc,  the  pots  can  be  set  in  it,  and  the  moss 
stuffed  in  on  all  sides.  When  watering  is  needed,  set  it  back  from  the  window 
and  sprinkle  with  a  fine  watering  pot. 

The  Soil. 
The  most  easily  available  material  for  a  compost  by  the  ordinary  gardener,  will 


WINDOW  GARDENING.  3J 

be  rich  loam,  sand,  and  thoroughly  decayed  cow  manure.  This  should  be  mixed 
in  the  proportion  of  one  half  of  the  loam  to  one  quarter  each  of  the  sand  and  ma- 
nure. Leaf  mould  is  also  another  grand  material  which  every  plant  loves  to  grow 
in,  and  it  will  pay  to  secure  a  good  quantity  of  it.  The  older  and  more  decorn 
posed  the  manure  and  leaf  mould,  the  better  they  are,  and  every  plant  grower 
should  keep  a  well  prepared  compost  heap  for  his  plants.  A  good  compost, 
when  all  the  material  is  handy,  is  composed  of  one  fourth  of  the  above  elements 
of  leaf  mould,  sand,  loam  and  manure.  To  those  who  live  in  cities  and  can  not 
get  this  conveniently,  it  is  best  either  to  buy  your  plants  already  potted,  or  go 
to  a  good  florist  and  buy  a  good  quantity  of  right  compost;  he  can  usually  supply 
it  at  cheaper  rate  than  it  can  be  purchased  anywhere  else. 

Keep  this  heap  well  filled,  and  no  one  must  fail  to  bear  in  mind  that  the  soil  of 
every  one  of  his  pots  needs  changing  and  replenishing,  or  else  it  becomes  ex- 
hausted, and  the  plants  dwindle  and  languish  for  needed  food. 

Garden  loam  is  often  used  by  those  in  the  country  and  found  to  answer^ 
but  if  it  should  contain  any  clay,  a  little  sand  must  be  added.  The  sand  itself 
is  oi  no  fertilizing  effect,  but  is  valuable  in  assisting  the  aeration  of  the  soil 
and  helping  the  drainage.  Well  rotten  turf  is  another  handy  and  valuable  mate 
rial,  containing  considerable  quantity  of  vegetable  mould.  If  used,  put  the 
coarser  pieces  at  the  bottom  along  with  some  pebbles  or  broken  pieces  of  crockery, 
then  fill  in  the  finer  mould  to  about  half  an  inch  from  the  surface.  The  soil  must 
not  be  allowed  to  cake  up,  but  be  occasionally  stirred  up  deep,  so  that  air  may 
have  access  to  the  roots. 

Leaf  mould  is  more  highly  prized  by  gardeners  than  anything  else  that  can 
be  procured.  Every  autumn  the  leaves  are  gathered  in  heaps,  wheeled  by  the 
barrow  load  to  a  good  location,  and  there  left  exposed  to  the  rain  and  the  action 
of  the  weather  for  sometimes  two  or  three  years.  Here  it  decomposes  and 
becomes  rotten.  Then  it  is  mixed  with  good  turf  mould,  also  left  to  rot  for  a 
year  or  two,  and  finally  chopped  up;  then  add  the  sand,  decomposed  manure  and 
some  peat  well  minced  to  small  pieces.  This  is  considered  the  very  best  mate- 
rial for  pots,  or  borders  in  green-houses  or  conservatories.  A  good  pile  of  it  is 
always  maintained.  It  is  rather  an  advantage  than  otherwise  to  have  a  few 
lumps  in  each  pot ;  they  prevent  the  soil  from  becoming  too  solid. 

A  compost  for  Camellias,  Roses,  Geraniums,  c£c.,  should  be  one  part  river 
sand,  one  part  leaf  mould,  two  parts  turf  or  garden  mould.  For  Cacti,  use 
two  parts  coarse  sand,  three  parts  leaf  and  turf  mould,  one  part  peat,  and  a  lit- 
tle broken  plaster. 

For  Azaleas,  Ericas,  and  most  New  Holland  plants,  take  four  parts  peat, 
two  parts  sand,  one  part  garden  or  turf  mould,  one  part  leaf  mould. 

Soil  for  bulbous  roots  should  be  light ;  place  them  in  the  centre  of  the  pots, 
about  half  imbedded  in  the  light  earth,  then  cover  them  with  leaf  or  fine  turf 
mould. 

For  drainage  purposes,  put  in  the  bottom  of  each  pot  either  a  layer  of  pow- 
dered charcoal,  or  small  broken  pieces  of  brick  or  old  mortar  t3  the  depth  of  at 


32  WINDOW  GARDENING. 

least  an  inch  ;  over  this  there  may  be  a  slight  sprinkling  of  sand  ;  still  it  may  be 
omitted  if  it  has  previously  been  well  incorporated  in  the  compost.  In  general 
it  should  never  be  les*  than  one  fifth  the  whole  material  of  the  compost,  and  one 
fourth  will  be  best  in  most  cases. 

Forest  mould  scraped  up  under  the  branches  of  pine  or  other  forest  trees, 
or  the  soil  taken  from  under  the  soda  of  droppings  in  cow  pastures,  will  be  found 
useful  in  imparting  a  vigorous  growth  to  plants. 

Amateurs  sometimes  choose  earth  from  the  back  yards  of  their  city  residen- 
ces ;  this  is  rarely  ever  suitable,  and  often  its  effects  can  be  seen  in  the  half  dead 
and  weak  look  of  the  plants,  who  seem  £o  be  languishing  for  nourishment. 
This  soil  is  rarely  ever  fertilized,  and  usually  is  either  the  filling  in  from  tho 
street  or  cellar.  It  may  be  fit  to  grow  grass  upon,  but  not  to  put  in  the  pots  of 
house  plants. 

There  are  some  plants  which  require  an  imperative  admixture  of  peat  and 
ioam,  such  as  Ericas,  Azaleas  and  Daphne.  There  is  no  substance  which 
can  be  substituted  for  it,  and  produce  success.  Earth  for  pots  should 
rarely  ever  be  sifted,  put  it  in  just  as  it  is;  lumpy  and  crude,  so  much  the 
better. 

In  potting  your  plants  and  planting  them  out,  be  very  careful  to  press  the 
earth  very  tightly  and  closely  around  the  roots  and  stalks  of  the  plants  ;  half  the 
secret  of  successful  pot  culture  lies  in  potting  plants. 

Hard  wooded  plants  should  be  potted  rather  firmly,  and  soft  wooded  ones 
should  be  l&ft  rather  free  and  loose. 

In  repotting  plants,  take  the  plant  that  is  to  be  repotted,  turn  it  upside  down, 
with  your  left  hand  across  the  mouth  of  the  pot,  and  the  stem  of  the  plant  be 
tween  the  fingers,  give  the  pot  a  few  raps  on  a  pan  on  the  table,  lift  up  the 
pot  and  you  have  the  plant  and  the  ball  of  earth  in  your  hand. 

Examine  it  carefully,  and  if  any  worms  appear,  pick  them  out,  or  if  the 
earth  is  full  of  healthy  roots,  and  they  are  matted  around  the  sides  of  it,  the 
plant  requires  a  pot  one  size  larger  than  that  in  which  it  has  grown. 

Place  the  ball  of  earth  and  the  plant  directly  in  the  centre  of  the  new  pot, 
and  fill  it  up  all  around  with  fresh  soil,  pressing  it  firmly  down  either  with 
the  fingers  or  a  flat  stick;  cover  the  "  ball  "  with  fresh  earth  half  an  inch  in 
depth;  strike  the  bottom  of  the  pot  several  times  against  a  flat  substance,  and 
again  press  the  soil  tightly  around  the  roots.  Loose  planting  is  a  fruitful  source 
of  the  non-success  attending  the  gardening  of  amateur  florists.  Place  your 
plants  in  the  shade  for  t\\o  or  three  days  to  allow  their  roots  to  become  accus 
tomed  to  the  charge  of  quarters.  A  healthy,  abundantly  rooted  plant,  requires 
a  pot  one  size  larger,  but,  if  the  plant  you  turn  out  should  not  show  its  roots 
on  the  outside,  it  needs  no  change  of  quarters,  still  it  may  need  fresh  soil,  and  if 
the  earth  seems  poor  and  gritty  it  is  best  to  give  it.. 

If  in  examination  of  your  pots  you  should  find  some  plant  injured  by  in- 
judicious waterings,  its  roots  rotten,  and  soil  soddened,  then  cut  or  tear  away 
the  decayed  parts,  turn  out  the  wet  soil,  take  a  pot  of  the  smaller  size,  and 


WINDOW    GARDENING.  £$ 

with  4  iigniei  soil  give  it  another  chance  for  life,  watering  it  sparingly  until  tho 
foliage  shows  its  return  to  health  and  strength. 

Never  pot  a  plant  that  has  its  ball  of  earth  quite  dry,  for  you  cannot  give  it 
water  afterward.  All  the  water  you  pour  upon  it  will  run  down  the  fresh  soij 
at  the  sides  of  the  pot,  leaving  the  plant  to  perish  with  drought.  Sometimes 
in  potting  plants,  you  will  find  a  large  brown  root  coiled  up  in  the  pot  like  a 
snake.  Cut  it  off  close  to  the  mam  root  and  put  this  plant  in  a  pot  of  smaller 
size,  and  very  soon  fresh  and  more  nourishing  roots  will  take  its  place.  Such 
roots  are  often  found  in  pots  of  Geraniums.  This  piece  of  root  can  be  made  to 
grow  by  cutting  it  into  3  inch  lengths,  and  planting  them  in  pots  of  sandy  loam, 
leaving  a  quarter  of  an  inch  of  the  root  uncovered,  and  keeping  them  warm  and 
moist. 

In  placing  plants  in  pots  in  the  open  air,  either  sink  them  in  the  borders  or  on 
the  grass.  Be  sure  to  scatter  coal  or  wood  ashes  underneath  them,  to  prevent 
\vorms  from  entering  the  pots  and  the  soil  from  becoming  clogged. 

Fertilizers  for  Stimulating  House  Plants. 

All  plants  will  grow  much  liner  if  stimulants  are  given,  say  at  least  once  a  week. 

A  very  fine  liquid  fertilizer  can  be  made  out  of  horse  and  cow  manure.  Take 
an  old  bucket  for  the  purpose,  put  into  it  several  shovels  full  of  manure,  to 
which  add  one  pint  of  charcoal  dust,  this  neutralizes  its  odor,  add  to  it  plenty  of 
boiling  water,  let  it  cool,  and  apply  to  the  plant.  It  should  not  be  given  too 
strong,  but  about  the  color  of  weak  tea.  The  bucket  can  stay  filled  up  with 
water  for  six  weeks  or  two  months  as  it  is  needed,  then  throw  away  its  contents 
and  begin  again. 

Guano  water,  a  decoction  of  Peruvian  guano,  makes  a  good  stimulant.  It 
should  be  applied  once  a  week  to  the  roots,  taking  care  not  to  touch  the  leaves 
with  it.  To  one  gallon  of  hot  water,  add  one  large  tablespoonful  of  guano; 
stir  until  it  is  dissolved.  Hen  manure  may  be  substituted  and  used  in  about 
the  same  quantity. 

When  used  carefully,  either  are  excellent,  and  give  the  plants  a  bright, 
vigorous  green. 

Ammonia  water  stimulates  growth  very  satisfactorily.  Dissolve  4  ounce  of 
pulverized  ammonia  in  a  gallon  of  water,  and  it  will  prove  more  grateful  to  the 
plants  even  than  rain  water  which  also  con  tains  ammonia.  A  teaspoonful  of  aqua 
ammonia  added  to  a  gallon  of  warm  water  will  be  of  same  efficacy.  Flour  oj 
bone,  when  it  can  be  obtained  in  the  form  of  powder,  easily  soluble  in  water,  is 
still  more  suitable,  for  it  contains  other  elements  of  plant  nutrition.  Used  in 
moderate  quantities,  not  over  a  tablespoonful  to  a  gallon  of  warm  water,  it  will 
give  the  plants  a  healthy  impetus;  give  a  sufficient  quantity  to  wet  the  whole  ball 
of  earth  and  pour  off  the  surplus  water  that  runs  into  the  saucer.  A  special 
fertilizer  used  to  advantage  by  some,  is  composed  as  follows  :  take  of  sulphate 
of  ammonia  four  ounces,  nitrate  of  potash  two  ounces,  white  sugar  one  ounce, 
add  one  pint  of  hot  water;  when  dissolved,  cork  tightly  and  add  a  teaspoonful 


34  WINDOW  GARDENING. 

to  every  gallon  of  water  used  for  watering;  six  or  eight  drops  of  this  liquid  can 
be  poured  into  the  water  of  a  hyacinth  glass,  and  the  flowers  will  be  much  finer 
All  these  special  stimulants  must  be  used  with  caution,  be  well  diluted,  applied 
not  oftener  than  once  a  week  and  once  in  three  weeks  will  be  sufficient  for  the 
hyacinth. 

Pinching 

Plants  should  be  kept  in  good  shape  by  pinching  off  their  shoots  from  time  to 
time,  so  as  to  avoid  an  outward  spindling  appearance ,  straggling  branches  can 
never  be  handsome ;  but  if  their  shoots  are  nipped  or  pinched  in  every  month 
or  so,  they  will  grow  bushy  and  have  many  more  blossoms  and  leaves.  Fig  16 


Pig.  16. 

shows  a  good  pruning  scissors  Fuchsias  and  Pelargoniums  are  generally 
stopped  once  or  twice  before  they  flower.  When  the  shoots  have  grown  about 
three  leaves  their  ends  are  pinched  out;  this  gives  three  or  four  shoots  instead  of 
one,  and  increases  the  proportion  of  blossoms,  but  keeps  the  plant  dwarf  The 
training  of  piants  is  aiso  a  matter  of  taste,  usually  the  form  of  a  half  circle  is 
most  preferred.  Fuchsias  trained  to  single  stakes  and  allowed  to  droop  down 
are  natural  objects  of  beauty  Every  gardener  has  his  fancy.  Nothing  is  so  pleas- 
ing as  to  see  a  rose  trained  to  stakes  in  pots  bent  completely  back  to  the  pot,  in  the 
shape  of  a  semi-circle — every  branch  covered  with  buds  just  ready  to  bloom. 

General  Suggestions. 

1.  All  plants  have  a  season  of  rest  ;  therefore  discover  what  season  is  peculiar 
to  each,  and  transplant  at  that  time.  2.  The  best  time  for  taking  cuttings  is 
when  the  plants  are  in  their  most  active  state  of  growth,  and  this  is  be- 
fore flowering.  3.  Profuse  bloomings  exhaust  the  strength  of  plants,  there- 
fore cut  off  all  flower  buds  as  soon  as  their  petals  fall,  and  do  not  let  the 
seed  pods  mature  unless  you  desire  to  raise  seeds.  4.  All  bulbs  and  tubers 
should  be  planted  before  they  begin  to  shoot ;  if  suffered  to  form  leaves  and  roots 
in  the  air,  they  waste  their  strength.  5.  Never  remove  the  leaves  from  bulbs 
after  flowering  until  they  are  quite  dead.  As  long  as  the  leaves  retain  life  they  are 
employed  in  preparing  nourishment  and  transmitting  it  to  the  roots.  6.  Window 


WINDOW   GARDENING  35 

plants  are  more  liable  to  be  injured  by  frost  than  plants  in  the  ground,  because 
the  fibres  of  the  roots  cling  to  the  sides  of  the  pots  and  are  more  quickly  affected 
by  the  chilling  air.  7.  The  faster  a  plant  grows,  the  farther  apart  are  the 
leaves,  the  more  distant  the  side  branches,  and  the  more  bare  appears  the  stem. 
Richness  of  foliage  can  never  be  attained  when  leaves  become  thus  scattered. 
By  keeping  a  lower  temperature,  especially  at  night,  there  will  be  a  slower  and 
more  desirable  growth,  and  conducive  to  compactness  of  habit  in  plants.  8.  No 
plants  can  bear  sudden  contrasts  of  temperature  without  injury,  therefore  bring 
nothing  directly  from  a  heated  room  to  the  cool  open  air  9.  By  checking  the 
growth  of  leaves  and  branches  you  throw  more  strength  into  the  flowers ;  this 
is  why  the  terminal  shoots  of  many  plants  should  be  pinched  off  to  increase  their 
vigor.  10.  Avoid  excessive  heat.  Plants  often  languish  in  a  hot  temperature 
while  their  owners  cannot  imagine  why  they  do  not  grow,  forgetting  that  the  at- 
mosphere is  already  too  warm  for  even  human  beings.  Suggestions  like  these 
will  show  that  although  Window  Gardens  require  some  skill  and  experience  in 
good  management,  yet  there  is  nothing  abstruse  or  difficult  to  prevent  any  one 
from  undertaking  the  care  of  one  which  needs  only  a  reasonable  degree  of  thought 
and  attention  to  make  it  a  constant  delight. 


CHAPTER 

CARE  OF  WINDOW  GARDENS. 
In  Winter. 

The  beauties  of  the  flower  garden  are  gone,  and  we  are  now  left  to  solace 
ourselves  with  any  green  thing  we  can  coax  by  artificial  help  to  grow  and  bloom 
during  the  long  winter  months,  till  spring  returns  again.  Naturally  enough  we 
hate  to  lose  the  sight  of  the  flowers,  and  graceful  flutter  of  the  green  leaves,  so 
we  strive  to  prolong  our  joy,  as  far  as  possible,  under  many  difficulties  through 
unsuitable  seasons. 

During  the  winter  seasons  the  chief  requisites  of  success,  are  plenty  of  sun- 
shine, an  atmosphere  not  too  dry  or  close,  a  mild  uniform  temperature,  and 
especial  attention  to  cleanliness,  watering  and  daily  care. 

Plants  which  receive  only  a  few  moments  of  attention  a  day  and  then  forgot- 
ten, soon  become  a  disgrace,  and  the  window  garden  becomes  a  nuisance. 

In  the  open  ground  plants  will  flourish  if  left  to  themselves,  but  when  grown 
in  a  pot,  they  are  under  artificial  restraints  and  conditions,  and  must  become 
an  object  of  constant  attention.  This  very  necessity  of  the  case  renders  window 
gardening  of  so  much  greater  interest  than  out  door  gardening. 

Plants  at  night  should  be  in  the  dark,  as  that  is  their  natural  condition  so 
that  they  may  rest,  and  yet  it  is  equally  important  that  they  should  be  freely  ex- 
posed to  the  sun  as  long  as  light  lasts. 

So,  especially  in  the  winter  months,  when  there  is  comparatively  so  little 
sunlight,  place  them  as  closely  to  the  windows  as  they  can  be  well  managed,  if 
not,  they  will  become  unsightly,  drawn  and  weak.  The  more  light  that  a  plant 
receives  the  more  freely  can  it  absorb  carbon  and  breathe  out  oxygen;  so  if  you 
wish  your  plants  to  be  purifiers  of  the  air,  be  sure  that  they  have  plenty  of  light, 
and  keep  both  blinds  and  curtains  from  obstructing  it. 

The  necessity  for  air  in  the  winter  is  no  less  imperative  than  the  demand  for 
light.  In  order  to  cultivate  Geraniums  successfully,  a  constant  supply  of  fresh 
air  is  very  needful.  Roses,  Verbenas,  and  indeed  all  plants  demand  it. 

When  plants  are  first  brought  into  the  house  they  should  not  be  stimulated,  but 
allowed  a  little  time  to  become  accustomed  to  their  new  quarters  ;  and  they  will 
often  wither  a  little  from  the  want  of  fresh  air,  so  let  the  windows  be  open  all 
day,  if  it  is  sunny,  and  accustom  them  by  degrees  to  the  change  of  temperature. 

It  is  not  desirable  to  allow  them  to  remain  out  too  late  in  the  season,  but  they 
should  be  housed  before  any  danger  of  frost  arises  ;  a  slight  chili  will  frequently 


WINDOW   GARDENING  37 

injure  them  greatly,  especially  the   Coleus,  and  all  sub  tropical  plants  unused 
to  our  cold  autumn  winds. 

They  can  be  placed  on  a  protected  piazza,  and  covered  at  night  with  some  mats 
or  sheets,  but  the  true  lover  of  house  plants  does  not  feel  at  ease  until  all  her  pets 
are  standing  in  their  winter  quarters ;  then  the  cold  chilly  winds  may  blow,  and 
Jack  Frost's  icy  fingers  pinch  with  blackening  touches  all  that  they  can  reach; 
the  household  flowers  are  safe  beyond  his  dreaded  touch. 

Do  not  crowd  your  plant  stands  or  windows,  give  to  each  plant  room  to  stretch 
forth  its  branches  and  leaves,  if  you  would  have  it  bloom  in  vigor  and  beauty; 
untidy  straggling  plants  are  always  detestable. 

Every  dead  leaf  must  be  removed  and  every  fading  flower,  and  the  leaf  must 
not  remain  in  the  pots,  but  be  taken  away;  cleanliness  is  so  important  that  no 
damp  leaves  or  decaying  flowers  should  be  left.  Window  plants  suffer  chiefly  in 
the  winter  months  from  indiscriminate  waterings,  allowing  them  to  go  dry  for 
two  or  three  days  and  then  soaking  them  for  a  week. 

Many  a  lady  cannot  imagine  why  her  plants  do  not  grow  and  bloom  as  luxuriantly 
as  at  her  opposite  neighbor's.  But  it  is  the  lack  of  daily  atttention  that  makes  the 
difference.  One  lady  buys  her  plants  because  it  is  the  fashion  to  have  them  in  the 
windows;  the  other»loves  her  plants  as  a  part  of  herself,  sees  in  them  an  individu- 
ality ;  a  glimpse  perhaps  of  something  beautiful  beyond  this  world's  plain  reali- 
ties, and  it  is  not  a  care  for  her  to  attend  to  their  necessities,  but  rather  a  privi 
lege. 

In  the  winter  time  the  familiar  question  is  asked  over  and  over  again:  "  How  am 
I  to  know  when  my  plants  need  watering?"  Watch  them  carefully,  and  they 
will  tell  you;  wilted  leaves,  drooping  branches,  and  yellow  shades  show  that 
they  are  water-clogged ;  they  must  be  allowed  a  respite. 

Turn  up  the  soil  as  heretofore  directed,  with  a  stout  hair  pin,  and  if  it  is  dry 
give  more  water ;  if  not,  abstain  from  it. 

Success  in  window  gardening  depends  greatly  in  never  permitting  the  plants 
to  suffer  from  any  neglect. 

When  you  water,  give  it  copiously,  and  if  the  next  day  the  plants  have 
enough  pass  them  by ;  but  there  are  always  some  in  a  window  or  a  stand  of 
plants  that  desire  it,  so  carry  round  the  watering  pot  every  day,  take  the  time 
either  before  or  after  breakfast,  have  a  special  hour,  and  never  forget  it.  There 
is  more  danger  of  giving  too  much  water  during  the  winter,  than  in  the  spring 
and  summer,  because  the  evaporation  is  much  less. 

In  winter  there  should  be  no  water  left  in  the  saucers ;  with  the  exception  of 
aquatics,  who  require  it. 

A  small  toy  watering  pot  such  as  are  sold  for  children's  use,  is  of  the  greatest 
assistance ;  it  will  sprinkle  the  surface  of  tiny  pots  without  wetting  either  stands 
or  window  glass. 

A  piece  of  oilcloth  is  an  excellent  protection  to  carpets,  and  should  always  be 
placed  under  every  window  and  plant  stand. 

It  is  best  to  select  a  cloudy  day  for  giving  your  plants  ft  thorough  cleaning, 


38  WINDOW  GARDENING 

thereby  imitating  nature,  as  she  seldom  washes  her  vegetation  with  the  SUP 
shining  upon  it. 

A  pail  of  warm  water  can  be  brought  into  the  parlor,  and  each  plant  thoroughly 
wetted  in  it,  the  surface  of  each  leaf  well  moistened,  without  making  any  dis- 
turbance with  the  arrangement  of  the  room. 

Plants  perspire  like  human  beings,  only  the  amount  is  seventeen  times  as  great, 
according  to  Mr.  Halo's  computation 

In  the  Hydrangea,  the  minute  orifices  in  the  space  of  an  inch,  are  found  to  be 
one  hundred  thousand. 

Protection  from  Frost. 

During  the  winter  our  tender  plants  are  liable  to  become  frost-bitten  in  spite  of 
every  precaution  we  may  take  in  their  behalf.  When  the  mercury  out  of  doors 
settles  to  25°  and  30°,  some  little  branches  and  leaves  will  droop,  and  the  soil  in 
some  pots  may  become  solid  in  doors. 

If  this  happens,  all  is  not  lost.  Take  the  blighted  plants  tenderly,  and  dip 
them  into  cold  water,  not  icy  cold,  but  drawn  from  hydrant  or  cistern;  then  place 
them  in  complete  darkness  where  not  a  ray  of  light  can  penetrate,  and  in  three 
days  at  the  utmost,  you  will  find  them  fresh  as  ever,  every  leaf  upright  and 
green,  while  if  they  had  been  left  in  the  light,  every  leaf  would  have  fallen.  Sev- 
eral times  we  have  had  this  experience  with  our  plants  and  have  always  revived 
them 

If  the  pots  are  set  back  at  night  from  the  windows  on  a  piano  or  table,  they 
will  often  escape  freezing. 

If  a  window  opens  on  to  a  piazza,  the  plants  can  be  protected  by  pinning  a 
thick  comforter  outside  of  the  window,  or  tucking  it  into  the  blinds. 

Double  windows  are  highly  essential  in  a  cold  climate  to  keep  off  the  intense 
cold,  but  they  should  always  have  an  opening,  a  pane  of  glass  with  a  hinge,  or  some 
means  by  which  the  room  can  be  aired  daily  ;  the  weekly  cleaning  is  not  often 
enough  to  open  the  windows. 

Do  not  forget  to  shade  them  from  too  much  light  and  heat  in  the  early  part  of 
the  evening. 

The  great  secret  of  success  in  window  gardening,  consists  in  overcoming  as 
much  as  possible  the  disadvantages  under  which  the  plants  labor,  and  rendering 
their  position  and  treatment  as  much  as  possible  like  those  growing  in  the  open 
air. 

Spring  Culture  of  B  'indow  Gardens 

March  is  the  first  month  that  treads  upon  the  flowery  border  of  spring ;  it 
is  the  beginning  of  the  sunny  season  which  shall  awake  the  sleeping  bulbs, 
plants,  shrubs,  and  indeed  all  vegetation 

March,  April,  May  and  June,  are  very  busy  months,  for  in  them  we  make 
large  additions  to  our  collections  of/alants  by  propagating  new  varieties,  both  by 
seeds  and  cuttings. 


WINDOW   GARDENING.  £Q 

Of  course  with  all  your  fancy  for  new  things,  you  will  not  forget  to  secure 
some  few  pots  of  good  old  fashioned  flowers.  They  may  be  dear  to  many  from 
only  childish  associations,  having  proved  their  value  by  the  many  years  in  which 
they  have  been  cherished.  No  true  lover  despises  them 

The  culture  in  the  spring  months  differs  but  little  from  that  of  the  winter  ; 
more  air  can  be  given,  and  often  the  windows  can  be  let  down  from  the  top  for 
the  whole  day.  Remember  that  if  the  thermometer  stands  at  55°  and  65°  out 
of  doors,  and  the  sun  shines  brightly,  too  much  fresh  air  is  impossible;  but  have 
the  windows  closed  by  three  o'clock,  for  by  that  time  a  chilly  wind  often  iprings 
up  in  April,  which  would  prove  injurious  to  many  tender  plants,  in  a  rapidly 
growing  condition.  Later  in  the  season  there  is  no  danger.  Great  attention 
must  be  paid  to  general  cleanliness;  now  is  the  season  to  promote  rapid  growth, 
but  if  the  plants  cannot  breathe  freely,  they  are  in  a  decidedly  consumptive 
state,  and  must  pine  away  To  prolong  the  blooming  of  plants,  every  fading 
flower,  even  if  it  is  but  one  in  a  cluster,  should  be  cut  away. 

To  keep  the  flowers  of  Azaleas  from  failing,  it  is  an  excellent  plan  to  drop  a 
single  drop  of  gum  water  underneath  the  flower,  where  it  sinks  into  the  calyx; 
now  is  the  time  for  their  most  profuse  bloom,  and  they  can  be  made  more  orna- 
mental by  this  process. 

No  flowers  should  be  left  with  water  standing  in  their  saucers,  but  if  the 
plants  are  sunk  in  boxes  or  moss,  there  is  no  need  of  using  saucers,  which  are 
hard  to  keep  clean. 

Be  sure  and  attend  to  the  weekly  washing ,  it  is  quite  as  essential  to  your  plants 
as  to  your  household  cleanliness 

A  small  sized  brush  such  as  painters  use,  will  be  found  of  great  service  as  it 
will  wash  off  the  tiniest  leaf  and  stem. 

Water  must  be  given  plentifully  during  the  spring  months,  and  it  is  well  to 
supply  it  till  a  few  drops  ooze  out  from  the  bottom  of  the  pot ;  but  don't  water 
while  the  sun  shines  full  upon  the  plants. 

Rain  water  is  always  the  best  for  all  vegetation.  We  especially  recommend 
warm  water  in  cold  latitudes,  as  it  cannot  help  but  prove  more  invigorating  to  the 
roots.  The  sun  does  not  shine  every  day  ;  often  it  is  withdrawn  for  a  week,  but 
if  the  soil  is  warmed  with  the  water,  it  will  not  check  the  growth  of  the  plants 
as  much.  This  rule  does  not  apply  so  closely  to  conservatories  ;  there  the  plant 
can  be  sprinkled  as  though  they  were  growing  in  the  open  ground,  and  warm 
water  is  not  so  much  of  a  necessity  in  a  greenhouse,  where  the  whole  tempera- 
ture is  adapted  to  the  needs  of  plant-life.  But  this  is  not  the  case  in  window 
gardens,  and  we  think  its  use  the  greatest  benefit  to  them.  Early  in  April,  or  in 
the  later  days  of  March,  the  plants  that  were  stored  in  the  cellar  for  safe  keeping 
should  be  brought  to  the  light ;  the  decayed  leaves  and  dust  must  be  carefully 
brushed  away  and  picked  off,  and  the  plant  repotted,  ready  to  start  forth  afresh. 
The  more  hardy  plants,  like  Roses,  Geraniums,  Pansies,  etc.,  etc.,  can  be  put 
out  of  doors  on  warm  days  to  enjoy  an  hour  or  so  of  fresh  air  and  sunshine,  at 
noontime;  or  if  a  warm  rain  falls,  all  the  plants  can  go  out  and  drink  in  fresh 


40  WINDOW   GARDENING. 

life  with  every  drop.  But  don't  let  them  remain  out  too  long;  a  ;hill  in  April 
is  often  fatal  to  Heliotropes,  variegated  leaved  plants,  Fuchsias,  etc.  One  must 
be  governed  by  the  climate 

In  March  or  April,  according  to  your  latitude,  it  is  well  to  look  into  the  subject 
of  repotting  the  plants  that  have  stood  in  the  window.  If  the  plants  have  had 
the  requisite  care  and  attention  during  the  winter,  they  have  made  many  new  roots 
and  must  now  have  larger  pots  if  you  would  have  them  grow  to  the  best  advantage. 

Water  the  pots  freely  so  that  the  ball  of  earth  will  slip  out  easily,  and  have 
your  fresh  potting  soil  moist  to  the  touch.  Never  pot  a  plant  with  its  ball  of 
earth  quite  dry,  for  you  cannot  give  it  a  good  watering  in  that  state.  All  the 
water  you  may  supply  will  run  down  the  fresh  soil  at  the  sides,  and  the  plant 
will  experience  the  fate  of  Tantalus  of  old,  and  literally  starve  to  death,  although 
its  nourishment  is  in  sight.  If  you  use  new  pots,  let  them  be  soaked  in  water 
over  night  if  possible,  and  at  least  three  or  four  hours  before  using  them.  If 
your  pots  are  old,  let  them  be  thoroughly  washed,  and  cleansed  from  all  green 
mould  and  soil. 

•  It  is  not  needful  to  provide  larger  pots  when  the  first  roots  show  themselves; 
but  when  they  have  twined  and  interlaced  their  tiny  fibres,  then  they  require 
more  room.  Often  a  light  rap  upon  the  edge  of  the  pot,  will  be  sufficient 
to  turn  out  the  ball  of  earth  ;  but  if  not,  a  thin  bladed  knife  can  be  run 
around  close  to  the  pot  for  an  inch  or  two  from  the  top,  and  this  will  bring  it  out 
easily.  Turn  it  out  with  your  hand  and  examine  the  roots ;  if  they  are  closely 
curled  about  it,  the  plant  requires  a  pot  one  size  larger.  Fill  the  pot  with  rich 
compost  and  put  in  the  ball  and  plant  directly  in  the  centre,  for  a  plant  growing 
sideways  in  a  pot  looks  very  badly;  fill  up  all  around  the  sides  of  the  pot, 
packing  the  soil  down  firmly  with  the  fingers,  cover  the  ball  to  the  depth  of  a 
quarter  or  half  an  inch,  leaving  a  vacant  space  of  half  an  inch  more  to  the  edge 
of  the  pot  for  the  purpose  of  Catering  to  advantage. 

When  you  turn  out  the  plant,  the  roots  will  sometimes  appear  decayed,  and 
the  soil  poor,  dried,  and  gritty  ;  then  wash  it  all  away,  removing  the  dried  roots, 
and  give  fresh,  rich  soil,  pressing  it  firmly  about  the  roots,  but  keep  the  same 
sized  pot. 

Perhaps  you  will  find  your  plants  injured  by  injudicious  watering,  the  roots 
rotted,  and  the  soil  sodden.  Cut  off  the  roots  as  much  as  possible  without  remov- 
ing the  whole  of  them,  and  plant  them  in  much  smaller  pots  with  a  sandy  soil, 
and  they  will  regain  their  health. 

As  the  weather  grows  warmer  in  May,  many  plants  can  be  placed  in  balconies 
or  on  piazzas,  and  shielded  from  chilly  winds  and  cold  nights  by  mats  or  blan- 
kets, or  they  may  be  removed  to  cooler  rooms  where  the  sunshine  will  be  suffi- 
ciently warm  to  keep  them  healthy.  This  is  far  better  than  roasting  them  in 
the  hot  rooms  that  many  will  live  in,  spite  of  all  remonstrances  to  the  contrary. 

Sweet  Verbenas  should  be  brought  from  their  winter  quarters  early  in  March, 
and  they  will  soon  put  forth  their  light  green,  deliciously  perfumed  leaves. 


WINDOW  GARDENING  4  ] 

The  plants  that  will  flower  most  profusely  in  these  months  are  : 

Azaleas.  Heliotropes. 

Abutilons.  Lantanas 

Acacias.  Libonia  floribunda. 

Anemones.  Lobelias. 

Auriculas.  Mahernia   odorata. 

Achimenes.  Maurandias. 

Boumrdias.  Myrtles. 

Begonias  Oranges. 

Ca  lla  A  ethiopica.  Oleanders . 

Cinerarias.  Pelargoniums. 

Cyclamens.  Primroses. 

Daphnes.  Petunias. 

Dielytra.  Pansies. 

Epiphyllum  Truncatum,  etc.  Eoses.     Tea.     Hybrids.     Bourbons 

fuchsias.  '  Bengal  Hoses. 

Gardenias.  Verbenas. 

Geraniums,  in  all  varieties.  Violets. 
The  Mush  plant  (Mimulus  moscliatus}   is  an  universal  favorite. 

For  culture  in  outside  window  boxes,  the  best  are  Violets,  early  flowering 
Snow  Drops,  early  flowering  Anemones,  Forget-me-Nots  and  Primroses. 

Summer  Culture  of  Window  Gardens. 

June,  July  and  August,  do  not  require  as  much  labor  as  the  busy  months  of 
springtime.  To  be  sure  the  cultivator  needs  to  give  daily  attention  lest  the 
plants  should  become  dried  up  from  want  of  water;  and  must  also  tie,  stake, 
prune,  air,  and  weed  with  great  care. 

Water  will  now  be  required  in  greater  quantities,  and  it  need  not  be  any 
warmer  than  standing  in  the  sun  will  make  it.  The  evening  is  the  best  time  to 
apply  it,  because  the  plants  will  drink  it  up  during  the  night  to  their  great  ad- 
vantage, while  if  given  in  the  morning,  the  sun's  rays  will  claim  their  share,  and 
by  quick  evaporation  much  -will  be  lost  in  the  atmosphere.  There  are  some 
plants  that  will  desire,  and  must  have  water  twice  in  the  twenty- four  hours. 
Fuchsias,  Callas,  Lobelias,  etc.,  should  have  water  both  night  and  morning. 

After  the  first  of  June,  the  plants  will  enjoy  all  the  fresh  air  that  can  be  given 
both  night  and  day,  in  nearly  all  latitudes.  Calceolarias  and  Cinerarias  will  be 
benefited  by  being  kept  cool,  which  can  be  done  by  placing  them  on  damp  moss, 
or  refuse  tan  bark,  and  covering  the  surface  of  the  pot  with  it.  By  the  middle 
of  June  thev  can  be  placed  in  a  cool,  shady  window,  and  all  the  stems  that  have 
flowered  should  be  cut  off,  or  if  planted  in  a  cool  border,  they  will  furnish  more 
roots  which  can  be  divided  in  September  or  October. 

By  the  end  of  May,  in  many  localities,  many  plants  will  flourish  better  out- 
side the  window  than  inside ;  Geraniums,  Pelargoniums,  Fuchsias,  Roses,  Helio- 


42  WINDOW   GARDENING. 

tropes,  etc.,  etc.,  can  be  placed  in  boxes  and  vases  on  piazzas  or  balconies,  or  a 
garden  can  be  made  on  the  roof. 

Large  strong  boxes  can  be  attached  to  the  outside  of  the  windows,  and  all 
the  plants  set  into  them.  In  this  way  much  care  is  avoided,  for  the  plants  can 
be  watered  with  a  syringe  or  watering  pot,  and  the  debris  of  withered  leaves  and 
stems  is  more  easily  cleared  away.  The  plants  can  also  be  kept  much  freer  from 
insects,  and  will  grow  more  luxuriantly.  Manure  waterings  can  be  given  weekly. 
A  tablespoonful  of  guano  in  a  gallon  of  water,  which  should  stand  in  the  sun  two 
or  three  days  before  being  applied,  is  the  easiest  to  procure,  but  all  or  any  of  the 
manures  alluded  to  before,  can  be  employed.  When  the  flower  buds  appear, 
stimulants  are  much  needed  ;  and  if  no  other  can  be  procured,  try  this.  Put  a 
teaspoonful  of  aqua  am)nonia  into  a  gallon  of  water,  and  sprinkle  it  all  over  the 
leaves  and  surface  of  the  soil.  Cut  off  all  faded  flowers ;  this  greatly  helps  to  keep 
the  plants  free  from  mildew,  and  increases  their  healthy  condition ;  every  yel- 
low leaf  should  be  taken  off  as  soon  as  perceived. 

If  ever  a  plant  becomes  thoroughly  dry  from  oversight  or  neglect,  place  it  in  a 
deep  pan  of  rain  water  (if  possible,)  and  let  it  remain  for  an  hour  or  longer,  until 
it  is  thoroughly  soaked,  but  do  not  let  the  pot  be  entirely  covered  with  the  water. 
Hot  water  will  frequently  revive  faded  cut  flowers ;  cut  off  a  small  bit  of  the 
stein,  and  then  immerse  the  end  into  very  hot  water;  you  can  see  the  petals 
smooth  out  from  their  crumpled  folds,  the  leaves  uncurl,  and  the  whole  branch 
and  flower  resume  its  beauty.  Colored  flowers  revive  the  most  completely. 
White  flowers  turn  yellow,  and  the  thickest  textured  petals  come  out  the  best 
from  this  hot  foot  bath 

For  preserving  flowers  in  water,  there  is  nothing  so  good  as  finely  powdered 
charcoal.  It  keeps  the  water  from  all  obnoxious  odors.  As  a  general  rule  too  much 
air  and  too  much  light  can  not  be  given ;  yet  when  m  full  bloom  the  direct  rays 
of  the  sun  will  cause  delicate  flowers  to  fade  rapidly,  while  if  they  are  shaded 
from  the  noon-tide  heat,  their  beauty  will  be  much  prolonged ;  but  during  the 
night  the  more  fresh  air  they  breathe  is  the  better. 

If  house-plants  are  plunged  in  pots  into  the  borders,  care  must  be  taken  to 
either  close  up  the  outlet  at  the  botom  of  the  pot,  or  else  to  put  bits  of  plank  or 
shingles  under  them,  or  set  them  upon  small  stones.  This  is  needful  on  account 
of  the  tendency  of  their  tiny  rootlets  to  force  their  way  out  of  the  pot,  and  when 
the  plant  is  removed,  they  must  necessarily  be  cut  off,  thereby  causing  it  to 
droop  or  wither,  and  greatly  injuring  its  growth. 

It  is  not  advisable  to  let  your  plants  run  to  seed.  You  desire  to  secure  flowers, 
and  to  do  this  you  must  not  let  the  plant  fulfil  its  mission  of  leaves,  buds,  flow- 
ers and  seeds  in  natural  order,  but  by  cutting  off  all  the  faded  blooms,  stimulate 
it  to  shoot  forth  fresh  branches  and  buds,  and  strive  to  do  its  duty. 

In  order  to  secure  seeds  that  are  worth  planting,  it  is  needful  to  pick  off  al' 
the  later  buds,  and  throw  the  whole  strength  of  the  plant  into  forming  seed  tha> 
will  prove  worth  the  raising. 


WINDOW    GARDENING  43 

Do  not  omit  the  practice  of  washing  your  pot  plants  in  the  summer,  thinking 
that  the  rain  will  do  it  for  you.  It  will  help  you  doubtless,  but  if  the  leaves  are 
bushy,  many  of  them  will  not  have  their  full  share,  and  should  still  be  syringed 
and  washed  with  all  the  help  of  thumb  and  finger,  sponge,  brush,  or  garden  syringe 

Keep  the  soil  well  stirred  up  in  these  months,  for  if  you  desire  healthy  plants 
the  air  must  have  access  to  the  roots,  and  the  surface  of  the  pot  must  not  be 
allowed  to  cake.  There  are  many  annuals  that  make  fine  pot  plants  both  in 
summer  and  winter,  but  in  June,  July  and  August,  they  will  give  you  most 
brilliant  flowers  at  a  very  small  cost.  Boxes  of  Portulacca,  Asters,  Phlox,  Stocks, 
Balsams,  Pinks,  Schizanthus,  Zinnias,  etc.,  are  highly  ornamental  and  within  the 
reach  of  all  flower  lovers,  while  each  of  the  above  named  flowers  make  handsome 
single  plants  in  pots. 

We  can  hardly  give  a  list  of  flowers  that  bloom  in  these  months,  for  their  name 
is  legion,  and  embraces  many  of  those  mentioned  heretofore. 

The  Lilies  are  in  their  glory,  and  there  can  be  no  finer  pot  plants  raised  than 
the  various  varieties  of  Japan  Lilies,  Tigridias,  Amaryllis  and  Vallotta  purpurea 
vuperba,  all  of  which  are  mentioned  in  the  chapter  upon  bulbs. 

Late  in  August,  cuttings  can  be  struck  from  all  bedding-out  plants  that  are 
desired  to  be  kept  during  the  winter.  At  this  season  they  strike  root  very  freely, 
and  will  frequently  become  fine  plants  by  December. 

Gloxinias  and  Achimenes  are  most  desirable  additions  to  summer  blooming 
flowers.  The  Gloxinias  are  particularly  beautiful  and  brilliant.  Their  exquisite 
coloring  and  freshness  is  unequaled. 

Achimenes  are,  also,  a  genus  of  splendid  plants,  which  will  be  described  in 
Part  II.  They  are  unrivaled  in  beauty  of  coloring  and  form.  They  produce 
the  most  beautiful  masses  of  blossoms  in  vases  and  baskets,  over  which  they  fes- 
toon their  glorious  flowers  and  trailing  branches. 

Autumn  Culture  of  Window  Gardens 

For  this  season  there  is  little  to  be  added  to  the  directions  already  given  for  the 
culture  of  house  plants  in  previous  months  The  plants  that  are  intended  for 
winter  flowering  should  all  be  repotted  and  prepared  for  their  permanent  quarters 
early  in  September,  so  as  to  become  fully  established  in  the  pots  before  the  season 
is  cold  and  gloomy.  The  roots  must  be  attended  to  as  heretofore  directed,  and 
if  they  cling  to  the  surface  of  the  pot,  one  of  a  larger  size  should  be  substituted, 
and  fresh  earth  given.  Be  sure  to  procure  good  soil,  and  to  press  it  tightly  about 
the  roots,  and  crown  of  the  bulb,  or  stem  of  the  plant 

Do  not  attempt  to  cultivate  too  many  plants,  remembering  that  o*.e  strong, 
handsome  shaped  healthy  plant  is  worth  more  than  ten  or  twelve  sickly  things, 
that  are  lanky,  scraggy  and  never  blossom 

Give  your  plants  the  morning  sunshine.  It  is  far  better  than  the  afternoon, 
and  if  the  windows  open,  both  to  the  east  and  southwest,  so  much  the  better  for 


44  WINDOW  GARDENING. 

the  plants  at  both  windows ;  yet,  if  no  other  location  can  be  procured,  the  after 
noon  sun  is  far  better  than  none  at  all. 

Never  use  glazed  pots  or  crockery  and  painted  ware,  unless  the  common  pots 
are  set  into  them  for  ornamental  purposes. 

Stimulate  once  a  week  with  some  one  of  the  various  liquid  manures  alluded  to 

Avoid  extremes  of  cold  and  heat,  and  give  all  the  air  that  is  allowable,  accord 
ing  to  the  temperature  out  of  doors. 

Of  course,  each  gardener  must  regulate  her  plants,  according  to  the  latitude  in 
which  she  lives.  If,  on  the  Pacific  slope,  the  dust  that  is  so  tenacious  during 
summer  and  autumn  must  be  the  greatest  enemy  to  contend  with,  while  on  the 
Atlantic  coast  the  chilly,  bleak  east  winds  are  the  greatest  drawbacks  to  success- 
ful plant  culture.  In  the  west,  the  cold  winds  blow  from  the  Rocky  Mountains. 

No  set  code  of  rules  can  be  given,  and  common  sense  must  govern  window 
gardening,  as  well  as  in  all  the  branches  of  domestic  economy. 

A  large  sponge  will  do  duty  for  a  watering  pot,  or  a  hand  brush  broom  dipped 
into  water  and  shaken  over  the  plants ;  but  sprinkling  must  be  given  in  some 
shape,  at  least,  once  a  day. 

If  the  pots  are  thoroughly  washed  with  hot  soap  suds,  all  tendency  to  green 
mould  will  be  prevented. 

Make  the  water  that  is  given,  warmer  now  than  in  the  summer.  Put  your 
finger  into  the  saucer,  and  see  how  cold  it  is,  when  it  drains  through  the  outlet. 
And  if  quite  cold,  give  water  of  a  greater  warmth. 

Plants  that  are  in  a  state  of  rest,  should  have  but  very  little  water  during  the 
autumn. 

Bulbs  must  be  started  for  early  flowering  in  September  and  for  Easter,  bloom- 
ing late,  in  November. 

Roses  should  all  be  repotted  with  rich  soil :  full  two-thirds  of  entirely  decom- 
posed cow  manure  and  leaf  mould,  so  decayed  as  to  crumble  in  the  fingers, 
should  be  added,  to  one-third  of  good  sandy  loam. 

As  most  of  the  desirable  flowering  plants  will  be  treated  of  in  their  respective 
chapters,  it  will  only  be  a  repetition  to  notice  them  here,  or  to  give  a  list  of  them. 


CHA.PTER   V. 

INSECTS,  AND  How  TO  KILL  THEM. 

The  previous  anxieties  of  the  gardener  are  but  light  compared  to  the  deadly 
warfare  he  is  now  forced  to  wage  against  the  tiny  insects  which  not  only  infest  his 
house-plants,  hut  the  soil  in  which  they  grow  and  bloom. 

The  red  spider  is  the  most  minute,  yet  the  most  dangerous  foe  wherewith  we  have 
to  deal.  Hot  and  close  parlors  and  sitting-rooms,  are  its  delight,  and  it  weaves 
its  tiny  webs  about  the  casements  waiting  until  the  plants  are  ready  to  feed  it. 

He  is  a  treacherous  invidious  enemy  seeming  to  lie  in  the  window  frames  quiet 
and  warm,  but  ready  to  seize  upon  our  rarest  Roses,  most  valuable  Fuchsias  and 
Carnations,  as  soon  as  they  are  placed  in  their  winter  quarters. 

It  is  the  tiniest  of  red  mites  ;  the  merest  grain  as  it  lies  in  repose  under  the 
leaves  of  the  plant  it  has  chosen  for  its  dwelling,  but  when  the  leaf  is  closely  ex- 
amined, it  rushes  wildly  about,  apparently  knowing  that  it  is  doomed,  and  its 
minutes  are  numbered. 

Though  these  pests  are  so  minute,  one  can  easily  discover  their  presence  ;  for 
the  upper  sides  of  the  leaves  grow  brown  and  sire,  and  the  plant  loses  its  healthy 
appearance. 

A  thorough  sprinkling  and  washing  may  drive  away  the  intruders,  but  if  the 
heated  and  close  atmosphere  is  still  continued,  plenty  more  will  be  generated. 

Red  pepper  has  been  found  decidedly  obnoxious  to  it.  It  should  be  dusted  upon 
with  a  pepper  castor,  holding  the  plant  bottom  side  upwards,  while  another  per- 
son dusts  on  the  pepper.  Of  course  you  must  take  care  not  to  let  it  fall  in  any 
quantity  upon  the  soil  of  the  pot,  lest  it  should  injure  the  roots. 

A  decoction  of  quassia  will  also  act  fatally  upon  insect  life,  if  used  in  the 
following  proportions  : 

Boil  one  ounce  of  quassia  wood  in  three  pints  of  water  until  but  a  quart  re- 
mains ;  when  luke  warm,  either  dip  in  the  infested  plants,  or  sponge  offeach  leaf 
with  a  sponge  or  brush.  Let  them  stand  fifteen  minutes  or  so,  then  dip  the 
plants  or  wash  them  off  with  clear  water,  as  the  decoction  of  quassia,  if  allowed 
to  remain  on  the  leaves,  will  injure  them. 

Tobacco  smoke  is  also  a  good  preventive  to  some  insects,  but  this  red  spider 
does  not  seem  to  heed  it. 

The  aphis  or  green  fly,  does  not  affect  a  liking  for  tobacco,  for  it  intoxicates 
it,  and  causes  it  to  fall  from  the  leaves  and  branches  of  all  plants.  Hold  a 
lighted  cigar  under  the  leaves  of  your  Roses,  etc.,  not  so  near  as  to  curl  them 


4G  WINDOW   GARDENING. 

with  the  heat  however,  and  see  how  they  will  fall  down  completely  stupefied;  but, 
if  left  to  themselves,  they  will  revive,  and  slowly  return  to  their  leafy  homes. 
Place  a  paper  under  the  leaves  when  you  apply  the  smoke,  and  then  you  can 
easily  destroy  them. 

If  a  plant  is  very  much  infested  with  these  noxious  pests,  take  the  pot  in  your 
hand  and  spread  a  paper  under  it,  then  with  a  feather  or  small  wing,  brush  off 
the  insects  and  burn  them  ill  up.  Then  dip  the  plant  into  warm  water,  to  kill 
the  eggs,  and  with  a  weekly  washing,  smoking  or  sprinkling,  not  an  insect  will 
be  seen. 

A  conservatory  plant-stand,  or  window  garden  with  plants  covered  with  these 
insects,  plainly  announces  the  neglect  they  have  received.  The  old  maxim  seems 
to  come  here  again  in  play,  i.  e.  "  An  ounce  of  prevention  is  worth  a  pound  of 
cure." 

If  plants  were  as  carefully  washed  and  tended  as  many  pet  animals  were, 
there  would  be  no  need  of  any  remedies  against  insects. 

Conservatories  can  be  kept  free  of  all  insects  by  being  smoked  once  a  week 
with  tobacco.  Close  all  the  windows  carefully  that  lead  into  the  house,  take 
the  largest  size  flower  pot-saucer,  put  a  shovel  full  of  blazing  coals  into  it,  and 
pour  over  them  an  ounce  of  tobacco,  letting  it  smoke  well  ;  if  it  is  slightly  damp- 
ened the  smoke  will  be  more  dense.  Let  it  smoke  for  half  an  hour,  then  open 
the  window  out  of  doors,  and  let  the  smoke  go  out.  Choose  a  bright  fair  day 
when  half  an  hour's  outside  air  will  not  injure  the  plants,  and  you  will  keep  all  of 
them  fresh  and  vigorous. 

The  mealy  bug,  is  a  white  mealy  looking  insect,  but  very  destructive  to  plant 
life.  It  does  not.  dislike  tobacco,  but  has  a  hatred  to  whale  oil  soap.  A  quarter 
of  a  pound  dissolved  in  five  quarts  of  water,  and  syringed  on  to  the  plants,  or 
sprinkled  with  a  watering  pot,  will  force  it  to  disappear. 

Like  the  aphis,  it  can  be  brushed  off  with  a  chicken's  wing. 

lirown  scah  will  sometimes  attack  Roses,  Daphnes,  Oranges  and  Pittosporums, 
but  it  is  not  nearly  as  common  as  the  above  mentioned  insect.  Bad  ventilation 
and  dark  places  are  its  chief  cause  and  habitat  ;  frequent  washings  and  picking 
off  with  the  hand,  are  its  only  means  of  destruction,  as  it  thrives  on  tobacco 
smoke,  and  makes  no  objection  to  the  disgusting  odor  of  whale  oil  soap  suds. 

Thrips  is  a  dark  brown  or  whitish  yellow  fly,  very  active  on  the  wing,  and 
greatly  injurious  to  many  plants.  It  will  not  thrive  where  tobacco  smoke  is 
given  tc  plants,  and  is  most  likely  to  be  found  where  plants  are  placed  thickly 
together,  in  a  shaded  window. 

The  Verbena  mite  is  a  most  tiny  insect,  smaller  than  the  red  spider,  and  quite 
as  disastrous  in  its  ravages.  It  « innot  be  seen  with  the  naked  eye,  but  viewed 
through  a  microscope,  it  appears  as  large  as  a  house  fly 

If  it  attacks  your  plants,  it  appears  like  a  black  rust  so  thickly  does  it  congre- 
gate together.  It  delights  in  Heliotropes,  Petunias,  Verbenas,  etc.,  and  is  closely 
allied  to  the  insect  which  infests  the  Plum,  Peach  and  Cherry  trees 
\     Neither  sulphur,  tobacco,  or  whnle  oil  soap  are  obnoxious  to  it,  but  it  will  run 


WINDOW    GARDENING  47 

away  from  the  "  Grafton  Mimeral  Fertilizer,"  and  a  thorough  sprinkling  of  the 
dry  powder  on  the  leaves  or  steins   well   moistened,  will  make  the  insects  dis 
lodge  their  hold,  not  to  r;eturn. 

There  is  another  mite  whose  color  varies  from  green  to  black,  and  is  as  par- 
ticular in  its  attentions  to  Carnations  and  Pinks,  and  *o  rapid  in  its  movements, 
that  it  has  been  named  the  "  Carnation  Twitter."  It  is  very  destructive  to  all 
the  varieties  of  plants  above  mentioned,  and  it  affects  the  leaves  like  the  spider, 
making  them  very  unhealthy  in  appearance  and  as  yet  no  means  have  been  found 
to  destroy  it. 

If  plants  grow   vigorously,  are  healthy  and    well  cared    for,  the   ravages  of 
insects  are  not  to  be  much  dreaded  ;  and  if  they  do  appear  they  can  be  quickly 
routed.     Undoubtedly  we  must  fight  if  we  would  become  the  owners  of  hand 
some,  finely   formed,    profuse  blossoming  plants ;  and  she  who  devotes  the  most 
time  to  them,  will  be  the  proudest  of  the  flowers  she  rears. 

Sulphur  and  tobacco  are  powerful  remedies  in  the  hands  of  an  amateur,  and 
will  often  not  only  kill  all  the  insects,  but  destroy  all  the  plants.  As  almost  every 
amateur  usually  undertakes  to  try  some  experiment  for  himself,  so  we  record 
the  experience  of  a  lady  who  writes  us  : 

**  Years  ago,  when  we  had  the  charge  of  a  small  conservatory,  we  tried  the 
effect  of  sulphur  thrown  upon  hot  coais  to  kill  infested  plants.  Every  insect 
succumbed  before  its  direful  fumes  ;  so  aisodid  the  plants;  hardly  a  leaf  remained 
on  the  stems  the  following  day,  and  the  poor  leafless  branches  spake  to  me  in 
terms  of  sad  reproach  through  their  mute  lips.  I  was  then  a  tyro  in  the  busi- 
ness, and  greatly  desired  to  have  every  thing  done  thoroughly. 

"Thus!  learned,  that  there  is  no  teacher  like  experience,  his  school  is  a  hard 
one,  he  is  a  stern  disciplinarian,  but  when  his  lessons  are  once  learned  they  are 
not  forgotten,  but  are  indellibly  printed  upon  the  pages  of  memory 

"  Luckily  for  my  conservatory,  it  was  denuded  of  its  leaves  in  May,  and  soon 
the  poor  forlorn  plants  were  set  out  into  the  borders  where  they  could  recuperate 
and  regain  the  foliage  denuded  by  so  strong  a  sulphur  bath. 

"  Again :  I  tried  tobacco  tea,  and  n  it  steeped  »ach  treasured  Rose,  each  loved 
Fuchsia,  and  they  looked  so  worn  and  weary  after  it  that  I  was  heart  sick  with 
my  efforts  in  their  behalf.  Since  then,  I  have  been  very  shy  of  trying  such  ex- 
periments, and  content  myself  with  hand  brushing  and  washing,  but  still  more 
with  the  daily  care,  the  constant  loving  attention  which  is  much  the  surest  and 
the  safest  for  flowers." 

White  mites  may  frequently  be  seen  infesting  the  soil  in  pots.  They  seem  to 
be  the  larvge  of  a  small  black  or  brown  fly,  and  are  very  injurious  to  the  well-being 
of  the  plants.  Lime  water,  salt  and  water,  and  hot  water,  have  all  been  tried. 
The  first  two  were  inefficient  to  injure  them,  and  the  last  killed  the  plants.  Now 
we  turn  in  a  goodly  supply  of  warm  water,  and  when  we  see  wriggling  specks  of 
white,  take  up  the  pot  and  turn  off  the  water.  Give  another  supply,  and  turn 
that  away,  and  continue  to  do  so  until  not  one  remains.  The  third  or  fourth  day 
the  process  is  repeated,  and  by  this  means  the  troublesome  mites  are  destroyed 


48  WINDOW  GARDENING. 

Wood  ashes  will  sometimes  drive  them  away.  They  appear  to  be  on  or  near 
the  surface  of  the  pot.  Red  pepper  carefully  dusted  over  the  outside  of  the  earth 
will  kill  them,  and  then  the  earth  containing  it  can  be  removed,  lest  the  pepper 
might  prove  too  heating  to  the  roots.  Salt  is  said  to  drive  them  away.  We  tried 
it  as  recommended,  and  killed  half  a  do/en  of  our  finest  Carnations,  so  concluded 
not  to  try  such  rash  experiments  on  choice  plants.  Again,  in  using  the  red 
pepper,  of  course  you  must  not  put  on  a  full  spoonful,  but  only  a  slight  sprinkling 
over  the  surface,  where  the  worms  lie  the  thickest. 

If  angle  worms  are  in  the  soil,  they  can  be  removed  by  turning  out  the  ball  of 
earth  and  picking  them  out,  and  if  a  tine  hair  pin  or  knitting  needle  is  thrust 
into  the  soil,  they  will  all  come  to  the  surface  and  can  easily  be  dislodged. 

Lime  water  will  also  drive  them  out  and  help  the  growth  of  the  plant,  keeping 
the  foliage  fresh  and  bright.  It  can  bo  applied  once  a  week  without  damage  to 
the  plant,  and  can  be  made  by  slacking  a  small  piece  of  fresh  lime  in  hot  water, 
then  adding  cold,  and  stirring  it  well.  The  water  will  only  dissolve  just  so  much 
lime,  and  the  residue  will  remain  in  the  pail  or  lirkin  used  to  dissolve  it.  More 
water  can  be  turned  on  to  it,  and  so  continue  until  it  is  all  taken  up.  Then  bottle 
the  water  and  cork  up  for  use.  Keep  the  bottles  where  they  *nll  not  freeze.  A 
little  of  the  undissolved  lime  can  be  put  into  every  bottle,  and  when  the  water 
turns  out  discolored,  more  can  be  added  to  it. 

A  tablespoonful  of  spirits  of  camphor,  added  to  a  pint  and  a  half  of  water,  will 
make  a  good  wash  to  keep  off  insects.  But  with  proper  care  and  good  manage- 
ment these  antidotes  need  not  be  employed. 

Fresh  water  well  applied,  fresh  air  at  proper  times,  and  cleanliness  at  all  times, 
are  thj  best  preventives  one  can  employ  against  insects. 


CHAPTER    VI. 

PROPAGATION  FROM  SEEDS,  CUTTINGS,  ETC. 

At  present  most  of  our  Window  Gardens  in  cities  are  filled  with  plants  bought 
from  the  florist.  Of  course  one  half  do  not  know  how  they  are  grown,  and  hence 
do  not  well  know  how  to  take  care  of  them. 

Every  window  gardener,  it  seems  to  us,  should  understand  the  first  principles 
of  plant  life,  and  learn  for  himself  how  they  are  propagated. 

Nearly  all  plants  that  are  desirable  for  window  gardening  can  be  raised  either 
from  seeds,  cuttings  or  by  grafting.  Bulbous  roots  are  propagated  chiefly  from 
offsets,  and  the  new  varieties  are  produced  from  the  seeds.  Other  plants  are  also 
increased  by  offsets  or  separating  the  roots,  but  their  number  is  comparatively 
few. 

Warmth,  moisture,  proper  temperature  and  a  soil  suitable  to  promote  the 
sprouting  of  the  germ,  and  a  shady  situation  until  the  seeds  have  swelled,  are 
essential  to  the  vegetation  of  seeds. 

For  window  plants  a  greater  degree  of  warmth  is  needful.  Unless  the  air  is  from 
66°  to  70°,  and  some  bottom  heat  is  supplied,  your  success  will  not  satisfy  you. 
Seeds  of  tender  plants  require  hot  house  treatment.  Moisture  must  not  be  with 
held  at  any  time ;  yet,  if  it  is  in  excess,  the  seeds  are  apt  to  decay  before  they 
sprout.  A  thick  piece  of  flannel  wet  with  hot  water,  and  laid  over  the  soil  and 
pressed  lightly  down  upon  it,  will  ensure  the  needful  moisture,  warmth  and 
darkness.  Warm  water  should  be  given  over  it,  letting  it  permeate  slowly 
through  it.  It  must  be  lifted  daily  to  see  if  the  tender  seeds  are  starting ;  the 
flannel  must  be  removed  before  the  leaves  appear,  and  a  pane  of  glass  which  will 
exactly  cover  the  seed  box  or  pot  placed  closely  over  them. 

Too  deep  planting  is  a  fruitful  cause  of  failure  with  amateur  seed  raisers.  The 
depth  of  the  soil  must  be  proportioned  to  the  size  of  the  seed.  Petunias,  Primu- 
las, etc.,  require  the  least  sprinkling  of  sandy  loam. 

A  good  general  rule  is  to  cover  the  seed  only  to  the  thickness  of  their  own 
diameter,  yet  this  would  not  hold  good  with  Sweet  Peas,  for  they  grow  better 
when  planted  three  inches  in  depth. 

With  very  fine  seeds  it  is  best  to  press  them  lightly  into  the  surface  of  the  soil 
with  the  fingers,  then  shade  from  the  sun  three  or  four  days  either  with  cloth  or 
newspapers,  and  sprinkle  over  the  coverings,  not  letting  them  become  dry  at  all, 
yet  not  killing  the  germ  of  the  seeds  by  too  much  water. 

Most  tyros  in  plant  culture  fail  by  sowing  their  seeds  in  soil  that  is  too  wet  or 

4 


5()  WINDOW  GARDENING. 

too  dry.  All  seeds  sown  in  pots  are  more  difficult  to  manage  than  those  raised 
in  a  hot  bed  or  in  the  border  on  account  of  the  danger  of  drying  up.  The  ancient 
maxim  again  comes  up,  "  that  if  a  thing  is  worth  doing  at  all,  it  is  worth  doing 
well."  So  in  plant  culture  it  is  just  as  easy  to  do  it  right  as  wrong.  The  soil 
should  be  light  and  sandy;  clear  sand,  such  as  the  masons  use  for  making  plaster, 
is  just  the  thing  with  which  to  cover  the  seeds,  and  to  mix  with  the  loam.  The 
soil  should  not  be  all  of  sand,  because  it  will  dry  too  quickly.  Nor  must  it  be 
of  clayey  loam,  because  it  will  keep  too  wet,  and  will  not  let  the  air  circulate 
freely  enough  to  make  the  seeds  vegetate.  But  a  good  loam  mixed  with  sand 
will  answer  our  purpose  exactly. 

Fill  the  pots  with  it  and  leave  quarter  of  an  inch  of  clear,  sand  at  the  top,  for 
the  minute  seeds,  and  half  an  inch  for  those  of  larger  size.  Abutilons,  Pelargo- 
niums, Coboea,  etc.  Set  the  pots  in  water  up  to  the  rims  to  lee  the  soil  become 
thoroughly  wetted,  then  place  them  to  drain  for  half  an  hour  or  more.  Plant  Hie 
seeds  on  the  surface,  sprinkling  over  them  and  pressing  lightly  upon  them  band 
proportionate  to  their  needs. 

The  sand  must  not  be  allowed  to  dry  at  all,  and  we  find  that  nearly  all  kinds 
of  seeds  will  germinate  more  quickly  in  it  than  in  loam,  though  a  mixture  of 
both  may  be  desirable  in  some  cases  when  the  care  is  not  constant.  Shallow 
cigar  boxes  are  preferable  to  pots;  they  will  hold  much  more,  can  be  handled  as 
easily,  and  make  the  best  seed  pans  that  we  know  of. 

The  soil  for  planting  seeds  should  be  as  fine  as  possible.  It  is  a  good  plan  to 
bake  it  in  an  old  pan  in  the  oven,  then  sift  it  through  a  good  sized  sieve,  which 
can  be  made  out  of  an  old  milk  pan,  by  boring  holes  through  the  bottom  of  it. 
Soil  thus  prepared  is  far  better  than  if  taken  directly  from  the  garden,  yet  in  all 
cases  it  is  better  to  buy  it  of  the  florists,  then  you  know  it  is  just  right. 

When  the  second  tier  of  leaves  show  themselves,  it  is  time  to  transplant  the 
seedlings,  into  the  pots  or  boxes  in  which  you  intend  them  to  grow  and  bloom. 

There  is  some  art  in  watering  seedlings  as  well  as  plants,  as  there  is  great  dan- 
ger of  the  tiny  sprouts  becoming  water  clogged  or  "  damped  off." 

It  is  often  better  to  water  little  pots  by  placing  them  in  shallow  pans  of  wa- 
ter, and  letting  them  suck  up  moisture  for  a  few  minutes.  Boxes  can  be  mois- 
tened by  pouring  the  water  against  the  sides  of  them,  holding  the  spout  close  to 
them,  and  letting  only  a  small  stream  fall  from  the  nozzle,  thus  gently  wetting 
the  whole  surface. 

The  pane  of  glass  that  is  to  be  kept  over  the  young  plants,  can  be  edged  upon 
one  side  to  give  more  air,  and  prevent  their  growing  spindling,  and  wire 
drawn. 

Bell  glasses  are  much  better  however,  and  are  largely  used  in  England  and  in 
France  where  they  are  called  cloches.  They  are  conical,  rising  to  a  sharp  point 
in  the  middle,  and  are  of  cheap  construction.  Seedlings  raised  under  them  flour- 
ish finely,  and  there  is  little  need  for  watering  tiny  plants ;  for  when  the  edge  of 
the  glass  is  within  the  rim  of  the  pot,  the  moisture  becomes  condensed  upon 
the  sides  of  the  glass,  and  moistens  the  soil  by  trickling  down  upon  it. 


WINDOW  GARDENING.  5} 

Another  desirable  way  is  to  pack  the  pot  in  which  the  seeds  are  planted,  into 
another  pot  of  larger  size,  and  fill  up  the  space  with  moss,  refuse  hops  or  tan 
bark,  which  can  be  kept  both  warm  and  moist  with  hot  water.  A  little  of  it  can 
stand  in  the  saucer  which  holds  the  largest  pot,  and  thus  a  uniform  state  of 
moisture  can  be  preserved. 

Hard  shelled  seeds,  like  Canna,  Acacias,  Cypress  Vines,  etc.,  will  germinate 
much  quicker  if  they  are  soaked  in  boiling  water  for  an  hour  or  so.  Turn  it 
upon  them  boiling  hot,  and  let  it  stand  until  cool,  then  plant  the  seeds.  Some 
gardeners  prefer  to  pour  boiling  water  upon  the  surface  of  the  soil  prepared  for 
them,  rather  than  upon  the  seeds.  Either  way  will  succeed,  but  it  is  essential 
to  soften  the  horny  substance  which  envelops  the  seeds,  if  you  desire  them  to 
grow. 

Verbena  seeds  require  soaking  in  warm  water  over  night ;  turn  the  water  upon 
them,  and  let  the  cup  stand  in  a  warm  place. 

Many  beautiful  plants  can  be  raised  from  seeds  as  easily  as  from  cuttings,  and 
be  more  highly  appreciated  because  they  are  all  your  own,  developed  by  your 
patient  care  and  attention. 

Begonias,  Callas,  Oleanders,  Cyclamens,  Calceolarias,  Gloxinias,  Primulas, 
Carnations,  Lantanas,  Coleus,  Heliotropes,  Geraniums,  Cinerarias,  Pelargo- 
niums, Camellias,  Abutilons  and  Cacti,  etc.,  can  all  be  made  to  grow  into  fine 
plants,  but  it  requires  constant  care  anj  patience  to  cultivate  them. 

Some  of  them  are  very  long  in  germinating,  others  in  blooming,  and  they  re- 
quire much  time,  for  the  least  neglect  will  often  prove  fatal  to  them. 

Cuttings. 

There  is  little  trouble  raising  plants  from  cuttings ;  a  few  rules  are  essential, 
and  a  little  care  and  time  are  requisite,  but  any  one  can  make  them  strike  root. 

They  can  be  struck  either  from  woody  pieces  without  leaves,  but  all  ready  to 
send  them  forth,  or  from  young  green  shoots. 

The  first  mentioned  will  rarely  fail  to  grow,  but  they  grow  slowly,  taking 
sometimes  a  long  time  to  start  the  first  leaf,  while  the  nice  green  shoots  wiU 
quickly  become  respectable  plants.  But  it  is  well  to  know  that  it'  the  branches 
of  an  old  plant  are  broken  down,  the  hard  woody  stems  will  produce  b»  time,  fine 
plants. 

Take  a  hard  old  stem  of  Geranium,  Fuchsias,  Myrtle,  Heliotrope,  tfweet  Ver- 
bena, or  any  desirable  plant,  and  cut  it  so  as  to  leave  one  or  two  joints  or  eye? 
on  a  piece,  (a  joint  is  the  slight  thickening  of  the  branch  whence  the  leaves  and 
side  branches  will  come  out),  set  them  into  a  damp  sponge  or  moss,  keeping  it 
moistened,  for  four  or  five  days,  a  week  may  not  be  too  long,  but  keep  them  in  a 
dark  cool  place.  A  slight  callous  will  then  be  formed,  and  the  cutting  will  be 
all  ready  to  put  forth  fresh  roots  as  soon  as  it  is  potted. 

In  carrying  cuttings  from  place  to  place,  it  is  best  to  wrap  them  in  a  damp 
sponge,  leaving  out  the  upper  leaves,  and  covering  the  sponge  with  oil  situ  or 


52  WINDOW    GARDENING. 

enamel  cloih.  A\i  c^ti'ngs  strike  root  more  quickly  in  sand  than  in  loam,  and  i 
the  bottom  of  the  joint  touches  the  side  of  the  pot  or  box,  it  hastens  its  growth. 

Bottom  neat  is  quite  as  needful  to  propagate  cuttings  as  seeds,  and  the  heated 
cases  referred  to  m  another  chapter  would  give  every  amateur  a  desirable  hot 
bed  at  a  slight  outlay.  To  raise  cuttings  from  a  fresh  or  succulent  branch,  it  is 
needful  to  take  one  in  a  proper  condition  to  secure  success. 

Mr.  Henderson  says,  that  if  a  cutting  bends,  it  will  not  grow  easily,  but  if  it 
snaps  oif  it  is  ready  to  make  root,  and  become  a  vigorous  plant.  This  test  does 
not  always  apply  to  woody  stemmed  plants  like  Myrtles,  Sweet  Verbenas,  Daph- 
nes, Roses  and  Azaleas,  but  their  growth  is  usually  finer  if  the  wood  is  easily 
broken. 

Whether  the  cuttings  are  of  hard  or  Sii^uleat  growth,  they  are  similarly 
planted,  and  the)  can  be  inserted  all  a^oaiid  Ut>  wJ^e  of  a  pot  net  over  an  inch 
apart,  and  nearly  aj  Oeop  as  tl.e  second  ej'e. 


CHLAPTER   VII. 

PROPAGATING  BOXES,  HEATING  CASES  AND  COLI?  FRAMES. 

There  are  always  some  plants  that  are  very  difficult  to  start  without  some 
bottom  heat,  and  all  amateur  gardeners  cannot  possess  a  hot  bed.  But  the  heated 
case  affords  to  them  the  greatest  facilities  for  striking  cuttings,  raising  seeds,  and 
bringing  well  established  plants  into  rapid  growth. 

A  home  made  case  may  be  made  in  the  form  of  a  double  cube,  say  twelve 
inches  wide  and  high,  and  eighteen  inches  long.  A  concealed  tank  of  zinc  filled 
with  hot  water,  will  give  out  and  retain  the  heat  from  twelve  to  twenty -four 
hours  without  changing  the  water.  No  lamp  or  extra  heat  need  be  used,  and 
the  cases  are  perfectly  clean  and  unobjectionable,  while  they  can  be  with  a  little 
mechanical  skill,  rendered  very  ornamental  and  agreeable  objects  for  any  parlor 
or  sitting  room. 

It  is  best  that  the  entire  frame  work  be  made  of  wood,  and  the  sides  and  top 
consist  each  of  a  pane  of  glass  fitted  into  the  frame ;  or  in  other  words,  it  is  a  small 
glass  show  case  with  open  bottoms.  One  of  the  sides  may  be  arranged  so  as 
to  slide  out  to  give  greater  ease  in  arranging  the  plant  within  and  for  cleaning 
the  glass.  The  top  may  be  movable,  fastened  by  hinges,  and  lifted  up  one  or  two 
inches  occasionally  for  ventilation.  When  the  plants  are  in  bloom,  the  entire  side 
or  top  can  be  left  open  all  day. 

The  wood  work  may  be  either  painted  or  be  constructed  simply  of  black  wal- 
nut, oak,  and  oiled ;  either  will  look  well. 

In  some  of  our  horticultural  stores  there  are  cases  already  constructed  for  prop- 
agating purposes  which  fill  the  exact  need. 

Figs.  17  and  18  are  manufactured  of  galvanized  iron,  one  being  about  three  feet 


Fig.  17. 

long  and  two  wide,  the  other  one  foot  by  eighteen  inches      A  shallow  boiler  about 


WINDOW  GARDENING. 


the  size  of  the  bottom  is  fitted  in  each  case,  filled  with  water,  and  heated  by  the 
flame  of  either  a  lamp  or  gas  jet  beneath.  The  top  is  of  glass  and  can  be  lifted 
at  any  time  fresh  air  is  needed.  A  thermometer  completes  the  equipment.  It 
is  very  simple  and  successful.  The  heat  can  be  run  up  to  any  desired  point  and 
the  lady  who  uses  it  can  soon  initiate  herself  into  the  mysteries  and  practice 
of  rooting,  cutting  and  propagating  fine  bedding  plants. 

Fig.  19  is  a  propagating  box  made  of  earthen  ware,  with  grooves  in  the  top 
for  a  pane  of  glass  to  slide  up  and  down  with  a  cover.  The  heat  thus  generated 
can  be  retained  for  a  considerable  length  of  time  by  closing  the  glass  top.  They 
are  very  suitable  for  starting  soft  wooded  cuttings  in  sand. 


Fig.  ia 

A  forcing  stand  may  be  erected  like  this  in  Fig. 20.  It  consists  of  a  wrought 
iron  frame  of  ornamental  design  with  two  stories.  In  each  story  there  is  a  row  of 
double  pans,  the  bottom  one  containing  water  which  is  heated  by  a  patent  kerosene 
lamp,  keeping  the  temperature  of  the  inner  pan  about  100°.  In  this  inner  pan 
are  placed  mould,  sand  or  loam,  wherein  the  pots  are  plunged.  The  heat  of  the 
water  is  communicated  directly  through  the  sand  to  the  cutting  or  seeds  which 
will  germinate  in  a  few  days. 

All  cultivators  need  to  know  that  for  propagating 
purposes,  there  is  needed  heat  and  moisture,  and  to 
be  successful  you  need  a  greater  bottom  heat  than  sur- 
face heat,  and  also,  still,  quiet  atmosphere. 

If  this  case  is  used  in  a  room  where  the  tempera- 
ture is  usually  quite  mild,  no  glass  covering  will  be 
needed;  still  if  it  isneeded,  a  case  like  that  described 
in  the  former  parl  of  this  chapter  may  be  constructed 
for  each  shelf.  If  pots  are  used  in  these  little  cases* 
they  should  be  very  small,  not  over  two  inches  in  di 
amcter. 

Such  little  contrivances  as  these  render  it  compara- 
tively easy  for  any  lady  to  raise  her  own  Verbenas, 
Pelaigoniums,  or  other  simple  plants,  and  would  undoubtedly  do  more  to 
please  and  instruct  children  and  visitors,  by  way  of  amusement,  than  the  whole 
apparatus  originally  cost. 


Fig.  20. 


WTND OW  GAR DENTNQ  5 5 

In  spring,  which  is  the  time  that  artificial  heat  will  be  most  required,  the  zinc 
reservoirs  of  your  propagating  boxes  will  need  to  be  filled  with  water,  both  night 
and  morning.  In  cases  like  our  first  mentioned  one,  not  heated  with  the  lamp, 
boiling  water  should  be  used,  and  the  temperature  in  the  closed  case  will  vary 
from  60°  to  75°;  the  silver  sand  as  soon  as  it  becomes  a  little  moist,  heats  the 
soil  in  the  pots,  and  the  heat  is  retained  for  a  long  time,  often  24  hours  after  the 
tank  was  first  filled. 

Another  home  made  case  is  constructed  out  of  an  old  tea  chest ;  cut  it  down 
about  one  third,  then  fit  into  it  a  zinc  pan  4  to  5  inches  in  depth  to  hold  the  wa- 
ter, over  the  top  put  a  large  pane  of  glass,  and  in  such  a  box,  large  numbers  of 
cuttings  may  be  raised-with  much  less  trouble  than  a  hot  bed  causes.  It  can  be  kept 
HI  a  back  room  or  in  the  attic,  and  filled  with  small  pots  of  cuttings  and  seeds. 
The  glass  top  may  be  hinged  on.  But  the  best  designs  are,  however,  thus  illustra- 
ted in  Figs.  17,  18,  and  19. 

Cold  Frames. 

Many  plants  that  have  grown  out  of  doors  all  summer,  and  may  be  needed  for 
blooming  in  the  window  during  the  winter  and  spring,  may  be  safely  housed  in 
cold  frames.  This  is  a  very  desirable  method  for  keeping  a  large  quantity  of 
plants. 

A  frame  may  be  made  very  easily  and  cheap  as  follows  :  Take  a  sheltered  loca- 
tion, protected  from  the  north  wind,  and  well  drained,  dig  down  four  feet  by 
eight — or  four  by  twelve  is  a  convenient  size. 

Insert  at  each  corner  scantling  posts,  rising  six  inches  above  the  surface  in 
front,  and  eighteen  inches  above  at  the  rear;  nail  boards  to  the  inside  of  these  posts, 
leaving  about  six  inches  space  between  them  and  theearth,to  be  filled  with  manure 
or  tan. 

Outside  the  posts  nail  boards  above  the  ground,  leaving  a  space  to  be  filled  up 
with  tan,  etc. 

Cover  the  top  .with  double  sashes.  Fill  in  the  bottom  of  the  pit  with  small 
stones,  or  bits  of  charcoal,  and  throw  in  a  foot  or  more  of  tan  in  which  to  sink 
the  pots.  Coal  ashes  will  do  as  well  as  tan;  they  are  required  to  secure  dryness, 
warmth  and  ventilation. 

When  the  cold,  weather  comes  on,  cover  the  sashes  with  straw  mats  or 
carpeting — and  bank  up  the  pit  with  tan  or  manure — put  a  good  embankment 
about  the  whole  pit. 

Place  the  plants  in  the  pit,  in  the  autumn,  and  let  them  have  as  much  air  as 
possible  in  mild  days,  covering  closely,  in  cold  nights. 

The  chief  care  is  to  give  fresh  air  in  sufficient  quantities,  and  to  protect  in  se- 
vere weather  from  frosts. 

Roses,  Geraniums,  Salvias,  Fuchsias,  Heliotropes,  etc.  can  be  kept  quite  safely  in 
such  a  pit,  and  be  ready  to  force  in  the  windows  or  conservatory  by  March 


56  WINDOW 

When  warm  days  occur  the  sashes  can  be  uncovered,  and  the  sun  allowed  tc 
shine  through  the  glass  on  to  the  plants,  but  until  February  it  is  better  to  keep 
them  in  darkness,  and  not  admit  fresh  air  oftener  than  once  in  two  or  three 
weeks.  Do  it  when  the  air  is  most  genial,  and  raise  the  sashes  only  long  enough 
to  inspect  the  plants,  and  if  very  dry  give  a  little  water. 


VIII. 


WINDOW  POTS,  BOXES,  JARDINIERES,  AND  PLANT  STANDS. 

Glazed  pots  are  not  as  good  to  grow 
plants  in  as  the  real  pottery,  on  account 
of  their  want  of  porosity,  which  is  a 
great  help  in  watering,  evaporation  and 
aeration  ;  likewise  their  saucers  are 
sometimes  fastened  to  them,  and  are 
liable  to  fill  with  earth,  clog  up  the 
outlets,  and  are  not  easily  cleaned. 

The  earthen  pots  are  easily  cleaned 
and  plants  thrive  much  better  in  them, 
than  in  fancy  china  or  glass  ones.  Still 
these  last  are  often  desirable  for  room 
decoration,  and  many  very  handsome 
ones  are  made,  which  can  be  used  by 

simply  setting  the  other  common  pot  in-  Pijr.  21. 

side,  and  if  there  is  any  vacant  space  between,  it  may  be  filled  up  with  moss. 

The  size  of  the  pot  should  be  in  unison  with  the  size  of  the  plant  ;  the  most  con- 
venient ones  to  handle,  may  measure 
from  five  to  seven  or  eight  inches  across 
top.  Yet  if  any  have  extensive  window 
gardens,  they  will  need  all  sizes,  from 
3,  4,  5,  and  6  inches  diameter,  up  to 
eight  inches  —  some  for  propagating  pur- 
poses, others  for  shifting  into,  from 
smaller  sizes.  Saucers  of  course,  of  the 
proper  sizes,  should  fit  each  pot. 

A  new  pot  should  be  placed  in  a  pail 
of  water  to  soak,  and  expel  the  dry  air 
from  the  pores,  and  an  old  pot  should 
be  carefully  washed  both  inside  and 
out  before  use.  Pieces  of  charcoal 
broken  up  fine  should  be  put  into  the 

bottom    of  each    pot  to   the   depth    of  v\s.  22. 

about   two   or    three    inches  ;    less   of  course  in  the  smaller  sized  pots. 


58 


WINDOW  GARDENING. 


As  the  pots  become  filled  with  roots,  the  plants  must  be  shifted  into 
larger,  and  when  these  are  filled,  again  repotted  into  others. 


Fig.  2a  Fig.  24. 

It  is  easy  to  find  when  to  repot  the  plants,  by  running  a  broad  bladed  table 
knife  around  the  inner  edge  of  the  pot,  and  turning  it  bottom  side  upwards  over 
the  hand  ;  the  ball  of  earth  readily  slips  out,  and  the  roots  are  disclosed  to  view. 
If  you  suspect  there  are  worms  in  the  soil,  their  presence  can  be  detected* 
by  the  fact  that  they  soon  come  to  the  surface  to  know  the  cause  of  the  disturb- 
ance, and  then  they  can  be  destroyed. 

The  soil  should  be  frequently  stirred  about  the  surface  of  the  pots,  and  for  this 
purpose  a  good  sized  hair  pin  or  two-tined  fork  are  good  instruments.  The  for- 


Fig.  25.  Fig.  2fi. 

iner  is  best  as  its  prongs  are  so  small,  raking  up  the  earth  without  distuibing 
greatly  the  tiny  rootlets. 

In  potting  or  repotting  it  is  needful  sometimes  to  cut  back  the  plants,  and  when 
it  is  done,  due  deference  must  be  paid  to  their  shape,  thinning  out  the  branches 
so  that  they  will  be  in  good  form,  for  the  beauty  of  the  plant  is  greatly  depend- 
ent upon  this. 


WINDOW    GARDENING 


59 


Figs.  21  &  22  are  very  neat  pots 
..ade  of  pottery  ware  nearly  white, 
glazed  on  the  outside,  and  intended 
to  hold  inside  the  common  pots  of 
earthen  ware.  Most  of  the  florists 
have  them  as  they  are  quite  orna- 
mental and  are  becoming  popular. 
Their  price  is  from  81.50  to  82.50. 

A*n  objection  has  been  raised  to  the 
common  pots,  that  they  soon  become 
dirty  and  covered  with  mould  and 
rust,  and  need  considerable  care  to 
keep  clean.  The  only  remedy  is  con- 
stant scrubbing.  And  it  is  impos- 
sible to  have  a  thoroughly  porous 
well  drained  pot,  without  its  sides 
becoming  in  time  old  and  sour ;  at- 
tempts have  been  made  to  paint  them 
with  ochre,  or  red  whitewash,  but 
it  soon  rubs  off  and  is  disagreeable. 
To  combine  ornament  with  use,  the 
one  must  be  placed  inside  the  other. 

There  is  a  style  of  mountable  flower 
pot,  now  used  somewhat  by  English 
llorists,  made  of  separate  slabs  of 
wood  joined  together  with  flexible 
hinges.  (See  Fig.  23.)  The  advan- 
tages claimed  for  it,  are  that  it  can 
be  taken  to  pieces  and  adjusted,  that 
'plants  can  be  easily  transplanted 
without  disturbing  the  soil  or  injur- 
ing the  roots.  With  small  window 
gardens  it  would  not  be  needed ;  but 
in  the  case  of  very  large  conservatory 
plants,  where  a  diameter  of  two  feet 
is  required  it  might  be  found  useful,  as  the  plant  might  need  examination  to  per- 
fect the  drainage,  or  remove  the  soil  and  replace  with  fresh  compost.  The  wires, 
as  shown  in  the  engraving,  are  moved  down  or  up  for  tightening  or  loosening,  so 
that  any  one  can  make  them.  There  are  several  styles  of  pots,  square,  and  made 
of  prettily  ornamented  pieces  of  wood,  (Figs.  25  &  26,)  so  simple  that  they  need 
no  explanation.  The  same  designs  have  been  copied  in  glazed  ware  with  various 
colors  and  are  accessible  to  any  one  who  will  visit  the  horticultural  stores,  or 
those  places  where  the  most  tasteful  pottery  and  household  ware  is  kept  for  sale. 


Fig.  28. 


WIND 0 11T    GARDENING 


Fig.  29. 


Fig    M. 


WINDOW  GARDENING.  Q\ 

An  exceedingly  ornamental  design  for  a  flower  pot  for  a  drawing  room  is  shown 
in  (Fig.  27,)  made  of  Minton  tile,  the  ground  work  of  which  is  dark  blue  and  the 
flowers  white.  All  such  decorative  pots  impart  a  pleasant  tasteful  look  to  any 
room.  We  would  be  glad  to  have  them  multiplied  and  constantly  improved. 
Fig.  28,  is  of  the  same  material,  but  of  various  shades  of  white,  red  and  green. 

Jardinieres. 

These  are  fanciful,  single  or  double  boxes,  of  more  artistic  construction  than 
the  common  pot,  and  intended  to  be  used  for  decoration  purposes  entirely.  Many 
are  constructed  and  filled  with  entirely  artificial  moss,  and  imitation  plants  with 
highly  colored  leaves,  are  set  therein.  Of  course  little  or  no  interest  is  felt  in  them 
after  they  have  been  placed  in  their  position,  while  if  they  had  been  natural  living 
plants,  the  very  care  they  daily  required  would  have  developed  far  more  love  and 
appreciation  than  the  former;  still  we  would  not  omit  either,  all  do  well  in  their 
proper  place. 


Fig.  33.  '  Fig.  34. 

Figs.  28  to  34,  are  rare  ornaments  of  beauty,  especially  29,  30,  32,  which  are 
exquisite  in  their  rich  coloring  and  material.  They  are  constructed  of  glass 
mosaics,  and  intended  to  contain  pots  of  choice  plants,  hidden  with  moss,  and  thus 
prepared  to  adorn  the  window  of  the  drawing  room  or  library.  The  glass  mosaic 
is  arranged  in  designs  of  richest  colors,  set  into  cement  of  pure  white  color,  and 
the  whole  hardened  and  polished  to  one  glistening  surface.  Some  of  the  designs 
are  imitations  of  snow  crystals,  and  of  course  are  the  perfection  of  art.  The  in- 
terior of  these  pots  is  lined  with  zinc,  and  they  may  at  will  hold  either  plants 
with  earth,  or  be  filled  with  moss  and  hold  cut  flowers.  The  illustrations  are 
taken  from  originals  exhibited  at  one  of  the  Crystal  Palace  exhibitions  in 
London. 

Figs.  31,  33,  &  34,  are  sketches  of  other  designs  of  rustic  stands  and  boxes, 
with  the  Dracaena,  which  is  a  favorite  with  all  fond  of  the  plant  decorations  of 


62 


WINDOW    GARDENING. 


rooms.  No.  34,  is  a  rustic  Tile  Jardinet,  hexagon  shaped 
and  11  to  16  inches  in  diameter.  No.  31,  is  the  samt 
mounted  upon  a  rustic  cedar  wood  stand.  No.  33,  is  a 
china  flower  vase  with  fence  pattern  made  entirely 
round,  and  from  6  to  14  inches  in  diam^er.  No.  35,  is 
a  pretty  little  idea  of  a  sea  shell,  fitted  to  a  rustic  frame; 
the  interior  of  the  shell  is  filled  with  compost  or  moss, 
and  from  it  grows  a  feathery  fern.  No.  30,  is  a  rustic 
wood  basket,  made  by  any  one  with  a  taste  for  mechani- 
cal construction  and  very  simply  put  together.  It  is 
suitable  for  any  house,  and  adapted  to  any  position 
out  doors  or  in  doors.  Will  look  best  if  filled  with 
ferns,  but  when  bulbs  are  in  season,  fill  it  with 
good  selection  of  Hyacinths,  Tulips  or  CroCi»s§s,  ac- 
cording  to  the  fancy  of  the  fair  gardener.  No.  37,  is 
a  rustic  vase  of  circular  outline,  intended  especially  for  indoor  decoration 
They  are  very  cheap;  both  should  be  lined  with  zinc,  or  else  the  presence  of 
the  damp  earth  will  cause  them  to  rot.  When  bulbs  are  past  their  spring  bloom- 
ing, then  take  Ferns  or  Dracaena,  or  any  plant  provided  it  is  not  of  too  great 
height,  and  must  have  an  agreeable  shading  of  color,  with  appropriate  form 
and  contour. 


iR.  3G.  Fig.  37. 

A  large  number  of  vari-colored  floral  pots  and  jardinieres,  made  of  lava,  and 
now  imported  from  Europe,  can  be  found  of  various  prices  from  SI -50  to 
85.00,  in  any  of  our  fancy  china  ware  and  porcelain  stores.  They  are  of  beauti- 
ful finish,  and  usually  very  cheap. 

Some  American  manufacturers  are  now  producing  designs  in  terra  cotta  which  are 


WINDOW   GARDENING. 


63 


pleasing.  Fig.  40,  is  used  both  as  a  hyacinth  or  bulb 
pot,  or  as  a  bouquet  holder,  the  interior  being  pre- 
viously filled  with  sand.  The  sizes  vary  from  twelve 
to  eighteen  inches  high,  and  consist  of  from  three  to 
five  apertures  for  placing  the  bulb.  They  are  usually 
well  drained  beneath. 

Fig.  39,  is  a  rustic  pot  of  about  nine  inches  high, 
resting  upon  a  dolphin  base  six  inches  high.  The  sides 
of  the  pot  are  ornamented  with  a  grape  vine  running 
around,  and  clusters  of  leaves  and  fruit. 

Fig.  38,  is  a  wall  ivy  basket  about  eight  inches  high, 
and  proportionate  height,  intended  to  hold  earth  and 
a  plant  of  Ivy,  which  will  grow  and  clamber  up  either 
the  sides  of  the  room,  or  over  the  door  if  the  pot  is 
hung  near.  Two  pots  of  the  same  design,  might  be 
very  appropriately  hung,  one  on  each  side  of  a  win 
dow  out  doors,  and  the  Ivy  as  it  grew,  be  trained  grace- 
fully over  the  sides  and  top  or  the  front  of  the  house 

Window  Boxes. 

If  the  window  should  happen  to  be  in  a  recess,  the  sills  may  be  occupied  with 
boxes.  Almost  anything  will  do  if  clean.  A  wooden  trough  lined  with  lead  or 
zinc,  may  be  constructed  to  hold  a  considerable  quantity  of  earth,  and  here 
climbing  plants  may  grow  and  root,  and  be  trained  in  profusion  over  the 
entire  window.  The  Cobcea  is  often  used  for  this  purpose,  and  after  it  has 


Fig.  38 


Fig.  39. 


Fig.  40. 


64 


WIXD OW 


grown  enough  to  fill  the  whole  window,  it  may  be  allowed  to  hang  down  in  fes- 
toons, forming  a  natural  and  graceful  screen  in  any  sunny  window.  Climbing 
vines  need  considerable  care  and  examination,  for  they  are  apt  to  harbor  spiders 
and  insects  of  various  descriptions.  Likewise,  they  drop  their  dead  leaves  and 
flowers,  necessitating  constant  cleanliness.  Nothing  is  so  clean  and  satisfactory 
as  the  Ivy.  Everything  in  these  pots  must  be  regularly  watered,  and  like  all 
other  pots,  precaution  must  be  had  as  to  drainage ;  all  troughs  or  boxes  without 
exception  should  be  lined  with  zinc 


Fig.  41. 


'  Fig.  41  is  a  design  of  a  window  box,  constructed  by  an  ordinary  carpenter. 
Two  boards  of  common  timber  eight  inches  wide,  half  an  inch  thick,  and  three 
and  a  half  feet  long,  form  the  side  of  the  box  ;  the  ends  are  twelve  inches  wide 
eight  inches  high,  six  and  a  half  inches  broad.  The  bottom  board  is  twelve 
inches  wide,  one  inch  thick,  three  and  a  half  feet  long,  and  projects  about  an 
inch  beyond  the  side  all  around.  A  tray  or  lining  of  zinc  was  made  by  the  tin- 
man and  fitted  in.  A  piece  of  oil  cloth  with  a  pretty  pattern,  and  some  mosaic  tile 
work  was  obtained  at  the  carpet  score,  and  tacked  carefully  to  the  sides.  Mould- 
ings of  wood  were  nailed  all  round  the  top,  bottom  and  end,  then  all  the  wood 
work  was  stained  by  rubbing  it  over  with  burnt  umber  and  water,  and  after  it 
was  dry,  a  coating  of  varnish  was  put  on  to  finish  it. 

For  filling  such  a  box  there  is  a  great  variety  to  choose  from  ;  at  one  time  you 
may  use  Begonias,  at  another,  Geraniums,  with  variegated  foliage,  such  as  the 
L'elegante.  Then  at  your  pleasure  you  may,  in  cool  weather,  change  to  young 
evergreens,  of  which  Arbor  Vitaes,  twelve  inches  high,  make  the  most  cheerful 
appearance.  During  the  winter  time  if  you  have  it  in  a  reasonably  warm  room, 
you  can  place  several  Dracaenas,  the  D.  terminalis  and  D.  Australis  being 
the  best 


Fig.  42. 

Fig.  42  is  of  plain  tile  or  glazed  earthenware. 

Fig.  43,  is  of  Minton  tile  more  highly  decorated,  and  costing  about  -$15.00. 
The  third  or  Fig.  44,  is  still  more  elegant,  and  represents  it  as  it  would  appear 
filled  with  Bulbs,  Hyacinths,  Crocuses  and  Tulips. 

The  use  of  these  costly  window  tile  boxes  is  becoming  more  general  every 


WINDOW  GARDENING.  Q§ 

year,  and  tradesmen  inform  us  that  the  past  year  alone  the  demand  in  this  coun- 
try for  these  objects  of  taste  has  completely  trebled. 

Boxes  made  of  plain  wood  may  be  ornamented  with  acorns,  as  shown  in  Fig 
45,  a  design  often  used  for  green-houses  or  staircase  windows.  Take  a  mixture 
of  acorn  and  powdered  shells,  cut  all  the  acorns  in  half,  lengthways,  cover  the 
box  with  glue,  then  lay  the  acorns  flat  side  down  along  the  edge  and  bottom 
of  the  sides,  one  after  the  other,  and  in  the  open  space  between,  affix  them  in  any 
fantastic  plan  you  like ;  then  sift  the  powdered  shell  thickly  all  over  the  box 
between  the  acorns,  and  it  will  soon  dry.  If  you  choose,  you  can  vary  the 


Pig.  43. 

acorns  with  cone  seeds,  and  red  berries  cut  in  half.  Another  style,  Fig.  46, 
is  made  in  a  similar  way,  excepting  orny  that  pine  cones  arts  used  in  place  of 
acorns,  and  the  edges  of  the  box  and  its  ends,  and'  supports  at  bottom,  are  con- 
structed of  rustic  cedar  wood.  This  pot  is  filled  with  a  fine  collection  of  Bulbs, 
Hyacinths,  Narcissus,  Jonquils,  Tulips,  Crocuses,  Snow  Drop  and  Scillas,  length 
about  three  feet,  and  width  about  eight  inches. 

There  are  other  very  pretty  rustic  monies  of  construction.  The  outside  of 
home  made  boxes,  may  also  be  ornamented  with  white  and  gray  lichens,  wet  in 
water  to  make  them  pliable,  then  glued  on,  or  fastened  securely  with  thread  wire, 
attaching  the  wire  to  Mnall  brad  nails  on  the  inside  and  outer  edge  of  the  box. 


Fig.  44. 

When  dry  it  will  have  a  pleasing  appearance.  Sections  of  bark  may  also  be  used 
to  cover  the  sides,  or  wood  mosaic  introduced  ;  take  the  split  half  of  small  sticks 
of  spruce,  maple,  oak  and  birch,  arrange  them  in  alternate  diamonds,  oval  and 
square,  varying  the  colors  with  an  artistic  eye,  and  fastening  the  cleft  sticks 
with  small  brads,  which  will  not  be  perceptible.  When  finished,  cover  with  a 
coat  of  varnish. 

Gum  shellac,  dissolved  in  turpentine,  or  common  furniture  polish  may  be  used 
foi  varnishing.     Pine  cones  are  favorites  in  these  box  decorations,  and  sometimes 

5 


66 


WINDOW  GARDENING. 


are  used  either  whole  or  are  pulled  to  bits  and  nailed  in  regular  rows  along  the 
boards 

The  preparation  of  these  boxes  for  plants  must  be  good  ;  place,  first  a  layer  of 
finely  powdered  charcoal  an  inch  in  thickness  over  the  bottom.  It  acts  not  only 
as  a  preventive  against  mould,  but  also  as  a  fertilizer,  enriching  the  soil  Then 
select  your  compost,  which  has  been  previously  described,  composed  of  rich  loam, 
sand  and  forest  leaf  mould,  and  decayed  barn-yard  manure,  and  fill  up  to  the 
brim. 

If  you  are  growing  bulbs  leave  out  all  manures,  and  use  more  leaf  mould ;  see 
that  the  bottom  of  the  box  has  means  of  drainage  by  a  hole,  into  a  saucer  or 
dish  to  receive  surplus  water. 


Fig.  45. 

In  arranging  your  plants  give  due  heed  to  height  and  coloring.  The  flowers 
which  grow  the  tallest  must  have  the  central  position,  and  the  dwarfs  occupy  the 
edges  and  corners.  For  drooping  vines  select  the  Money-wort,  it  grows  freely, 
and  its  bright  yellow  flowers  are  very  attractive.  The  Partridge  Vine,  which 
grows  so  plentifully  in  all  the  woodlands,  is  also  desirable,  its  coral  red  berries 
adding  greatly  to  its  beauty.  The  variegated  and  green  "  Coliseum  Ivy,"  is 


Fig.  46. 

good  for  this  purpose.  German  and  English  Ivies  are  very  valuable,  growing 
with  great  rapidity,  the  former  often  two  or  three  inches  a  day.  The  Convol- 
vulus possesses  bright  green  foliage  and  exquisite  flowers ;  it  is  always  a  favorite 
in  window  gardening. 

The  Cranberry  Vine  has  been  overlooked,  and  deserves  especial  recommenda- 
tion, both  for  window  boxes  and  hanging  baskets.     Its  prettily  cut  foliage,  pure 


WINDOW  GARDENING.  Q*J 

white  flowers,  and  rich  scarlet  berries,  make  it  very  ornamental ;  it  is  easily  ob- 
tainable by  any  one. 

For  a  good  selection  to  fill  one  box  for  winter  blooming,  we  would  proceed  as 
follows : 

Place  in  the  centre  a  winter  blooming  Fuchsia,  either  Speciosa  with  its  pink 
waxen  petals,  and  brilliant  crimson  corolla,  which  will  bloom  ten  months  in  the 
year,  or  Serratifolia,  with  its  corolla  and  petals  of  two  shades  of  crimson. 

Next  place  on  each  side  the  Lady  Outturn,  a  variegated  Geranium,  and  the 
United  Italy,  with  its  leaves  edged  with  silver.  Both  of  these  plants  give  scar- 
let flowers,  but  as  they  are  grown  principally  for  their  leaves,  you  will  nip  off 
all  buds.  Bouuardia  Elegans,  with  its  coral,  trumpet-shaped  flowers,  should 
come  next ;  on  the  other  side,  a  pink  Monthly  Carnation,  with  its  rich  spicy 
bloom. 

If  the  proportions  of  the  box  will  admit,  we  would  also  plant  Tom  Thumb 
Geraniums,  white  and  scarlet.  Then  at  the  four  corners,  add  in  the  corners 
some  of  the  different  varieties  of  the  Chinese  Primroses,  which  bloom  almost 
ceaselessly,  sometimes  eleven  months  in  the  twelve ;  then  bring  in  an  Alternan- 
thera,  with  its  brightly  veined  lance-shaped  leaves,  and  a  variegated  Sweet  Alyssum 
with  its  white  cluster  of  minute  flowers.  Bulbs  of  the  Due  Van  Thol  Tulips,  or 
Crocuses  or  Hyacinths,  may  be  added,  taking  care  to  sprinkle  the  holes  made 
for  their  reception  with  sand,  and  to  cover  them  with  it.  Shroud  them  in  fresh 
green  moss,  so  that  the  leaf  buds  may  not  start  before  they  have  taken  deep 
root,  which  will  enable  them  to  support  and  nourish  the  gorgeous  flowers  which 
lie  embedded  in  their  bosoms.  Thus  shaded,  all  will  grow,  and  soon  delight  you 
with  their  fragrance. 

One  great  advantage  of  these  window  boxes  consists  in  the  ease  with  which  they 
are  watered  and  cared  for ;  there  is  no  shifting  of  pots,  or  other  manipulations. 
With  a  good  moist  temperature,  and  protection  from  frost  at  night,  these  box 
gardens  will  be  a  constant  succession  of  bloom  from  early  winter  to  leafy  spring. 

If  proper  fastenings  are  provided,  these  boxes  may  be  placed  out  doors,  just  on 
the  window  sill,  or  may  have  temporary  staging  erected  for  the  purpose,  and 
there  be  tended  and  sprinkled  without  fear  of  damage  to  either  window  or  furni- 
ture. Here,  in  the  open  air  and  balmy  days  of  spring  and  summer,  can  be  grown 
Verbenas,  Heliotropes,  Fever  Fews,  Geraniums  and  trailing  vines,  like  Trades- 
cantia,  Moneywort,  &c.,  and  there  will  always  be  flowers  for  a  bouquet  or  a  but- 
ton-hole. 

In  an  eastern  or  north-eastern  window,  Fuchsias,  Mignonette  and  Pansiest 
which  shun  the  heat,  can  be  grown  to  advantage. 

Plant  Stands. 

Here  again  we  meet  with  an  endless  variety  of  designs  and  forms  of  construc- 
tion. Every  conceivable  form  of  taste,  has  been  devised  and  executed,  and  we 
are  at  no  lack  of  convenience,  but  rather  in  a  quandary,  what  to  chose  from  so 
many  things  that  are  so  good. 


68 


WINDOW    GARDENING. 


Fig.  47.— Design  for  Plaut  Stand. 


WINDOW    GARDENING  Q$ 

Fig.  49  is  a  vcr}^  pretty  little  flower  basket,  made  of  wire  work,  painted  green. 
It  is  supported  underneath  by  a  frame  work  of  wood,  either  oak  or  pine,  neatly 
decorated,  and  having  castors  attached  by  the  legs,  for  ready  removal. 

A  zinc  tray  of  perhaps  four  inches  depth,  is  fitted  inside  the  wire,  which  holds 
all  the  earth  and  water,  (which  all  other  baskets  of  this  construction  should  have.) 
A  small  aperture  for  the  withdrawal  of  the  water,  is  fitted  with  a  small  stop 
cock,  which  should  be  hidden  from  sight.  The  plants  kept  in  here,  are  to  bB 
packed  in  moss  and  will,  with  occasional  watering,  keep  fresh  and  green  upon 
'the  surface. 


Fig.  48. 

Figs.  50  and  51  are  simple  stands  to  be  used  for  the  same  purpose,  or  can  be 
adapted  to  the  keeping  of  cut  flowers.  The  top  of  No.  51,  is  covered  with  a 
small  movable  brass  wire  grating,  the  meshes  being  half  an  inch  square,  to  sup- 
port the  flowers,  and  keep  them  in  an  upright  position. 

Fig.  50  is  more  convenient  for  preserving  small  plants,  just  in  bloom,  packed 
in  with  moss.  This  is,  also,  covered  with  wire  work  of  brass. 

Fig.  52  is  a  plant  table,  made  of  any  style  of  wood,  the  heavier  the  better. 
It  is  of  considerable  depth,  and  will  hold  a  large  quantity  of  earth,  is  also  lined 


WINDOW  GARDENING. 


with  zinc  or  copper,  and  provided  with  a  waste  pipe.  Around  the  top  is  a  has 
ket  work  of  brass,  usually  four  to  six  inches  in  depth.  The  pots  placed  inside 
are  supposed  to  be  deep  enough  to  reach  only  to  the  lower  edge  of  the  brass  work, 
and  covered  with  moss.  Cut  flowers,  Dahlias,  Pinks  and  Carnations,  may  be 
placed  in  here,  half  of  the  box  having  previously  been  filled  with  moss,  and 


.  49.  Fig.  50. 

the  rest  with  sand,  into  which  their  stems  are  pressed.     If  the  flowers  are  taste 
fully  arranged  according  to  harmony  of  colors,  they  will  give  a  pretty  effect,  and 
the  flowers  will  last  several  days. 

If  it  is  possible,  it  will  be  well  to  provide  all  stands  used  for  cut  flowers,  with 
glass  shades  which  can  be  removed  during  the  day  time,  but  at  nightfall  be  placed 
over  them,  both  to  secure  from  too  cool  temperature,  and  to  protect  against  dust 
which  comes  from  the  morning's  sweepings.  Flowers  will  also  keep  fresh  longer 
if  preserved  in  moistened  sand,  than  if  kept  in  water  alone. 


Fig.  51.  Fig.  52. 

Fig.  48  is  a  plant  stand  for  household  use  and  ornament  of  more  than  cus- 
tomary spaciousness.  It  is  constructed  either  in  a  full  circular  form  or  semi-circle 
to  suit  the  fancy,  and  will  usually  fit  into  the  recess  of  any  bow-window.  It  is 
built  of  a  wire  frame,  principally  with  wooden  legs  and  supports.  Has  the  usual 
zinc  tray  inside,  well  filled  with  growing  plants.  Its  size  is  about  four  and  a 


WINDOW  GARDENING 


Fig.  55. 


Fi«.  57 


72 


WINDOW  GARDENING. 


half  feet  in  diameter,  and  stands  two  and  a  half  feet  from  the  floor.      The  illus- 
tration represents  a  gi  -t  yariety  of  plants  within,  fully  50  varieties,  from  Roses 


Fig.  58. 


Fig.  59. 


Fig.  60. 

and  Fuchsias,  to  Ferns,  Colons,  Bulbs  and  Primulas 
of  floral  treasures. 


Fig.  61. 

It   is  a  happy  gathering 


WINDOW  GARDENING 


73 


Figs.  60  and  61  are  two  exquisite  flower  stands,  very  suitable  for  setting 
in  the  parlor  window,  just  under  the  drooping  lace  curtains. 

Fig.  61  is  constructed  of  iron,  but 
lias  a  basin  above  filled  with  sand,  in 
which  may  be  grown  either  bulb  or 
cut  flowers,  placed  in  moist  sand. 

Fig.  CO  is  a  lovely  basket  of  rustic 
work,  principally  of  the  same  ma- 
terial as  that  from  which  our  cane 
chairs  are  constructed.  It  is  filled 
with  ferns,  drooping  plants,  Sjnilax, 
and  has  a  great  variety  of  other 
plants  too  numerous  to  mention  in 
detail.  Such  a  basket  can  be  easily 
obtained  or  constructed  at  any  furni- 
ture store,  and  filled  by  any  florist. 

Fig.  C2  is  of  Terra  Cotta,  delicately 
moulded  in  the  form  of  a  vase  rather 
than  a  plant  stand,  and  filled  with  a 
profusion  of  charming  plants  from 
Tulip  to  Achyranthus,  and  Snow 
Drop  to  Fuchsia. 

Every  one  who  wishes  to  learn  the 
best  plants  for  such  purposes  will  find 
full  descriptions  in  Part  Two. 

Figs.  53  to  59  need  little  explana- 
tion. Every  one  has  necessity  for 
some  plant  stands  for  the  pots  before 

Fj<r  62  the  window.  All  these  designs  are 

Constructed  of  iron  or  made  of  wire  and  in  countless  patterns  and  devices.  The 
cost  is  but  very  moderate, ranging  from  85.00  to  §25.00.  All  are  easily  movable 
and  light. 


Pig.  63. 


74 


WINDOW   GARDENING. 
A 


Fig.  64. 


WINDOW    QARDENINO. 


75 


Oruauitiiital  Parlor  Stand. 


IX. 

CONSERVATORIES  AND  GREENHOUSES. 

These  are  costly  and  mainly  afforded  only  by  the  wealthy.  As  an  ornament  of 
architectural  value,  no  villa  is  complete  without  them,  and  even  the  owner  of 
the  city  mansion  does  not  seem  well  satisfied  till  he  has  added  one  of  these 
elegancies  to  assist  the  look  and  feeling  of  taste. 

Usually  they  are  quite  costly,  and  both  interior  and  exterior  are  highly  decora- 
ted, and  as  objects  of  effect  on  the  lawn,  or  among  the  shrubbery,  they  are  worth 
all  their  value  in  their  embellishment  of  rural  art. 

Still,  even  the  person  of  moderate  purse,  may  have  one  not  very  showy,  yet 
very  convenient,  and  well  adapted  to  this  purpose,  viz:  The  keeping  of  plants  in 
larger  quantities  than  the  ordinary  space  of  the  window,  or  parlor  garden,  and 
also  in  a  better  and  more  successful  atmosphere  than  that  of  the  living  room. 

It  would  take  a  volume  alone  to  point  out  all  technical  details  necessary  to 
any  one  about  to  build  one.  For  an  extensive  design,  the  advice  of  a  horticul- 
tural architect  is  indispensable,  but  for  home  purposes,  a  design  such  as  any  car- 
penter can  erect  is  seen  in  one  of  our  succeeding  plans. 

Conservatories  and  green-houses  are  also  somewhat  distinct  in  their  uses. 
The  one  is  mainly  devoted  to  ornamental  purposes,  and  the  exhibition  of 
plants  in  full  beauty  of  growth  and  bloom,  while  in  the  humbler  green-house, 
propagating  boxes  are  the  chief  furniture  used  by  the  gardener,  for  the  produc- 
tion and  forcing  of  his  young  plants.  Still  either  term  is  appropriate,  and  the 
term  greenhouse  includes  both. 

Costly  conservatories  are  built  of  iron  and  glass,  more  moderate  ones  of  wood 
and  glass.     In  building  them,  due  heed  must  be  given  to  ventilation.     If  in  small 
home  conservatories,  they  are  not  well  heated,  it  would  be  well  to  have  heavy  out 
side  shutters,  so  as  to  be  rolled  down  at  night,  or  double  window  panes  of  glass- 
usually  a   flue    from   the  furnace  which   warms  the  house    will,    in    n.ost  lati 
tudes,  give  sufficient  warmth,  provided  the  furnace  will  keep  up  a  uniform  degree 
all  night.     This,  after  all,  is  not  regular  in  large  conservatories ;  and    then  the 
only  satisfactory  mode  of  heating  is  by  pipes  of  hot  water  from  a  furnace  speci 
ally  constructed  for  the  purpose. 


78 


WINDOW  GARDENING. 


If  there  is  danger  of  frost,  and  it  is  feared  that  the  heating  arrangements  are 
not  sufficient,  turn  all  the  heat  of  the  furnace  into  the  conservatory.  Yet  there 
is  on  the  other  hand  considerable  trouble  from  having  too  much  heat  or  light  in 
the  evening,  especially  if  the  conservatory  is  entered  immediately  from  the  draw- 
ing room. 

Houses  that  are  warmed  by  water  pipes,  branches  of  which  are  allowed  to  run 
through  the  conservatory,  not  only  keep  up  a  more  steady  heat,  but  afford  con- 
siderable moisture  to  the  atmosphere,  and  are  of  decided  advantage. 

Every  Autumn,  apply  a  coat  of  paint,  not  only  to  render  it  fresh  and  clear,  but 
to  fill  up  all  hiding  places  for  insects,  and  clear  them  out  if  perchance  they  have 
obtained  possession,  and  in  September  early,  put  the  pots  and  plants  in  theij 
proper  places.  It  is  not  desirable  that  they  should  remain  out  later  than  that. 


Fig.  66.  Kip.  67.  Fig.  68.  Fig.  69. 

For  hanging  pots  up  against  the  side  of  the  house  or  wall,  the  floreteen  is  a  con- 
venient little  utensil,  constructed  of  adouble  iron  hoop,  bent  in  the  middle  at  an 
angle  of  90°  and  reversible.  Cost  is  very  trifling  and  made  by  any  blacksmith. 

When  filling  your  house  with  plants,  clean  the  pots  well,  and  turn  out  the  balls 
of  earth  to  see  that  the  roots  have  sufficient  room,  and  are  in  a  healthy  state. 

It  is  well,  also,  to  scrape  away  the  surface  soil,  and  supply  fresh  compost. 

Give  your  plants  plenty  of  room,  not  crowding  too  thickly,  allowing  free  circu- 
lation of  the  air,  for  then  it  is  easier  to  keep  them  perfectly  clean  and  healthy. 

Heliotropes,  Vrerbenas,  Geraniums,  and  indeed  all  herbaceous  plants  should  be 
placed  as  near  the  glass  as  possible,  as  they  require  much  sunlight,  while  varie- 
gated leaved  plants  Mignionette,  Camellias,  Primulas,  <fcc.,  will  not  flourish  luxuri- 
antly, if  the  hot  sun  shines  on  them  at  noon  day. 

Fig.  70  is  a  design  of  a  small  home  conservatory  attached  to  the  side  of  a  vil- 
lage residence  and  entered  from  the  parlor.  Us  length  is  about  eighteen  feet  and 
width  twelve  to  fifteen,  affording  all  necessary  room  for  a  good  home  plant  con- 
servatory. 

Such  a  house  is  heated  either  by  a  flue  from  the  furnace,  supposed  to  be  placed 
in  the  basement  of  the  house,  or  there  may  be  a  stove  placed  in  depression  of 
the  floor  at  one  end  of  the  conservator}', and  with  pipes  running  from  a  drum 
length  way  each  side  to  the  other  end,  and  returning  to  it  again,  may  heat  the  room 
sufficiently;  but  there  would  be  nothing  to  prevent  a  low  temperature  at  night, 
unless  some  one  could  see  that  the  fire  was  kept  steadily  burning.  The  most 


WINDOW  GARDENING. 


79 


steady  heat  would  come  from  the  flue  of  the  same  furnace  which  heats  the  house. 
There  aie  stands  running  around  each  side  of  the  conservatory  and  a  large 
square  one  in  the  middle. 

The  cost  made  by  any  carpenter,  if  constructed  of  wood,  will  be  from  $250  to 
$400,  and  if  he  has  taste  may  be  richly  decorated  and  painted  for  that  sum.  A 
good  conservatory  could  not  well  be  built  for  a  less  price. 

For  a  more  elegant  design  still,  we  commend  Fig.  No.  65  of  a  beautiful  form 
of  architecture,  lofty  enough  to  admit  of  pa'ms  or  tall  ferns;  large  enough  for 
abundance  of  fresh  air,  not  close  or  stifling,  and  of  a  character  highly  ornamental 
for  any  situation.  It  is  constructed  of  iron,  yet  nothing  prevents  it  from  being 
made  of  wood.  The  glass  is  in  long  lengths  corresponding  to  the  general  style 
of  construction.  Ventilators  in  the  top  are  easily  opened  or  closed  by  pulleys. 


Fig.  70.— A  Village  House  with  Small  Conservatory. 

There  is  a  door  for  entering  to  the  drawing  room,  also,  one  opening  upon  the 
lawn,  with  ornamental  flower  beds  laid  out  along  its  side;  it  forms  a  design  of 
rare  and  pleasing  taste. 

For  out  door  plant  houses  separated  from  the  dwelling  we  show  designs  of  two 
styles. 

Fig.  73  is  still  more  artistic  than  the  other,  elevated  upon  a  parterre  embank 
ment  and  surrounded  with  evidences  of  garden  embellishments.     This,  also,  is  of 


80 


W1XDOW   GARDENING. 


iron,  still  it  may  be  constructed  of  wood ;  is  about  twenty  feet  wide  and 
from  forty  to  fifty  feet  long;  cost  not  less  than  $5,000.  Most  of  the  green 
houses  in  this  country  are  now  built  upon  the  plan  of  low  curved  roofs,  which 
allord  great  economy  of  space  and  heat,  yet  we  believe  variety  and  taste  will 
admit  the  use  of  other  styles.  Such  a  one  as  this  is  a  novelty  in  this  country. 


Fig.  71. — Interior  of  the  Government  Conservatory  at  Washington,  D.  C. 

Rarely  have  we  seen  any  thing  like  it,  presenting  as  it  does  a  decided  look  oJ 
.richness  and  elegance  in  the  rural  grounds  of  any  wealthy  villa  proprietor.  It  is 
Worth  adoption. 


WINDOW  GARDENING 


81 


Fig.  72  is  intended  purely  for  ornamental  purposes  suitable  for  the  grounds  of 
those  of  humbler  means  than  they  who  can  afford  such  rich  designs  as  our  last. 

It  is  a  straight  roofed  span  conservatory  with  cast  iron  fronts;  sides  about  four 
feet  six  inches  high  with  top  and  bottom  ventilation,  glazed  with  twenty-six  ounce 
sheet  glass,  enamel  painted  throughout  with  ornamental  finish,  crestings,  &c. 
This  style  of  conservatory  is  set  upon  a  foundation  of  white  stone  or  granite, 
which  gives  a  fine  contrast  with  the  green  and  shrubbery. 

In  general  the  handsomest,  lightest,  strongest  and  most  serviceable  conservato- 
ries are  constructed  of  iron  frames,  yet  few  or  none  are  made  in  this  country  and  no 
one  offers  them  as  a  specialty.  We  find  nearly  all  the  best  styles  and  designs 
of  this  character  offered  only  by  English  horticultural  manufacturers. 

In  England,  nearly  every  one  has  either  its  Window  Garden  or  its  green  house, 
and  scarcely  any  family  of  intelligence  but  knows  something  of  culture  and  prop- 
agation of  indoor  plants. 


Fig.  72.— A  Small  Greenhouse. 

Here  we  love  these  delicate  treasures  dearly  and  our  taste  is  rapidly  developing 
in  this  branch  of  rural  pleasures,  yet  the  green  house  is  still  to  many  a  mystery, 
and  seems  an  enormous  expense.  If  good  and  suitable  designs  could  be  built 
for  $100  to  §500,  their  number  would  be  quadrupled  every  year,  and  their 
general  use  be  considered  a  desirable  fashion. 

An  important  consideration  in  the  management  of  greenhouses  is  an  abundance 
of  light.  It  is  quite  essential  that  the  conservatory  should  be  placed  on  the 
sunny  side  of  the  house,  and  that  its  windows  or  door  should  open  into  the  parlor 
or  dining-room,  and,  if  possible,  avoid  planting  trees  too  near  to  cover  it  with 
their  shade.  If  the  location  is  southwestern  or  northerly,  much  more  heat 
will  be  required  ;  and  both  for  economy  and  enjoyment,  only  one  position  is 

desirable,  and  that  is  southerly. 

6 


82 


WIND OW   GARD EX1XG - 


WINDOW   GARDENING.  83 

Ventilation  snould  be  arranged  so  that  the  air  will  circulate  over  the  tops  of 
plants,  and  not  upon  the  surface  of  the  pots. 

The  slope  of  the  roof  should  be  at  an  angle  of  45°,  as  this  has  been  proved  to  af- 
ford the  greatest  amount  of  heat  from  the  sun's  rays. 

A  low  staging  upon  which  the  pots  are  to  be  placed,  should  run  all  around  the 
conservatory,  and  if  it  joins  the  wall,  climbing  vines  may  be  planted  which  will 
clamber  over  it,  or  brackets  may  be  put  up,  which  will  hold  pots  of  drooping 
plants.  If  tastefully  constructed,  the  floor  should  be  made  of  tiles  with  pretty 
patterns,  and  even  various  plant  boxes  may  be  made  of  them. 

The  plants  would  flourish  better  if  they  were  sunk  in  beds  of  sand,  mould  or 
moss,  instead  of  separate  pots  upon  a  staging. 

A  thermometer  is  needed  in  every  green-house,  in  order  to  regulate  the  tem- 
perature, and  it  should  hang  where  it  cannot  be  affected  by  the  rays  of  the  suiu 
The  temperature  should  not  exceed  66°  by  day,  nor  fall  below  45°  at  night. 

Watering. — Water  the  plants  as  soon  as  the  ball  of  roots  begins  to  dry.  This 
will  be  visible  on  the  surface,  or  by  knocking  against  the  pot.  If  a  full,  deep 
sound  is  heard,  there  is  sufficient  water;  if  a  clear,  hollow  sound,  water  is 
needed.  All  plants  of  a  rapid  growth,  luxuriant  leaves,  and  masses  of  flow- 
ers, require  more  watering  than  others  of  a  delicate  habit.  Ferns  and  tropical 
plants  must  have  plenty  of  water;  succulent  plants  require  less  water. 

Watering  may  be  done  by  a  sprinkler  or  syringe,  and  care  must  be  taken  to 
give  water  to  the  soil  and  roots,  as  well  as  to  the  leaves,  which,  if  watered  from 
overhead,  may  often  shed  it  and  prevent  any  from  reaching  the  pots. 

Apply  the  water  either  at  night,  or  so  early  in  the  morning  that  the  heat  of  the 
sun  will  not  injure  the  plants.  Let  the  water  stand  or  drip  awhile  before  wip- 
ing up,  permitting  the  moisture  to  permeate  the  atmosphere  ;  after  two  or  three 
hours  the  remaining  water  can  be  cleared  away. 

Steps  or  a  ladder  are  necessary  also,  to  use  in  removing  plants  from  the  stag- 
ing, and  also  to  assist  in  watering.  Standing  upon  them  a  person  with  a  water- 
ing pot  can  produce  a  miniature  rain,  which  will  tend  to  keep  away  all  insects, 
and  also  wash  the  leaves  effectually. 

Once  a  week  give  in  your  waterings  a  stimulant  such  as  has  been  mentioned  in 
previous  chapters. 

The  plants  should  also  be  frequently  turned  around  so  as  to  keep  them  in  good 
shape,  and  by  frequent  changing  of  position  all  have  a  chance  at  the  best  places. 

All  the  directions  minutely  given  in  former  chapters  as  to  culture,  propagation, 
potting,  repotting,  will  apply  as  well  to  conservatories  as  to  ordinary  window 
gardening. 

Plants. 

For  the  greater  convenience  and  accommodation  of  private  citizens,  lovers  of 
plants,  or,  perhaps,  not  well  instructed  gardeners,  we  give  a  list  of  decorative 
plants  for  greenhouses  and  conservatories,  which  are  distinguished  by  masses  of 
flowers,  fine  leaves,  interesting  habits,  and  easy  cultivation.  We  do  not  use  for 


84  WINDOW  GARDENING. 

this  list  any  catalogues  of  nurserymen,  nor  do  we  make  a  collection  from  books 
or  advertisements.  We  have  carefully  selected  only  such  plants  as  are  recom- 
mended by  long  experience  in  cultivating  plants,  and  thorough  botanical  knowl- 
edge. Every  plant  which  this  list  contains  is  for  sale  in  this  country. 

Avoid  an  unfit  composition  of  every  possible  or  heterogeneous  plants  ;  the 
effect  will  be  very  poor.  For  instance,  tropical  plants  do  not  mix  well  with 
plants  taken  from  colder  climates.  Plants  with  expanded  branches  or  like  hab- 
its, are  suitable  mainly  for  standards,  for  vases,  stands,  etc. 

Plants  of  a  fine  and  graceful  habit  should  have  a  free  and  light  position.  Put 
Camellias,  Azaleas,  Eododendrons,  Magnolia  grandiflora,  Viburnum  tinus,  Eu- 
genia australis,  etc.,  as  soon  as  they  leave  off  blooming  in  the  background,  and 
move  in  the  front  row  the  following :  Acacias,  Polygala,  Metrosideros,  Leptos- 
permum,  Franciscea,  Melaleuca,  Edwardsia  microphylla,  Diosma,  and  Erica. 

For  groups  of  plants  which  have  a  tropical  character,  place  so  that  they 
may  show  well:  Begonia,  Ferns,  Lycopodia,  Amaryllis,  Eucharis,  Pepero- 
viias,  besides  all  plants  with  variegated  leaves  or  thick  foliage.  For  the 
background  may  be  mentioned:  Ficus  elastica,  Cooperi  australis,  Gardenia; 
Fortuni,  Musa,  Heliconia,  Bambusa,  Eugenia  lambos,  Justicia  carnea,  cris- 
tata,  Porteana,  speciosa,  etc.  He  who  prefers  succulent  plants,  and  intends  to 
keep  his  greenhouse  filled  with  them,  will  not  have  much  difficulty  in  arranging 
them,  as  they  can  be  easily  put. in  little  groups,  according  to  size  and  habit. 

I.  LIST  OF  PLANTS  FOR  A  SMALL  CONSERVATORY,  GREENHOUSE,  OR  FLOWER- 
PARLOR,  which  is  frequently  visited  by  the  family  or  visitors.  The  temperature  ot 
the  house  is  to  be  temperate  at  night ;  in  the  day  time  thermometer  may  go  up  a 
little  higher,  as  this  will  be  the  case  when  the  sun  is  out.  The  situation  of  the 
greenhouse  may  be  in  a  southern,  eastern,  or  western  direction. 

a.  PLANTS  FOR  STANDARDS,  CENTRE  OF  GROUPS,  STANDS,  COLUMNS,  ETC.  : 

Araucaria  excelsa,  imbricata,  Brasiliensis ;  Aralia  leptophylla,  Sieboldii 
papyrifera  ;  Chamarops  excelsa,  humilis,  tomentosa,  and  stauracantha. 

Rhapis  flabelliformis  ;  Sabal  minor,  Seaforthia  elegans,  Chamcedorea  lunata, 
Schiedeana,  gracilis,  desmoncoides :  Latania  borbonica ;  Coryplia  australis : 
Drac&na  draco,  Brasiliensis,  terminal-is,  ferrea,  Cooperi,  stricta,  rubra,  congesta, 
australis,  indivisa,  and  Veitcliii  ;  Yucca  gloriosa,  aloifolia  fol.  var,  flaccida,  and 
quadricolor;  Uhdea  pinnatifida,  Senecio  Giesbrechtii,  Melianthus  major;  Sola- 
num  Warscewitzii;  Alocasia  cucullata,  odorata,  (arfcorea,)  macrorrhiza  fol.  vat 
Caladium  cupreum,  (porphyroneurum, )  pictum. 

b.  PLANTS  FOR  DECORATION  IN  GENERAL  : 

Azalea  indica,  best  new  varieties  ;  Camelias,  best  imbricate  varieties ;  Rhodo- 
dendra,  arborea,  and  hybrida  ;  Acalyplia  tricolor;  Andromeda  floribunda : 
Trimalium  fragrans  ;  Leucopogon  Cunninghami  ;  Allamanda  neriifolia  ;  Aph 
elandra  aurantiaca^  pulcherrima  carnea,  superba,  Porteana  cristata,  Leopoldii  ; 
Justicia  speciosa  ;  Ruellia  varians  ;  Eranthemum  pulclidlum,  Cooperi,  tubercu 


WINDOW  GARDENING.  g5 

latum  ;  Ardisia  crenulata,  Brexia  Madagascariensis ,  chrysophylla,  serrata  ; 
Brugmansia  sanguinea,  floribunda;  Comaclinium  ianthinum;  Croton  pictum, 
variegatum;  Cyperus  alternifoliusf  Panicum  plicatum,  fol.  var.;  Curculigo 
recurvata;  Aspidistra  lurida,  fol.  var.  (Plectogynce)  ;  Eucharis  Candida;  Var- 
lota  purpurea;  Amaryllis  vittata  varietas;  Ficus  elastica,  Cooperi  and  austra- 
lis;  Franciscea  latifolia,  eximia,  hydrangaformis;  Maranta,  sanguinea,  ze- 
brina,  vittata;  Gardenia  citriodora,  radicans,  Fortuni  and  florida  grandi- 
flora;  Mahernia  odorata;  Hibiscus  rosa  Sinensis  var.,  double  kinds,  Cooperi, 
splendens;  Inga  pulcherrima;  Edwardsia  microphylla;  Jasminum  Sambac, 
Duchesse  d' Orleans,  gracile;  Lasiandra,  splendens,  macrantha;  PsidiumCatt- 
leyanum;  Magnolia  fuscata;  Olea  fragrans,  ilicifolia;  Myoporum  parvifolium, 
crystallinum;  Eriostemon  buxifolius,  scabrum,  neriifolium,  intermedium; 
Medinilla  magniflca;  Meyenia  erecta;  Plumbago  ccerulea;  Calla  ^Ethiopica 
minor ;  Tecoma  Capensis  ;  Solanum  capsicum,  fol.  var. ;  Vinca  rosea  and 
rosea  alba;  Abutilon  Thompsonii,  venosum  floribundum,  vexillarum,  fol.  var.; 
Acacia  armata,  paradoxa,  dealbata,  lophanta,  pulchella  magna,  floribunda,  mela- 
noxylon,  glaucescens,  mollisssima,  lineata  verticillata,  vestita;  Agapanthus  um- 
bellatus;  Bambusa  Fortunei  var  ;  Bouvardia  leiantha,  splendens,  jasminoides; 
Cassia  floribunda;  Centaur ea  candidissima,  plumosa,  gymnocarpa;  Cestrum 
aurantiacum;  lochroma  tubulosa,  Warcsewitzii;  Linum  trigynum;  Cliorozema 
ilicifolia,  varia;  Citrus  sinensis,  myrtifolius,  aurantium,  nobilis  (Mandarin;; 
Clethra  arborea;  Spar mannia  Africana;  Clivia  nobilis;  Cyclamen  persicum, 
Coum,repandum;  Cytisus  Atleyamus,  racemosus;  Genista  canariensis;  Daphne 
indica  rubra;  Diosma  alba,  ambigua,  ciliata;  Echeveria  secunda  glauca,  metal- 
lica  grandiflora,  sanguinea,  racemosa,  gibbiflora;  Cotyledon  cristatum,  orbicu 
lare,  rhomboideum:  Crassula  coccinea,  var.  kinds;  Rochea  falcafa;  Sempervi- 
vum  arboreum  fol.  var.,  labulaforme,  canariense,  orbicum;  Sedum  fabaria,  tele- 
phium  fol.  var.  Sieboldii  variegata,  dasyphyllum;  Mesembryanthemum  spectabile, 
coccineum,  aureum,  deltoideum,  echinatum;  Kleinia  repens,  flcoidea;  Eugenia 
australis;  Habrothamnus  elegans,  fascicularis ;  Indigofera  australis,  decora; 
Laurus  Camphora;  Melaleuca  alba,  hypericifoliat  decussata,  ericfefolia,  foliosa, 
lucidula,  squarrosa,  thymifolia,  ovata,  linearifolia,  speciosa;  Phormium  tenax- 
Pittosporum  Tobira;  Polygala  Dalmaysiana,  grandis,  speciosa;  Rhododendron 
Gibsonii,  jasminiflorum,  Princess  Royale,  Veitchmnum;  Rhopala  corcovadensis, 
Schizostylis  coccinea;  Statice  arborea,  Halfordii,  macrophylla;  Veronica  An- 
dersoni,  imperialis,  salicifolia,  speciosa  floribunda;  Libonia  floribunda,  Centra- 
denia  floribunda,  grandifolia  ;  Clerodendron  infortunatum,  fallax,  Balfouri, 
Kaempferi;  Coleus,  var.  kinds ;  Heliotropium,  var  kinds  ;  Poinsettia  pulcher- 
rima; Nandina  domestica;  Hogiera  cordata;  Rondeletia  speciosa;  Russelia  jun- 
cea;  Sanchezia  nobilis;  Scutellaria  mociniana;  Solandra  grandiflora;  Aloe 
flmbriata,  Tabern&montana  coronaria  fl.  pi.,  Crowea  saligna;  Diplacus  puni- 
ceus  floribundus  ;  Farfugium  grande;  Ligularia  Kaempferi  fol.  var.  ;  Callis- 
temon  semperflorens;  Begonia  ricinifolia,  ricinifolia  maculata,  heracleifolia,  ma- 
crophylla, Huegelii,  Hernan  diafolia,  grandis,  Dregei,  peltata,  Pewcei,  manicatat 


86  WINDOW    GARDENING. 

hydrocotyledes,  Warszewitzii,  coccinea,  sanguined,  incarnata,  odorata,  argyr 
tigma,  stigmosa,  smaragdina,  Rex  var.  hybrides,  Sedenii,   Weltoniensis.Bolivi- 
ensis. 

c.  PLANTS  FOR  HANGING  BASKETS,    FLOWER    STANDS,    LAMPS    AND    CAN- 
SOLES,  ETC.: 

Leucopliyta  Brotvnii,  Vinca  major  fol.  var. ;  MesembryantJiemum  cordifolium 
fol.  var.  ;  Crassula  spathulata;  Sedum  carneum  variegatum  ;  Cerastium  tomen- 
tosum,  Biebersteinii  ;  Tropceolum  majus  fl.  pi. ;  C  lematis  azurea  grandiflora, 
lanuginosa,  Jackmanni  ;  Ficus  stipularis  (repens*)  ;  Gelsemium  nitidum  ;  JEs- 
chinanthus  zebrinus,  grandiflorus  ;  Tradescantia  zebrina,  Warscewitzii  ;  Saxi- 
fraga  sarmentosa,  Sieboldii  fol.  var.;  Clorophyton  Sternbergianum  ;  Lonicera 
brachipoda  aureo-reticulata  ;  Solanum  jasminoides ;  Isolepis  elegans ;  J^ra- 
garia  indica  ;  Euonymus  radicans  ;  Ajuga  reptans  fol.  var. ;  Glechoma  hede- 
racea  fol.  var.  ;  and  var.  species  of  Selaginella. 

d.  PLANTS  FOR  FESTOONS,  COLUMNS,  AND  FOR  DECORATING  WALLS,  ETC. 

Passiflora  actinea,  cterulea,  racemosa,  edulis,  insignis,  quadrangularis,  kerme- 
sina,  Loudoni,  trifasciata,  princeps  ;  Tacsonia  splendens.  Van  Volxemii ;  Rhyn- 
chospermum  jasminoides,  obtusifolium  variegatum  ;  Cob&a  scandens  fol.  var; 
Akebia  quinata  ;  Stcphanotis  floribunda  ;  Pilogyne  suavis  ;  Bignonia  venusta, 
speciosa,  australis,  Latrobea  ;  Tecoma  jasminoides  rosea  ;  Mandevillea  suaveo- 
lens  ;  Phaseolus  Caracalla  ;  Physianthus  album;  Thunbergia  laurifolia,  gran, 
diflora ;  Mikania  scandens  (Senecio  micanoides) ;  Tropceolum  pentaphyllum, 
tricolorum,  spedosum  ;  Pharbitis  Learii,  ficifolia,  insignis,  palmata  ;  Mauran- 
dia  ;  Loplwspermum  ;  Rhodochyton  volubile. 

e.  FERNS    FOR    GENERAL    DECORATION  WHICH   REQUIRE  A  MODERATE   TEM- 
PERATURE : 

Acroslichum  alcicorne  (Platyceruiri)  ;  Adiantum  tenerum,  concinnum,  cnnea- 
tum,  formosum,  pubescens,  trapeziforme  ;  Anemia  villosa  ;  Aspidium  molle, 
violascens,  Kaulfussia  ;  Asplenium  flabellifolium,  palmatum  ;  Blcchnum  aus- 
trale,  Brasiliense  ;  Cyatliea  medullaris,  australis  ;  Cyrtomium  falcatum  ;  Da- 
vallia  Canariensis ;  pixidata  ;  Dicksonia  australis,  antarctica,  umbrosa  ;  Doo- 
dia  caudata ;  Doryopteris  palmata  ;  Polypodium  aureum ;  Gymnogramma 
chrysophylla,  Peruviana  ;  Lastrcea  elegans  ;  Lomaria  gibba,  latifolia  ;  Nepliro- 
lepis  exaltata,  tuberosa  ;  Oleandra  neriifolia;  Pteris^  longi folia,  serrulata 
stricta. 

IT. — PLANTS   FOR  GREENHOUSES,  CONSERVATORIES  AND  FLOWER  SALOONS, 

WHICH  REQUIRE  DURING  THE  WINTER  ONLY  A  LOW  TEMPERATURE,  OR  HAVE  A 
NORTHERN  EXPOSURE  : 

a.  PLANTS  FOR  THE  GENERAL  DECORATION  . 

Rhododendron  hybridum,  var.  kinds;  Azalea  Indica,  var.  kinds;  Azalea 
amoena  ;  Kalmia  latifolia;  Photiuia  serrulata;  Aucuba  Japonica,  new  var.; 


WINDOW   GARDENING.  g7 

Hex  aquifoliiim,  fol.  var.  ;  Mespilus  pyracantha  ;  Eucalyptus,  var.  kinds;  An- 
dromeda floribunda ;  Kassandra  canaliculata,  speciosa,  puluerulenta,  etc. ; 
Erica  arbor  ea,  M edit  err  an  ea ,  hibernica,  strigosa,  herbacea,  multiflora  ;  Crypto 
meria  Japonica,  eleg*ns,  araucaroides  ;  Cedrus  argentea  (Africana)  ;  Cupres- 
sus  sempervirens,  funebris  ;  (Thuja}  Biota  filiformis  ;  Retinospora,  var.  kinds  / 
Fagus  antarctica,  Cunniw gliami ;  Laurus  regalis,  nobilis  ;  Nerium  oleander  ; 
OleaEuropcea  ;  Viburnum  tinus,  macrocephalum,  suspensus  ;  Magnolia  grandi- 
flora  ;  Bambusa  MetaJce,  falcata  ;  Polygala  cham&buocis  ;  fthuscus  andro- 
gynus,  racemosus,  hypoglossum,  hypophyllum,  aculeatus  ;  Abelia  floribunda ; 
Arbutus  unedo,  andrachne ;  Podocarpus  elongatus,  neriifolius,  latifolius, 
elegans;  Berberis  Darwinii,  dealbata,  Fortunei,  ilicifolia,  macrophylla^Taponica : 
Budd,lea  globosa  ;  Ceanothus  azureus ;  Melia  Azedarach,  Pistacia  lentiscus  ;  Vi- 
tex  agnus-castus ;  Cerasus  lauro  cerasus  ;  Ceratonia  siliqua ;  Cistus  roseus't 
formosus,  ladaniferus,  Lusitamcus,  grandiflorus  ;  Leicesteria  formosa  ;  Coro- 
nilla  glauca,  fol.  var  ;  Daphne  Fortunei,  laureola,  alpina,  collina,  cneorum  j 
Elaagnus  reflexa  ;  Escallonia  florttmnda,  grandiftora  ;  Eurya  Japonica,  fol 
var.  ;  Sltimmia  Japonica  ;  OphiopogonJaponicus,  spicatum,  Jaburan;  Euony- 
musJaponicus,  fol.  var.;  Juniperus Bermudiana ;  Rhamnusalaternus,fol.var.; 
Phormium  tenax  ;  Genista  tinctoria,  fl.  pi. ;  Helianthemum,  var.  kinds  ;  Hype- 
ricum  calycinum  ;  Jasminum  revolutum,  lucidum,  Wallichianum ;  Ligustrum 
lucidum,  fol.  var.,  Japonicum,  fol.  var.;  Mahonia  Japonica  ;  Myrica  Calif or- 
"hica  ;  Osmanthus  fimbriatus  ;  UlexEurop&a  ;  Yucca  and  Agave,  var.  kinds  ; 
Pinus  lanceolatus  ;  Pernettya  floribunda  ;  Stuartia  pentagyna  ;  Libocedrus  Chi- 
lensse,  nuciferus,  Calif  or  nicus  ;  Magnolia  conspicua. 

b.  THE  FOLLOWING    PLANTS    MAY  SERVE   FOR   HEIGHTENING  THE  EFFECT  OF 

FLOWERS  IN  THE  WINTER-TIME  AND  SPRING  : 

Polygonatum  stellatum,  verticillatum,  multiflorum  ;  Doronicum  Caucasicum , 
Adonis  vernalis,  Dicentra  speclabilis,  Corydalis  aurea,  nobilis ;  Lindelophia 
spectabilis  ;  Omphalodes  verna ;  Cyclamen  Europceum ;  Anthericum  Liliago  ; 
Dodecatheon  Meadiat  Jeffreyi ;  Dianthus,  var.  kinds;  Nardosmia  fragranst 
( Tussilago}  ;  Funkia,  fol.  var. ;  Gentiana  acaulis  ;  Primula  cortusoides ;  Hel~ 
leborus  niger  ;  Hepatica  triloba,  angulosa ;  Iberis  sempervirens ;  Iris,  var.  kinds; 
Hyacinths;  Narcissus;  Crocus;  Tulips;  Muscari;  Galanthus ;  Colchicum ; 
Leucojum  vernum  ;  Trillium  grandiflorum ;  Orobus  vernus ;  Paonia  tenuifolia ; 
PulmonariaVirginica,  saccharata ;  RamondiaPyrenaica  •  Erinus  alpinus  ;  Solda- 
nella  alpina,  minima ;  Ehexia  Virginica ;  Sanguinaria  Canadensis ;  Saxifraga 
ligulata.Sibirica,  crassifolia,  cordifolia ;  Spigelia  Marylandica  ;  Primula  acau- 
lis,  ft.  pi. ;  Viola,  var.  kinds  ;  Lychnis  Haageana,  Sieboldii. 

c.  CLIMBING  AND   HANGING   PLANTS   FOR  A   HOUSE  WITH  A  LOW  TEMPERA 

TURE  : 

Adlumia  cirrhosa  ;  Tropceolum pentaphyllum ;  AJcebia  quinata  ;  Various  kinds 
of  Clematis;  Ampelopsis  Veitchii ,  Bignonia  capreolata ;  Hedera  (7yy)  var 


gg  WINDOW  GARDENING 

kinds;  Loniceia  Japonica,  grata,  semper fllor  ens,  ~brachypoda  aureo-reticulata, 
Cissus  antarctica ;  Rubus  ros&florus,  fl.  pi. ;  Rosa  sempervivens,  Banksia, 
Thea,  Noisette,  multiflora,  Fortunei ;  Gaultheria  procumoens ;  Vinca  minor, 
var.  kinds  ;  Phlox  verna,  repens,  setacea,  Lysimachia  nummularia  ;  Lmnea  bo~ 
realis. 

d.  FERNS  WHICH  CAN  HAVE  A  LOW  TEMPERATURE  : 

Adiantum  capillus  Veneris,  pedatum  ;  Asplenium  fontanum,  marinum,  ruta- 
muraria,  viride ;  Athyrium  filix-foemina,  flexuosum,  laciniatum,  plumosum ; 
Blechnum  boreale  (occidcntale),  spicant  (Lomaria) ;  Cystopteris  bulbifera ;  Ono- 
clea  sensibilis ;  Lastrcea  filix-mas>  rigida*  dilatata,  Goldiana ;  Lomaria  Magel" 
lanica,  alpina  ;  Osmunda  regalis,  cinnamomea ;  Polypodium  vulgare,  alpestre ' 
Polystichium  aculeatum,  angulare,  acrostichoides ;  Scolopendrium  officinarum 
(vulgare)  ;  StruthiopterisGermanica ;  Cyrtomium  falcatum. 

e.  Finally,  we  add  a  small  list  of  Orchids,  or  air-plants,  for  amateurs,  who 
may  cultivate  them  in  a  green  house  or  flower  saloon  of  a  moderate  temperature. 
The  following  species  are  free  bloomers,  not  very  tender,  and  easily  cultivated  : 

Dendrobium  nobile ;  Cattleya  Mossios,  labiata,  Skinneri,  guttata.  Perrinii , 
Laelia  majalis,  autumnalis,  superbiens ;  Calanthe  veratrifolia,  vestita  rosea; 
Cypripedium  barbatum,  insigne,  venustum  •  Epidendrum  ciliare,  fragrant!  • 
Gongora  maculata ;  Maxillaria  tenuifolia,  Harrissonite,  picta ;  Oncidium  pu- 
pilio,  roseum,  picturatum,  ampliatum,  flexuosum,  luridum ;  Odontoglossum 
grande,  pulchellum,  Uro-Skinneri,  Insleayi ;  Lycaste  aromatica,  Deppii,  Skin- 
neri ;  Stanhopea  tigrina,  saccata,  oculata,  guttulata,  insignis ;  Schomburgkia 
crispa ;  Acineta  Humboldtii,  longiscarpa;  Zygopetalum  Mackayi,  crinitum , 
Phaius  grandifolius  (JBletia  Tanker villice,  Limodoruni)  ;  Peristeria  alata ;  Mil- 
tonia  Candida ;  Coelogyne  cristata,  Trichopilia  tortilis;  Cymbidium  aloifolium, 
cnsifolium;  Bletia  hyacinthina. 


PART  II. 


PLANTS  FOR  WINDOW  GARDENS 


Fig.  1. — Design  for  Ornamental  Hanging  Basnet. 


HANGING  BASKETS. 

Hanging  Baskets  form  our  simplest  and  also  cheapest  style  of  window  orna- 
ment. They  need  very  little  care,  their  demands  are  not  very  exacting,  and 
the  chances  of  failure  are  very  much  less  than  plants  of  more  sensitive  nature, 
fit  only  for  careful  pot  culture.  The  Hanging  Basket  is  supposed  to  be  a  modern 
invention,  or,  at  any  rate,  not  very  popularly  used  until  late  times ;  hence,  it 
strikes  us  with  feelings  of  curiosity  to  learn  that,  in  the  observance  of  the 
Jewish  rural  festivals  hundreds  of  years  ago,  plants  and  cut  flowers  were  taste 
fully  arranged,  placed  in  vases,  and  suspended  from  the  branches  forming  the 
roof  of  the  leaf-covered  tabernacle.  This  was  made  of  the  branches  of  the 
oak,  cedar,  palm,  and  willow,  so  cut  as  to  prevent  them  from  withering  for 
seven  days,  while  the  Passover  was  celebrated. 

The  directions  for  culture  are  very  simple :  Choose  as  pots  or  baskets  clay 
bowls  of  porous  ware,  which  may  be  set  inside  either  a  wire  or  wooden  frame, 
or  a  glazed  vessel.  In  non-porous  pots  or  vessels,  plants  will  not  grow  to  per- 
fection ;  there  is  usually  no  outlet  or  drainage  for  the  surplus  moisture  to 
escape,  and  all  side  ventilation  or  aeration  is  cut  off.  Hence,  the  soil  becomes 
sodden,  and  the  roots  are  liable  to  decay.  After  you  have  provided  your  bas 
kets,  then  fill  the  bottom  to  the  depth  of  an  inch  or  two  with  small  bits  of 
charcoal,  for  the  triple  purpose  of  drainage,  purification,  and  as  a  fertilizer. 
Charcoal  dust  is  also  desirable  to  mix  with  the  soil.  A  coarse  sponge  might  be 
put  in,  if  the  vessel  is  deep,  to  drink  up  the  surplus  moisture,  and  yet  keep  the 
soil  moist  by  giving  it  out  again  when  dry.  You  do  not  need  a  very  rich  soil ; 
good  garden  soil  is  well  enough ;  because,  if  too  rich,  your  plants  will  grow  too 
rapidly  for  grace  and  beauty,  and  run  too  much  to  stem.  Climbing  or  drooping 
vines  may  run  as  much  as  they  please ;  the  more  freely  the  better,  as  it  is  the 
very  thing  desired;  but  standard  plants  in  baskets  must  not  be  stimulated 
much;  they  would  outgrow  their  space. 

Sand  is  a  needed  ingredient;  at  least  one  third  the  soil  should  be  composed 
of  "  scouring  sand."  Mix  it  well  with  dark  loam  and  leaf  mould.  The  soil 
from  around  pine  trees  is  most  excellent  for  your  baskets ;  in  fact,  there  is  none 
better. 

If  the  baskets  become  very  dry  from  the  excessive  heat  of  the  sun,  it  is  best 
to  place  them  in  a  dish  of  water  for  half  an  hour.  Thus  treated,  the  roots  suck 
up  a  copious  supply,  and  need  not  receive  any  more  for  two  or  three  days. 


92  WINDOW   GARDENING 

Plants  do  not  thrive  luxuriantly  in  baskets,  year  after  year,  with  soil  or 
position  unchanged ;  hence,  it  is  well  to  renew  them  every  autumn,  for  healthier 
plants  will  be  the  result. 

In  the  summer  time,  when  the  rooms  are  closed  against  sun  and  flies,  there 
is  not  light  enough  to  keep  the  plants  healthy,  and  then  they  should  be  hung 
in  the  shade  of  the  porch  or  piazza,  or  under  the  trees. 

Hanging  Baskets,  provided  with  the  charcoal  and  the  sponge  in  the  bottom, 
need  not  have  a  hole  for  drainage,  for  these  will  supply  their  place. 

Plants  of  very  watery  tissues,  usually  grown  in  the  neighborhood  of  ponds  or 
woodland  streams,  will  do  best  in  soil  transplanted  from  such  location;  but  ordi- 
nary leaf  mould  will  answer  for  almost  everything. 

It  is  a  good  plan  to  keep  a  good  reserve  supply  of  soil  at  hand  in  a  heap,  ready 
at  any  time  you  may  desire  to  make  a  new  basket,  fill  a  new  pot,  or  change  the 
plants  in  either. 

When  you  are  potting  the  plants  into  any  vessel,  press  the  soil  well  down 
around  the  plants,  and  never  use  wet  soil ;  let  it  be  well  dried  and  friable 

Watering  should  be  carefully  administered,  for  few  know  what  to  give  their 
plants,  how  to  give,  or  when.  An  hour's  neglect  or  forgetfulness  may  blight 
the  entire  beauty  of  your  basket ;  or,  again,  an  overflooding  in  a  hot,  dry  room 
may  cause  them  to  mould. 

Whenever  they  are  watered  the  whole  of  the  soil  in  the  pot  should  be  weL 
wetted,  and  the  frequency  of  watering  depends  upon  the  temperature  of  the  air  ; 
the  warmer  the  room  the  more  frequently  will  they  need  it.  Usually  once  a 
day,  in  the  early  morning  or  previous  evening,  is  sufficient,  if  the  thermometer 
measures  45°  to  65°;  if  over  that,  and  averaging  60°  to  80°,  twice  a  day,  water- 
ing moderately,  will  be  sufficient.  In  winter  time  do  not  apply  cold  water ; 
either  use  it  of  same  degree  as  that  of  the  room,  or  bring  your  dish  of  water  in 
the  room  and  let  it  stand  an  hour  or  two  before  applying.  More  damage  than 
a  little  is  done  by  applying  too  cool  water,  giving  the  tender  plant  a  severe  chill. 
If  the  surface  soil  cakes  any,  break  it  up  frequently,  and  keep  a  good  watch 
for  insects. 

Construction 

The  devices  for  making  hanging  baskets  are  nearly  endless.  Our  florists  offer 
a  great  variety  of  patterns;  our  wire  manufacturers  offer  some  pretty  designs, 
and  our  pottery  and  tile  merchants  have  equally  attractive  models  of  elegance 
and  beauty.  Choose  anything  you  like,  only  we  recommend  to  you  not  to  get 
them  too  small.  We  would  select  nothing  less  than  eleven  or  twelve  inches  in 
diameter,  and  six  inches  deep.  Let  the  soil  be  filled  in  even  with  the  edge  of 
the  rim,  and  then  rise  toward  the  centre  like  a  small  mound.  If  there  are  but 
one  or  two  large  plants  in  the  basket,  cover  the  surface  of  the  soil  with  moss, 
which  will  retain  the  moisture  in  the  soil,  needing  watering  only  at  occasional 
intervals ;  the  moss  from  trees  is  not  as  desirable  as  that  usually  found  growing 


WINDOW  GARDENING. 


93 


f\g.  Z.— Trailing  Morning  Glory—  Convolvulus  MauritaniCBd. 


04 


.  WINDOW  GARDENING. 


on  the  ground  in  some  low,  moist  place,  near  a  swamp.  Pots  of  lava,  or  non 
porous  material,  without  a  hole  at  the  bottom  for  drainage,  must  be  used  only 
for  holding  other  and  more  porous  pots  inside,  the  insterstices  being  filled  with 
moist  moss.  Very  pretty  wire  baskets  are  found  at  some  of  our  stores ;  and 
these,  being  open,  must  be  filled  with  moss  first,  and  then  a  little  soil  in  the  cen- 
tre, and  the  plants  added  afterwards. 


Fig.  3. 

Large  sea  shells,  (nautilus  or  concli,)  will  hold  soil  enough  to  support  crnilers, 
and  are  usually  very  tasteful  window  ornaments.  One  of  the  prettiest  baskets 
ever  seen  was  made  from  a  singe  sea  shell,  quite  large.  Holes  were  bored 
through  the  edge  to  fasten  cords  to  hang  it  by ;  the  interior  of  the  shell  was 


WIXDOW    GARDENING. 


95 


filled  with  light,  rich  soil, 
and  Lycopodiums  and  Lo- 
belias were  planted  in  it- 
The  rind  of  the  gourd,  and 
of  the  scallop  squash,  inako 
elegant  baskets  for  drooping 
plants.  Cocoanut  shells, 
whether  in  their  natural 
state  or  embellished,  with 
rustic  work  around,  are  ac- 
ceptable. 

Home-made  baskets  of 
wooden  bowls,  (such  as  we 
use  in  our  kitchens,)  are 
very  common  and  desirable. 
Four  -or  five  holes  should  ,»- 
be  bored  with  agimbletin  the  * 
bottom  or  the  sides  of  the 
bowl.  The  best  sizes  are 
12  to  16  inches  in  diameter, 
and  if  there  are  no  rustic 
arm  supports,  there  must 
be  several  holes  bored 
around  the  ed  e,  in  which 
to  fasten  the  cords  it  is  supported  by — three  are  enough.  To  ornament  the 
outside  of  the  bowl,  choose  the  gray  and  white  lichens  of  the  woods,  fasten 
them  on  with  glue,  or  nail  on  with  small  brads.  If  ihe  stiff  mosses  from 
the  pine  woods  are  used,  they  can  be  wet  with  water,  which  renders  them 
pliable,  and  fastened  on  with  thread  copper  wire,  nailing  nails  on  the  inner 
edge  of  the  bowl  and  at  the  bottom,  around  which  to  twist  the  wires.  The 
contrast  between  the  gray  and  white  moss,  and  the  rich  emerald  or  brightly 
variegated  vines,  is  very  beautiful.  Such  a  basket,  if  planted  with  nothing  more 
than  the  Tradescaittia  zebrina,  and  the  green  leaved  variety  of  the  same  plant, 
•ningled  with  soft  hanging  grasses,  or  the  bright  green  of  the  Moneywort,  would 
be  very  pleasing.  City  residents,  of  course,  will  not  desire  to  make  their  own 
baskets,  but  prefer  to  get  them  filled  from  the  most  convenient  florist.  We  intro- 
duce several  very  pretty  designs,  which  deserve  to  be  copied. 

Fig.  1,  is  a  design  for  a  hanging  basket  of  more  than  usual  elegance,  and  is  a 
specimen  out  of  many  favorite  styles  prevalent  among  the  well-to-do  classes  o. 
Berlin,  Germany.  The  box  is  made  of  handsomely  carved  wood,  the  inside  lined 
with  zinc  or  clay;  the  basin  is  tilled  with  earth,  and  in  it  are  planted  Begonias, 
Caladiurns,  Coleus,  Geraniums,  Ivy,  Ornamental  Grasses,  Calla  Lily,  and  quite 
ft  variety  of  other  flowers  The  size  is  about  two  feet  wide  by  three  and  a  half 


9ft  WINDOW  GARDENING. 

feet  long.  Worsted  cords  and  tassels  help  out  the  richness  of  the  frames,  and 
the  brilliant  hues  of  the  foliage  of  the  plants  within.  Few  or  no  hanging  baskets 
we  have  seen  can  equal  this  for  artistic  taste. 

Fig.  2,  is  an  illustration  of  a  large,  deep  basket,  filled  with  a  dense  growth 
of  the  Convolvulus  Mauritanicus.  This  is  a  highly  ornamental  plant,  of  droop- 
ing, half  shrubby  character,  slender  habit,  with  a  profusion  of  elegant  light  blue 
blossoms,  upward  of  an  inch  in  width,  forming  an  admirable  plant  for  suspended 
vases  or  baskets.  It  continues  long  in  bloom,  and  its  porcelain  blue  blossoms 
we  conspicuously  beautiful. 


Fig.  5. — Group  of  Ferns. 

Fig.  3,  is  a  picture  of  the  Convolvulus  drooping  over  the  sides  of  a  rustic 
carved  hanging  basket.  The  outside  framework  is  wood,  but  contains  a  cl«y 
bowl  sitting  neatly  within.  The  Convolvulus  family  .afford  many  very  desirable 
plants  for  baskets  of  this  description.  One  lady  cultivator  goes  so  far  as  to  say 
that  the  common  Morning  Glory  is  one  of  the  most  satisfactory  plants  she  ever 
cultivated.  "The  vine,  by  house  culture,  becomes  delicate  in  form,  and  is  very 
thrifty.  The  flowers,  a  little  smaller  than  the  Convolvulus  tri-color,  appear  every 
morning,  and  remain  until  nearly  nignt.  Seeds  planted  in  early  spring,  say 
March,  will  flourish  and  bloom  in  less  than  six  weeks."  This  family  generally 


WINDOW    QARDKNTNO 


97 


are  free  bloomers,  very  showy, 
and  have  exceedingly  handsome 
flowers,  with  rich  colors. 

Fig.  4,  is  a  sketch  of  a  pretty 
wire  basket,  filled  with  Ivy  and 
Ferns ;  branches  of  the  partridge 
vine  hang  over  the  sides  of  the 
basket ;  the  interior  is  filled  with 
moss,  and  over  them  all  peep  out 
clusters  of  exquisite  ferns.  The 
stems  of  the  Ivy  and  the  part- 
ridge vine  are  all  stuck  into  bot- 
tles filled  with  water,  and  hid 
away  here  and  there  in  the  moss. 
The  ferns  had  all  been  gathered 
from  the  woods,  and  then  pressed 
out  smooth  and  clean,  and  ar- 
ranged gracefully,  their  stems 
standing  in  the  water  of  the  bot- 
tles ;  the  bottles  are  filled  with 
water  every  two  or  three  days. 
The  Ivy  has  also  grown  from 
only  two  or  three  little  slips  stuck 
into  the  water,  and  has  twined 
its  arms  around  and  above  the 
cords  of  the  basket,  clear  to  the 
very  top. 

Fig.  5,  is  a  group  of  Ferns  of 
great  variety,  gathered  into  a 
wire  basket  of  neat  and  simple 
design.  In  the  centre  of  the 
group  is  one  of  the  Draccenas, 

having    leaves    of   a    brilliantly  Fig.  e.-Fiower  Basket, 

shaded  dark  crimson — a  class  of  plants  always  very  handsome. 

Springing  out  of  this  is  the  Goniophlebium  subauriculatum,  with  its  long 
primate  pendulous  fronds ;  the  Cheilanthes  spectabilis,  which  delights  in  moist- 
ure, warmth,  and  shade;  other  Ferns,  such  as  the  Maiden's  Hair,  (Adiantum,) 
usually  of  large  growth.  The.Athyrium,  and  many  of  the  Spleenworts,  (Asple- 
nium,)  are  introduced  here  to  form  one  of  the  finest  styles  of  natural  Hanging 
Baskets  we  can  suggest  for  imitation  by  our  readers. 

Fig.  6,  introduces  a  style  of  basket  very  suitable  for  bulbs.  It  is  made  of 
wire,  and  the  interior  is  lined  with  zinc.  There  is  a  small  vessel  beneath  to 
hold  drippings  frem  the  hole  for  drainage.  Zinc  vessels  are  not  always  perma- 

7 


ns 


ir/.N DOW  G  \ /: 


cent;  in  time  they  corrode,  and  must  be  renewed      Clay  or  wood  are  preferable. 

The  plants  herein  are  several  Hyacinths,  Tulips,  Crocuses,  Lily  of  the  Valley, 
&c.  The  directions  for  the  starting  of  these  bulbs  and  their  culture  has  already 
been  explained  in  the  chapter  on  bulbs. 


Fig.  7.— Ornamental  Hanging  Baskets. 

Fig.  8,  is  a  Conservatory  Basket,  of  lava  war,e,  made  unusually  deep.  The 
plants  herein  placed  are  Dracaenas,  Crotons,  Indian  Ferns,  Niphobolus  pertu- 
sus,  and  N.  rupestris ;  also  the  Variegated  Panicum.  Ivy  droops  over  the 
sides. 


WIXDOW 


99 


Fig.  9,  is  an  ornamental  hanging  pot  of 
lava  or  Majolica  ware,  covered  with  droop- 
ing vines.  The  most  popular  favorites  for 
drooping  vines  are  the  Nasturtium,  Tro- 
paeolum,  Convolvulus  minor,  Honeysuckle, 
Trailing  Mesembryanthemum.  The  cen- 
tre may  also  be  occupied  with  low  grow- 
ing plants,  like  the  Verbena,  Heliotrope, 
Petunias,  Xemophilas,  Lobelias,  Mimu- 
lus,  <kc. 

Fig.  10  is  a  sketch  of  the  Sedum  Sie- 
boldii,  a  plant  of  very  easy  growth,  and 
does  best  when  kept  in  the  greenhouse 
or  conservatory.  The  soil  most  suitable 
is  light,  yet  rich.  Say  turfy  loam,  1 

part ;  rotten  dung,  1  part ;  sand,  1  part ;  Hg.  a. 

brick  broken  small,  1  part.  It  should  be  always  under  glass  exposed  to  the  full 
daylight,  and  have  abundance  of  water.  It  is  naturally  a  trailer,  and  will 
droop  gracefully  over  the  outsides  of  the  pot,  and  will  bloom  most  profusely. 
It  should  be  watered  carefully,  so  that  no  water  will  get  on  the  leaves.  Give  it 
fresh  air  frequently.  The  habit  of  growth  of  the  Sedum  Sieboldii  is  very 
peculiar.  From  one  central 
crown  or  stool  appear  a  num- 
ber of  slender  branches ;  at 
regular  intervals  come  the 
leaves  in  groups  of  three,  and 
these  continue  to  lengthen  un- 
til in  the  month  of  August, 
when  flower  buds  appear  at 
the  terminals  of  each  branch. 

The  average  growth  of  good 
specimens  is  about  one  and  a 
half  feet  long,  and  the  flowers 
have  a  spread  of  nearly  six 
inches.  As  described  by  Shir- 
ley Hibberd :  "  In  every  stage 
of  growth  the  plant  is  a  beau- 
tiful object,  the  leaves  being  pig.  9. 

slightly  concave  on  the  upper  surface,  and  coTered  with  a  delicate  glaucous 
bloom.  The  flower-buds  appear  a  long  time  in  advance  of  the  flowers,  but 
when  at  last  these  open  in  September,  their  lively,  rosy,  pink  hue  and  symmet- 
rical disposition  are  remarkably  beautiful,  and  contrast  chastely  and  cheerfully 
with  the  peculiar  tint  of  the  leafage.  After  the  blooms  have  faded  the  stems 


100 


WIND  OW  GARD  EXIXO . 


die  down,  and  arc  immediately  succeeded  by  a  new  growth  from  the  root,  and 
thus,  if  encouraged  by  good  culture,  a  specimen  will  become  larger  and  larger 
every  year,  and  may  ultimately  be  grown  to  colossal  dimensions.  It  is  one  of 
the  easiest  plants  to  grow,  and  its  habit  is  remarkably  distinct  and  elegant." 

Fig.  11  is  a  plant  of  the  Variegated  Ivy.  This  is  both  cheap,  clean,  needs 
little  attention,  grows  rapidly,  and  is  the  most  permanently  attractive  of  all 
plants  for  the  window.  Were  there  no  other  plant  than  this  in  the  window  it 
might  still  be  considered  well  furnished. 


Fig.  10.— Sedum  SieboldiL 

Fig.  12  is  a  sketch  of  the  Saxifraga  Fortunei  tricolor. 

Fig.  13  is  a  sketch  of  a  bracket,  with  a  wooden  bowl,  holding  a  plant  of  the 
Sedum  Sieboldii  trailing  from  it.  This  can  be  easily  attached  to  the  sides  of  the 
room,  fastened  to  the  centre  of  the  window  frame.  It  is  very  suitable  for  the  Ivy 
either  to  trail  from,  or  it  may  be  placed  at  the  bottom  of  the  window,  and  the 
vine  trained  upward  along  the  window  casing. 

Home-Made  Hanging  Baskets. 
Nearly  every  one  appreciates  best  some  basket  made  by  their  own  handi* 


WINDOW  GARDENING, 


101 


Usually  only  ordinary  taste  is  re- 
quisite to  contrive  some  very  agree- 
able designs,  and  only  a  few  hours* 
labor  are  needed.  So  we  will  give 
suggestions  of  how  to  make  some 
Home-Made  Hanging  Baskets  of 
handy  and  inexpensive  materials. 

For  trimming  the  outside  of  some 
wooden  bowl  the  roots  of  the  laurel 
are  very  suitable,  also  those  of  the 
briar  rose,  which  grows  so  plenti- 
fully near  the  woodlands  and  in  fence 
corners.  They  are  very  crooked 
and  gnarled,  but  when  thoroughly 
cleansed  from  soil  they  can  be  nailed 
upon  these  bowls  in  grotesque  and 
picturesque  forms.  A  coat  of  copal 

varnish  laid  over  the  whole  will  often  Fig.  n. 

make  the  basket  possess  as  handsome  an  appearance  as  those  for  sale  by  any 
florist. 

The  boughs  and  roots  of  the  wild  grape  vine  supply  materials  for  this  style  of 
rustic  ornamentation.  Do  not  remove  the  bark  unless  it  is  very  ragged,  and 
then  tear  it  away  carefully,  not  taking  more  than  is  needful.  By  peeling  in 
this  way  the  stem  will  be  vari-colored.  If  a  darker  hue  than  the  natural  wood 
is  preferred,  take  two  ounces  of  gum  asphaltum  and  dissolve  it  in  half  a  pint 
of  turpentine  or  coal  oil.  Apply  the  stain  with  a  common  paint  brush,  putting 
on  two  coats  if  it  is  not  dark  enough  at  first. 

A  simple  rustic  basket  may  be  made  of  three  forked  branches  of  any  old 
tree,  the  more  thickly  bestudded  with  little  branchlets,  and  the  more  gnarled 
and  mossy,  the  better.  Get  those  with  drooping  gray  beard  moss,  if  possible. 
The  sticks  should  be  less  than  an  inch  in  diameter,  and  six  or  eight  inches  in 
length.  Unite  the  three  forks  by  their  heads,  winding  them  with  very  strong 
twine  or  pliable  wire,  and  then,  with  the  same  material,  fasten  the  branchlets 
here  and  there,  to  form  a  sort  of  lattice-work,  and  wind  the  gray  moss  over  all 
fastenings.  Then,  in  the  same  way,  attach  stout  cord  for  handles.  Set  in  this 
a  common  clay  pot  with  its  saucer,  crowding  around  it  plenty  of  moss,  and  you 
have  a  pretty  thing  complete. 

Some  persons  take  the  common  wire  baskets,  and  make  an  improvement  by 
surrounding  them  with  strips  of  pasteboard.  This  is  completely  covered  by 
pasting  or  glueing  upon  it  gray  or  green  lichens,  with  a  few  bits  of  the  creep- 
ing moss,  and  a  little  of  the  coral  or  red  cup  moss.  If  none  of  this  last  can  be 
procured,  heat  red  sealing-wax,  and  with  it  touch  the  rough  edges  of  some  of 
the  lichens. 

Wire  baskets  are  in  general  better  suited  for  the  conservatory  than  the  par 


102 


WINDOW    GARDENING 


lor,  because  they  need 
a  good  watering  two  or 
three  times  a  week,  and 
will  drip  more  or  less 
constantly. 

A  very  queer  Hang- 
ing Basket  was  made 
by  a  flower-lover  after 
this  fashion :  A  piece  of 
board  one  foot  long  and 
eight  inches  wide  was 
first  selected,  then 
around  the  edges  was 
nailed  a  lath  projecting 
about  an  inch  above ; 
in  each  of  the  corners 
was  driven  a  nail,  and 
by  means  of  strings 
tied  thereto  the  basket 
was  hung  up.  In  the 
bottom  were  scattered 
a  row  of  stones  of 
moderate  size ;  then 
they  were  covered  with 

layer  of  earth;  above  this  was  another  row  of  smaller  stones,  then  a  layer 
earth,  then  sand  pebbles,  and  a  final  coating  of  earth  over  all,  forming  a 
mound  in  the  centre.  Here  were  planted  very  small  rooted  cuttings  of  trail- 
ng  plants,  such  as  the  Morning  Glory,  which  soon  filled  the  basket  to  over- 
flowing. Two  plants  only  will  be  sufficient.  The  Cypress  vine  will  be  liked 
for  the  purpose.  Choose  five  or  six  plants.  The  Madeira  vine  is  unexcelled 
for  such  a  position.  Erect  plants  should  not  be  chosen,  although  Verbenas, 
Abronias,  and  Thunbergias  are  not  objectionable. 

Where  shells  are  used,  they  may  be  ornamented  with  different  shades  of 
moss,  mixing  the  white  mosses  with  the  green  as  you  glue  them  on. 

The  sections  of  large  pine  cones  will  also  ornament  prettily.  Tack  them  on 
with  brads,  boring  each  scale  with  a  brad-awl,  so  as  not  to  split  them.  Alter- 
nate the  scales,  and  varnish  the  whole,  and  you  will  be  quite  satisfied  with  the 
effect.  It  can  be  suspended  with  red  or  green  curtain  cord,  fastened  through 
holes,  as  before  directed,  with  bows  or  rosettes  at  the  top  and  sides.  The  cones 
of  the  dried  burs  of  the  Sweet  Gum  Tree,  if  strung  together  on  wire  or  strong 
twine,  as  beads  are  arranged  in  fancy  baskets,  make  a  handsome  basket,  whose 
rustic  appearance  is  very  pleasing. 

The  simplest  and  prettiest  of  all  these  constructions  is  that  made  from  small 
sticks  of  oak,  maple,  beach,  or  other  wood,  cut  in  lengths  of  eight,  ten,  twelve, 


WINDOW   GARDENING. 


103 


or  more  inches,  according  to  the  size  you  desire.  They  must  be  about  an  inch 
in  diameter,  and  a  hole  should  be  bored  with  a  gimblet  an  inch  from  the  end  of 
each  stick.  They  are  put  together  in  log-house  fashion,  one  stick  lopping  over 
the  other,  and  a  wire  with  a  loop  on  the  upper  end  is  passed  through  the  holes 
at  each  corner,  and  bent  up  on  the  under  side.  A  piece  of  board  an  inch  thick 
is  then  fastened  to  the  sides  for  a  bottom,  and  the  spaces  between  the  sticks 
should  be  filled  up  with  moss.  Small  iron  chains  suspend  such  baskets,  and 
rich  soil  from  the  woods  is  the  best  to  grow  the  plants  that  will  twine  round 
the  chains  and  wreath  them.  Ribbons  can  be  used  if  desired.  We  have  seen 
more  than  fifty  of  these  baskets  suspended  from  the  roof  of  an  orchid-house, 
and  the  effect  was  exquisitely  beautiful. 

A  cocoanut  affords  a  very  pretty  miniature  basket.     Leave  the  husk  on,  and 


Fig.  13. 

saw  off  about  one-quarter  of  the  nut;  dig  out  the  meat,  and  bore  holes  through 
three  sides  of  it.  The  stem  end  is  the  part  to  be  sawed  off.  Tie  cords  into  the 
holes.  There  are  many  articles  lying  about  every  house  that  could  do  duty  for 
hanging  baskets.  Worn  out  fly-covers  can  be  lined  with  moss  or  cartridge  paper, 
and  when  rilled  with  soil  and  beautiful  plants  they  produce  as  fine  an  effect  as 
many  a  more  picturesque  affair.  We  saw  one  but  recently  covered  with 
the  golden  flowers  of  the  Moneywort,  mingled  with  the  bright  blue  of  the 
Lobelia,  and  the  Zebra-striped  leaves  of  the  Tradescantia,  all  growing  luxuri- 
antly, and  making  a  humble  cottage  window  a  picture  of  grace  and  beauty. 

Ox  muzzles  are  within  the  reach  of  every  country  girl,  and  when  painted 
green  and  lined  with  moss  they  form  most  desirable  baskets  to  suspend  from 
piazzas  or  trees.  They  will  hang  from  the  trees  all  winter,  and  in  the  spring  th 


104  WINDOW   GARDENING. 

hardy  vines,  Moneywort  and  Partridge  vine,  (Mitchella  repens,}  come  forth  in 
fresh  beauty  and  gracefulness. 

Miniature  baskets  can  be  made  of  a  goose  or  turkey's  egg,  that  are  exceed- 
ingly pretty  and  attractive.  Select  the  largest  size,  make  a  hole  with  a  needle 
at  each  end,  and  blow  out  the  yolk  and  white.  Then  dip  the  egg  into  boiling 
water,  and  while  it  is  hot  cut  it  in  the  middle,  a  little  at  a  time,  for  fear  it  will 
crack  down  too  far.  Use  a  pair  of  small,  sharp  sissors.  For  a  covering  and 
c  rds  to  suspend  it,  take  scarlet,  green,  or  blue  split  zephyr  worsted,  and  either 
net  or  crochet  a  cover.  Use  a  fine  mesh  or  needle,  and  make  an  ornamental 
scolloped  edge  around  the  top.  Crochet  cords,  or  twist  them,  of  the  zephyr,  and 
hang  the  tiny  baskets  with  them.  Three  baskets  can  be  made  and  sewed  together, 
with  a  cord  attached  to  the  edge  of  each  shell.  A  different  vine  can  be  planted 
in  each  egg  shell.  Use  a  rich,  but  rather  sandy  soil,  and  the  vines  will  grow 
luxuriantly. 

The  same  device  can  be  suspended  from  the  chandelier  to  hold  cut  flowers, 
or  the  chains  can  be  omitted  and  the  baskets  be  used  as  vases 

Boys  or  girls  who  possess  any  ingenuity  can  construct  these  pretty  floral 
adornments  in  their  leisure  hours.  Money  is  not  always  required  for  their  man- 
ufacture, nor  need  those  who  live  in  the  country  apply  to  the  florists  for  plants 
to  fill  them;  for  the  fields  and  woods  contain  many  twining  vines  that  are  very 
suitable  for  them.  Almost  anything  will  do  for  a  basket — shells,  horns,  or  any- 
thing that  will  hold  earth,  have  been  used  for  the  purpose.  Even  turnips  and 
carrots  can  be  hollowed  out  and  made  to  hold  pretty  little  plants — so  no  one  need 
be  without  these  simple  floral  adornments  for  parlor  or  dining-room. 

Plants  for  Hanging  Baskets. 

Our  theme  is  now  a  more  pleasing  one,  for  how  infinite,  and  yet  indescribably 
beautiful,  are  some  of  the  combinations  of  plants  in  baskets  which  we  occasion- 
ally see. 

Take,  however,  from  us  one  general  word  of  advice  :  Do  not  crowd  in  too 
many  plants  of  upright  growth.  Usually  one  erect  plant  of  showy,  striking 
character,  should  be  used — say  a  Begonia  or  a  bright  flowering  Geranium  ;  then 
around  this  gather  your  plants,  of  great  variety,  but  lower  and  more  compact 
growth,  and  around  the  edge  plant  both  your  climbers  and  your  trailers.  If 
your  basket  is  to  hang  in  a  northern  or  eastern  window,  where  the  temperature 
is  lower  than  any  other  exposure,  you  will  have  to  choose  such  plants  as  the 
Lycopodiums,  Periwinkle,  and  Moneywort.  They  will  do  well  here,  for  they 
require  less  sunlight.  An  Ivy  will  do  well  anywhere,  so  you  may  consider  this 
your  safest  plant.  As  we  have  mentioned  before,  it  is  not  best  to  bring  your 
plants  immediately  from  the  outdoors  to  the  warm  air  of  the  living  room.  Do 
it  gradually,  by  first  bringing  the  basket,  after  it  is  filled,  into  a  cool  room  with 
plenty  of  light,  but  not  directly  from  the  sun.  Here  let  the  plants  get  well 
started,  and  after  two  or  three  weeks  you  may  bring  the  basket  into  the  parlor 
or  living  room. 


WINDOW    GARDENING.  ]  Q5 

In  making  your  choice  of  plants  avoid  the  costliest  favorites  of  the  green- 
house ;  i.  e.,  it  is  better  to  take  something  which  will  thrive  with  ordinary  cul- 
ture. Greenhouse  plants  need  more  care  than  the  window-gardener  can  usually 
give.  A  healthy  flowering  Geranium  is  more  popular  with  nine  out  of  ten  than 
a  Camellia,  and  is  in  proportion  as  much  easier  to  grow. 

A  great  trouble  among  amateurs  is  too  great  a  fancy  for  seed-grown  plants; 
i.  e.,  they  purchase  florists  seeds,  and  aim  to  grow  their  own  plants  by  sowing 
the  seed  in  the  basket.  It  is  hardly  necessary  to  say  failure  is  the  general  rule, 
except  in  the  case  of  a  few  climbing  plants,  which  will  grow  well  anywhere.  If 
the  amateur  does  not  know  enough  about  propagation  to  grow  his  own  plants,  it 
is  much  better  to  buy  them  already  started  from  a  good  florist. 

The  list  of  plants  may  be  arranged  in  several  very  distinct  dasses,  as  follows  : 

1 .  CLIMBING  VINES — 

The  Tropteolum  Lobbianum,  flowers  plentifully  in  winter,  and  its  brilliant  red 
flowers  are  very  attractive. 

The  Morning  Glory  will  grow  readily  in  a  sunny  window,  and  its  flowers  are 
indeed  a  glory.  A  small  vase  can  be  used  to  plant  the  seeds,  and  it  can  be  sus- 
pended with  ribbons. 

The  vine  of  the  -Sweet  Potato  is  very  graceful.  Quite  a  good  many  who  have 
admired  a  basket  covered  with  its  leaves  have  felt  a  little  chagrined  to  find  it  was 
nothing  after  all  but  a  Sweet  Potato  vine.  The  tubers  can  be  sec  into  a  glass 
small  enough  to  keep  the  root  three  or  four  inches  from  the  bottom.  Fill  the 
glass  with  water,  and  place  it  in  a  warm  room  ;  give  it  two  or  three  hours  of 
sunshine  each  day,  and  in  two  or  three  weeks  it  will  begin  to  grow.  All  through 
the  winter  it  will  continue  to  develop  its  glossy  green  leaves  in  profusion.  The 
Dixcorea  Batatas  is  the  best  species  for  home  culture. 

Among  other  climbing  plants  are  Senetio  scandcns,  (German  Ivy,)  a  very  free 
grower;  Lonicera  aurea  reticulata,  with  fine  yellow  variegated  foliage. 

There  are  no  finer  plants  in  general  to  be  used  than  the  Cobceas,  Maurandias, 
Lophospermurns,  and  Tropteoluin.  The  Variegated  Leaved  Coboea  is  a  great 
favorite,  either  to  dangle  from  a  basket  or  clothe  a  trellis. 

For  Drooping  or  Trailing  Plants  the  list  is  quite  extensive.  Lysimachia.  or 
Moneywort — old,  and  hardly  yet  superseded. 

Saxifragas,  Sect  urns, 

Linarits,  Lobelia, 

Yellow  Floicering  Gazanias,  Tradcscantia, 

Mimulus  moschatns,  Niereinbergia, 

Mimulus   tigrinoides,  Verbenas, 

Ice  Plant,  Mesembryanthemums, 

The  Partridge  Vine,  Dew  Plant. 

The  Strawberry  Vine  is  a  rapid  runner,  with  leaves  shaped  like  the  strawberry, 
but  much  smaller.  Its  flowers  are  white,  and  its  seed-pods  are  formed  of 
bright,  cherry-red  berries,  which  render  the  plant  very  ornamental. 

The  Cranberry  Vine  has  been  used  for  basket  purposes  with  great  success;  its 


1Q6  WINDOW  GARDENING. 

glossy,  bright  leaves,  pure  white  flovrers,  and  bright,  coral-hued  berries  making 
it  quite  an  acquisition  to  the  list  of  trailing  vines. 

The  Coliseum  Ivy  and  Smilax  are  used  perhaps  more  universally  than  any 
thing  else.  They  are  grown  from  seed  readily. 

The  Gazania  splendens  makes  a  hanging  basket  exquisite  in  beauty  ;  reaching 
down  one  to  two  feet  from  the  basket,  and  blooming  ten  times  better  than  it  does 
in  the  open  ground. 

Among  other  good  trailers  are  the  "Ivy-Leaved  Geranium,  Linaria  cymbalaria, 
or  common  toadflax,  Lysimachia,  Nummularia  Folea,  the  common  Moneywort, 
single  Petunias  of  free  habit,  Tradescantia  bicolor,  or  zebrina,  the  purple  and 
bronze  leaves  of  which  are  admirable  to  mix  with  the  trailing  stems  of  Vinca 
Elegantissima  and  the  variegated  Ivies. 

Of  the  Ivies,  Hedera  latifolia  maculata  is  really  superb  if  grown  in  a  poor 
soil,  in  moderate  shade,  and  abundantly  supplied  with  water  all  the  summer. 

Mesembryanthemums  do  far  better  in  hanging  baskets  than  in  pots,  but  are 
truly  splendid  plants  when  planted  in  a  rich,  sandy  soil,  with  plenty  of  drain- 
age, and  fully  exposed  to  the  blaze  of  summer  sunshine.  A  hot,  sunny  conser- 
vatory is  a  good  place  for  them. 

Mikania  scandens  will  clothe  a  basket  in  a  few  weeks  with  its  most  elegant 
foliage  of  light  green  hue,  and  rich  glistening  surface.  It  should  be  moderately 
shaded,  and  kept  in  a  cool  atmosphere. 

The  Polygonum  suaves,  somewhat  like  the  Dioscorea,  is  a  free  growing  trailer 
of  very  neat  habit,  producing  hundreds  of  little  flowers,  which  emit  a  powerful 
perfume. 

The  Sedum  Sieboldii  is  unsuitable  in  the  open  air.  "When  placed  in  baskets 
and  grown  under  glass,  or  in  the  conservatory,  it  will  spread  rapidly,  bearing  an 
abundance  of  its  chocolate-colored  flowers,  while  the  glauceous  hue  of  its  succu- 
lent leaves  presents  a  most  striking  appearance 

Plants  of  Upright  Groivth. 

Here  you  have  a  large  list  to  choose  from.  Usually  only  one  plant  should  be 
chosen  if  the  basket  is  of  moderate  size.  If  the  basket  is  very  capacious,  and 
you  are  bound  to  have  a  magnificent  collection,  you  may  combine  all  three 
classes,  climbing  or  trailing  plants,  or  those  of  upright  standard  growth. 

You  may  select  any  of  the  numerous  varieties  of  the  Fuchsia,  with  their  grace- 
ful, bending  drops  of  bloom.  Petunias,  single  or  double.  Heliotrope,  always 
agreeable  for  their  fragrance.  Carnations,  sweetly  scented,  blooming  freely 
every  month.  The  Neapolitan  Violet,  or  the  modest  yet  lovely  little  Chinese 
Primrose.  The  Cyclamen  Persicum,  with  its  curious  flowers  and  valuable 
foliage,  the  popular  Geranium.  The  Daphne  odorata,  which  will  fill  your 
room  with  its  sweet  odor ;  or  you  may  arrange  around  the  edges  of  the  vessel 
some  Hyacinths,  Crocuses  or  other  bulbs.  If  you  want  plants  of  ornamental 
foliage,  you  will  naturally  turn  to  some  of  the  numerous  varieties  of  graceful 
Ferns  or  Lycopodiums.  The  Dragon  plant  Dracaena  terminalis,  has  blood 


WINDOW  GARDENING. 


107 


red  foliage,  and  seems  to  be  used  more  often  than  any  other  as  a  single  plant. 
The  Begonias  and  Gesnerias  have  rich  velvety  leaves.  For  curiosity  you  may 
want  a  Cactus,  or  a  horseshoe  Geranium  ;  for  scent,  the  Lemon  or  Rose  Gera- 
nium, or  the  well  known  scented  Verbena,  or  the  Musk  plant.  The  little  Cigar 
plant  (Cuphea),  is  not  very  showy,  but  is  esteemed  for  its  constant  blooming 
qualities. 

Many  use  the  Coleus  and  Achyranthes,  when  young,  and  possessing  rich,  deli- 
cate shades,  they  contrast  well  with  their  crimson  or  purple  against  the  green  of 
other  plants,  producing  a  good  effect ;  but  they  soon  grow  too  tall  and  look  out  of 
place.  They  can,  however,  be  kept  pinched  back.  This  combination  of  color, 
either  by  contrast  or  harmony,  is  an  excellent  idea,  and  will  not  only  give 
each  plant  an  opportunity  to  display  its  peculiar  habit  of  growth,  but  a  novelty 
of  color,  likely  to  be  appreciated  by  everyone. 

Cissus  discolor,  leaves  silvery  white,  shaded  with  purple. 

Ficus  repens. 

Isolepis  junciodes,  ornamental  grass. 

Panicum  variegatum,  variegated  grass,  leaves  green,  striped  with  white  and 
rose  color. 

Poa   trivialis  argenta,  a  new  dwarf  grass,  variegated. 

Tradescantia  zebrina  and  virides. 

Vinca  elegantissima,  variegata. 

Selaginella  variegata. 

The  Ivy  Leaved  Geraniums  are  very  desirable,  and  L'Elegante  with  its  light 
green  leaves  margined  with  white  and  pink,  and  its  snowy  white  flowers,  would 
be  a  gem  for  any  window.  This  class  of  Geraniums  are  all  of  a  low  spreading 
or  trailing  habit,  hanging  down  and  flowering  freely. 

Myoporum  parvifolium,  a  very  neat  trailer,  bearing  small  white  flowers  in 
autumn,  winter,  or  spring. 

Monochaetum,  is  a  beautiful  winter  flowering  plant,  but  will  require  tying 
down  at  first,  and  then  will  trail  nicely  over  the  basket. 

Ferns. — These  form  plants  of  permanent  growth  and  habit,  very  suitable  for 
hanging  baskets.  The  soil  needed  for  them  to  grow  in,  is  equal  parts  of  peat, 
loam,  and  sand,  with  some  broken  crockery  mixed  with  it.  One  of  the  finest 
ferns  for  the  basket  is  the  Polypodium  vulgare,  or  common  Polypody.  This 
may  be  grown,  if  desired,  in  nearly  all  moss,  with  the  addition  of  only  a  very 
slight  portion  of  soil. 

The  Asplenium  flaccidum,  is  esteemed  one  of  the  handsomest,  having  a  beau- 
tiful drooping  habit,  and  yet  producing  little  young  ferns  all  over  the  old  fronds. 
Place  this  in  the  centre  of  the  basket,  and  display  it  so  that  its  branches  will 
show  over  the  sides,  with  their  bright  lively  green,  and  they  will  look  extremely 
beautiful,  fully  justifying  this  as  one  of  the  best  in  cultivation. 

Pteris  serrulata,  and  P.  rotundifolia,  are  easily  grown,  have  a  good  habit, 
and  pro^e  to  be  very  good  Ferns  for  the  basket. 


]  Q$  WINDOW  GARDENING. 

The  true  Maiden's  Hair  Fern,  (Adiantum  capillus  Ftnm's),  by  spreading  at 
the  roots  will  soon  cover  the  surface  of  a  basket. 

The  Asplenium    lanceolatun  and  A.  marinum,  are  also  spreaders. 

Ferns  will  always  be  beautiful  plants  for  window  culture  on  account  of  their 
delicate  outline  and  tasteful  droop  of  their  branches.  Every  amateur,  however, 
will  do  well  to  begin  with  two  or  three  at  first,  and  then  study  the  rest  gradu- 
ally until  he  becomes  familiar  with  their  general  characteristics.  In  watering 
Ferns,  use  warm  water  only,  they  will  require  it  frequently  also,  for  Ferns  are 
natives  of  moist  situations  and  latitudes  ;  to  most  of  them  the  dry  air  of  a  warm 
room  is  often  injurious;  closed  cases  are  best. 

The  following  trailing  Ferns  are  suited  for  hanging  baskets  :  Nothoclaena 
tenera,  Davallia  pentaphylla,  Fadyema  prolifera,  Adiantwn  cordatum. 

The  list  of  plants  for  baskets  is  endless;  you  are  never  at  lack  what  to  choose. 
You  may  begin  with  one  plant,  but  as  you  become  more  acquainted  with  the 
nature  of  each  plant,  and  learn  their  habits,  you  will  love  them  so  dearly  as  to 
sigh  because  you  have  not  room  for  more. 

Hoiv  to  arrange  Plants  in  the  Baskets. 

We  offer  several  plans  of  how  to  fi!l  a  number  of  baskets  easily  : 
No.  1. — A  fine  low  standard  for  a  small  hanging  basket  is  the  Primula  Sinensis 
(Chinese  Primrose),  bearing  white  or  crimson  flowers.  Soil — two  parts  garden 
mould. and  one  part  sand  Water  often,  but  slightly.  Raise  from  seed  or 
division  of  the  root,  in  sandy  soil.  Take  offsets  from  old  roots  in  May,  re-set 
them  in  fresh  soil  and  keep  the  pots  in  the  shade  until  September.  Gloxinias — 
flowers  of  rose  color  or  crimson — make  a  fine  display  in  similar  pots.  They 
need  the  same  soil  as  the  Primula.  Water  scantily,  except  when  in  bloom. 
Propagate  by  division  of  the  roots,  or  a  single  leaf  set  in  damp  sand.  Just 
within  the  edge  of  the  pot  set  Lysimachia  nummularia  (Moneywort),  Nepeta 
£l?coma  (Ground  Ivy  or  Gill  run  over  the  ground),  or  Coliseum  vines.  These  have 
yellow,  blue,  white  flowers.  They  will  throw  out  trailers  three  or  four  feet 
long.  Twine  some  of  these  around  the  chains  or  cords  that  sustain  the 
basket. 

No.  2. — Tn  the  same  sort  of  pots  and  soil,  with  the  same  drooping  plant,  Cyc- 
lamen punctatum,  or  C  Persicum — flowers  white,  pink  or  purplish — are  very 
pretty.  Or  a  root  or  offshoot  of  Mesembryanthemum  crystallinum  (Ice-plant), 
whose  stems  and  leaves,  when  the  sun  shines  upon  them,  glitter  as  if  covered 
with  pearls  and  diamonds.  One  of  these  plants  will  soon  spread  over  the  sur- 
face and  hang  prettily  around  the  basket.  The  flowers  arc  small — pale  crim- 
son or  white.  Or  two  or  three  Verbenas — white,  scarlet  and  maroon,  or  white, 
pink,  and  purple — spreading  and  drooping,  and  creeping  and  climbing  as  they 
choose;  they  flourish  much  better  thus  than  when  trained  and  trimmed.  Start 
new  plants  from  seed,  or  small  branches,  every  June.  Keep  them  rather  dry 
and  shaded,  till  September,  then  give  them  plenty  of  sunshine  and  increase 
the  water,  but  never  water  them  very  freely 


WTXD  OW  GA  RDENIXG .  ]  Q  Q 

No  3. — In  baskets  of  the  same  size — six  inches ;  but  in  good  garden  soil 
only— set  a  Nierembergia  gracilis,  with  its  slender  stems  and  fine  foliage  and 
pretty  white  or  lilac  flowers,  together  with  a  Mahernia  odorata,  of  similar  habits 
and  foliage,  with  blossoms  of  pale  yellow,  very  fragrant ;  and  a  Lobelia  cceles- 
tina,  or  L.  gracilis,  with  its  tiny  leaves  and  delicate  white  or  blue  flowers,  that 
will  droop  over  the  basket's  rim.  Start  these  plants  and  treat  them  like  Ver- 
benas, or  Petunias  ol  various  shades,  giving  them  the  same  treatment  and 
allowing  them  to  grow  as  they  choose,  like  Verbenas.  Or  three  or  four  bulbs 
of  Oxalis,  which,  if  started  in  August,  after  three  months  of  complete  rest  in  a 
dry  state,  will  fill  and  cover  the  whole  basket  with  their  foliage  and  flowers 
from  November  till  April  or  May.  The  varieties  bearing  white,  scarlet  and 
yellow,  make  a  pretty  group,  or  pink  and  white,  and  purple. 

No.  4. — Baskets  a  foot  in  diameter,  filled  with  the  same  soil,  may  hold  a 
Zonale  geranium — Tom  Thumb,  Fire  King,  of  Mrs.  Pollock ;  or  Mountain  of 
Snow,  with  its  white-bordered  leaves — and  an  Ivy-leaved  geranium  to  climb  up 
the  handles;  with  a  Maurandia,  a  Solanum,  or  two  or  three  Vincas  to  trail 
around  the  brim  and  about  the  basket.  Raise  these  all  from  branches  rooted 
in  sand  under  glass  in  May.  Water  frequently,  but  sparingly,  till  in  bud,  then 
give  the  fertilizer  mentioned  in  a  previous  chapter,  and  plenty  of  water. 

No.  5. — "A  happy  family,"  to  fill  a  very  large  basket  of  good  garden  soil, 
should  have  one  of  the  geraniums  above  mentioned  for  its  centre  ;  a  Euphorbia, 
with  silvery  foliage  ;  Coleus,  maroon  or  bronze  ;  a  Bouvardia,  scarlet  flowers ;  a 
Sanguinaria,  white  flowers,  and  mignonette  and  alyssum,  with  moneywort,  ground 
ivy,  Irish  ivy,  Madeira  vine,  Solanum  and  Maurandia  for  climbers  and  trailers. 
Raise  the  standard  plants  from  slips  or  branches  rooted  in  wet  sand,  under  glass, 
in  May  or  June.  Transfer  them  to  the  basket  in  September,  and  at  the  same 
time  set  with  them  cuttings  of  the  vines.  Keep  the  basket  in  the  shade,  and 
water  it  scantily  for  a  month  ;  then  give  it  the  full  sunshine  and  water  enough 
to  keep  the  soil  from  crumbling.  When  buds  appear  on  any  of  the  plants,  give 
it  the  fertilizer  once  a  week  for  two  months.  Be  sure  that  the  air  of  the  room 
in  which  it  hangs  is  moist  by  the  evaporation  of  water  upon  the  stove  or  fur- 
nace, and  open  the  window  near  by  twice  a  week  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour, 
shielding  the  plants  from  the  draught  by  newspapers  pinned  into  cone  shape 
around  the  basket.  With  this  management  the  "  happy  family  "  will  be  your 
pride  and  delight. 


no 


WI.VD 0  W    GA  RDENINQ. 


Pnwne  for  an  Ivied  Garden  or  Conservatory 


CHAPTER  XI. 

THE  IVY  FOR  DECORATIVE  PURPOSES. 

The  Ivy  might  be  called  the  poor  man's  vine,  for,  like  the  Wilson  Strawberry, 
it  will  grow  for  almost  every  one.  It  is  the  easiest  of  all  the  vines  for  indoor 
use,  both  in  growing  and  for  training,  and  not  a  little  of  its  merits  as  a  favorite 
window  plant  are  its  permanency,  for  it  will  live  long  in  one  pot  without  change 
of  soil  or  position.  It  accommodates  itself  to  all  temperatures  save  that  below 
freezing,  and  when  in  full  growth  it  adds  more  grace  to  the  window  than  any 
plant  yet  used. 

The  English  Ivy  (Iledera  helix)  is  what  is  styled  a  rooted  climber,  as  from 
every  little  joint  roots  will  spring  out  and  take  hold  of  any  support.  This  is 
one  great  advantage  of  value  over  other  climbing  vines  which  must  be  trained. 

It  is  hardly  adapted  to  our  severe  wintry  climate,  and  will  not  live  out  of 
doors  unless  covered  with  straw.  This  renders  its  use  for  windows  a  necessity, 
and  who  that  has  ever  gazed  upon  its  glossy  green  leaves,  drooping  with  long 
garlands  of  graceful  verdure,  but  has  felt  it  well  deserved  to  be  named  the  most 
beautiful  of  all  drawing-room  plant  decorations.  A  writer  speaks  of  the  affec- 
tion with  which  it  is  esteemed  in  German  houses :  "  It  becomes  as  one  of  the 
family.  Sometimes  the  whole  side  of  a  parlor  is  covered  with  it,  and  twining 
around  over  picture  frames,  or  looped  about  brackets,  drooped  over  statuettes, 
the  portraits  of  father,  mother,  and  cherished  friend,  look  forth  smiling  from 
the  leafy  environment.  Small  articles  of  vertu  gleam  here  and  there,  touched 
with  it,  framed  about  mirrors  or  doors,  each  heart-shaped  dark  evergreen  leaf, 
instinct  with  loveliness,  adds  to  them  all  increased  beauty.  Wherever  it  goes  it 
makes  a  green,  perpetual  summer  of  indoor  life." 

Another  writer,  viewing  it  in  a  poetic  view,  says:  "A  single  root  has  been 
known  to  wreathe  a  bow  window  with  thick  garlands,  and  then  strike  off  into 
lovely,  independent  paths  along  picture  cords  and  above  cornices,  till  the  room 
seemed  all  a-bud,  like  Aaron's  rod.  It  will  cover  a  screen  of  wire,  curtain  » 
curtainless  window,  festoon  a  pillar,  frame  a  favorite  picture,  (and  what  more 
graceful  or  delicate  frame  could  be  desired  ?)  arch  a  door,  climb  and  twist  about 
a  window-sill,  and  swing  in  long-looped  tendrils  from  a  bracket.  There  is  no 
end  to  its  beautiful  uses. 

"  Tickle  it  with  a  little  guano,  and  how  it  frolics.  Nip  off  the  terminal  shoots, 
and  lo,  two  bright,  persistent  tendrils  shoot  forth,  and  curl  and  twine  about  your 
very  fingers.  Wash  its  dusty  leaves,  and  no  child  could  look  more  gratefully  in 
your  face.  It  harbors  no  vermin,  encourages  no  blight,  but  steadily  and  sweetlj 


112 


WIND OW   GA RDEN1XG. 


keeps  its  daily  course.  •  It  is  a  decorative  artist  of  high  ability;  a  companion, 
a  friend." 

Notwithstanding  this  poetic  imagery,  it  must  be  admitted  its  presence,  with 


Fig.  14.— Ail  Ivied  Staircase. 

its  entwining,  luxuriant  foliage,  gives  a  refreshing  and  pleasant  IOOK  to  every 
apartment; ;  of  uncounted  worth  is  it  in  homes  where  garden  facilities  are  few  or 
none,  and  a  sprig  of  green  is  considered  equal  to  the  nobleman's  wide,  rural 
•estate 


WINDOW  GARDENING.  1[& 

The  Ivy  requires  rich  soil  in  which  to  grow,  and  must  have  strong  food. 

"  Of  right  choice  food  are  its  meals,  I  ween." 

You  must  therefore  select  for  it  the  best  soil  which  your  garden  can  afford ;  add 
to  it  one-half  each  of  well-decayed  manure  and  leaf  mould  rubbed  together ; 
then  set  the  pan  of  compost  in  the  oven  and  bake  it,  if  you  wish  to  kill  all  larvae 
of  worms  and  white  ants. 

Plant  the  roots  in  Large,  well-drained  pots,  with  an  inch  or  two  of  bits  of  char- 
coal at  the  bottom,  and  as  the  roots  increase  transfer  them  to  larger-sized  pots  or 
buckets.  The  Ivy  will  grow  in  wood  vessels  as  well  as  pottery,  and  pails  or 
buckets  painted  green  can  be  made  to  do  duty  for  the  pots. 

Should  the  roots  appear  to  be  too  thickly  crowded  in  too  small  a  pot,  run  a 
knife  around  the  edge  of  the  soil  and  turn  over  the  ball  of  earth.  If  this  is  so. 
cut  off  a  few  of  the  outer  ones,  and  then  repot  in  rich  soil  in  a  little  larger 
vessel. 

The  Ivy  seems  to  be  the  least  sensitive  to  changes  of  light  of  any  plant  we 
hnve;  neither  does  it  require  much  heat,  thus  being  exceedingly  well  adapted  to 
situations  in  halls  or  balconies,  or  rooms  not  very  well  heated.  Figure  14  shows 
how  it  may  be  of  great  service  in  decorating  a  hall,  the  brackets  holding  the  pots 
being  fastened  to  the  side  of  the  wall,  and  the  ivy  permitted  to  climb  up  both 
Wall  and  porch. 

If  planted  in  pots  and  trained  to  stakes,  they  can  be  readily  moved  from  one 
window  to  another,  or  from  one  room  to  another ;  it  is  much  the  most  con- 
venient method  to  have  the  Ivy  in  some  portable  form. 

Like  all  other  plants,  however,  it  must  have  a  uniform  temperature,  and  though 
it  will  bear  a  little  chilling  without  much  injury,  yet  it  should  be  kept  where 
there  is  some  degree  of  warmth. 

It  delights  in  considerable  moisture,  and  if  neglected  or  p;>»  mitted  to  dry  up, 
its  luxuriance  soon  suffers  ;  hence,  a  saucer  or  pan  should  be  kept  full  of  water, 
ready  at  any  time  for  its  use. 

During  the  spring  and  summer  months  the  pots  of  Ivy  are  often  carried  to  the 
outer  air,  and  placed  on  the  balcony  or  under  a  tree  in  the  lawn  or  garden.  Here 
they  might  be  reglected ;  so  we  again  repeat  our  caution :  do  not  forget  the 
water. 

When  brought  into  the  house  the  leaves  should  be  carefully  washed  with  soap- 
suds and  water ;  all  unsightly  branches  and  torn  leaves  removed. 

Ivies  for  the  house  should  be  brought  in  before  November,  or  even  before  it  is 
time  to  build  the  fire.  Place  first  in  a  cool  room,  and  then  bring  gradually  into 
the  warmer  room. 

When  placed  where  they  are  to  stand,  the  vines  should  be  gracefully  arranged, 
and  secured  by  small  strings  to  the  wood-work,  or  to  the  curtain  by  bits  of  green 
worsted  braid.  The  green  creeping  foliage  is  a  fine  contrast  to  the  whiteness  of 
the  delicate  lace  curtain. 

Vines  can  be  grown  by  immersing  the  stems  in  small  vials  of  water,  and  fast- 
ening them  to  the  backs  of  picture  frames  they  are  desired  to  ornament.  With 

8 


114 


WIND  0\V   GA  RD  EX  ING. 


a  number  of  vials  quite  a  luxuriant  growth  can  be  imitated,  but  care  must  be 
had  to  keep  the  vials  filled  with  water.  At  intervals,  two  or  three  bits  of  char- 
coal may  be  added  to  sweeten  and  purify. 

A  good  illustration  of  how  a  pic- 
ture frame  may  thus  be  decorated 
is  afforded  in  figure  15,  showing  a 
looking-glass  with  rustic  frame,  and 
the  Ivy  twining  around  it.  In  this 
case  no  vials  are  used,  but  a  very 
unique  and  convenient  receptacle, 
shown  in  figure  1G.  Usually  all  our 
frames  hang  forward  a  little  at  the 
top  from  the  wall,  and  leave  an 
open  space.  This  receptacle  fits  into 
this  open  space  at  the  back  of  the 
top  of  the  frame,  and  is  very  neatly 
concealed.  To  make  this  successful 
the  frame  should  be  of  good  size. 
The  receptacle  is  wedge-shaped, 
and  made  of  zinc  by  any  tinsmith, 
and  of  the  right  length  and  diame- 
ter to  fit  in  behind.  After  filling 
with  earth  plant  the  Ivy,  and  let 
its  leaves  ramble  over  and  down  the 
frame. 

Such  a  frame  should  not  be  hung 
near  a  fireplace,  for  the   heat  and 
dust  would  hinder  the  growth  of 
Fig.  is.— An  ivied  Picture  Frame.  the  plant  very  materially.  If  it  can 

face  a  north  or  east  window  it  is  best  situated.  "Water  should 
be  given  daily  at  the  same  time  the  other  plants  usually  receive 
this  attention — by  night  or  early  morning.  Note  one  thing,  in 
filling  this  pan,  to  remember  to  place  a  few  bits  of  crockery  at 
the  bottom,  to  secure  efficient  drainage.  Avoid  giving  a  surfeit 
of  water, 

A  very  novel  style  of  ornament  is  afforded  in  Fig.  17,  designed 
for  a  portable  screen  of  Ivy.  This  is  a  box  made  very  similar 
to  those  for  the  window,  of  a  length  varying  from  three  to  six 
feet,  and  one  to  two'  feet  wide,  mounted  on  castors.  A  number 
of  laths  of  wood,  neatly  and  smoothly  planed,  are  nailed  cross- 
ways,  and  fastened  upright  at  the  back  of , the  box.  Usually  the 
height  is  about  four  to  four  and  a,  half  feet.  The  entire  box  and 
lattice-work  should  be  painted  green :  then  when  dried  fill  the  box  Fig.  16 .—Receptacle 

for  Ivy. 


WINDOW   GARDENING. 


115 


with  mould,  and  set  in  the  Ivy  plants,  which,  when  well  started,  will  soon  cover 
the  trellis  completely. 

If  desired,  the  front  of  the  box  may  be  ornamented  by  planting  thickly  Lily 
of  the  Valley  or  Primulas,  or  Mignionette,  sown  in  the  summer.  Other 
climbing  vines  may  be  introduced  either  with  the  Ivy,  or  in  place  of  it, 
such  as  the  Morning  Glory,  Woodbine,  Clematis.  The  box  is  an  ornament  in 
any  position  where  placed,  either  before  the  window,  or  across  the  corner  of  the 
room,  and  the  capacity  of  the  box  also  affords  opportunity  for  growing  many 
choice  standard  parlor  plants,  Fuchsias,  Geraniums,  &c.  Mr.  Robinson  states 
that  such  screens  are  used  to  a  great  extent  in  Parisian  saloons  and  drawing- 
rooms,  and  in  one  instance  saw  them  in  quite  a  row,  beautifully  used  to  embel- 
lish crystal  partitions  between  large  apartments. 


Fig.  17. — Ornamental  Screen  of  Ivy. 

One  day  in  his  rambles  he  came  upon  a  wine  shop  in  an  obscure  part  of  Pans, 
where  the  window  was  decorated  with  the  Ivy;  on  going  in,  he  found  it  planted 
in  a  rough  box  against  the  wall,  up  which  it  had  crept,  and  was  growing  above  as 
carelessly  as  if  in  a  wood.  At  another  time,  at  the  Court  of  Versailles,  in  the 
porter's  lodge,  he  witnessed  the  deep  interest  which  the  fat  porter  and  his  wife 
took  in  Cacti,  &c.,  and  their  nice  collection  of  other  things,  but  more  particu- 
larly at  the  sumptuous  display  of  Ivy,  which  hung  from  over  the  mantelpiece. 
It  was  planted  in  a  deep  recess,  and  tumbled  out  its  abundant  tresses  almost  as 
if  depending  from  a  Kerry  rock  in  its  native  home. 


116  WINDOW   GARDENING. 

But  its  most  successful  use  is  in  the  hanging  basket.  Here  at  home  it  climbs, 
and  swings,  and  droops  at  will,  thriving  and  twining  until  the  arms  of  the  basket 
are  hidden  in  the  dense  verdure.  Probably  no  cheaper  style  of  hanging  baskets 
can  be  obtained  than  this,  and  surely  none  will  last  as  long. 

Another  charming  use  to  which  the  Ivy  can  be  put  is  to  twine  it  around  an 
Easel  in  the  parlor.  Take  a  small  rustic  jardinet,  such  as  are  figured  in  one  of 
the  chapters  of  Part  I,  fill  with  earth,  plant  in  it  a  good  strong  root  of  the  Ivy, 
and  then  twine  its  long  tendrils  around  the  edges  of  the  Easel,  and  let  it  droop 
from  the  top  over  the  picture  placed  on  the  rest  beneath.  It  forms  one  of  the 
finest  of  draperies  and  borders  for  any  art  engraving,  portrait  or  painting.  Little 
brackets  of  it  may  be  filled  like  Fig.  13,  in  chapter  10,  and  fastened  in  the 
centre  of  the  side  of  any  room,  and  while  the  Ivy  itself  may  droop,  there  may  be 
placed  ferns  or  pressed  autumn  leaves  above  to  help  the  effect  with  .  their  gay 
colors. 

Those  cuttings  which  have  rooted  in  water  during  the  winter  will  need  more 
plant  food  than  this  will  supply.  So  in  the  spring,  either  plant  them  in  the 
open  border,  or  place  them  in  pots,  with  soil,  and  they  will  soon  become  large 
plants. 

Eight  to  ten  large  pots  of  Ivy  trained  over  stakes  and  trellises,  are  at  times 
used  by  some  to  ornament  a  single  room. 

Hanging  baskets  are  sometimes  constructed  entirely  without  soil — holding  only 
moss.  A  quantity  of  vials  are  filled  with  water  and  placed  therein  so  as  to  be 
well  concealed ;  slips  of  Ivy  are  inserted  in  some  of  these  vials;  Ferns  are  inter 
spersed  in  other  bottles,  and  cut  flowers  added  to  others  ;  brilliant  autumn  leaves 
pressed  and  varnished  are  added  here  and  there.  All  combined  make  a  very 
choice  parlor  ornament.  The  only  care  needed  is  to  keep  the  water  replenished 
as  long  as  it  will  last. 

In  the  previous  chapter  on  hanging  baskets  may  be  seen  a  design  of  a  very 
handsome  combination  of  Ferns  and  climbing  Ivy,  in  Fig.  4,  and  in  Fig.  11,  is  a 
sketch  of  the  Ivy  as  we  see  it  in  its  most  familiar  habits  of  growth.  The  bowl 
is  an  earthen  one,  such  as  now  are  imported  and  found  on  sale  at  most  floral 
stores.  A  single  cutting  has  been  placed  in  here,  and  now  it  is  branching  out 
ward  vigorously. 

The  directions  for  propagating  Ivy  from  slips  or  cuttings,  are  very  simple. 
Take  a  young,  tender  branchlet,  cut  about  three  inches  in  length,  and  insert  half 
an  inch  of  its  stem  in  wet  sand,  or  soil,  under  a  bell  glass  or  tumbler.  Keep 
the  soil  well  moistened,  and  yet  warm,  by  placing  it  in  the  sunshine  for  fully  a 
week.  Then  loosen  the  sand,  withdraw  the  stem,  and  if  rootlets  have  started, 
put  immediately  in  a  pot  of  good  garden  earth,  mixed  with  one-third  its  quan- 
tity of  sand  Press  the  soil  firmly  about  this  young  plant,  to  the  same  height 
as  the  sand  reached  before,  cover  with  the  bell  glass  again,  and  set  in  the  shade 
for  a  week,  then  set  the  glass  aside  and  bring  to  the  sunshine.  It  should  bo 
watered  frequently,  but  only  just  enough  to  keep  it  from  wilting  Early  in 
June,  if  it  has  grown  too  long,  trim  off  the  large  branches,  set  it  out  doors  in 


WINDOW  GARDENING. 

the  garden,  then  in  September,  again  put  it  in  a  large  pot  with  newer  soil,  bring 
to  a  cool  and  shady  room  at  first,  then  gradually  bring  it  to  the  heat. 

There  are  several  varieties  of  the  Ivy,  commonly  grown  by  all  gardeners. 
The  Hedera,  helix  is  the  English  Ivy,  the  common  outdoor  climbing  variety, 
found  in  all  parts  of  Europe.  It  is  of  slow  growth,  two  feet  a  year  out  doorg 
being  considered  good  progress.  It  needs  water  more  freely  than  any  of  the 
other  sorts,  for  drouth  is  death  to  it.  It  may  be  propagated  by  first  cutting 
slips,  then  rooting  them  in  bottles  of  water,  and  afterward  transferring  with 
sand. 

The  Hedera  Canariensis,  is  the  Irish  Ivy,  slightly  larger  than  the  others ; 
leaves  five  lobed.  Will  thrive  in  a  cool,  shady,  and  close  room.  Too  great 
exposure  to  the  heat  of  the  sun  will  cause  the  leaves  to  turn  purple,  or  ripen 
too  quickly ;  yet  it  will  seldom  blossom  without  sunshine.  The  flower  is  very 
ordinary,  and  it  is  more  to  be  prized  for  its  elegant  light  green  foliage,  which  are 
thrown  out  from  its  luxuriant  shoots. 

The  German  Ivy  is  not  properly  of  this  family,  but  its  botanical  name  is 
Senecio  Scandens.  This  grows  much  more  rapidly  than  either  of  the  above,  has 
lighter  green  leaves,  and  is  entirely  free  from  troublesome  insects.  Its  branches 
trail  in  long  festoons.  "Whether  grown  in  the  hanging  basket,  or  over  the  win- 
dow, it  will  soon  wreath  it  with  its  leafy  canopy.  It  may  be  trained  as  a  pyra- 
mid by  inserting  stakes  in  the  pots,  and  then  letting  the  vine  curve  around 
toward  the  top,  or  it  may  be  trained  as  an  umbrella,  or  bushes,  or  on  a  semi- 
circle, or  any  form  that  the  frame  is  made  to  take.  Its  easy  propagation — for 
every  slip  will  take  root —  quick  growth,  have  made  it  a  favorite  with  every 
one. 

Another  variety  called  the  Coliseum  Ivy,  (Linaria  cymbalaria,*)  is  also  popu- 
lar. It  grows  in  slender  purplish  stems,  having  small  green  leaves  with  purple 
linirgs,  and  its  flowers  are  like  those  of  the  Antirrhinum,  but  are  very  minute, 
being  of  lilac,  white  and  yellow  tints,  mingled  together.  It  grows  in  cracks  or 
crevices  of  old  buildings,  and  the  roof  of  the  grand  Cathedral  at  Milan,  is  thickly 
overgrown  with  it  in  patches.  It  seeds  plentifully,  sows  itself,  and  is  also  most 
easily  propagated  by  cuttings.  The  soil  most  suitable  for  it  is  light  sandy  loam, 
yet  it  does  not  endure  much  moisture  or  dampness. 

There  are  still  a  dozen  or  fifteen  other  varieties  to  be  obtained  in  this  country, 
each  peculiar  in  itself,  yet,  the  variegated  varieties,  marginata,  argentea,  &c.,  are 
the  most  desirable.  They  exist  in  many  different  forms,  all  variously  margined 
with  creamy,  silver,  or  yellow  colors — on  the  leaves.  They  are  used  either  for 
climbers  on  the  walls,  or  in  beds,  as  margins.  They  do  best  when  fully  ex- 
posed to  the  sunshine,  and  in  a  comparatively  poor  soil.  Under  the  name  of 
Silver  Edge  Ivy,  the  argentea  has  been  used  for  edging  flower  beds  and  for  ter- 
race gardens,  having  a  broad  margin  of  silvery  white,— other  varieties  have  three 
colors,  white,  green,  and  rose,  or  yellow. 

The  list  of  varieties  exceeds  fifty  in  number,  some  producing  gigantic  leaves 
of  thick  texture,  others  white  or  golden  berries,  some  richly  variegated,  others 


WINDOW   GARDENING. 


with  small  leaves  of  deepest  purple.  They  form  a  study  of  deepest  interest, 
and  many  should  be  better  known;  yet  strange  to  say,  in  the  majority  of  the 
florists  Catalogues,  a  few  only  are  mentioned  for  popular  cultivation,  theGermau 
the  Coliseum,  and  the  variegated  U  elegante. 


CHAPTER  XII. 

CLUIBING  VINES — BALCONY  GARDENING. 

What  delicate  taste  and  suggestive  beauty  seem  gathered  up  in  the  associations 
of  climbing  vines. 

Helps  to  Home  Adornment  we  have  often  called  them,  and  the  fairy  fingers 
who  twine  them  around  their  parlor  windows,  or  along  the  piazza,  or  on  the  rus- 
tic trellis  before  the  cottage  door,  will  tell  you  how  well  they  appreciate  their 
value  in  making  home  so  pleasant.  Climbing  vines  afford  us  an  opportunity  of 
clothing  not  the  outside  of  the  window  alone,  but  its  inside  also,  with  verdure 
and  decorations  of  greenery,  for  our  imagination  must  now  include,  as  part  of 
the  domain  of  house-gardening,  the  ornature  of  the  outside  of  the  window, 
piazza,  or  balcony,  as  well  as  the  interior.  Ideas  of  refinement,  taste  and  beauty, 
are  invariably  suggested  by  the  presence  of  climbing  vines.  Let  the  corners  of 
our  houses,  or  the  edges  of  our  windows,  be  hid  under  the  delicate  foliage  or 
brilliant  flowers,  and  their  natural  festoons  of  mingled  verdure  and  bloom  will 
soften  the  most  gloomy  surroundings. 

Our  new  built  houses,  with  all  their  architectural  finish  and  imposing  design, 
still  lack  the  last  softening  polish  which  comes  only  from  the  mellowing  and 
genial  touch  of  the  vine.  The  first  thing  to  be  considered  in  growing  vines 
indoors  is  the  soil.  Bulbous  plants  require  light  and  very  loose  soil.  Short, 
fibrous  roots  need  a  firm,  fine  soil.  Long  and  spreading  roots  need  a  heavier  and 
coarser  soil  than  others.  For  most  plants  good  garden  loam,  loosened,  when 
necessary,  by  mixing  with  it  street  sand  or  gravel,  and  enriched  by  the  application 
of  a  liquid  stimulant  answers  very  well.  To  make  this  stimulant,  mix  half  a 
peck  of  stable  manure  or  street  sweepings,  with  a  quart  of  pulverized  charcoal, 
in  a  three-gallon  vessel,  and  fill  up  the  vessel  with  soft  water.  After  it  has 
stood  a  week  the  vessel  will  be  ready  for  use.  It  should  be  clear.  Water  your 
plants  with  this  three  days  consecutively,  once  in  three  weeks,  during  their  ear- 
liest growth  and  blooming.  It  should  be  perfectly  odorless ;  if  not,  then  add 
more  charcoal.  As  the  liquid  becomes  more  exhausted  add  more  water.  This 
quantity  of  fertilizing  material  will  supply  stimulant  enough  for  two  dozen  large 
plants  during  six  months. 

If  you  can  obtain  leaf  mould — the  fine,  dark  soil  from  the  woods — take  this 
for  a  third  ingredient  of  your  soil.  It  will  prove,  also,  quite  as  nutritive  as  this 
fertilizer.  If  fertilizing  liquids  are  used,  they  must  be  applied  directly  to  the 
soil;  but  when  water  only  is  used,  the  whole  plant  should  be  showered  with  it, 
if  possible. 


120  WINDOW  GARDENING 

In  selecting  our  list  we  have  regard  naturally  to  those  which  are  most  rapid 
growers. 

First  on  the  list  is  Coboea  scandens.  It  is  an  old  favorite,  and  it  is  worthy  of 
remark,  that  but  few  of  the  novelties  introduced  of  late  years  can  equal  some 
of  the  "old  favorites"  which  we  have  long  been  accustomed  to  grow. 

The  vine  is  named  from  Cobo,  a  Spanish  priest,  who  first  cultivated  it  in  Mex- 
ico, where  he  found  it  growing  wild,  and  rambling  in  full  luxuriance  and  beauty. 
A  new  variety  of  this  vine,  (Coboea  scandens  folius  variegata)  is  much  the  most 
suitable  for  in-door  culture. 

The  growth  of  the  vine  is  very  rapid,  and  it  is  equally  easy  of  cultivation ;  the 
only  essentials  to  success  being  warmth,  a  rich,  though  light  soil,  and  sufficient 
water.  If  allowed  to  become  very  dry  it  will  wither  away.  It  requires  sun  and 
a  warm  room  for  it  to  grow  in  perfection ;  yet  it  is  not  a  tender  plant ;  i.  e.t  it 
will  live  anywhere,  provided  the  frost  does  not  touch  it,  and  is  one  of  the  few 
plants  which  will  flourish  luxuriantly  in  parlors  lighted  with  gas  and  kept  at 
almost  fever  heat. 

If  grown  in  a  hanging  basket  or  pot,  it  must  be  large,  and  the  roots  allowed 
plenty  of  room  to  spread  out  in.  In  the  summer  the  pots  can  be  removed  from 
the  interior  room  to  a  balcony  or  piazza,  or  plunged  into  the  ground  until  they  are 
again  wanted.  Then  clip  off  the  growth  of  branches  and  leaves ;  place  the  pot 
back  again  in  a  sunny  window,  where  it  will  soon  start  forth  afresh,  with  new 
leaves  and  arms  to  cover  the  window 

Its  flowers  are  two  inches  long,  and  bell-shaped.  At  first  their  coloring  is  of 
a  greenish  hue,  but  it  changes  to  a  rich  bluish-purple,  and  will  continue  in  bloom 
for  a  week  or  more.  Its  calyx  is  large,  and  the  long  stamens  seemingly  grow  at 
one  side  of  it,  giving  to  the  flower  much  grace.  It  is  easily  raised  from  cuttings 
and  seeds.  The  latter  require  some  special  care.  If  planted  in  the  open  ground 
they  will  generally  decay ;  hence,  pot  or  hot-bed  culture  is  necessary.  Usually 
the  seeds  are  sown  in  March  or  April  in  light,  rich  soil,  in  pots,  warmed  with 
a  gentle  heat.  After  they  have  started,  the  young  plants,  when  two  inches  high, 
are  potted  separately  into  small  pots,  and  when  they  have  grown  about  a  foot 
high  are  carried  to  the  place  where  they  are  to  remain  Usually  there  is  no  dif- 
ficulty in  the  greenhouse  or  conservatory,  where  they  are  produced  abundantly. 
Amateurs  who  cannot  propagate  them  will  do  well  to  buy  them  from  the  florist 
already  started. 

It  is  one  of  the  best  of  vines  for  parlor  decoration,  as  it  will  drape  and  festoon 
the  vrindow,  and  stretch  forth  its  tendrils,  running  up  even  to  the  ceiling.  The 
tendrils  are  so  clinging  in  their  nature  that  they  will  attach  themselves  to  any- 
thing which  comes  within  their  reach — curtain  cords,  branches  of  other  plants, 
brackets,  &c.,  throwing  out  new  branches  everywhere. 

Smilax. 

The  Smilax  (Medeola  asparagoides)  is  now  seen  in  almost  every  window 
basket,  cultivated  extensively  for  its  rich,  wavy,  glossy  foliage.  For  table  deo- 


WINDOW   GARDENING. 

orations,  wreaths,  festoons,  &c.,  it  is  very  popular,  and  in  all  festive  occasions 
where  green  drapery  is  used  the  Smilax  occupies  a  prominent  part— always  con- 
sidered indispensable.  It  is  a  bulb,  a  native  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  and 
requires  a  rich  but  rather  sandy  soil  to  grow  in  perfection,  also  a  liberal  use  of 
liquid  manure,  and  when  in  a  growing  state  must  have  plenty  of  water.  Its 
leaves  are  in  reality  its  branches ;  its  flowers  are  of  a  whitish  green,  and  its  ber- 
ries, or  seed-pods,  black  ;  but  it  is  cultivated  entirely  for  its  graceful  sprays. 
These  are  often  injured  by  their  deadly  enemies,  the  red  spiders.  By  giving  the 
plants  a  good  shower  of  water  once  a  week  they  will  soon  be  free  from  the  insects, 
or  if  this  is  not  convenient,  dust  them  with  red  pepper. 

The  Smilax  does  not  require  a  very  sunny  location,  but  will  thrive  in  a  partly 
shaded  window  or  on  a  bracket.  It  propagates  itself  by  offsets  from  the  parent 
bulb;  yet  it  can  also  be  raised  from  seeds.  It  requires  some  support  to  cling  to, 
and  will  run  more  rapidly  if  a  wire  is  fastened  around  the  outside  edge  of  the 
pot,  and  to  this  let  there  be  attached  small  cords  an  inch  or  two  apart.  Fasten 
the  ends  of  the  cords  together  at  the  top  of  the  ceiling,  and  on  these  slight  sup- 
ports the  vines  will  closely  twine . 

In  the  summer  give  it  but  little  water,  and  keep  it  in  the  shade  where  it  will 
remain  dormant.  In  September  repot  in  fresh  soil,  and  give  occasional  stimu- 
lants. 

It  is  one  of  our  most  delicate  vines  for  the  parlor;  a  great  favorite  with  every 
one,  for  its  graceful  leaves  form  a  very  pleasant  effect  when  trained  either  around 
the  basket,  or  pictures  or  statuary. 

Tropceolums. 

The  varieties  of  this  class  are  very  numerous — all  beautiful  and  handsome 
objects  for  either  indoor  or  garden  use.  They  are  all  rapid  growers  during  the 
winter  months,  and  are  usually  propagated  from  seeds,  which  produce  a  great 
variety  of  colors ;  one  especial  advantage  being  the  fact  of  their  flowering  the 
first  season  so  soon  after  planting.  For  ornamenting  the  window,  or  the  green- 
house, or  for  covering  the  trellis,  arbor,  or  balcony,  they  are  admirably-suited  on 
account  of  their  dense  foliage  and  fine  bloom. 

Tropceolum  Lobbianum,  is  better  suited  for  window  use,  than  the  open  ground. 
Flowers  are  of  very  bright  orange  and  scarlet  colors,  and  vine  a  very  vigorous 
grower ;  propagated  best  from  cuttings. 

The  Troposolum  tricolorum,  is  a  bulbous-rooted  climber,  and  best  suited  for 
the  green-house  or  conservatory.  It  should  be  planted  in  September  to  enable 
it  to  obtain  a  good  start  before  the  winter  starts  in.  Plant  the  tubers,  which  are 
not  unlike  a  potato,  eye  upwards,  and  about  an  inch  and  a  half  beneath  the  sur- 
face of  the  pot,  which  should  be  eight  to  nine  inches  in  diameter,  and  filled  up 
with  a  light  but  rich  soil.  Give  a  little  water  when  you  plant  it,  and  set  the  pot 
in  a  warm  but  rather  shady  spot,  not  letting  the  soil  become  dry ;  until  you  see 
the  shoots  starting  freely  give  but  little  water,  then  give  water  daily.  When  the 
branches  appear,  train  them  to  a  trellis,  or  archway,  according  to  your  taste.  A 


]  2  2  w™  ^ °  W   GA  KDENING. 

plant  of  the  tricolorum  can  be  placed  on  one  side  of  the  archway  or  trellis,  with 
its  crimson,  orange  and  black  blossoms  to  contrast  with  some  of  the  other  varie- 
ties, either  Lobbianum  or  peregrinum. 

Tropaeolum  pentapliylhim,  a  beautiful  kind  of  Tropaeolum  ;  like  the  tri-color, 
but  not  robust  in  habit.  This  kind  will  come  to  a  great  perfection  if  planted  in 
a  large  pot  and  placed  on  a  balcony. 

Tropaeolum  trimaculaium,  an  annual  species  of  more  tender  growth  than 
Trop-major.  It  can  be  raised  from  seeds,  and  will  give  in  their  treatment  dur- 
ing the  summer  season,  a  good  series.  Many  flowers  and  a  graceful  growth  is 
the  character  of  this  plant. 

Sandy  loam,  with  a  third  of  decomposed  manure  well  mixed  with  it,  will 
grow  the  slower  growing  varieties  to  best  advantage  ;  for  those  more  rapid,  we 
would  not  admit  more  than  one  fourth  manure.  When  the  leaves  and  flowers 
begin  to  fade  away,  and  turn  yellow  and  sere,  give  but  very  little  water,  and  when 
dying  down  give  none  at  all,  but  remove  the  bulbs  from  the  pots,  and  keep  them 
in  sand  in  a  cool  place  until  another  September  comes  around.  They  propagate 
themselves  by  tubers,  which  can  be  divided,  and  also  will  root  easily  from  cut- 
tings, which  will  form  roots  in  vases  of  water;  if  the  branches  are  full  of  buds 
when  placed  in  the  vases,  they  will  bloom  finely,  and  form  a  very  pretty  orna- 
ment for  the  parlor  or  sitting-room.  Put  bits  of  charcoal  into  the  glasses,  and 
the  water  will  keep  sweet  and  pure. 

Maurandia. 

The  Maurandia  Barclayana  is  an  exceedingly  pretty  climber  for  indoors.  It 
grows  readily  from  seed  or  cuttings.  If  from  the  latter,  they  should  be  started 
in  June,  so  as  to  make  a  strong  plant  by  autumn. 

If  grown  from  seed,  plant  in  light,  rich  soil,  in  June  ;  water  it  freely,  and  give 
plenty  of  sun.  It  blossoms  profusely,  hanging  out  full  of  elegant  white,  purple, 
or  pink  bell-shaped  flowers,  which  much  resemble  those  of  the  Foxglove.  It 
needs  a  fertilizer  once  a  week,  from  the  time  the  buds  first  appear  till  blooming 
is  past. 

It  is  a  vine  of  the  easiest  growth  and  culture,  winding  about  slender  strings 
or  supports  in  the  window,  and  in  two  or  three* months'  time  it  will  cover  a  small 
trellis  anywhere  with  its  graceful  branches  and  pretty  flowers.  Seeds  can  be 
obtained  of  most  florists,  which  will  furnish  all  colors  of  violet,  white,  scarlet, 
rose,  and  purple. 

Tliunbergia. — This  is  another  ornamental  climber,  easily  raised  from  seed.  It 
grows  in  any  good  garden  soil,  and  will  soon  cover  a  window  frame.  It  is  really 
a  greenhouse  perennial,  and  is  propagated  by  cuttings  for  greenhouse  use.  In 
the  open  ground  its  seed  is  usually  sown  about  the  last  of  May;  grows  freely, 
about  six  feet  high ;  has  many  side  branches,  and"  needs  a  trellis  to  cling  to; 
flowers  are  usually  a  buff  or  white  color,  with  a  rich  maroon  colored  throat 
Other  varieties  have  shades  of  orange  and  yellow. 


WINDO  W    GA  HltKXJXG. 


]23 


The  Passion  Flower. 

The  Passion  Floiver,  is  one  of  our  old  standard  varieties,  much  cultivated  and 
admired,  and  very  desirable  for  parlor  ornament.  It  thrives  best  in  light,  rich 
soil,  and  needs  much  sunlight  to  bloom  in  profusion.  It  cannot  bear  great  Water- 


. 1H.— Pnxfin'tro.    CKmtlra.  Bliu>  PassifM)  Flower. 


]  24  WINDOW   GARDENING. 

ing:  only  be  sure  that  the  leaves  will  not  droop  from  dryness,  and  it  will 
flourish.  Plant  the  seed,  or  start  cuttings  in  moist  sand,  in  the  greenhouse. 
After  a  plant  has  got  a  vigorous  growth,  it  may  be  brought  into  the  parlor,  and 
remain  as  long  as  it  is  warm. 

Passiflora  ccerulea,  has  flowers  of  a  sky  blue  color  and  remarkable  character  ; 
grows  finely,  and  is  quite  ornamental.  It  should  be  pruned  close  back  to  within 
a  bud  or  two  of  the  main  stem  every  summer  or  autumn,  as  it  blooms  on  the 
shoots  from  these  buds  during  the  next  season.  It  can  usually  be  had  of  the 
florist,  and  may  be  kept  as  a  plant  for  the  Conservatory.  If  planted  out  to  orna- 
ment a  veranda  or  trellis,  it  must  be  protected  during  the  winter,  by  covering 
over,  as  it  will  not  stand  the  frost.  It  climbs  twenty  feet  or  more,  and  is  quite 
handsome.  For  house  culture  take  pot  plants  already  started;  keep  in  a  tem- 
perature of  60°  to  75°.  Several  other  varieties  are  suitable  also : — 

Passiflora  racemosa.  Passiflora  quadrangularis. 

"        permessina.  "        princeps. 

A  fine  variegated  variety  has  been  produced — trifasciata ;  its  dark  green,  tri- 
colored  leaves  having  a  broad  band  of  deep  rose  color  through  the  various  centres. 
Its  foliage  is  very  handsome,  and  its  flowers  being  of  the  usual  color,  makes  it 
very  desirable 

For  training  in  conservatories,  they  are  among  the  most  effective  of  all  orna- 
mental climbers,  producing  a  great  profusion  of  blooms. 

Ipomosa.     The  Morning  Glory. 

These  have  proved  with  many  ladies  the  easiest  and  simplest  of  all  vines  to 
raise  indoors.  They  are  raised  chiefly  from  the  seeds,  and  will  usually  grow 
sufficiently  well  to  bloom  in  four  to  six  weeks  after  planting.  They  are  very 
rapid  climbers,  and  much  more  delicate  than  the  Convolvulus  to  which  they  are 
closely  allied.  The  principal  varieties  suitable  for  indoors  are : 

/.  coccinea,  (Star  Ipomooa,)  with  small  scarlet  flowers. 

/    limbala,  white  margin,  bluish  centre,  in  the  form  of  a  star. 

The  Ivy. 

This  has  been  mentioned  in  a  chapter  by  itself.  For  basket  purposes  the  Ger» 
man  Ivy,  or  Coliseum  Ivy,  will  naturally  be  chosen  first ;  but  for  climbing  pur- 
poses, around  the  windows  or  doors  of  the  room,  choose  the  Hedcra  helix, 
English  Ivy,  or  the  Canariensis  Irish  Ivy,  which  will  be  sure  to  grow  in  any 
room.  Both  should  be  frequently  watered. 

Cissus  discolor 

Is  a  greenhouse  climber,  with  finely  variegated  leaves,  which  are  in  great  demand 
in  the  cities  for  the  margins  of  baskets  of  flowers.  It  will  hardly  grow  well  in 
a  window  garden,  as  it  needs  the  highest  temperature  of  a  forcing  house  to 
develope  its  beauties ;  but  in  a  proper  location  it  will  be  for  a  short  time  a  great 
addition  to  a  collection  of  plants.  It  will  grow  during  the  summer  in  the  win- 


WINDOW  GARDENING  125 

if  shaded ;  but  will  not  in  the  winter,  unless  it  has  a  great  deal  of  heat  and 

light. 

Clerodendron  Balfouri 

Needs  a  warm  temperature.  Its  flowers  are  of  a  bright  scarlet,  with  a  calyx 
of  pure  white,  and  the  clusters  are  six  inches  in  diameter.  It  blooms  for 
many  months  during  the  winter,  and  is  invaluable  for  bouquets  and  roses.  It 
requires  a  rich  soil  and  much  sunshine,  but  it  will  grow  well  in  a  southeastern 
location. 

The  list  of  climbing  vines  is  very  extensive.  For  parlor  culture  it  seems 
hardly  necessary  to  make  any  addition  to  a  list  in  which  there  are  so  successful 
and  popular  favorites  as  the  Ivy,  Coboea,  and  Morning  Glory. 

Most  of  the  climbing  vines  suitable  for  indoor  growth  are  generally  grown  in 
the  greenhouse.  Often  they  are  started  in  large  pots  or  boxes,  and  when  trained 
to  a  trellis  are  transferred  to  a  warm  sitting-room  to  stand  there  as  objects  of 
ornament ;  but  few  undertake  to  grow  greenhouse  climbers  there  for  permanent 
use. 

List  of  Climbing  Plants  most  useful  for  the  Parlor,   Window,   or  Balcony 

Decoration. 

a.  Annual,  bi-annual,  or  such  species  and  varieties  with  tender  and  soft  vines  . 
Maurandya  Barclayana,  Lareyana,  and  other  varieties. 
Cardiospermum  Halicacaba,  baloon  vine. 
Tropaeolum  majus,  and  majus  jl.  pleno. 
trimaculatum. 

Lobbianum,  and  its  hybrids. 
CyclantJiera  pedato,  and  p.  explodens. 
Adlumia  cirrhosa,  (Fumaria  fungosa.) 
Tlmnbergia  alata,  and  T.  aurantiacn. 
Lophospermum  scandens,  and  varieties. 
Pilogyne  suavis. 
Ipomo3a  quamoclit,  and  quamoclit  alba. 

coccinea,  and  coccinca  lutca. 
Obobra  viridiflora. 
Scyphantlius  elegans. 
Loasa  later  itia. 

Callistega  pubescens  flore  pleno. 
Manettia  bicolor. 

cordifolia,  (coccinea.*) 
Micania  scandens ,  (Senecio  micanoidesJ) 

b.  Running  plants  with  a  more  ligneous  habit* 
Clematis  azurea  grandiflora,  and  new  hybrids. 

flammula.  and  C.  lanuginosa. 
Passiflora  incarnata,  (hardy  perennial.) 
edulis  fol.  var. 


126  WINDOW 

Passiflora  caerulea,  and  caerulea  varieties, 

trifasciata. 

Jcermesina. 

princeps. 

quadrangular  is. 

Cobosa  scandens,  and  scandens  fol.  var. 
Thunbergia  laurifolia,  and  T.  grandijlora 
Medeola  asparagoides,  (Myrsophylhun.} 
Mikania  spedosa  Verschajf'eltii  and  Warcsewitzii- 
Akebia  qumata. 
Phaseolus  Carncalla. 
Physianthus  albens. 
Ipomcea  digitata,  (palmata) 
fidfolia  and  insignis. 
Hlorsfalliae. 
tyrianthina. 

Stigmaphyllom  ciliatum. 
Solatium  jasminoides. 
Tecoma  jasminoides. 
Mimosa  prostrata. 
Bignonia  venusta,  and  spedosa. 

argyraea — violacea  and  orrtata. 
Tacsonia  mollissima,  and  T.  Van  Volremii. 
Eliyncospermum  jasminoides,  and  var. 
Tropceolum  tri-colorum,  and  T.  pentapliyllum. 
Cissus  discolor. 

antarcticus. 
Rubus  Moluccanus. 
Stephanotus  floribundus. 
Ampelopsis  Veitchii,  and  quinqnefnl,  fol.  var. 
Lonicerabrachypoda  aureo  reticutata. 

Jlakony  Gardening. 

When  the  warm  suns  of  spring  and  summer  make  the  air  more  genial,  out 
taste  for  outdoor  gardening  returns,  and  the  first  step  after  leaving  the  window 
garden  is  to  embellish  our  balcony  or  veranda.  To  this  spot  we  bring  our  hang- 
ing baskets  and  suspend  them  between  the  overhanging  arches,  or  fasten  upon 
one  of  the  piazza  supports  a  hollow  bracketed  vessel.  Throw  therein  some  soil, 
and  try  a  trailing  plant  or  two.  In  the  grassy  border  just  beneath  we  sow  the 
seeds  of  some  of  oar  most  rapid  and  cleanly  growing  hardy  vines,  which  will 
cover  the  balcony  soon  with  their  dense  shade. 

To  those  disposed  to  try  a  little  amateur  gardening,  and  willing  to  undergo 
considerable  pains  and  care,  we  recommend  a  series  of  boxes  wherein  may  be 


WINDOW    GARDENING.  ]  2  7 

grown  plants  of  ornamental  foliage,  such  as  Coleus,  Achyranthes,  Ferns,  or  into 
which  you  ma)''  transfer  your  pot  plants  from  inside  the  window.  These  boxes 
may  be  usually  made  of  pine  wood,  painted  green,  and  vary  from  six  to  eight 
inches  deep,  and  ten  to  fifteen  inches  wide.  Fill  up  all  the  interspace  not  occu- 
pied b}r  the  pots  with  sand  ;  also  fit  castors  to  the  boxes,  so  that  they  may  be 
easily  moved  from  one  part  to  the  other.  Into  these  boxes  may  be  set  trellises, 
and  upon  them  may  be  trained  the  Fuchsia,  Ivy,  Clematis,  or  Morning  Glory. 
Different  boxes  may  be  used  for  different  classes  of  plants:  one  for  Geraniums, 
another  for  Ferns,  a  third  for  Ivy,  a  fourth  for  Roses,  a  fifth  for  Evergreens,  (the 
Arbor  Vitae  being  best,)  another  for  Bulbs,  (Tuberoses,  Lilies,  &c.,  being  best.) 
The  length  of  these  boxes  should  not  exceed  four  feet. 

Mignionette  boxes  are  generally  made  7  inches  deep,  7  inches  wide,  and  froiu 
\\  to  3  feet  long.  Mignionette  looks  best  when  the  plants  are  grown  en  masse, 
and  for  this  there  must  be  depth  of  soil.  It  is  not  a  bad  plan  to  plant  a  few 
climbers  in  the  boxes,  so  that  when  the  Mignionette  fades  away  the  vines  will 
fill  up  the  blank  space. 

Tom  Thumb  Tropaeolums,  Canary  Bird  Flower,  Asters,  Stocks,  Balsams,  are 
all  very  suitable  for  this  style  of  box  and  balcony  gardening. 

Zonale  Geraniums,  Pelargoniums,  of  all  kinds  will  do  well.  Plants  of  varie- 
gated foliage,  like  the  Abutilon,  need  a  slightly  shaded  locality 

Heliotropes,  Salvias,  Verbenas,  &c.,  require  a  strong  exposure  to  sun  and  air, 
and  will  bloom  well  in  a  southeastern  exposure. 

In  a  western  balcony  the  variegated  leaved  Ivy  Geranium,  scarlet,  white,  and 
pink ;  Tom  Thumb  Geraniums,  and  Mignionette,  will  bloom  most  perfectly. 
Ivies  will  twine  about  the  frame-work,  no  matter  what  may  be  the  exposure,  but 
the  Madeira  vine  likes  a  warm  place,  and  the  Smilax  anywhere. 

Fuchsias  desire  the  shade  ;  hence,  a  northerly  exposure,  except  when  too  cool, 
will  suit  them ;  also  the  Pansies,  Myrtles,  and  Funkia  variegata  do  best  there. 

Brackets  may  be  fitted  to  the  sides  of  the  window  frame,  and  in  them  placed 
pots  filled  with  drooping  flowers,  like  the  Colisseum  Ivy  and  Tradescantia 
zebrina. 

At  a  slight  expense  you  might  construct  a  small  hanging  garden,  similar  to 
one  of  the  designs  illustrated  in  the  chapter  for  hanging  baskets,  and  suspend  it 
at  the  end  of  the  piazza.  You  may  also  introduce  vases  upon  your  veranda  with 
good  effect ;  but  for  this  you  do  not  need  tall  plants.  The  most  effective  flowers 
are  those  of  Pansies,  Verbenas,  and  Petunias. 

Balcony  gardening  in  winter  is  of  course  an  impossibility,  unless  we  make 
exceptions  in  favor  of  a  few  Evergreens.  These  are  suitable  at  all  seasons  of  the 
year,  and  nothing  is  more  neat  and  tasteful,  requiring  less  care  than  a  box  of 
Arbor  Vitaes,  for  these  are  much  easier  to  grow  than  Pines  or  Spruces. 

If  the  balcony  is  limited  in  space,  do  not  attempt  bushy  plants,  and  shrubs 
will  be  out  of  place.  Here  climbing  vines  are  the  most  appropriate. 

But  if  you  do  have  plenty  of  room  you  may  introduce  in  the  spring  such 
shrubby  plants  as  the  Azalea,  the  Weigela  rosea,  and  the  Spirea  prunifolia.  A 


WINDOW  GARDENING.  J  29 

gay  display  can  be  made  by  arranging  two  boxes,  one  with  the  Lobelia  in  front, 
and  behind  it  a  row  of  scarlet  Geraniums,  such  as  the  Gen.  Grant,  Warrior,  01 
Marie  Lenwine.  For  a  dwarf  Geranium  the  Tom  Thumb  is  best.  The  Delphinium 
formosum  is  good  also  for  the  balcony.  Cut  away  the  blooms  as  fast  as  they  get 
done.  In  order  to  keep  the  plants  in  good  health  and  growth,  it  would  be  well  to 
see  that  the  soil  of  the  boxes  or  pots  is  covered  with  moss,  and  once  a  day,  in  the 
evening  or  early  morning,  give  the  plants  a  thorough  syringing  of  water,  for  upon 
the  dry  floor  of  the  balcony  evaporation  will  be  quite  rapid  in  warm  days.  Seeds  of 
the  Mignionette,  Sweet  Alysum,  Phlox  Drummondii,  and  Nemophila  will  all  do 
well. 

Nothing  is  so  effective  as  the  Scarlet  Sage,Salvia  Splendens,  gorgeous  with  its 
dazzling  beauty. 

A  good  plant  or  two  of  the  Dielytra  will  make  a  showy  box,  and  then  you 
can  make  room  for  a  few  Verbenas,  Petunias,  Larkspurs,  and  Heliotropes.  We 
would  not  recommend  any  bulbs,  such  as  the  Gladiolus;  except  the  Lilium  Aur- 
tum,  which  will  often  do  well;  also  the  Lilium  Longiflorum. 

If  you  wish  to  grow  bulbs  and  make  a  fine  display,  you  must  remove  your 
boxes  from  the  balcony  just  before  winter ;  fill  them  with  appropriate  soil,  (such 
as  is  named  in  chapter  on  Bulbs,)  sink  them  in  the  garden  border,  plant  in  it  your 
bulbs  of  Hyacinths,  Tulips,  Crocuses,  Snow  Drops,  &c.,  to  remain  during  the 
winter,  well  covered  with  some  mulch.  In  early  spring  take  them  up,  replace 
again  upon  the  balcony,  and  allow  them  to  grow  and  bloom.  This  is  a  very  good 
plan  where  a  box  of  flowering  bulbs  is  desired  for  the  jam  just  outside  of  the 
window-sill.  After  flowering  the  box  may  be  filled  up  again  with  belling 
plants.  Every  evening  give  a  good  sprinkling  of  water,  and  once  a  week  you 
may  add  a  dose  of  liquid  fertilizer  to  all  your  plants  on  the  balcony.  In  very 
hot  weather  watering  may  be  given  twice  a  day,  remembering  the  only  safe  rule, 
never  to  give  it  between  the  hours  of  9  A.  M.  and  4  p.  M.,  while  the  sun's  rays 
are  warmest;  hence,  affording  the  most  danger.  .Where  balconies  are  enclosed 
by  glass  screens  upon  all  sides  they  become  house  conservatories,  and  admit  of 
the  same  management  which  is  given  to  plants  for  window  or  greenhouse  culture. 
Plants  of  greater  variety  may  be  admitted  here  during  all  seasons  of  the  year, 
but  usually  nearly  everything  is  removed  from  them  during  the  summer  months, 
and  placed  outdoors  to  enjoy  the  fresh  air  and  invigorating  rains. 

The  Aucuba  Japonica  is  a  handsome  evergreen  shrub;  flowers  are  of  no  value, 
being  small,  but  the  leaves  are  large,  of  a  glossy  green,  blotched  with  a  pale  yel- 
low color,  tapering  oft'  to  white.  It  must  be  grown  in  a  partially  shaded  loca- 
tion, as  it  cannot  bear  the  hot  rays  of  the  sun.  It  is  hardy,  and  will  withstand 
ordinary  winters. 

Vines  for  the  Balcony. 

In  these  you  will  find  your  most  effective  means  of  decoration.  Most  of  the 
hardy  garden  favorites  will  grow  from  30  to  50  feet  in  a  season,  and  a  great 


130 


WINDOW   GARDENING 


merit  is  their  earliness  and  frequency  of  bloom.     The  list  suitable  for  this  purpose 
is  qu:te  large,  so  we  name  only  the  best  six  or  eight. 


Fig.  20.— A  Cottage  Porch,  with  Cliiubiug  Viuea  at  the  Side. 


WINDOW   GARDENING. 

The  Honeysuckle  might  almost  be  called  a  vine  of  romance.  It  has  been  so 
celebrated  in  words  of  sentiment  or  gems  of  poetry.  The  Japan  variety  (Lo- 
nicera  brachypoda)  is  much  the  best ;  leaves  are  large,  of  a  bright  green  color; 
flowers  of  a  delicate  sweet  fragrance.  As  a  vine  for  covering  arbors,  pillars,  trel- 
lises, balconies,  &c.,  it  is  unsurpassed. 

The  Trumpet  Honeysuckle  (Loniccra  sempervirens,}\s  one  of  the  species  of  the 
Woodbine,  so  well  known  for  its  beauty  of  flower,  and  high  fragrance.  This 
species  is  referred  to  by  The  Agriculturist  as  one  of  the  native  varieties ;  »not  as 
showy  as  some  of  the  later  varieties,  .has  fine  dark  green  leaves,  flowers  tubular, 
about  two  inches  long,  of  a  fine  scarlet  outside,  yellow  within  and  very  brilliant. 
It  multiplies  from  either,  layers  or  cuttings ;  will  not  do  well  north  of  New 
York,  but  is  very  suitable  for  the  Southern  States. 

The  Wistaria  has  the  merit  of  permanency.  Its  stems,  once  grown  and 
trained,  do  not  die  down  yearly,  but  remain,  and  grow  even  more  luxuriant  and 
profuse  in  bloom  year  after  year.  It  is  quite  hardy  ;  will  stand  our  winters  with- 
out much  protection.  The  flowers  are  of  a  light  blue  color,  and  bloom  almost 
constantly  during  the  summer  months,  although  the  principal  period  is  in  May; 
is  grown  from  cuttings  or  layers.  Cultivators  will  do  best  to  buy  a  good  plant 
already  well  started. 

The  Scarlet  Trumpet  Creeper  (Bignonia  grandiflora)  has  much  the  showiest 
flowers  of  all  the  hardy  climbing  vines ;  flowers  are  of  rich  scarlet,  produced  in 
the  greatest  profusion,  blooming  only  in  July  and  August.  It  will  attach  itself 
firmly  to  anything  it  can  reach,  and  throw  out  innumerable  little  rootlets,  which 
do  not  let  go  their  hold.  It  is  a  very  rapid  grower,  and  its  appearance  is  very 
much  heightened  by  the  contrast  of  the  flowers  with  the  bright,  glossy,  deep 
green  of  the  leaves. 

The  Aristolochia  sipho,  or  Dutchman's  Pipe,  is  a  very  curious  vine,  with 
leaves  possessing  an  almost  tropical  appearance,  being  of  an  extraordinary  size, 
3  to  10  inches  broad.  The  flowers  grow  in  the  form  of  a  small  pipe,  and  pos- 
sess little  beauty.  The  plant  is  hardy,  a  rapid  climber,  and  is  particularly  valua- 
ble for  positions  where  a  dense  shade  is  quickly  desired.  Grown  principally 
from  cuttings. 

The  Virginia  Creeper,  or  American  Ivy,  requires  to  be  planted  in  rich,  cool, 
moist  soil.  When  well  started  it  will  grow  with  a  rapidity  unparalleled  in 
native  vines.  Its  foliage  is  its  most  valuable  and  interesting  characteristic  ;  dur- 
ing the  summer  time  it  is  of  a  beautiful  green,  heightened  in  effect  very  materi- 
ally by  the  festoons  which  swing  off  from  the  main  stem,  and  add  grace  of  habit 
to  beauty  of  color.  In  the  autumn  the  foliage,  at  the  first  advent  of  frost,  is 
changed  into  the  most  brilliant  of  crimson  colors,  as  if  the  vine  were  in  a  blaze 
of  glory.  It  is  best  admired  when  seen  in  contrast  with  some  other  green  vine 
close  at  hand,  and  hence,  it  is  often  twined  with  the  Wisteria.  The  Morning 
Glory,  (Convolvulus  major,)  with  its  brilliant,  purple,  crimson,  or  white  flowers, 
is  the  easiest  of  all  to  raise  from  the  seed,  and  always  makes  a  fine  display. 

The  Tropeeolum  percgrinum,    (Canary  Bird  Flower,}  is  used  for  veranda  pur- 


132 


WINDOW   GARDENING 


poses  as  well  as  for  the  garden  or  for  bedding;  flowers  yellow ;  very  ornamental 
growth  about  10  feet. 

It  would  be  best  to  twine  a  different  vine  around  each  pillar  or  colum^  «uart  : 


Pig.  21.— Trmnpet  Honeysuckle— Lonicera  stmpervircnt. 

some  cases,  where  there  will  be  a  contrast  of  foliage  and  flowers,  two  different 
vines  may  be  twined  around  the  same  column  ;  but  it  is  best  to  keep  the  annuals 


WINDOW  GARDENING. 

by  themselves  and  the  permanent  varieties  by  themselves  The  Clematis,  Jas- 
mine, or  Climbing  Roses  may  be  added  by  those  who  have  the  taste.  Indeed, 
we  would  recommend  for  a  surety  at  least  one  Prairie  Rose,  either  the  Gem  of 
the  Prairies  or  the  Queen  of  the  Prairies,  both  of  which  are  crimson  in  color, 
the  former  more  durable  and  fragrant  than  the  latter,  but  not  as  rapid  a  climber 

House-top  Gardening. 

What  a  novelty!  yet  how  reasonable  the  suggestion.  In  the  German  tale  of 
the  "  Old  Mam'selle,"  we  read  of  its  pleasures,  and  it  is  stated  that  in  Sweden 
house-top  gardens  are  not  an  uncommon  sight,  both  in  the  country  and  in  the 
villages.  The  roofs  of  some  of  the  poorest  cottages  are  covered  with  herbs, 
which,  afford  a  pasture  for  goats.  In  Norway  they  even  plant  trees  in  the  turf 
which  covers  the  roofs,  and  to  such  an  extent  is  this  carried  that  some  of  their 
hamlets  or  villages,  seen  at  a  distance,  have  quite  the  air  of  a  little  wood.  Noth- 
ing is  more  common  than  to  see  rude  kitchen  gardens  on  these  roofs  of  houses. 

An  English  gentleman,  writing  to  a  London  horticultural  journal,  mentions 
the  pleasant  recollections  when  he  visited  while  a  boy,  over  50  years  ago,  the 
home  of  a  French  citizen,  a  Mr.  Marquis,  in  Coleman  street,  London  : 

"  This  gentleman's  hobby  was  a  '  house-top  garden '  of  the  most  complete  and 
perfect  character.  At  the  lower  part  of  the  upper  staircase  was  the  root  of  a 
fine  Sycamore,  the  foliage  df  which  luxuriated  in  a  '  glass  house  *  above  on  the 
roof,  amidst  orange  and  lemon  trees,  with  fairest  flowers,  tea,  tobacco,  and  many 
other  highly  interesting  specimens  of  vegetable  life.  I  forget,  at  this  distance  of 
time,  how  many  sorts  of  fruit  were  to  be  seen  growing  and  flourishing  in  this 
'house-top  garden/  but  the  vine  and  its  magnificent  clusters  of  delicious  grapes 
are  ineffaceably  engraved  on  memory's  young  tablets.  Think  of  that,  ye  apa- 
thetic cockneys !  hothouse  grapes  from  Coleman  street,  and  that  not  once  in  a 
day,  but  year  after  year,  until  the  talented  and  spirited  proprietor  went  to  that 
bourne  from  whence  no  traveler  returns,  and  then  the  master  mind  being  gone 
the  garden  pined  away. 

"  In  a  convenient  corner  of  his  elevated  greenhouse  Mr.  Marquis  had  a  lifting 
force-pump,  with  air  vessel,  to  which  a  length  of  leather  hose  being  attached, 
afforded  a  convenient  means  of  watering  and  syringing  the  numerous  plants  col- 
lected in  this  unique  garden." 

This  style  of  ornamental  gardening  is  unusual  here,  and  we  remember  but  one 
instance  of  ever  noticing  an  attempt  to  imitate  it  in  this  Country.  This  was  so 
successfully  planned  and  executed  that  it  will  bear  honorary  mention. 

In  one  of  the  principal  streets  of  Louisville,  Kentucky,  may  be  seen  a  doctor's 
office,  the  roof  of  which  is  covered  with  a  perfect  mass  of  green  plants  in  floral 
boxes.  Directly  in  front,  on  the  eaves  just  overhanging  the  front  of  the  build- 
ing, is  a  long  box,  about  two  feet  wide,  the  same  in  height,  and  extending  across 
the  entire  width  of  the  top  of  the  house.  Here  were  planted  a  perfect  mass  of 
Verbenas  and  Portulaccas ;  at  the  corners  were  set  drooping  vines,  which,  as 
they  grew,  hung  their  long  garlands  of  flowers  away  down  before  the  lower  win- 


134 


WINDOW  GARDENING. 


Fig  W.-AriBtolochia  aipho.  or  Dutchman's  Pipe. 


WINDOW  GARDENING. 

dows.  Just  back  of  this  was  placed  a  "wooden  staging,  with  successive  steps 
rising  upward,  covered  witli  pots  or  boxes  filled  with  plants  of  other  character. 
Here  were  Fuchsias  trained  to  a  neat  little  trellis ;  Coleus  in  one  pot ;  Achyran- 
thes  in  another,  and  in  one  big  tub  had  been  planted  a  pumpkin  seed,  the  vines 
from  which  sprawled  all  over  the  top  of  the  staging  and  rustic  arbor  improvised 
overhead.  Here  and  there,  over  the  roof  beyond,  were  put  pots,  each  with  a 
huge  plant  of  the  Ricinus  fully  eight  feet  high,  and  correspondingly  broad.  At 
each  corner  of  the  roof,  also  in  the  centre,  and  on  an  elevated  stand  near  the 
front,  were  set  big  barrels  or  hogsheads  full  of  water  pumped  up  from  below, 
and  from  holes  at  the  bottom  the  water  flowed  through  hose  with  sprinklers 
attached,  and  which  sprinkled  the  plants  at  any  time  with  a  ready  rain. 

The  Ricinus  added  vastly  more  than  anything  else  to  the  decoration  of  the 
roof,  by  their  stateliness  and  almost  tropical  beauty;  but  the  trailing  vines,  with 
their  garlands  of  bloom,  helped  out  the  symmetry  and  completed  the  grace  of 
the  whole.  Scarcely  a  passer-by  in  the  street  but  stopped  long  to  look  upon  this 
novel  scene ;  and  the  fame  of  the  doctor's  garden  doubtless  has  been  carried 
by  strangers  far  beyond  the  borders  of  this  lovely  "  City  of  Floivers" 

Not  long  since  a  lady  detailed  to  a  delighted  audience,  of  how  she,  with  her 
sister,  put  to  good  practical  use  the  roof  of  a  one  story  L  building,  which  was 
used  for  a  kitchen.  The  roof  was  nearly  flat,  and  afforded  ready  means  for 
converting  into  a  garden.  Surrounding  it  with  a  wire  trellis,  they  placed  inside 
as  many  boxes,  barrels,  &c.,  as  they  could  find.  These  they  filled  with  rich 
dirt,  manure,  and  street  sweepings.  Here  they  sowed  seeds  of  Tomatoes, 
Cucumbers,  Squash,  Melons,  String  Beans,  and  anything  of  quick,  easy  growth. 
They  actually  did  cultivate  this  curious  garden  for  two  years,  and  gathered, 
while  each  growing  season  lasted,  excellent  crops  of  vegetables,  rich  flavored, 
large  and  delicious  ;  perhaps  doubly  appreciated  in  consequence  of  their  being 
the  fruit  of  their  own  labor.  As  long  as  it  lasted  the  little  series  of  box  garden 
was  well  tilled,  kept  well  watered  with  liquid  manure,  and  was  eminently  suc- 
cessful. It  ran  down  at  last,  owing  to  a  change  of  occupants  of  the  building. 

A  very  pretty  plan  for  a  Rose  Garden  upon  the  top  of  a  house  has  been  sug- 
gested by  a  landscape  gardener.  .Let  the  pillars  and  frame-work  of  the  house  be 
made  very  strong,  capable  of  supporting  a  good  weight  of  earth,  &c.  Then  fill 
into  earthern  cribs  all  the  rich  earth  that  can  be  obtained  to  the  depth  of  lj  feet, 
and  cover  the  entire  roof,  except  a  path  surrounding  an  oval  bed  in  the  centre. 
This  path  should  be  three  feet  wide.  Here  you  may  plant  your  Roses,  Fuchsias, 
&c.,  in  the  open  air,  and  they  will,  if  kept  well  watered,  bloom  all  the  summer. 
The  accompanying  design  and  description,  by  Robert  Morris  Copeland,  in  an 
early  number  of  "  Hearth  and  Home,'*  will  explain  itself: 

"This  little  plan  shows  a  roof  20  by  30  feet;  provision  must  be  made  for  a 
weight  of  20  tons,  for  a  cubic  foot  of  soil  weighs  100  pounds,  and  there  are  900 
cubic  feet  in  the  garden,  or  600  square  feet  superficial  area.  This  would  crush 
an  ordinary  roof,  so  the  weight  must  be  lightened  by  taking  out  room  for  the 
path,  and  having  only  light  weight  in  the  centre  figure 


136 


WINDOW   GARDENING. 


"  Surround  the  roof  with  an  iron  frame  6  feet  high,  made  of  iron  rods,  set  up 
at  intervals  of  G  feet,  and  connected  with  smaller  rods  running  entirely  around 
the  roof.  Train  on  this  fence  Wistaria,  Woodbine,  Honeysuckle,  or  Kunning 
Hoses. 

On  the  fence  on  the  north  side,  where  the  Roses  would  get  full  sun,  plant 
Baltimore  Belle,  Mrs.  Hovey,  or  Rosa  Ruga,  if  content  with  single  blooming 
Roses;  or  select  from  the  Noisettes  La  Marque  or  Aimee  Vibert  or  Madame 
Henrietta,  and  from  the  Teas,  Safrano. 

On  the  east  fence  plant  the  Lonicera  Halliana,  Hall's  Honeysuckle,  and  the 
Golden  Berried  Honeysuckle — all  hardy;  on  the  south,  Golden  and  common 
Ivy;  on  the  west,  Dutch  Monthly  Honeysuckle  and  one  running  Rose. 

During  the  summer  grow  Tropaeolum,  Maurandia,  Nierembergia,  and  Tpomoea 
among  the  hardy  vines.  In  the  northwest  corner  (.4)  set  six  Hybrid  Perpetual 

Roses,  then  a  bed  of  Heliotropes  ;  in  the 
northeast  corner  six  more  Hybrid  or 
other  Perpetuals ;  D  and  H,  occupied 
by  roots  of  vines ;  cover  the  surface  with 
Periwinkle,  Nummularia,  or  Lycopo- 
dium ;  E,  June  Roses :  F,  Tricolor 
Pelargoniums,  which  do  best  out  of  the 
direct  rays  of  the  sun ;  Or,  Moss  Roses, 
single,  blooming,  and  perpetual.  In  the 
centre  bed  I  is  a  group  of  Coleus  sur- 
unded  by  Centauria  candidissima ;  J", 
K,  L,  M,  are  filled  with  China,  Bengal, 
and  Tea  Roses,  the  surface  unoccupied 
to  be  covered  with  Blue  Lobelia ;  X  is 
the  trap  door  which  leads  out  of  the 
roof. 

A  roof  garden  for  Roses  could  be 
planted  every  autumn  with  Bulb?,  Snow 
drops,  Crocuses,  Hyacinths,  and  Tulips, 
all  of  which  would  blossom  and  die  be- 
fore the  foliage  of  the  Roses  would  be 
large  enough  to  do  any  harm. 

Let,  there  be  planted  forinstance,  four 
colors  of  Hyacinths  in  the  beds  J, 
K,  Ly  M ;  Crown  Imperials  and  Tulips  in  I;  border  all  the  beds  with  Snow- 
drops; set  Crocus  in  four  colors  inside  of  the  Snowdrops;  fill  J5,  FtD,  H  with 
mixed  Tulips,  and  put  Daffodils,  Jonquils,  and  Polyanthus  in  A,  (7,  (7,  G. 

"  The  bed  for  roof  gardens  should  be  raised  a  few  inches  above  the  surface  of 
the  roof,  the  wood  forming  the  bottom  of  the  garden-box  or  crib,  being  perfo- 
rated ;  the  sides  of  the  box  should  be  two  feet  high.  First  lay  over  the  floor  a 
few  inches  of  leaves,  broken  bones,  or  coarse  manure." 


Kiy.  23.— Plan  of  a  Rose  Garden  on  the  Roof  of  a 
House. 


WINDOW   GARDENING.  137 

This  idea  of  roof  gardens  may  be  still  farther  carried  out,  and  made  more 
permanently  useful  for  winter  as  well  as  summer,  by  covering  it  all  over  with 
glass ;  then  at  a  ny  season  of  the  year  the  flower-lover  may  repair  here,  and 
always  be  sure  of  finding  some  green  things  to  enliven  the  looks,  while  in  sum 
mer  the  glass  may  be  opened  to  the  admission  of  fresh  air  and  rain. 

If  the  amateur  does  not  wish  to  go  to  so  elaborate  and  expensive  a  construc- 
tion, he  may  gratify  his  taste  by  the  selection  of  large  pots  or  boxes,  fill  them 
with  soil,  and  then  place  them  upon  the  roof,  filled  with  appropriate  plants. 

Shrubs  may  be  introduced  here,  such  as  the  Deutzias,  Spiraeas,  or  Weigelas 
but  usually  annual  plants — t.  c.,  those  grown  from  seed — will  do  the  best,  like 
Verbenas,  Salvias,  and  climbing  plants.  Fuchsias,  Heliotropes,  and  Geraniums 
will  always  be  appropriate. 

No  prettier  ornament  to  a  house-top  can  be  devised  than  to  erect  at  each  cor- 
ner of  the  roof  a  pretty  trellis.     Let  there  be  a  rod  or  pole  running  across  the 
vacant  space  from  one  trellis  to  the  other  ;  then  at  the  bottom  place  a  large  tub 
of  earth,  and  in  it  start  a  few  plants  of  Ivy,  or  the  Scarlet  Trumpet  Creeper,  or 
the  Wistaria.     Keep  them  well  watered,  and  their  clambering  tendrils,  with 
their  rich  leaves,  will  soon  festoon  the  arbor,  and  render  the  roof  an  inviting 
resort  for  all  members  of  the  family.     The  Ivy  is  much  the  simplest  and  safes 
ornament  of  this  description  to  use,  and  the  amateur  had  better  not  try  any 
thing  else  until  he  becomes  more  familiar  with  plant-culture  and  can  make 
good  selection  for  himself. 


CHAPTER    XIII. 


BULBS. 

Bulbous-rooted  flowering  plants  are  so  numerous,  conspicuous,  and  exquisitely 
beautiful,  and  withal  so  well  adapted  for  the  conservatory,  that  were  all  other 
plants  annihilated  or  forgotten,  this  class  alone  would  at  all  times  fill  the  draw 

ing-room  with  the  most  gorgeous  as  well 
as  the  most  chaste  and  beautiful  flowers, 
attractive  not  only  for  their  delicacy,  bril- 
liancy, and  variety  of  color,  but  as  well 
for  their  most  delightful  fragiance.  It  is 
not  our  intention  in  this  place  to  write  a 
history  of  Bulbs,  but  merely  to  offer  a 
few  remarks  on  the  adaptation  and  culture 
of  the  most  desirable  sorts,  in  connection 
with  other  classes  of  plants  noticed  in 
this  work. 

The  Hyacinth. 

Pre-eminent  in  this  class  stands  tho 
Hyacinth,  which  has  been  deservedly 
popular  for  more  than  three  hundred 
years,  and  is  to-day  more  sought  after 
than  any  other  species,  simply  because 
greater  variety  of  color  and  quantity  of 
bloom  can  be  had  with  less  trouble  and  ex- 
pense than  from  any  other.  Hyacinths 
have  a  most  generous  nature ;  they  will 
adapt  themselves  to  almost  any  situation, 
and  flower  as  freely  and  smile  as  sweetly 
in  the  poor  man's  window  as  in  the  more 
"While  their  generosity  is  so  marked;  their 
gratitude  for,  and  appreciation  of,  attention  shown  them  is  equally  marked.  No 
plant  pays  so  well  for  good  culture  as  this ;  the  difference  between  common 
planting  and  proper  growing  is  so  great  that  one  would  scarcely  think  or  believe  . 
the  flower  could  come  from  the  same  bulb.  Hyacinths  can  be  grown  in  a  variety 
of  ways.  The  best,  simplest,  and  most  common,  is  in  pots.  We  shall,  however 


Fig.  24.— "Rustic  Robin"  Jardinet. 
costly  conservatory  of  the  wealthy. 


WINDOW   GARDENING 


139 


describe  the  various  ways  we  have  grown  them,  and  leave  the  reader  to  make  his 
or  her  choice,  as  fancy  may  dictate. 

First,  a  few  words  upon  the  selection  of  Bulbs  are  highly  necessary.  It  may 
not  be  generally  known  that  Hyacinths  will  not  bloom  icell  but'once.  In  Hoi 
land,  where  they  are  only  grown  for  market,  they  are  not  allowed  to  flower 
except  in  specimen  beds,  from  the  time  the  setts  are  planted  until  they  are  largi 
enough  to  sell,  which  is  usually  when  they  are  four  years  old.  The  flower-stall 
is  cut  away  as  soon  as  it  can  be  without  damage  to  the  foliage.  This  throws  thi 
whole  strength  of  the  plant  into  the  bulb,  which  is  kept  growing  until  there  ii 
danger  of  its  breaking,  which  the 
practiced  eye  of  the  grower  readi- 
ly sees.  Then  it  is  sent  to  mar- 
ket, and  the  next  season  will  give 
the  finest  possible  bloom,  after 
which  the  old  bulb  will  "break" 
and  several  small  ones  form,  noen 
of  which  will  ever  do  well  enough 
to  pay  for  growing  the  second  sea- 
son. We  do  not  wish  to  mislead  ; 
this  instruction  is  only  for  those 
who  wish  none  but  first  rate  flow- 
ers. Bulbs  planted  in  the  open 
border,  after  having  bloomed  in 
pots,  will  continue  to  bloom  a 
number  of  years,  but  will  give 
small,  puny  spikes,  with  but  a  few 
bells  on  each. 

To  flower  bulbs  successfully 
they  should  be  procured  as  soon 
as  possible  after  their  arrival  from 
Holland,  which  is  generally  about 
the  first  of  September,  and  imme- 
diately potted  in  a  soil  composed 
of  equal  parts  of  good  loam,  leaf 
mould  and  well  rotted  cow  man- 
ure, which  should  be  well  mixed, 
after  which  add  about  one-fifth  of  good  clean  sand.  No  soil  can  be  better  than  this  for 
noble  growth  and  bloom.  The  pots  should  be  made  on  purpose  ;  not  larger  than  five 
inches  across,  nor  less  than  eight  inches  deep  ;  fill  the  pot  nearly  full  of  the  com- 
post, and  press  the  bulb  firmly  in,  so  that  the  top  of  the  bulb  is  about  level  with 
the  top  of  the  pot.  After  filling,  they  should'  be  plunged  in  a  frame  or  open 
border,  and  covered  four  inches  with  soil  or  some  compost,  where  they  should 
remain  until  the  first  of  December.  This  operation  is  highly  necessary  to 
encourage  the  root  growth,  which  must  be  made  before  the  leaves  shoot  forth,  for 


fj.  25.— Princess  Alexandra  Jardinet. 


140 


WINDOW   GARDENING. 


perfection  of  bloom.  After  the  roots  have  reached  the  bottom  of  the  pot,  they 
may  be  brought  into  the  conservatory  to  Mower  as  wanted.  Those  brought  in 
December  1st,  will  bloom  by  New  Years.  Water  should'be  freely  given  them  as 
soon  as  they  begin  to  grow,  but  do  not  soak  them,  neither  allow  them  to  dry  up. 
Even  temperature,  even  watering,  with  plenty  of  fresh  air,  are  the  essentials  for 
their  well  growing.  As  soon  as  the  flower-stem  is  fully  developed,  one  or  two 
waterings  with  liquid  manure  is  highly  beneficial.  The  style  of  growth,  and  the 

size  of  the  flowers  and  trusses  of 
plants  cultivated  in  this  manner, 
will  very  much  excel  those  grown 
in  the  ordinary  way,  and  will 
amply  repay  the  care  bestowed. 
The  same  soil  and  treatment 
should  be  given  them  if  planted 
in  boxes,  Jardinieres,tubs,  or  any 
device  the  grower  may  select. 

Hyacinths  can  be  and  are  com- 
monly grown  in  glasses.  One  or 
two  seasons  generally  satisfy  the 
enthusiast,  however,  that  it  is  not 
the  better  way.  Many  will 
every  year  try  this  method,  and 
for  such  the  following  instructions 
will  be  most  likely  the  ones  to 
insure  success.  The  ordinary 
Hyacinth  glass  will  answer,  but 
Tye's  pattern  is  decidedly  prefer- 
able. Always  use  rainwater ;  put 
them  in  the  glasses  about  the  first 
of  October  ;  do  not  fill  above  the 
bottom  of  the  bulb.  It  is  better 
not  to  let  the  water  quite  reach 
the  bulb.  After  filling,  place  in 
a  dark  closet  until  the  roots 
reach  the  bottom  of  the  glass, 
which  will  generally  be  in  about 
three  weeks ;  be  careful  to  keep 

Fig.26.--Princ^f  WaieT- Jardinet.  away    from    frost;    change  the 

water  as  often  as  it  becomes  discolored,  and  fill  up  to  the  bottom  of  the  bulb 
any  time  there  is  a  vacancy  between  the  periods  of  change.  When  they  begin 
to  grow,  give  them  all  the  light,  possible  without  setting  them  where  they  will 
get  the  noonday  sun.  A  friend  once  called  us  to  see  and  tell  him  why  his  Hya- 
cinths did  not  "  do  well."  Upon  examination  we  found  the  water  hot  from  the  sun ; 
not  merely  warm,  but  hot  enough  to  cook  the  bulb,  which  is  not  the  way  they 


WINDOW   GARDENIXO. 


141 


should  be  served  up.     To  set  the  glasses  on  the  window  ledge  is  nearly  as  fatal 

to  them;  the  cold  air  coming  up  between  the  sash  chills  them.     Plants  of  all 

kinds  are  as  sensitive  to  a  draft  as  human  beings  are.     In  order  to  have  them 

near  the  light,  put  up  light  brackets  or  a  narrow  shelf  across  the  window,  say 

six  inches   from  the  glass,  which 

will  protect  them   both  from  the 

sun  and  the  draft. 

A  very  good   plan  for  growing 

them  in  glasses  is  first  to  put  the 

bulb  in  clean  sand  until  the  roots 

have  become  well  grown,  say  six 

inches  long;  then  take  them  out 

of  the  sand,  put  them  in  glasses, 

and  treat  as  above.     It  is  really 

curious  to  see  them    growing  in 

water,  and   when,  as  you    some- 
times   will   do,  you    get    a    good 

spike,   the    satisfaction     is    very 
great. 

Hyacinths  will  grow  and  bloom 
in.  moss  alone,  if  it  be  kept  con- 
tinually wetted ;  but  a  far  better 
way  is  to  fill  half  way  whatever 
vessel  you  may  choose — a  bowl, 
dish,  or  vase — with  clean  sand, 
place  the  bulb  upon  it,  and  fill  the 
rest  with  good  green  moss.  Use 
sufficient  water  to  keep  the  sand 
full,  but  with  none  lying  on  the 
top.  Once  in  three  or  four  water- 
ings you  may  use  liquid  manure, 
which  may  be  made  of  half  a  peck 
of  well  rotted  cow  manure  put  in 
ten  gallons  of  water,  well  stirred 
up,  and  allowed  to  settle,  the  clear 
liquid  alone  being  used.  This  will 
strengthen  the  growth;  still  with- 
out SUCh  Stimulant  the  plants  Will  Fi~  27.-Jardiiiet,  with  Hyacinth. 

come  short,  strong,  and  well  colored,  if  kept  fully  exposed  to  the  light,  and  well 
supplied  with  air. 

Those  who  grow  Hyacinths  in  part  to  gratify  curiosity,  will  be  amused  by 
taking  a  deep  saucer  or  glass  dish,  fill  it  to  the  rim  with  clean,  white  gravel, 
upon  which  place  a  good,  firm  bulb;  then  treat  the  same  as  with  glasses.  The 


142 


WIND OW   GA RDEN1NO. 


roots  will  soon  fill  the  dish,  running  over  and  through  the  gravel,  forming  a 
solid  mass. 

SELECTION  OP  VARIETIES. 

Asa  rule,  we  prefer  the  single  varieties  for  forcing.  But  few  of  the  double 
ones  produce  a  tine  truss,  the  bells  being  uneavenly  and  thinly  scattered  along 
the  stem.  For  glasses,  moss,  or  saucers,  the  single  ones  must  be  selected.  With 
the  following  sorts  we  have  generally  been  successful : 

DOUBLE  RED. — Bouquet  Royal,  large,  rosy  bells;  a  good  bloomer. 

Bouquet  Tender,  fine,  deep  red ;  one  of  the  best  reds 
Comptesse  de  La  Costa,  very  fine  dark  rose,  with  good  spike 


Fig.  28.— Ornauieutal  Hyacinth  Glasses.  Fi£.  29.— Tye's  Triple  Hyacinth  Glass. 

Duke  of  Wellington,  very  fine  pale  rose  ;  the  bells  large  and 

•  beautifully  arranged,  often  giving  two  spikes. 
Grootforst,  pafe  rose;  good  spike,  with  nicely  shaped  bells. 
Regina  Victoria,  bright  pink;  large  bells,  and  fine  spike. 
DOUBLE  WHITE— Anna  Maria,  fine,  waxy  white,  with  pink  eye ;  good  formed 

bells  and  spike. 

Jenny  Lind,  blush  white,  with  purple  eye ;  good  bells ;  com- 
pact truss. 


WINDOW   GARDENING. 


143 


La  Deese,  pure  white,  finely-shaped  bells,  but  chm  spike. 

La  Vestale,  lily  white ;  small  bells  and  spike. 

Prince  of  Waterloo,  fine,  pure  white ;  large  bells ;  moderate 

spikes. 
DOUBLE  BLUE— BlocJcsberg,  fine  bright  and   marbled  blue;  very  large  bells 

and  spike. 

Grande  Vidette,  fine  porcelain  blue ;  large  bells  and  spike. 
Laurens  Koster,    beautiful   bright  indigo,  large  bells,  and 

first  rate  form,  with  an  immense  spike. 
Lord  Wellington,  clear  blue;  dark  centre;  good  form. 
Prince  Frederick,  fine  porcelain  blue  ;  large  bells  and  spike 
DOUBLE  YELLOW — Bouquet  dy  Orange, 
fine  citron  yellow ; 
small  bells;  mod- 
erate spike. 
Jaunne  Supreme,  fine, 
clear  yellow;  good 
spike. 

SINGLE  RED — Diebitz  SabalsJcansy, 
bright  red,  moderate 
bells,  and  good  spike. 
DuJce  of  Wellington,  fine 
rose;  large  bells  and 
spike. 

L'Ami  du  Cceur,  deep 
pink;  small  bells ;  mod- 
erate spike. 

Madame  Hodgson,   pale 
pink,  good   bells,  and 
finely-formed  spike. 
Norma,     a     magnificent 
waxy  pink;    immense 
bells  and  spike. 
Robert  Steiger,  fine,  deep 
crimson,    large    bells, 
and  immense  spike. 
SINGLE  WHITE — Elfrida,  creamy 


ise  lor  Bullis. 


fig.  31.— Ornamental  Vase 
for  Bulbs. 


•j.  32.— Ty«'g  Single  Hya- 
cinth Glass. 

blush;    very  large 
bells;  immense  spike. 
Grand    Vainquer,   pure   white;  fine 

bells  and  spike ;  extra. 
Grand  Vidette,  pure  white,  large  bells,  and  long  spike;  very 

early. 

Grand  Blanche  Imperiale,  fine  blush ;  moderate  bells ;  large 
spike. 


Ill  WINDOW  GARDENING. 

Grandeur  a  Merville,  very  fine,  pale  blush,  good  bells,  and 

immense  spike. 
Mont  Blanc,  beautiful,  clear  white;  large  bells;  immense 

spike. 
Victoria  Regina,  very  fine,  pure  white,  large,  waxy  bells,  and 

fine  spike. 
Voltaire,  very  beautiful  blush  •  large  bells ;  compact  spike ; 

of  immense  size. 
SINGLE  BLUE— Baron  Van  Tuyll,  fine,  dark  porcelain  ;  large  bells ;  extra  fine 

spike. 

Charles  Dickens,  fine,  pale  blue;  large  bells;  very  fine  spike. 
Grand  Lilas,  beautiful,  delicate  azure   blue;  large,   perfect 

bells ;  immense  spike  ;  one  of  the  best. 
Grand  Vidette,  fine,  pale  blue,  immense  bells,  and  moderate 

spike. 

Nimrod,  beautiful,  pale  blue ;  large  bells  and  spike. 
Orandates,  very  fine  porcelain  blue,  large  bells,  and  very  fine 

spike. 
Porcelain  Sceptre,  very  fine,  pale  blue ;  moderate  bells ;  very 

fine  spike. 
SINGLE  YELLOW — Anna  Carolina,  beautiful,  clear  yellow;  handsome  bells 

and  spike. 
Heroine,  pale  yellow,  with  green  tips;  large  truss. 

Roman  Wliite  Hyacinth, 

A  new  variety  lately  introduced  ;  a  most  valuable  acquisition  for  early  blooming, 
suitable  only  for  pots.  The  bells  of  this  variety  are  very  small,  not  more  than 
half  the  size  of  the  Dutch  bulbs.  They  can  be  grown  in  three-inch  pots ;  same 
soil  as  recommended  for  the  other  sorts.  If  planted  in  September,  they  can  be 
made  to  bloom  by  the  1st  of  December.  Flowers  pure  white,  very  fragrant, 
small  bells,  and  spike ;  each  bulb  will  give  from  three  to  five  spikes.  For  early 
flowering  it  is  indispensable. 

We  cannot  leave  this  interesting  class  of  plants  without  a  word  of  caution  to 
those  about  selecting  bulbs.  Do  not  buy  cheap  bulbs,  neither  those  that  are 
very  high  priced,  because  of  their  scarcity.  Good  bulbs  cannot  be  had  at  less 
than  three  dollars  per  dozen ;  that  is,  such  bulbs  as  ought  to  be  grown  in  the 
"window."  Avoid  "mixed"  bulbs,  which  are  simply  culls.  In  Holland,  when 
the  crop  is  harvested,  the  very  best  are  selected  and  sent  to  England  and  France, 
where  the  prices  are  twice  as  much  as  here ;  the  next  choice  is  for  this  and  other 
markets,  sold  under  Named  sorts ;  the  next  grade  are  put  up  and  sold  in 
separate  colors;  the  balance  of  stock  is  sold  at  auction,  to  be  put  up  in  "cases" 
for  auction  in  this  country,  or  hawked  about  our  rtreets  by  German  pedlars. 
Go  to  a  reliable  seedsman,  and  if  you  do  not  know  what  you  want,  take  his 
advice. 


WINDOW   GARDENING  145 

Tulips. 

Few  flowers  have  received  the  marked  attention,  and  been  so  universally  grown 
Mid  admired,  as  the  Tulips.  But  few  plants  are  so  varied  in  their  characters, 
and  scarcely  a  family  so  large  but  what  has  more  poor  relations.  No  class  of 
plants  has  so  many  superb  varieties.  The  late  flowering  or  show  varieties  are 
among  ths  brightest  ornaments  of  the  garden.  We  regret  so  few  of  the  many 
sorts  are  suitable  for  forcing,  or  for  early  flowering  in  the  "  window."  The  fol- 
lowing varieties  can  be  successfully  grown  in  pots,  giving  them  the  same  soil  and 
treatment  as  recommended  for  the  Hyacinth.  They  should  be  planted  in  five- 
inch  pots,  putting  five  bulbs  in  each,  one  in  the  centre,  the  four  equally  distant 
about  one  inch  from  the  rim.  Plant  as  early  as  they  can  be  procured  in  the  fall. 
Plunge  out  of  doors,  and  let  them  remain  until  the  first  of  December,  when  they 
may  be  brought  in.  As  soon  as  they  show  signs  of  growth,  water  moderately  ; 
give  them  plenty  of  light,  sun,  and  air;  a  cool  situation  suits  them  best. 
Due  Van  Thol,  Red  and  Yellow— single;  the 

earliest  va- 
riety. 

do  do     double;  showy 

and   early. 

S  c  a  r  1  e  t — very    bright    and 

showy. 
White — very   fine,   large,  and 

perfect  flower. 
Yellow — one  of  the  best  yellow 

sorts  grown. 
Crimson — large  flower,  but  not 

so  early. 
Gold  striped — early,  and  very 

showy. 

PotterbaJcker,  White  and  Yellow— Both  are 
good  for  forcing;  flowers 
larger  than  the  Due  Van 
Tholl's,  but  not  as  early ; 
very  fine  for  a  succession.  F«S.  33.-Pot  of  Tulips. 

Tournesoly  (double),  Red  and  Yellow — a  very  large  flower,  opens  wide,  is  a 

free  bloomer,  and  very  showy. 

Florentine  (sweet  scented) — exquisite  on  account  of  its  delicious  fragrance. 
With  these  varieties  we  advise  the  amateur  to  stop,  as  we  think  the  room  can 
be  filled  with  plants  that  are  better  adapted  to  indoor  culture. 

The  Narcissus 

IB  admirably  adapted  for  window  gardening;  soil  and  general  treatment  same  as 
for  the  Hyacinth.    They  should  be  planted  in  September,  one  ,11  a  pot,  which 


146 


WJXDOW  GARDENING. 


should  be  not  less  than  five  inches  across.  Place  out  of  doors,  where  they  should 
remain  until  near  Christmas,  by  which  time  they  will  be  well  rooted,  and  ready 
for  rapid  growth.  After  flowering,  they  should  be  left  in  the  pots,  and  kept 
growing  until  they  can  be  plunged  in  the  garden,  where  they  should  be  left  (in 
pots)  for  the  next  season.  After  they  have  become  well  established  they  flower 
profusely.  But  few  kinds  of  bulbs  are  so  impatient  of  changes  as  these  ;  they 
should  not  be  taken  out  of  the  pots  until  the  bulbs  and  roots  have  completely 
filled  them  ;  then  take  out,  remove  the  outside  bulbs,  leaving  the  centre  in  a  solid 
mass,  and  repot  for  the  next  season.  The  shifting  should  be  done  when  the 
bulbs  are  at  rest.  The  following  are  the  most  desirable  for  indoor  culture  : 
Polyanthus  Narcissus,  (Roman,)  double ;  white  and  yellow;  when  planted 

early  will  bloom  at  Christmas. 
Paper  white;  pure  white,  and  early;    very 

line. 

Grand  Solid  d* Or,  fine  yellow  orange;  cup 
very   handsome ;   comes  in  after  the   pre- 
ceding. 
States  General,  lemon  yellow;  orange  cup; 

an  excellent  variety. 
"Bezelman  major,  white ;  yellow  cup  ;  a  later 

variety,  but  one  of  the  very  best. 
Double  Narcissus,  Albo  plena  oderato,  very 
double ;    pure     white ; 
later  than  the  Polyan- 
thus    Narcissus,    and 
should  be  left   out  of 
doors  until  it  has  been 
frozen  hard  before 
bringing  in ;   it  will  bloom  about  the  first  of  March. 

Single  Narcissus,  Porteus,  a  popular  and  well-known  variety,  pure  white, 
lemon-colored  cup  in  the  centre,  which  is  bordered  with 
bright  crimson. 

Single  Narcissus,  Albo  simplex  oderato,  pure  white;  very  fragrant. 
Jonquilles,  large  double  and  single;   sweet  scented;   both  very  desirable  for 

forcing. 

In  large  collections,  all  the  above  varieties  of  Narcissus  are  desirable.  The 
number  of  bulbs  required  will,  of  course,  depend  upon  the  space  that  can  be 
spared  for  them.  Like  other  kinds  of  bulbs,  it  is  well  to  have  a  good  supply  in 
reserve,  as  they  need  not  be  in  the  conservatory  or  drawing-room  more  than  three 
or  four  weeks;  consequently,  a  large  number  will  be  required  for  from  Decem- 
ber until  May,  the  season  that  the  amateur's  time  is  wholly  taken  up  with  the 
scores  of  favorites  that  now  claim  care  and  attention,  out  of  doors. 


Fig.  34.— Basket  of  Mixt-«l  Bulbs. 


WINDOW    GARDENING. 


14' 


Crocus. 

The  Crocus,  which  has  for  many  ages  been  cultivated  as  an  ornament  to  our 
flower  gardens,  can,  if  properly  managed,  be  made  an  effective  plant  for  the  con- 
servatory or  ordinary  house  culture.  The  first  thing  of  importance  attending 
their  culture  is  early  planting,  which  should  be  attended  to  early  in  September. 
Few  bulbs  suffer  more  from  being  kept  too  long  out  of  ground  than  these.  The 
soil  best  adapted  to  them  is  a  rich,  light,  sandy  loam.  Plant,  for  a  good  display, 
six  to  ten  bulbs  in  a  pot,  colors  to  be  arranged  according  to  taste.  A  few  small 


Fig.  35. — Box  of  Bulbs  growing  in  SaiuL 

pots,  with  but  one  color  in  each,  contrasts  better  with  other  plants  in  the  window 
than  larger  pots  of  mixed  sorts.  When  planted,  plunge  the  pots  out  of  doors, 
same  as  Hyacinth,  and  let  them  remain  until  Christmas,  when  they  may  be 
brought  in  and  given  plenty  of  light  and  air,  keeping  cool  until  they  begin  to 
show  bloom,  when  they  may  be  placed  in  the  window  as  wanted.  With  these 
precautions,  a  fine  display  can  be  had.  A  succession  of  bloom  may  be  kept  up 
by  bringing  in  as  wanted.  Disappointment  generally  arises  from  keeping  them 


Fijj.  36.— Tile  Box  tilled  with  Bulbs. 

too  warm  in  the  early  stages  of  their  growth.  The  following  varieties  are  the 
best  for  pot  culture,  giving  very  large  flowers  of  great  substance,  with  rich  and 
very  beautiful  colors : 

Albion,  very  large  white. 

Albertine,  white,  striped  violet 

Charles  Dickens,  largo  purple. 


[48  WINDOW  GARDENING. 

David  Rizzio,  deep  purple. 

Florence  Nightingale,  large,  fine  white  purple  throat. 

La  Majesteuse,     violet-striped,  on  a  delicately  tinted  ground. 

La  Neige,  snow  white. 

Mont  Blanc,  large,  pure  white  ;  purple  base. 

Mammoth,  very  large,  pure  white. 

New  Golden  Yellow — The  bulbs  of  this  variety  are  very  large,  each  bulb  pro- 
ducing from  ten  to  fifteen  flowers. 

Queen  Victoria,  fine,  pure  white. 

Sir  Walter  Scott,  beautifully  pencilled  lilac,  very  large,  and  of  great  substance. 

Lord  Palmerston,  sky  blue ;  very  pretty. 

Cloth  of  Gold,  golden  yellow,  striped  brown ;  one  of  the  earliest  varieties. 

Princess  af  Wales,  very  large,  and  fine,  pure  white. 

After  flowering,  throw  away,  as  they  do  not  do  well  after,  and  the  low  price 
they  are  sold  at  enables  a  replenishment  at  less  cost  than  the  trouble  of  saving. 

Bulbocodium,  or  Red  Crocus, 

Commonly  known  as  Spring  Colchicum,  is  a  charming  plant  for  pot  culture, 
requiring  the  same  treatment  as  the  Crocus;  flowers  of  purple  red,  which  are 
produced  in  great  numbers  from  a  single  bulb.  They  may  be  brought  in  about 
the  middle  of  December,  and  will  flower  at  Christmas.  They  require  plenty  of 
water  during  flowering,  after  which  they  should  be  slowly  dried  off  until  tht 
leaves  dry  up;  then  lay  away  for  next  season's  flowering. 

The  Snowdrop. 

This  ever  popular  and  charming  little  flower,  the  first  to  welcome  spring  when 
planted  in  some  snug  corner  where  the  sun  loves  to  linger,  is  quite  at  home  in 
the  window-corner.  It  thrives  finely  in  a  light,  sandy  loam  ;  does  not  require 
to  be  particularly  rich.  If  planted  in  pots  alone,  six  can  be  put  in  a  three-inch 
pot,  which  should  have  the  same  treatment  as  the  Crocus,  a  little  freezing  being 
very  beneficial  to  them.  They  make  a  lovely  border  to  the  pots  or  boxes  of 
Hyacinths,  the  same  treatment  answering  equally  well  for  both.  The  double  is 
larger  and  better  for  pot  culture  than  the  single ;  the  latter  is  the  earlier  of  the 
two.  It  is  of  no  use  to  plant  these  bulbs  unless  it  is  done  in  September,  for 
they  soon  spoil  from  dry  rot  if  left  long  out  of  ground.  For  house  culture  the 
better  plan  is  to  take  from  the  open  border  where  the  bulbs  have  remained  undis- 
turbed a  number  of  years.  With  these  success  is  almost  certain,  while  with 
newly  imported  bulbs  failure  is  not  uncommon. 

TJie  Winter  Aconite, 

Is  a  charming  little  plant,  with  golden  blossoms,  which  expand  simultaneously 
with  the  Snowdrop,  and  with  which  it  contrasts  finely.  After  flowering,  the 
foliage  makes  a  beautiful  edging  for  pots  or  jardinets. 


WINDOW  GARDENING. 
The  Iris 

But  few  plants  present  such  rare  beauty,  and  rich  combination  of  color  as  the 
Iris.  The  name  was  given  it  by  Pliny  and  Theophrastus,  from  the  variety  of  its  col- 
ors. Of  the  many  hundred  varieties,  the  bulbous  rooted  sorts  are  the  only  ones 
that  succeed  well  in  pots.  The  method  of  culture  is  simple,  requiring  a  rich 
loamy  soil.  Only  three  or  four  bulbs  should  be  planted  in  a  six-inch  pot,  which 
should  be  filled  about  one  quarter  full  with  broken  pots  for  drainage,  then  fill 
with  soil,  and  press  the  bulb  in  so  that  the  top  of  the  bulb  will  be  even  with  the 
rim  of  the  pot.  Give  but  very  little  water  until  they  show  growth  ;  after  which  it 
may  be  given  more  freely. 

The  English  Iris,  for  brilliancy  of  color  and  vigorous  foliage,  takes  rank  among 
the  handsomest  of  flowering  bulbs,  they  grow  nearly  two  feet  high,  and  produce 
during  June  and  July,  a  succession  of  large  and  beautiful  flowers.  This  variety  is 
too  large  to  become  popular  as  a  window  plant. 

The  Spanish  Iris,  differ  materially  from  the  English,  though  no  less  beautiful; 
they  are  not  as  large  as  the  former,  and  bloom  somewhat  earlier,  which  makes 
them  more  desirable  for  pot  culture. 

Iris  Pavonia,  or  Peacock  Iris,  is  a  charming  little  plant  well  adapted  for  pots. 
The  bulbs  are  quite  small — not  much  larger  than  peas.  They  should  be  planted  . 
in  September  or  October,  in  a  light  turfy  loam.  Plant  three  or  four  bulbs  in  a 
four-inch  pot,  which  should  be  kept  in  a  cold  frame  until  toward  Spring  when 
they  may  be  brought  in  and  watered  moderately  ;  they  will  soon  begin  to  make 
growth,  and  will  flower  early  in  April. 

Jris  Persica,  is  the  best  for  forcing.  Plant  the  same  as  I.  Pavonia ;  they  will 
flower  almost  as  soon  as  brought  in  ;  the  colors  are  white,  blue,  purple,  and  violet. 
They  are  highly  prized  for  their  delicious  fragrance,  which  is  fully  equal  to  the 
violet.  This  sort  will  bloom  in  water  like  Hyacinth. 

Jm  Susiana,  is  one  of  those  beauties  that  baffle  description.  It  is  one  of  the 
best  for  the  "window,"  flowering  freely  in  pots,  jardinets  or  vases.  It  is  ths 
earliest  sort,  consequently  the  most  desirable  for  winter  decoration. 

The  Ixias,  and  sister  cape  bulbs  the  Sparaxis,  Babianas  and  Tritonias,  are 
amongst  the  most  graceful,  attractive  and  beautiful  of  cape  flowering  bulbs. 
Though  differing  considerably  in  style  and  habit  of  growth,  they  require  the  same 
cultural  treatment.  They  succeed  best  in  good  turfy  peat.  Plant  about  the  first 
of  October,  three  or  four  in  a  four-inch  pot,  which  should  be  placed  in  a  cold 
frame,  protected  from  severe  frosts  and  heavy  rains.  They  should  be  brought  in 
about  the  first  of  March ;  they  will  at  once  commence  growth  and  flower  early  in 
April. 

The  color  of  the  Ixias  are  of  every  conceivable  shade,  forming  some  of  the  most 
remarkable  contrasts.  The  habit  of  the  plant  is  most  graceful,  and  when  a  quan- 
tity are  in  bloom,  the  effect  of  it  is  most  pleasing.  In  selecting  these  bulbs, 
choose  named  sorts,  for  the  same  reason  you  would  many  other  bulbs,  viz:  bulbs 
in  mixture  are  apt  to  be  bulbs  of  the  more  common  sorts. 


J5Q  WINDOW   GARDENIXG. 

Sparaxis,  are  more  dwarf  and  compact  in  habit  than  the  Ixia,  while  their  col- 
ors are  as  varied  and  beautiful.  For  pot  culture  and  window  decoration  they 
cannot  be  too  strongly  recommended. 

The  Tritonia,  in  habit  and  form,  is  very  similar  to  the  Sparaxis.  They  are 
plants  of  rare  beauty,  colors  principally  selfs.  For  good  effect  about  twice  as  many 
bulbs  should  be  put  in  a  pot  as  of  the  Ixia. 

Hie  Babiana,  in  habit  and  growth,  is  nearly  the  same  as  the  two  former,  but 
as  unlike  in  color  as  is  possible  for  such  near  relatives.  While  the  others  are 
mostly  crimson  and  white,  with  their  various  shades,  these  are  nearly  all  purple 
and  blue.  Together,  they  are  most  desirable,  and  are  annually  becoming  more 
extensively  used  for  window  decoration. 

Ranunculus. 

This  family  is  almost  endless  in  variety,  embracing  some  of  the  most  common 
forage  plants.  While  the  Persian  and  Turban  varieties  produce  the  most  elegant 
and  diversified  colored  flowers,  that  for  symmetry  and  compactness  are  unequaled. 
When  properly  grown  they  are  completely  covered  with  flowers  nearly  as  large 
and  quite  as  desirable  as  roses.  But  little  attention  has  been  given  them  as  pot 
plants ;  our  experience  with  them,  as  such,  has  been  most  pleasing,  having  had 
more  truly  handsome  flowers  than  from  almost  any  other  plant,  with  the  same 
amount  of  trouble  and  expense. 

For  winter  flowering,  if  possible,  select  roots  that  have  been  kept  out  of  ground 
the  previous  season  as  they  come  into  flower  much  earlier  than  those  taken  up 
the  previous  summer.  The  roots  keep  well  in  a  dry  place  for  two  years,  so  that 
a  succession  of  bloom  can  be  obtained  by  planting  at  proper  intervals,  the  whole 
season. 

The  Ranunculus,  requires  a  strong,  fresh,  loamy  soil,  made  very  rich  by  well 
rotted  cow  manure ;  with  such  components  use  equal  parts.  For  early  bloom- 
ing, commence  potting  the  first  of  August.  Use  four-inch  pots,  into  which  put 
three  roots  of  separate  colors,  selection  of  which  to  suit  the  taste ;  place  the  roots 
firmly  in  the  mould,  and  cover  half  an  inch;  plunge  the  pot  or  put  in  a  shaded 
frame ;  bring  in  as  wanted,  commencing  the  first  of  October,  give  them  a  light 
warm  situation,  and  shade  from  the  sun  which  completely  destroys  their  bright 
colors. 

For  flowering  the  whole  season,  pot  from  August  to  April,  and  forward  as 
wanted.  The  Persian  varieties  are  the  earliest,  consequently  should  be  planted 
first,  to  be  followed  by  the  Turban  varieties.  These  two  are  the  only  varieties 
desirable  for  pot  culture  ;  but  there  are  hundreds  of  named  sorts,  to  be  selected 
from  seedsmen's  catalogues  that  generally  list  the  most  desirable  kinds.  After 
blooming  they  can  be  dried  off  gradually,  put  in  a  dry  place  and  kept  for  next 
year's  flowering.  The  low  price  they  are  sold  at  does  not  make  it  an  object  to 
keep  them  for  flowering  the  second  year,  as  roots  grown  in  the  open  border  are 
generally  more  satisfactory. 


l\'JM)Ul\r    U 

Anemone. 

Of  this  plant  there  are  nearly  a  hundred  species,  each  with  its  score  of  varie 
ties,  many  of  them  present  some  of  the  finest  forms  of  floral  beauty.  The  double 
varieties  are  the  best  suited  for  the  conservatory,  and  for  which  they  are  admira- 
bly adapted;  the  foliage  is  extremely  beautiful,  the  bright  green  contrasting  well 
with  the  dazzling  brightness  of  the  bright  scarlet  and  purple  flowers  that  grow 
in  profusion.  They  require  the  same  general  treatment  as  the  Ranunculus,  only 
that  a  little  sea  sand  or  salt  should  be  mixed  with  the  soil.  For  a  succession  of 
bloom,  plant  from  September  until  March.  Those  planted  in  September  will 
flower  in  latter  part  of  March  or  the  first  of  April,  while  those  planted  in  March 
will  flower  by  the  middle  of  June. 

We  list  the  following  from  many  we  have  bloomed,  and  should  recommend 
them  for  pot  culture. 

Feu  Surperbe,  bright  scarlet. 

Hose  Surpassante,  rose. 

Queen  of  the  Netherlands,  white  and  rose,  fine. 

Ly  Ornament  de  la  Nature,  rich  dark  blue. 

Lord  Nelson,  violet. 

Queen  Victoria,  bright  scarlet,  a  free  bloomer. 

Rembrandt,  carmine. 

SJiakspeare,  beautiful  blue. 

Von  Schiller,  dark  brilliant  blue. 

The  above  collection  includes  the  most  striking  and  positive  colors,  and  are 
such  as  bloom  well.  Many  others  might  be  added  to  the  list  without  materially 
increasing  the  value  of  the  collection. 

The  Cyclamen. 

About  this  flower  but  one  opinion  can  be  entertained, — that  it  is  the  most 
beautiful  bulbous  rooted  plant  ever  introduced  for  the  parlor  or  conservatory,  and 
its  beauty  is  fully  equaled  by  its  adaptation  for  the  same  purpose.  We  are 
fully  justified  in  making  this  assertion,  by  the  greatly  increased  interest  taken 
in  it  by  florists,  amateurs,  and  the  lovers  of  flowers  in  general.  Ease  of  culture 
is  an  additional  feature  in  their  character  and  much  in  their  favor.  The  diffi- 
culty in  propagation  alone  has  prevented  their  becoming  a  florists  flower.  The 
roots  or  bulbs  of  the  Cyclamen  being  a  solid  corm,  they  will  not  divide  success- 
fully ;  consequently  the  only  means  of  propagation  is  from  seed,  which  must  be 
gathered  soon  as  ripe,  slowly  dried,  and  planted  in  a  green  house  in  heat ;  they 
must  be  kept  constantly  growing  until  they  are  in  full  flower.  This  part  we 
should  advise  the  amateur  to  leave  to  the  professional  florist  and  depend  upon 
such  for  plants  for  the  first  season. 

They  should  be  procured  soon  as  they  show  flower,  place  in  a  sunny  exposure 
and  not  be  allowed  to  get  chilled  in  winter.  They  are  generally  offered  for  sale 
about  Jan.  1st.  If  in  a  warm  room,  even  temperature,  and  kept  well  watered 
they  will  remain  in  flower  until  the  first  of  May  ;  after  flowering  they  should  b* 


152 

plunged  into  a  shady  border,  and  left  to  care  for  themselves  until  there  is  danger 
of  frost  when  they  should  he  taken  in,  repotted  in  a  compost  of  leaf  mold,  turfy 
loam  and  well  rotted  cow  manure  in  equal  parts;  use  pots  in  proportion  to  the 
size  of  the  hulb.  A  pot  twice  the  diameter  of  the  bulb  is  plenty  large ;  a  pot  six 
inches  in  diameter  is  sufficiently  large  for  the  largest  bulbs.  After  repotting, 
water  moderately  until  they  commence  growth,  then  apply  as  needed.  We  saw 
several  bulbs  last  season  that  had  not  been  shifted  for  several  years;  several  of 
them  gave  over  two  hundred  flowers  each  ;  more  exquisite  pot  plants  could  not 
be  had. 

ScMa, 

Of  various  kinds,  have  long  been  popular  as  early  spring  flowers;  S.  Siberica  is 
of  the  most  intense  blue,  and  is  a  perfect  gem,  whether  in  the  open  border,  in  pots 
or  any  device  that  is  used  for  Hyacinths,  Tulip  or  Crocus — it  can  be  mixed  with 
either  of  them  with  most  excellent  effect,  requiring  the  same  treatment.  The 
habit  of  it  is  exceedingly  dwarf,  growing  but  little  larger  than  the  Crocus.  The 
flowers  are  borne  on  a  slender  stalk,  of  bell-shape,  similar  to  a  minature  Hy- 
acinth. S.  Amoena,  is  also  very  beautiful  as  a  pot  plant,  being  a  little  taller 
and  later  than  the  Siberica — it  is  very  useful  as  a  succession.  There  are  ser- 
eral  other  varieties,  very  beautiful  for  out-door  cultivation  but  not  suitable  for 
pots. 

Muscari 

M.  botryoides,  the  Grape  Hyacinth,  is  remarkable  for  its  dwarf  growth  and 
neat  compact  heads  of  bloom.  The  three  varieties,  dark  blue,  light  blue  and 
white,  make  charming  clumps,  when  planted  in  pots  two  or  three  of  a  color  in 
each.  They  require  but  little  room,  a  six  inch  pot  being  sufficiently  large  for  a 
dozen  bulbs;  the  same  soil  and  treatment  recommended  for  the  Hyacinths  is  best 
suited  to  them.  After  flowering  they  may  be  allowed  to  ripen  off  slowly  and 
they  will  bloom  equally  well  for  a  number  of  years.  Muscari  Plumosum  or 
Feathered  Hyacinth,  does  not  thrive  well  in  pots  generally,  but  should  be  grown 
in  small  quantities.  Their  remarkable  plume-like  appearance,  so  unlike  any 
other  flower,  is  of  sufficient  importance  to  entitle  them  to  a  place  in  the  conserva- 
tory. Treat  same  as  the  other  varieties. 

Amaryllis. 

This  splendid -and  beautiful  family  has  not  as  yet  received  the  care  and  atten- 
tion, or  become  as  generally  cultivated  as  their  rarity  and  excellence  deserres, 
containing  as  it  does  so  many  varieties  of  surpassing  loveliness,  beauty  and  gran- 
deur. These  qualifications  alone  should  insure  them  a  place  in  every  "Win- 
dow" Garden.  Yet  they  have  other  recommendations  for  extensive  culture, 
namely,  that  they  can  be  made  to  produce  their  gorgeous  and  magnificent  flow- 
ers nearly  every  month  in  the  year.  They  are  on  this  account  invaluable  for 
the  conservatory  and  drawing  rooms,  which  can  be  kept  gay  by  the  many  truly 
elegant  varieties  as  we  now  possess  nearly  the  whole  winter.  The  length  of  time 


GARDEXIXG .  }  5  3 

they  keep  in  flower,  and  the  very  pleasing  variety  they  make,  is  another  jusk 
claim  they  have  for  a  high  place  among  decorative  plants. 

The  Amaryllis  delight  in  good,  light  turfy  loam,  with  the  addition  of  a  little 
well  rotted  cow  manure,  when  planted  in  large  pots,  and  all  the  conditions  of 
growth  are  favorable,  they  throw  up  magnificent  spikes  of  bloom.  A.  Johnsoni 
has  been  known  to  flower  twice  a  year,  a  single  bulb  throwing  up  at  one  time 
four  spikes,  each  giving  four  flowers.  A  more  splendid  flower  than  this  is,  it  is 
scarcely  possible  to  conceive.  We  scarcely  know  how  to  advise  the  amateur  in 
the  manner  of  treatment,  but  will  commence  with  the  dry  bulb,  which  should  be 
potted  in  the  above  compost,  say  in  a  six  inch  pot,  fill  nearly  to  the  rim  and 
press  the  bulb  firmly  in;  one-half  its  diameter  should  be  above  the  surface;  give 
it  a  thorough  watering,  and  place  on  a  shelf  in  moderate  heat :  it  will  not  requite 
further  attention  until  it  shows  signs  of  growth,  the  time  of  which  will  'depend 
wholly  upon  circumstances,  t.  «.,  how  long  it  has  been  dry,  the  time  of  year,  and 
whether  it  has  been  properly  cared  for  during  its  rest.  As  a  general  thing  the 
first  indication  of  growth  will  be  the  flower  stalk,  which  makes  almost  a  per- 
ceptible growth,  at  this  period.  Give  water  freely  once  a  week;  a  sprinkling  of 
liquid  manure  is  very  beneficial ;  give  plenty  of  light  and  moderate  heat  and  the 
first  flowers  will  be  perfected  in  two  or  three  weeks ;  large  well  developed  bulbs 
will  commence  to  throw  up  the  second  flower  stalks  about  the  time  the  first 
flowers  are  opened,  which  will  make  the  flowering  of  a  single  bulb  last  from  five 
to  sir  weeks. 

After  flowering  they  should  be  immediately  repotted,  no  matter  what  time  of 
year,  and  given  plenty  of  heat  and  water.  Fully  exposed  to  the  light,  they  will 
grow  most  luxuriantly  and  the  bulbs  will  grow  in  a  proportionate  degree,  laying 
up  strength  and  nutritive  matter  that  will  produce  in  due  season  another  crop  of 
magnificent  flowers.  When  the  leaves  naturally  show  symptoms  of  ripeness  or 
decay,  water  should  be  gradually  withheld,  and  when  fairly  decayed  the  pots 
should  be  placed  in  a  dry,  airy  situation  away  from  the  frost  or  rain ;  here  they 
may  remain  for  two  months,  when  they  should  be  placed  in  a  tub  of  water  and 
left  an  hour,  then  placed  in  a  warm  room  for  flowering  again.  The  method  of 
culture,  as  recommended  here,  is  only  to  be  applied  to  those  known  as  Heppeas- 
trom,  which,  unlike  the  ValloU,  Belladona  and  other  varieties,  are  under  the 
florist's  control  and  can  be  made  to  flower  the  whole  season.  An  enthusiast, 
whose  ten  by  fifteen  green  house  we  delight  to  visit,  grows  large  quantities  of 
Amaryllis,  Johnsoni  and  its  varieties,  and  gets  from  each  bulb  two  crops  of  flowers 
annually.  He  gives  each  two  months  for  flowering,  two  for  growth,  and  two  for 
rest,  which  he  considers  the  best  treatment,  and  no  one  that  has  seen  the  spikes 
of  bloom  that  he  produces  can  question  his  theory. 

Vattota  Purpurea, 

Is  one  of  the  finest  Amaryllis,  and  is  the  most  easily  managed.  They  are  not 
at  all  particular  as  to  soil,  will  grow  in  any,  but  prefer  the  same  as  recommended 
for  other  Amaryllis  But  few  plants  answer  as  well  or  make  as  fine  di.'pliy  for 


]54  WINDOW  GARDEXIXG 

the  window.  Unlike  most  other  plants,  they  do  not  require  shifting  but  will  grow 
from  year  to  year  in  the  same  pot,  tub  or  box  without  a  change  of  soil,  or  other 
care  than  to  give  them  plenty  of  water  while  flowering  or  in  their  growing  stato, 
and  moderate  watering  the  balance  of  the  season.  The  foliage  being  persistent 
they  require  attention  the  whole  year,  but  they  can  be  kept  under  benches,  in  a 
light  cellar  or  in  any  light  room  away  from  the  frost  during  the  winter,  and  in 
summer  anywhere  out  of  doors  upon  the  piazza,  the  lawn,  or  if  in  pots,  plunge 
in  the  border.  They  require  but  little  pot  room,  in  fact  do  better  when  root 
bound.  The  writer  had  a  clump  in  a  small  tub  last  season  that  gave  forty-one 
spikes  of  bloom;  the  plant  was  but  five  years  from  a  single  bulb.  It  is  truly  one 
of  the  finest,  cheapest  and  most  desirable  cape  bulbs. 

Its  season  of  fiowering  is  August  and  September,  and  we  have  neither  been 
able  to  coax  or  drive  it  into  flower  at  any  other  season. 

The  Lily. 

One  of  the  finest  flowers  in  every  sense  of  the  word,  too  well  known  to  need 
description.  Every  one  knows  what  a  Lily  is.  Most  every  one  knows  how  to 
grow  it.  Our  only  regret  is  that  it  is  not  better  adapted  for  the  window.  All 
or  nearly  all  the  varieties  can  be  grown  in  pots,  as  well  as  in  the  border.  The 
only  objection  for  the  "  Window "  being  the  season  of  flowering,  that  is  from 
July  to  September  in  the  open  border.  Many  kinds  will  not  vary  but  a  few 
days  with  any  treatment  we  have  tried.  The  following  varities  are  an  exception 
to  the  rule,  and  can  be  made  to  bloom  early  in  April. 

I 
Lilium  Candidum. 

L.  Candidum,  or  common  garden  Lily,  more  generally  known  than  any  other, 
and  we  think  one  of  the  finest.  In  fact,  as  much  as  we  admire  and  love  the  whole 
family,  could  we  have  but  one,  it  would  be  this  one  ;  can  be  forced  for  the  con- 
servatory better  perhaps  than  any  other.  It  must  be  potted  in  August,  soon 
after  flowering,  while  at  rest.  Here  let  us  remark  that  while  many  other  kinds 
can  be  moved  at  almost  any  season  of  the  year,  this  one  cannot,  only  when  at 
rest,  a  period  of  not  more  than  four  weeks  duration.  There  has  been  more  dis- 
appointment in  buying  this  than  all  others  together,  as  orders  given  for  it  in 
spring  will  most  likely  be  filled  by  seedsmen  generally;  and  not  one  that  has 
been  kept  out  of  ground  during  the  winter  will  bloom  the  following  summer.  It 
generally  takes  two  years,  frequently  three,  before  they  can  be  made  to  flower, 
when,  if  taken  up  at  the  proper  time  and  planted  at  once,  they  are  certain  to 
flower.  The  reason  in  simple  enough;  they  make  the  bulb  in  fall  that  is  to  bloom 
in  spring,  and  if  they  are  not  allowed  that  privilege  they  simply  bide  their  time 
at  the  expense  of  the  grower's  good  nature. 

The  bulbs  should  be  placed  in  six  inch  pots,  top  of  the  bulb  even  with  the  rim 
of  the  pot.  Soon  as  potted  plunge  in  the  border  to  save  trouble.  Bring  in  be- 
fore heavy  frosts  and  place  on  slight  bottom  heat ;  water  freely;  give  plenty  of 
light  and  air  and  they  will  come  into  flower  by  Easter.  They  will  bloom  with 


WINDOW  GARDENING 

out  bottom  heat  in  the  window  by  giving  them  a  warm  sunny  situation,  but  do 
far  better  with  it.  The  best  soil  for  them  is  a  light  turfy  loam,  one-third  well 
rotted  cow  manure.  Fresh  manure  must  not  be  used  in  any  case  without  a 
crop  of  disappoinments  is  preferable  to  a  crop  of  Lilies. 

Liliun  Longiflorum. 

Another  beautiful  pure  white  Lily,  succeeds  well  in  pots,  requiring  the  same 
soil  and  general  treatment  as  the  Candidum.  The  bulbs  of  this  variety  can  be 
obtained  from  November  until  spring.  For  the  window  they  should  be  potted 
early  in  November,  and  kept  moderately  wet  and  warm  until  they  show  sign  of 
growth,  when  they  can  be  put  in  position  for  blooming.  As  a  house  plant  the 
habit  of  this  makes  it  more  desirable  than  most  any  other.  It  is  very  dwarf 
rarely  growing  more  than  fifteen  inches  high. 

Liliun  Auratum, 

The  praise  of  which  would  fill  a  volume  as  its  fragrance  would  fill  a  house,  is 
another  sort  that  succeeds  well  in  a  pot,  box  or  any  other  way  in  which  it  may 
be  planted,  if  we  except  a  highly  enriched  soil  which  would  be  fatal  to  it.  It 
will  come  into  flower  about  the  first  of  May,  with  the  same  treatment  as  the  fore- 
going. 

We  know  of  no  other  Lilies  that  are  well  adapted  for  the  Window  Garden,  not 
having  been  successful  in  growing  others  in  this  way.  For  out  of  door  culture 
we  most  heartily  beg  leave  to  introduce  the  whole  family  from  the  least  to  the 
greatest  to  all  lovers  of  flowers. 

The  Tuberose. 

It  is  nearly  three  hundred  years  since  the  Tuberose  first  flowered  in  Europe, 
having  been  sent  from  the  "West  Indies,  by  Father  Minuti,  to  one  of  the  celebrated 
gardens  near  Toulon,  about  the  year  1594.  It  is  to  day  the  same  pure,  modest, 
unassuming  and  deliciously  fragrant  flower  it  was  then.  It  is  one  of  those  gems 
that  no  one  would  change  if  they  could,  or  could  if  they  would.  It  may  be  con- 
sidered perfectly  beautiful  from  the  fact  of  its  being  the  first  sought  after  on 
all  occasions,  whether  of  joy  or  mourning.  It  is,  too,  one  of  the  few  flowers  that 
can  be  had  at  all  seasons  of  the  year.  The  only  difficulty  being  the  selection  of 
bulbs,  which  should  in  all  cases  be  left  to  the  experienced  grower  or  responsible 
dealer,  as  not  one-half  the  bulbs  sold  will  produce  flowers  under  any  circum- 
stances ;  not  that  it  is  difficult  to  grow  good  bulbs,  but  it  is  to  properly  cure  and 
keep  them  ready  for  planting.  Dry  bulbs  can  be  obtained  at  all  times  which 
are  the  ones  for  forcing  or  planting  out.  It  is  of  but  little  use  to  take  up  bulbs 
that  have  grown  in  the  garden  during  the  summer  for  flowering  in  pots  in  the 
"  Window."  To  be  successful  use  five  inch  pots,  fill  with  a  mixture  of  loam  and 
well  rotted  manure  in  equal  parts,  press  the  bulb  in  about  one-half  its  length  and 
place  it  in  a  hot  bed,  or  plunge  the  pot  on  a  bench  of  the  green  house  where  they 
can  have  a  gentle  bottom  heat,  which  is  a  necessity  for  flowering.  They  very 


156 


WINDOW   GARDENING. 


soon  begin  to  grow  and  should  be  kept  warm  and  watered  freely.  Soon  as  they 
throw  up  the  flower  sta'ik  remove  to  the  conservatory,  when  they  will  soon  flower 
and  remain  in  bloom  for  several  weeks.  Good  bulbs  should  average  twenty 
flowers  to  a  spike.  After  flowering  throw  away,  as  the  bulb  only  flowers  once 
Stock  is  kept  up  by  off-sets.  Those  who  do  not  have  the  convenience  of  a  green 
house  or  hot  beds  for  starting  the  bulbs  must  do  the  next  best.  We  have  fre- 
quently started  them  on  the  mantel  in  the  kitchen,  by  taking  a  box  narrow  and 
long  enough  to  hold  three  or  four  pots,  which  are  put  in  the  box  filled  with 
ashes  or  tan  which  should  be  kept  wet  to  better  retain  the  heat.  They  will 
start  very  well  in  this  way  using  wood  ashes  for  mulch.  A  Bulb  which  we  once 
had  flowered  in  the  pot  and  gave  us  forty-five  large  and  perfect  flowers.  For  an 
ordinary  Window  Garden,  one  or  two  pots  at  a  time  is  quite  sufficient.  The 


. — Classes  used  as  Bouqnet  Holders. 

most  convenient  way  and  about  as  cheap  a  one  as  any,  is  to  buy  bulbil  with  flow 
er  stalks  started  from  a  florist.  This  is  meant  to  apply  to  the  large  number  that 
love  flowers  but  do  not  like  to  work  for  them. 

Acliimenes. 

These  tuberous  rooted  plants,  generally  classed  with  bulbs,  are  charming  for 
growing  in  pots,  pans  and  hanging  baskets,  either  in  assorted  or  individual  col- 
ors. The  flowers  combine  great  individual  beauty  with  richness  and  brilliancy 
Much  importance  should  be  attached  to  the  Achimenes  from  the  ease  in  which 
they  can  be  induced  to  flower  in  the  winter.  The  best  soil  for  growing  them  is 
a  light  rich  loam.  The  tubers  should  be  put  singly  in  three  inch  pots  and  placed 
in  as  warm  a  situation  as  the  conservatory  affords.  Where  bottom  heat  can 


WINDOW  GARDENING.  157 

be  given  them  they -will  do  much  better.  A  moist  atmosphere,  with  the  ther 
mometer  from  70  to  80  degrees  at  mid-day,  are  requisites  for  specimen  plants 
After  flowering,  gradually  withhold  water,  turn  the  pots  on  their  sides,  in  a  dry 
place  where  they  can  remain  until  wanted  the  following  season.  When  at  rest 
they  should  remain  in  the  pots.  If  long  exposed  to  the  air  the  roots  become 
worthless.  By  starting  at  intervals  of  three  to  four  weeks  a  succession  of  bloom 
may  be  kept  up  the  whole  season. 

Lily  of  the  Valley. 

Who  does  not  know  and  admire  this,  the  loveliest  child  of  the  floral  family  ( 
Why  it  is  not  found  in  every  garden,  conservatory,  "  window,"  or  greenhouse, 
it  is  difficult  to  imagine,  for  there  is  scarcely  a  plant  more  easily  cultivated  than 
this.  It  is  easily  forced  into  bloom,  and  may  be  kept  in  succession  from  Christ- 
mas until  May.  For  winter  or  spring  flowering,  take  from  tho  border,  clumps 
as  large  as  will  fill  pot,  box,  or  any  device  in  which  they  are  wanted  to  bloom, 
using  a  rich  strong  loam.  After  potting,  plunge  out  of  doors,  where  they  will 
be  sure  to  freeze  hard.  Any  time  after,  they  may  be  brought  into  the  greenhouse 
or  conservatory,  where  they  should  be  given  bottom  heat,  and  kept  at  the  high- 
est possible  temperature ;  100°  with  a  moist  atmosphere,  will  very  soon  bring 
them  into  flower ;  a  less  heat  will  answer,  but  they  will  not  come  into  flower 
as  quickly.  Light  is  by  no  means  necessary,  as  they  do  quite  as  well  on  the 
floor,  under  the  bench,  or  the  pipes,  as  anywhere  else.  When  once  in  flower 
place  in  any  desirable  situation.  To  maintain  a  succession  a  reserve  should  be 
kept  in  a  cold  frame  or  pot,  and  brought  in  as  required.  For  small  pots  it  is 
best  to  select  only  the  strong  crowns;  place  four  to  six  in  a  pot  three  inches  in 
diameter,  and  treat  as  above  stated.  After  flowering,  separate  and  plant  in  a 
strong  rich  soil,  where  they  should  remain  undisturbed  for  two  years,  when  they 
will  be  strong  enough  for  forcing  again. 

Illustrations. 

The  Jardinets  illustrated  in  Figs.  24  to  27 — are  constructed  of  pottery  ware, 
rilled  with  sand  in  the  interior,  with  here  and  there  an  opening  for  the  spike  of 
flowers  to  grow  from  the  bulb.  Figs.  28,  30  and  31 — are  costly  porcelain,  in- 
tended as  elegant  mantel  piece  ornaments.  The  remaining  illustrations  are  very 
SIMPLE,  and  need  no  special  explanation. 


FERNERIES,  WARDIAN  CASES,  AND  FERN  DECORATIONS. 

The  fern  case  offers  to  us  the  very  simplest  of  all  means  of  household  plant 
pleasures.  Many  who  cannot  afford  a  green  house,  or  conservatory,  or  go  to  the 
expense  of  fitting  up  a  plant  cabinet,  will  find  an  abundant  solace  in  this  simple 
and  inexpensive  method  of  growing  indoor  plants. 

The  use  of  these  small  glass  cases  for  plants,  are  numerous.     They  occupy  very 


Fig.  38.— Fern,  (Platyloma  cordata. 

little  room,  are  usually  ornamental  enough  to  be  placed  on  any  table  or  parlor 
stand.  When  once  filled,  they  need  little  or  no  attention  for  many  weeks  ;  require 
no  unusual  care  as  to  watering;  can  be  readily  removed  from  one  room  to  another ; 
are  not  as  quickly  affected  by  changes  of  temperature  as  plants  in  the  open  air 
of  our  sitting  rooms. 

But  a  more  favorable  feature  in  their  use  is  «een  when  we  say  that  they  afford 


WIND  0  W    GA  RDEX1XG 


159 


the  only  successful  means  for  obviating  the  effect  of  the  dry  heated  air  of  our 
dwellings.     They  are  reached  by  no  dust,  are  free  from  the  noxious  exhalations 


of  coa!  fires  or  gas  lights  ;  and  when  a  breath  of  cold  air  accidentally    enters  the 
room  they  are  nol  chilled  nor  frosted  if  the  thermometer  in  the  room  should  chance 


160 


WIND  0  W   GA  RDENINQ  - 


to  go  below  35°.     Their  styles  are  so  various  and  prices  so  reasonable,  that  any 
one  can  be  suited  at  prices  of  from  S3  to  $25. 

To  any  one  living  amid  the  anxieties  of  a  troublesome  parlor  gardens  which 
they  cannot  manage,  there  are  but  one  or  two  satisfactory  ways  left  for  enjoy- 
ment. Either  get  a  fern  case,  or  be  satisfied  with  a  simple  hanging  basket. 

The  Wardian  Case. 

The  history  of  the  Wardian  or  fern  case,  dates  back  to  1829,  when  a  gentleman 
by  the  name  of  Ward,  of  London,  first  noticed,  accidentally,  the  growth  of  vegeta, 


Fig.  40.— A  Parlor  Fernery 

tion  under  a  close  glass.  He  had  laid  down  the  chrysalis  of  an  insect  with  some 
mould  within  a  glass  bottle,  and  covered  it  over.  A  short  time  afterward,  as  he 
describes  it,  "a  speck  or  two  of  vegetation  appeared  on  the  surface  of  the  mould 
and,  to  his  surprise,  turned  out  to  be  a  fern  and  a  grass.  His  interest  was 
awakened ;  he  placed  the  bottle  in  a  favorable  situation,  and  found  that  the 
plants  continued  to  grow  and  maintain  a  healthy  appearance." 

This  was  the  first  idea  of  the  Wardian  case.  In  1842,  Mr.  Ward  published 
his  discovery  relating  to  the  "  growth  of  plants  in  closely  glazed  cases,"  in  a  vol- 
ume which  contained  the  result  of  his  experiments  in  raising  plants,  and  also  the 
way  he  made  his  discovery.  In  1851,  the  Wardian  case  made  its  first  success- 
ful appearance  in  public,  at  the  "  Worlds  Fair,"  and  from  that  time  to  this  it 
has  become  more  gradually  known  and  better  appreciated.  Very  few  have  yet 


WIXD  0  W   GA  KDENING. 


lul 


ariy  knowledge  of  it,  but  it  is  one  of  the  few  things  which  in  time  will  be  as  pop- 
ular as  flowers  themselves  are,  and  every  window  will  be  decorated  with  thmr 
presence. 

It  has  been  an  invaluable  means  of  introducing  to  the  floral  world,  and  suc- 
cessfully growing  many  most  delicate  plants  from  the  tropics  which  otherwise 
would  scarcely  ever  have  been  seen  out  of  their  native  haunts.  By  its  use  the 
Botanist  has  been  enabled  to  transport  plants  to  and  from  great  distances  through 
extremes  of  climate;  and  yet  so  unfailing  has  been  the  working  of  it  that  cases 
judiciously  planted  have  been  knovn 
to  maintain  their  freshness  and  vigor 
for  nine  years,  and  no  air  or  water 
was  ever  supplied  in  that  time. 

It  is  quite  curious  to  watch  its 
operation,  and  to  many  it  is  evidently 
as  much  of  an  enigma  as  a  plea- 
sure. 

Apparently,  moisture  is  constantly 
being  condensed  and  deposited  on 
the  glass  sides  of  the  case.  This 
supplies  the  plants  within,  who  give 
it  out  again,  and  yet  none  escapes  ; 
thus  affording  the  spectacle  of  a  little 
world  by  itself. 

This  moisture  is  very  desirable  for 
the  growth  of  ferns,  and  in  no  other 
form  can  they  be  so  successfully  and 
evenly  maintained  as  here  ;  nor  can 
any  other  variety  of  plants  furnish 
so  interesting  a  study. 

The  Lycopodiums  are  very  suitable 
and  grow  very  satisfactorily.  They 
drop  their  pendant  roots,  and,  under 
the  influence  of  the  moisture,  spread 
rapidly  along  the  surface  of  the  earth 
in  the  case,  and  filling  up  the  bare 
spots,  make  a  velvety  covering  of  light 
feathery  green,  thus  inducing  shade 

and  moisture.  Ki«.  41.-A  Fern  Vase. 

Countless  seedlings  of  ferns  and  lycopodiums  will  Spring  up,  of  the  different 
varieties,  and  their  unfolding  fronds  and  subsequent  development  will  be  exceed- 
ingly interesting  to  you.  You  will  be  agreeably  astonished  and  surprised  when 
some  fern,  supposed  by  you  to  be  dead,  suddenly  raises  its  head  above  the  sur- 
face and  shoots  rapidly  upward  to  let  you  see  its  vitality  is  not  to  be  questioned. 

As  a  pleasure,  ihen,  the  Wardian  case  deserves  a  cordial  reception  ;  but  it  will 


~  r-r  " 


102 


GA RDEN1NG 


be  far  more  welcome  to  that  class  of  our  plant  lovers  who  have  often  felt  the  dis- 
appointment in  their  pot  plants,  many  of  the  best  of  which,  notwithstanding  the 
closest  care,  will  show  the  yellow  leaves  and  drop  off,  or  the  buds  develop 
but  an  imperfect  blossom  ;  the  fern  case  will  prove  to  be  their  refuge  in  distress, 
a  never  failing  source  of  interest  and  amusement. 

Principles  of  the  Fern  Case. 

Let  us  understand  the  principles  of  fern  cases  and   the  operation   and  life  of 
plants  within.     Those  of  you   who  have   observed   plants  under   bell   glasses  DV 


Fig  -12. 

shades,  have  noticed  that  the  moisture  often  collects  so  quickly  inside  as  to  actu- 
ally obstruct  or  prevent  the  plant  from  being  seen,  and  have  wondered  where  this 
moisture  came  from. 

The  answer  to  this  question  is  simple  :  "  From  the  earth,  the  plants,  "by  exha- 
lation^ \.  e.  vegetable  perspiration."  But  you  ask  again:  "  Wliy  does  it  collect 
so  largely  ?"  and  we  reply :  "Simply  because  we  confine  it,  and  prevent  its  escape 
and  evaporation  by  making  our  case  airtight.  Tf  the  case  were  ventilated,  its  tem- 
perature would  be  moderated  to  correspond  with  the  atmosphere  of  the  sitting 


WINDOW    GARDENING 


163 


room.     And  this  is  the  very  thing  we  do  not  want.      Our  case   then  should  be 
made  air  tight,  for  the  purpose  of  not  only  confining  this  moisture,  but  of  keep 


ing  a  constant  and  abundant  supply  of  it,  for  the  plants  must  have  a  COligenJfc] 
atmosphere  of  their  own  and  cannot  live  without  the  proper  moisture. 

You  cannot  expect  your  ferns  or  plants  to  grow  uicyly  in  this  moist  atmosphere 


164 


WINDOW  GARDENING 


if  }*ou  open  the  case  every  few  days :  It  has  the  same  effect  as  change  of  climate, 
or  open  air  exposure  to  a  sick  person  accustomed  only  to  the  air  of  the  house. 
The  confinement  of  ferns  in  these  close  cases  has  the  tendency  to  make  them 
delicate,  and  the  sudden  opening  of  the  case,  with  the  introduction  of  the  hot, 
dry,  dusty  air  from  the  rooms,  is  against  all  reason. 

It  is  sufficient  to  say,  there- 
fore, that  when  once  planted 
and  closed,  the  fern  case  needs 
no  ventilation.  Let  it  live  by 
itself. 

Drainage. 

This  point  comes  up  for  dis- 
cussion, and  the  only  answer 
we  give  is  to  ask  another  ques- 
tion :  "  Do  plants  need  drain- 
age when  the  water  is  being 
constantly  evaporated  and 
thrown  off  in  the  open  space 
above  the  plants  ?"  In  other 
words,  the  plants  are  draining 
themselves  constantly.  Here 
is  one  great  advantage  of  the 
fern  case  .over  the  pot  plant, 
the  latter  requires  constant 
watering,  the  former  none  at 
all,  for  no  water  escapes.  Then 
a  fern  case  may  be  handled 
with  impunity  by  one  in  whose 
hands  we  would  not  trust  a 
row  of  pot  plants,  and  so  is 
be}rond  the  reach  of  the  care- 
less or  forgetful. 

filanagcment. 

Whether  your  case  is  of 
wood,  glass,  or  metal,  yon  will 
require  a  pan  in  which  to  hold 

4.— A  Fern  Window  nnd  Aqtmrinm.  the  plants.    Zinc  pans  answer 

every  purpose,  combining  economy  and  duraoility.  Tin  should  not  be  used  as 
it  will  soon  rust  and  wear  out. 

No  pan  should  be  less  than  four  inches  deep,  unless  the  plants  are  very  dwarf 
specimens,  and  then  an  inch  less  in  depth  will  do,  though  there  might  be  some 
risk  of  crowding  the  roots  too  much.  Then,  again,  too  great  a  depth  is  objec- 


WIND  OW   GA  RDEN1NG. 


1G5 


tionable.  The  best  rule  to  observe  is  as  follows  :  Ferns,  whose  fronds  are  not  over 
eight  inches  in  length,  should  be  planted  in  a  pan  four  inches  in  depth.  Larger 
ferns  may  require  a  pan  five  to  six  inches  in  depth,  but  four  inches  will  generally 
be  found  sufficient  for  all  purposes. 

Those  who  try  the  shallow  and  deep  pans  will  soon  find  how  much  more  freely 
their  plants  grow  when  plenty  of  space  is  allowed  for  their  roots.  A  side  open- 
ing to  the  glass  case  is  to  be  preferred  in  all  cases,  whether  by  hinged  doors  or 
sliding  panes.  This  avoids  reaching  in  at  the  top  of  the  fern  case,  which,  besides 
being  extremely  awkward,  often  results  in  the  breaking  of  the  fronds  or  the 
leaves. 

The  height  of  the  case  is  an  impor- 
tant point.  Under  glass,  a  plant  or 
fern,  will  often  develop  a  greater  "" 
length  of  frond,  than  under  any  dif- 
ferent circumstances.  Make  your  cases 
high,  so  that  all  fronds  may  have  room 
to  develop  and  expand  to  full  size  ;  and 
the  height  should  not  be  less  than  — ! — 

twice     the    diameter.       In    cramped  __, 

quarters,  and  cases  chosen  perhaps  too 
small,  filled  with  too   robust  plants, 
their     growth    is     often    summarily ' — i —  jlj 
checked  by   reaching  the  top   of  the  -    I  f^jji 
glass  ;  there  the  fronds  with  no  chance       f_\{/; 
to  get  higher,  lie  flattened  out  against 
the  surface  of  the  glass  collecting  an 
undue    amount    of    moisture,   which  — 
soon  causes  it  to  mould  or  damp  off.  __ 
It  becomes  unsightly,  and  the  beauty 
of  many  rare  and  fine  looking  speci- 
mens is  endangered. 

The  forms  and  construction  of  fern  -J^ 
cases  will  differ  with  the  tastes  of  each  ——I 
individual.  We  do  not  recommend  at- 
tempts at  "  home  made  "  Cases,  On  the  Fig.  45.-Ferns  in  a  Window  Garden, 
side  of  mere  economy,  for  there  are  now  cases  already  prepared  for  use,  at  so  cheap 
prices,  and  obtainable  at  proper  places,  that  it  is  a  waste  of  time  to  make  one 
yourself.  Very  desirable  cases  are  now  imported,  constructed  of  bases  of  pottery, 
with  dishes  all  complete,  and  the  glass  shade  ready  to  fit  upon  the.  top — only 
wanting  the  soil  and  the  plants  from  the  florist.  Very  good  cases  are  also  made 
of  wood  bases,  and  the  cost  for  either  will  not  exceed  $3  for  circular  cases  12 
inches  in  diameter,  to  $6  or  $10  for  18  inches  to  2  ft.  in  diameter. 

The  larger  your  case,  the  better,  provided  it  is  not  too  bulky.  It  should  be  in 
a  form  easily  handled,  light  in  weight ;  and  if  square,  or  in  any  other  form  than 


1GG 


WL\D  0  I  V   GA  RD  ENIXG. 


round,  should  have  a  sinall  door  to  reach  the  plants  without  lifting  the  glass  top. 
The  soil  for  fern  cases,  should  be  carefully  attended  to;  no  common  garden 
earth  will  answer;  get  it  from  the  most  reliable  florist  if  possible, — and  even 
some  of  these  may  not  know  exactly  the  needs  of  the  plant.  For  ferns,  choose 
leaf  mould  one  part,  silver  sand  one  part,  dry  friable  peat  two  parts.  Avoid  that 
peat  which  comes  from  wet  unhealthy  situations.  Wherever  you  see  ferns  grow- 
ing near  the  edge  of  woods  or  running  streams,  you  can  be  safe  in  taking  p^me 
of  the  same  soil,  if  you  cannot  get  a  good  Compost  anywhere  else.  English  Hoists, 
who  have  access  to  special  materials,  make  up  a  particular  compost  of  the  °ol 


Fig.  46.— Heated  Fern  Case. 

.owing  materials  which  is  described  as  perfect.     Mix  equal  parts  of  silver  sand 
good  loam,  powdered  charcoal,  refuse  of  cocoanut  fibre.     If  you  wish,  you  maj 
cover  the  bottom  of  the  pan  with  a  layer  of  powdered  charcoal,  or  bricks  or  grave 
broken  to  the  size  of  hazel  nuts,  to  a  depth   of  one  inch,  if  pan  is  four  inches 
deep  ;  or  one  and  one-half  inches  if  6  inches  deep.  Do  not  take  the  advice  of  those 
who  recommend  filling  the  pan  half  full  with  small  charcoal ;  such  a  proportion 
is  unnecessary.     When  the  soil   has   been  placed  in  the   pan  press  firmly  that 
all  the  plants  may  be  set  solidly. 
Location  for  fern  cases.  They  will  do  well  anywhere,  and  that  is  just  what  the 


WINDOW   OARDENIXO. 


167 


Fij?.  47. — Feru  Caae. 


1G8 


WINDOW    GARDEXIXG 


amateur  wants.  They  may  be  shifted  from  one  window  to  another  at  pleasure,  with 
little  fear  of  dangerous  consequences.  If  placed  in  the  south  window  keep  them 
back  a  little  from  the  heat  of  the  midday  sun.  A  half  shady  position  is  much 
better  than  a  sunny  one.  A  northern  out  look  will  suit  ,them  admirably  if  not 
too  cold, — and  an  eastern  or  western  one  is  at  all  times  suitable. 

It  would  be  best  to  have  tables  provided  especially  for  the  fern  case  to  rest 
upon.  This  should  be  strong  and  yet  easily  moved  by  castors,  (use  the  brass 
ones,  not  the  rubber  or  wooden  ones.) 

If  the  cases  are  quite  small,  say 
within  9  inches  diameter,  they 
may  be  suspended,  and  some  of 
these  hanging  ferneries  are  quite 
ornamental. 

The  secret  of  good  management 
is  told  in  a  few  words,  viz.,  water 
icell  after  planting r,  then  shut  up 
your  case,  and  leave  it  to  itself. 

A  successful  fern  case  grower, 
writes  us  that  "  the  most  success 
ful  winter  I  ever  had  with  ferns, 
was  one  in  which  I  only  watered 
the  case  once  after  planting,  and 
only  opened  it  a  few  times  in  the 
seven  months  from  November  1st 
to  June  1st — and  then  to  remove 
dead  fronds." 

If  you  water  sufficiently  at  time 
of  planting,  (and  you  need  not 
water  any  more  than  ordinarily 
for  pot  plants,)  you  will  have  no 
occasion  to  water  again.  The 
closed  case  prevents  all  evapora- 
tion. 

Some  fronds  of  course  will  die 
or  turn  brown.     These  must   of 
course  be  removed.     Insects  may 
invade  your  little  plant  home,  and 
Fig.  48.— Kern  Pillar.  these  must  be  removed,  but  there 

will  not  be  many  and  they  are  easily  disposed  of. 

Some  of  our  florists  recommend  ventilation  for  the  case,  feeling  that  the  plants 
will  be  much  the  better  for  the  pure  air  and  the  sunlight.  This  may  be  done 
only  when  the  temperature  of  the  outer  and  inner  air  is  about  the  same,  and  only 
for  a  short  time.  It  should  not  be  done  frequently,  but  may  be  tried  at  long 
intervals  of  one  or  two  months. 


WINDOW   GARDENING. 


169 


Avoid  too  much  moisture.  If  there  should  be  too  much  inside  the  case,  open 
it  daily  until  a  little  has  evaporated  into  the  outer  air,  and  then  close  again.  It 
will  not  need  watering  or  opening  again  for  a  month  or  mare. 

'    Plants  for  The  Fern  Case. 

In  arranging  your  plants  place  the  strongest  growers  m  the  centre,  and  the 
smaller  at  the  sides. 

Besides  standard  plants  in  the  fernery,  there  are  often  introduced  little  hang- 
ing plants  suspended  from  the  top  of  the  glass  frame.  Plants  for  this  purpose 
are  simply  taken  out  of  their  pots,  their  balls  of  earth  are  surrounded  with 
moss,  tied  with  copper  wire,  a  loop  running  from  which  is  fastened  into  a  hook 
in  the  top,  and  then  it  becomes  a 
miniature  hanging  basket.  In  Eng- 
land small  pots  of  gutta  percha  are 
manufactured  for  this  express  pur- 
pose. 

You  will  perhaps  be  advised  by 
some  florists  not  to  choose  for  your 
fern  case  any  of  our  native  plants, 
because  it  is  difficult  to  transplant 
them  from  their  native  soil,  just  at 
close  of  summer  when  they  have 
done  growing,  and  compel  them  to 
continue  life  continuously  there- 
after, in  opposition  to  their  nature, 
which  demands  rest  during  the, 
winter  season.  Nevertheless  it  is 
done,  and  many  a  pretty  fern  case 
is  indebted  to  some  plant  treasure 
of  this  character  stolen  from  Syl- 
va's  bowery  retreats,  to  grace  the 
setting  room;  they  still  thrive,  de- 
spite the  prognostications  of  wise  Fig.  49.— Parlor  Fern  Stand  covered  with  Glass. 

heads  as  to  failure.  The  Lygodium  palmatum,  or  Climbing  Fern,  is  very  suit- 
able, and  can  be  usually  found  in  shady  or  moist  spots  in  any  of  our  Eastern 
States.  It  has  a  slender  running  root  and  stalk,  from  which  proceed  twining 
flexible  stems,  with  very  smooth  palmate  leaves  or  frondlets ;  these  running 
stems  or  stalks  are  often  three  feet  long,  and  the  whole  plant  resembles  in  growth 
a  delicate  little  Ivy.  Besides  its  suitableness  for  the  Fern  Case,  it  is  especially 
desirable  for  Rock  Work  in  a  conservatory. 

The  Partridge  Vine,  (Mitchella,)  is  also  invaluable,  for  its  brilliant  scarlet 
berries  enliven  the  sober  green  of  the  ferns  or  form  an  excellent  contrast  with 
the  mosses.  Take  up  large  vines  of  it,  with  as  many  berries  as  you  can  procure ; 


170 


WINDOW  GARDENING. 


if  they  are  green  when  found,  they  will  turn  red  very  shortly;  for  covering  soil 
and  otherwise,  naked  or  exposed,  it  is  excellent. 

The  Trailing  Arbutus  (Epigcea  repens)  usually  forms  its  buds  in  October  or 
November,  and  blooms  with  full  flower  by  January.  These  flowers  are  highly 
prized  for  their  delicious  fragrance,  and  it  may  be  considered  one  of  the  choicest 
for  our  selection. 

The  Maidens'  Hair  Fern 
(Asplenium)  is  the  first  fa- 
vorite for  the  Fern  Case,  the 
loveliest  of  our  native  ferns. 
It  may  be  found  on  some 
sheltered  hill  side,  or  away  in 
some  deep,  moist  woods, 
known  by  its  black,  hair  like 
stems,  and  curiously  shaped 
fronds.  Gather  some  of  the 
very  smallest  specimens,  and 
let  them  grow  ;  take  them  up 
roots  and  all.  When  you 
gather  up  the  roots  take  up 
also  soil  enough  to  fill  your 
zinc  tray  or  box.  It  will 
stand  transplanting  better  if 
its  proper  soil  is  carried  with 
it.  It  will  not  be  amiss  to 
take  home  an  abundance  for 
other  purposes,  to  fill  in  the  pots  for  Fuchsias,  Roses  and  Carnations,  which 
grow  in  your  windows.  Among  other  plants  which  you  can  transplant  from  the 
woods,  are 

The  Gaultlieria  procumbens,  or  Wintergreen. 
Chimaphilla,  or  Pipsinima,  various  species. 
Pryola,  or  False  Wintergreen,  various  species. 

Sarracenia  purpurea,  or  Side  Saddle  flower;  their  cups  must  be  kept  full  of 
water. 

Cypripedium,  or  Lady  Slipper,  or  Maccaron  Flower. 
Speranthes,  or  Lady  Tresses,  various  species. 
Dionaea    muscipula,  or  Venus'  Fly  Trap. 

The  American  Lycopodiums,  or  Club  Mosses,  are  all  very  desirable.  Many 
of  them  are  used  freely  for  decorations  at  Christmas.  The  best  varieties  are 
denticulatum,  Wildenovii,  umbrosa,  dendroideum,  lucidulum. 

The  daintily  cut  foliage  of  the  Captis  trifoliata  or  Gold  Thread,  will  form  a 
pretty  feature,  and  the  Linewood,  or  Hepatica,  with  its  blue  e}res,  will  be  no  less 
lovely.  The  Wild  Lily  of  the  Valley  (Convallaria)  will  open  its  tiny  white 
belli  long  before  they  open  in  the  meadow  or  at  the  brookside. 


WINDOW   GARDENING. 


171 


If  you  look  for  other  mosses,  larger  than  the  Lycopodiumt  you  can  take  the 
Polystichum,  or  Hair  Cup  moss  ;  Patraphis,  or  four  toothed  moss;  Splachnum, 
or  Umbrella  moss.  You  will  need  plenty  of  these  green  mosses  or  white  lichens 
or  the  Sealing  Wax  moss,  to  pack  about  the  roots  of  your  plants,  and  help  keep 
up  a  cool,  wild,  woody  home-like  retreat.  The  following  are  the  most  generally 
preferred  Ferns : 

Potypodium,  various  species. 

Struthiopteris,  Ostrich  Fern. 


Fig.  51.— Group  of  Fern  Sheila. 

Pteris,  or  Brocken. 

Adiantum,  or  Maiden  Hair. 

CheilantheSy  or  Lip  Fern. 

Woodwardia. 

Camptosaurum,  or  Walking  Fern. 

Asplenium,  or  Spleen  wood. 

Dicksonia. 

Cystopterit,    or  Bladder  Fern 


172 


WINDOW  GARDENING* 


Woodsia. 

Polystichum,  or  Shield  Fern. 
Onoclea,  or  Sensitive. 

Davallia  Canariensis,  or  Hairs  Foot  Fern. 

If  your  fern  case  is  large  enough  you  may  add  one  or  two  large  plants,  such  as 
the  Dracaena  terminalis,  or  Nobilis;  the  Dieffenbacliia  variegata,  is  very  showy. 
The  Pandanus  or  Ananassa  may  be  admitted,  and  if  you  have  plenty  of  room, 
there  is  no  objection  to  the  Crotons  with  their  handsomely  variegated  foliage,  the 

Cissus  discolor,  with  blood  red 
leaves  and  half  trailing  habit, 
the  variegated  leaved  Begonias, 
also  the  Gesneriasy  Caladium, 
Colocfisias,  MarantaS)  Cacti, 
Saxifragas,  Sedum. 

Avoid  complication  or  crowd- 
ing. If  your  case  is  of  but  mode- 
rate size,  say  two  feet  in  diam- 
eter, use  only  one  or  two  large 
upright  plants;  but  if  smaller 
than  this  stick  only  to  the  ferns 
and  mosses. 

Among  other  additional  plants 
are  : 

The  (Goodyera pubescens)  Rat- 
tlesnake Plaintain ;  leaves  varie- 
gated, dark  green,  with  white 
veins. 

The  (Erytlironium)  Dogs' 
Tooth  Violet,  whose  leaves  are 
green  mottled  with  brown. 

For  trailing  purposes  perhaps 
nothing  is  better  than  the  Lysim- 
achia,  or  Moneywort,  and  the 
Coliseum  Ivy.  Orchids  may  be 

Fig.  52.-or«ja.uentai  Feru  Case  and  stand.  added,  if  there  is  plenty  of  room, 

and  nothing  will  give  more  satisfaction. 

Do  not  expose  those  ferns  with  variegated  foliage  to  severe  sunlight,  as  they 
will  suffer  injury.  Neither  should  delicate  ferns  be  watered  on  the  leaves.  Some 
whose  leaves  appear  but  mere  powder  or  dust,  such  as  the  Golden  or  Silver  Fern, 
will  lose  their  beauty  if  thus  treated,  and  perhaps  may  be  killed  outright. 

Exotic,  or  Green  House  Ferns. 

Should  you  have  ill  success  with  your  native  plants  and  be  undecided  what 
to  do  we  think  it  best  for  you  to  fall  back  upon  something  more  suitable,  and 


WINDOW  GARDENING 


173 


begin  in  a  more  simple  manner,  by  going  to  the  nearest  green  house,  where  ferns 
•are  grown,  and  procure  some  small  seedlings.  These  come  up  in  great  quantities 
in  the  pots,  also  on  the  earth  of  the  pan  on  which  the  pots  rest,  and  in  fact 
everywhere  that  the  spores  chance  to  sow  themselves.  You  can  in  this  way 
frequently  get  a  half  dozen  varieties  of  ferns.  Among  them  probably  one  or  two 
Adiantums,  a  Doodia,  and  several  varieties  of  Pteris.  These  are  the  ferns  most 
likely  to  produce  seedlings,  when  the  spores  are  scattered  over  a  moist  surface. 

After  these  have  been  transferred  to  the  fern  case,  their  daily  growth  will 
afford  you  a  very  pleasant  and  interesting  study ; 
the  gradual  change  and  growth  of  the  frond  from 
the  first  appearance  to  the  full  development  will 
amply  repay  you  for  your  patience  in  waiting. 

This  is  the  true  way  to  enjoy  plant  cases  ;  begin 
with  the  rudiments  and  learn  step  by  step  the 
nature  of  the  plants. 

For  moderate  sized  cases  we  must  select  ferns 
of  size  and  habit  suitable  for  them. 

The  best  of  those  found  in  green  houses  are  : 

Adiantum  capillus  Veneris,  A  assimile,  A 
acristatum,  Doodia  aspera,  D.  caudata,  Pteris 
geraniefolia,  P.  Cretica,  albo  lineata,  P.  hetero- 
phylla,  P.  serrulata,  Blechnum  gracile,  Asplen- 
ium  auritum,  and  A.  bulbiferum.  There  are 
many  others,  but  a  simple  list  like  this  is  suf- 
fficient. 

For  tall  ferns  choose  Polypodium  Aurcum,  P. 
appendiculatum,  Pteris  argyrea,  Asplenium 
Brasiliense,  Adiantum  macrophyUum,  Anemia 
Phyliti^is. 

In  planting  your  ferns  do  not  crowd  them 
together,  but  gi  •<--.  room  for  the  full  development 
of  the  fronds;  their  growth  is  rapid  and  many 
soon  double  their  original  size  when  first  pur- 
chased. Alternate  the  different  varieties  if  pos- 
sible,'and  do  not  get  two  or  three  plants  of  the 
same  kind  together.  A  fine  delicate  fern  always 
looks  more  graceful  and  pretty  beside  a  variety  with  a  full  broad  frond.  So 
a  light  green  or  variegated  plant  will  show  to  better  advantage  beside  one 
with  a  dark  green  frond.  In  choosing  your  soil,  make  say  of  three  parts 
rich,  black  peaty  mould,  one  part  coarse  sand  and  gravel  siftings  mixed,  and  one 
part  broken  charcoal,  see  that  the  pieces  of  charcoal  are  broken  to  the  size  of 
cranberries,  and  well  mixed  with  the  earth  ;  the  whole  should  only  be  broken 
up,  not  sifted. 


Fig.  53.— Parlor  Fern  Stand. 


174 


WIND  0  W   OA  R  DEN  ING 


After  you  have  put  the  plants  in  the  case,  watc  r  with  a  small  watering  pot 
with  a  fine  nose.  Saturate  the  earth  pretty  thoroughly,  but  not  to  make  it 
muddy.  There  are  many  other  varieties  of  the  Lygodiums  not  mentioned  above 
Lygodium,  apodum,  densum,  caesium,  arboreum,  fyridophyllum,  their  roots  will 
extend  over  the  earth,  covering  all  the  bare  spots  with  a  fresh  green  carpet  of 
delicate  growth. 

Should  we  be  able  to  procure  a  plant  of  the  greenhouse  species  of  climbing 
teTUjLygodiumflexuosum,  or  L.  japonicum,  another  beautiful  object  will  bo 
added. 

Among  the  climbing  ferns,  are  some  of  the  most  graceful  ferns  in  the  whole 
family  of  Filices.  There  is  one  plant,  however,  not  a  fern,  which  does  exceed- 
ingly well  in  a  fern  case,  and  is  remarkably  interesting.  We  refer  to  Ificus  *f//> 
ulata.  This  plant,  a  vine,  is  a  free  grower,  and  climbs  up  the  sides  of  our  case 
by  its  roots,  which,  aided  by  the  moisture  on  the  glass,  spread  and  adhere  to  it 


ililUlliiitilllUlillllllllllllllll 

Fig.  54.— Plant  Case. 

It  is  a  hard  wooded  plant,  roots  quickly  from  cuttings,  and  grows  so  freely  as  to 
fill  a  moderate  sized  case  very  rapidly. 

After  you  have  become  accustomed  to  growing  ferns  in  the  case,  you  will  per- 
haps crave  a  little  variety.  This  can  be  easily  had.  Suppose  you  look  a  little 
into  the  curiosities  of  growth  and  reproduction. 

If  you  look  on  the  under  side  of  the  fern  fronds,  you  will  find  something  re- 
sembling a  brown  powder,  adhering  to  them  thickly  in  regularly  distributed 
masses  of  varied  shapes,  depending  upon  the  species. 

Examining  with  the  magnifier  or  microscope,  you  find  them  to  be  seeds  or 
spores. 

Shake  these  spores,  which  appear  like  the  veriest  dust,  over  the  surtace  of  the 
earth  in  an  ordinary  fern  case,  after  it  has  been  well  smoothened.  The  earth 
should  be  watered  very  thoroughly  previous  to  scattering  the  spores 


WINDOW  GARDENING. 


175 


In  about  a  month  or  six  weeks,  looking  carefully  across  the  surface  of  the 
earth,  you  see  the  slightest  specks  of  green;  again  examining  with  the  microscope 
you  find  them  living  organisms  of  vegetation  ;  and  when  at  a  later  date  they  be- 
come of  good  size,  it  is  with  no  little  satisfaction  to  be  able  to  say,  that  they  were 
the  seedlings  sown  by  your  own  hand.  If  in  your 
travels  in  the  woods,  you  carry  an  herbarium  with 
you,  you  can  gather  the  fronds  of  every  variety  you 
meet,  which  contains  fertile  spores. 

Spores  from  such  an  herbarium  should  be  planted 
as  soon  as  convenient  to  insure  germination.  Spores 
have  been  known  to  germinate  as  long  as  eighteen 
months  after  being  gathered,  while  under  favorable 
circumstances  germination  in  spores  has  taken  place, 
when  sown  eight  or  ten  years  after  they  were  col- 
lected. From  your  spores  you  will  get  a  quantity  of 
seedlings,  many  of  them  of  strange  forms,  and  some  to 
differ  from  the  parent  plant. 

We  may  find  frequently  several  fronds  on  the  same  Fig.  55.— Arborette. 

plant  differing  very  materially.  Thus  your  love  and  knowledge  of  plant  life  in- 
creases, and  you  willl  cherish  your  fern  case  with  more  than  customary  pleasure, 
for  it  opens  up  a  new  world  to  you. 

One  thing  only  remember  i.  e.,  keep  out  of  your  fern  case  all  the  common  bed- 
ding plants,  such  as  Geraniums,  Petunias,  Verbenas,  Roses,  Fuschias,  &c.,  for  they 
cannot  well  stand  the  confined  moist  air. 

Designs  for  Fern  Decorations. 

A  home  made  plant  case  can  be  constructed  as  fol- 
lows :  Get  your  carpenter  or  cabinet  maker  to  con- 
struct a  shallow  box,  of  fine  wood,  say  black  walnut, 
about  two  feet  wide,  and  three  or  three  and  one-half 
feet  long.  The  bottom  board  should  be  about  an  inch 
and  a  half  thick,  and  project  about  an  inch  beyond 
the  sides.  The  sides  should  be  of  inch  stuff,  and  the 
depth  six  or  seven  inches.  See  that  the  corners  are 
well  dovetailed  together,  and  on  the  inside  of  the  tops 
cut  a  groove,  into  which  to  set  the  glass. 

The  size  of  your  glass  should  be  about  two  feet 
square  for  the  ends,  and  two  feet  by  thirty-six 
inches  for  the  sides  and  top;  but  if  this  is  too  large  and  expensive  a  case, 
you  can  construct  one  of  but  half  these  dimensions,  viz.,  twelve  inches  square 
for  the  ends  and  twelve  by  eighteen  inches  for  the  sides  and  top.  Many 
like  to  have  their  cases  made  for  them  with  pitched  roof,  like  design  No 


Fig.  S6.— Ferns  in  Arborette. 


176 


WINDOW    GARDENING. 


40,  and  with  wooden  frames  same  as  for  windows.  All  that  it  needs  is  to  fit  tne 
glasses  into  the  frames  and  seal  the  sides  up  tightly  with  putty. 

The  frame,  as  it  sets  into  the  lower  wooden  box,  should  also  be  fastened  well 
with  putty,  to  make  it  tight ;  and  on  the  outside  you  may  fasten  a  very  pretty 
little  moulding,  which  will  cover  the  top  of  the  wood, 
and  set  snugly  up  to  the  glass.  You  will  of  course 
take  care  to  have  a  little  door  cut  in  the  back  glass, 
say  about  six  inches  by  eight  or  ten,  opening  or 
sliding,  whenever  necessary  to  introduce  water,  or 
remove  insects  and  dead  leaves. 

In  Fig.  42,  the  upper  pane  maybe  made  movable 
Next  you  will  need  a  tray  to  go  inside  the  wooden 
frame  work.    This  should  be  of  nearly  the  same  size 
as  the  box,  but  smaller  so  as  to  fit  inside.     This 
tray  should  be  constructed  of  zinc,  and  may  be  made 
with  a  double  bottom  of  an  inch  in  height,  a  small 
hole  being  cut  in  the  upper  one,  for  the  purpose  of 
Fig.  57.— Ari.orette.  carrying  off  any  surplus  water.     The   filling  and 

planting  have  already  been  described.  Place  some  broken  charcoal,  or  tine 
brick  or  gravel,  in  the  bottom  of  the  upper  pan,  and  then  your  compost  over 
this.  If  your  wood  is  well  moulded,  and  sides  ornamented,  the  case  will  be  a 
very  handsome  ornament.  Cases  such  as  we  describe,  are  now  made  and  sold 
at  prices  of  from  $20  to  $30,  by  all  our  large  floral  warehouses. 

Should  you  wish  to  construct  a  little  rockery  in  the 
fernery,  select  pieces  of  stone,  sharp  pointed,  or  with 
rough  jagged  sides.  You  will  often  find  them  in  some 
moist  spot  in  the  woods,  already  half  covered  with 
moss ;  then  build  them  up  one  above  the  other  until 
you  have  made  the  form  of  an  arch.  Start  the  stones 
from  the  very  bottom  of  the  tray,  mix  the  soil  well 
with  them  wherever  possible,  into  all  the  interstices, 
and  if  it  is  necessary  to  get  cement  to  make  them 
firm,  do  so.  Then  set  set  your  ferns  in  all  the  rugged 
interstices  of  the  stones,  wherever  you  have  placed 
the  earth,  and  they  will  soon  cover  it  with  their  leaves, 
and  their  roots  will  reach  into  all  the  crevices. 

Design  No.  40,  is  about  the  size  we  have  described, 
constructed  in  a  more  than  usually  ornamental  style.  It  is  very  suitable  for 
all  kinds  of  ferns,  and  Lycopodiums,  Small  Orchids,  small  species  of  the  Draco, 
ena,  Croton  pictum,  Cr  variegatum,  ApTielandra  Leopoldi,  Gymmostachys,  Ver 
shaffeltii,  Eranthemum,  ifineum,  Passiflora  trifasciata,  Alocassia,  Caladium,  and 
Fittonia  argentea. 

Fig.  41  shows  one  of  the  simplest  of  all  fern  decorations  in  the  form  of  a  neat 


Fig.  58.— Arborette. 


WINDOW   QARDENINO. 


177 


rase ;  the  bowl  is  filled  with  the  proper  soil,  and  its  surface  is  covered  with 
moss.  In  the  centre  is  a  nicely  shaped  plant  of  the  Maiden  Hair  Fern,  whose 
appearance  gives  a  delightfully  cool  and  refreshing  feeling  in  the  room.  A  very 
pretty  effect  could  be  produced  by  inserting  little  tubes  of  glass  or  tin  (such  as 
are  used  for  holding  cut  flowers,)  in  the  soil  here  and  there  among  the  moss, 
then  filling  with  water  and  inserting  at  intervals  clipped  blossoms  of  some  of 
your  winter  blooming  flowers,  Geraniums,  Roses,  Fuchsias,  &c.,  or  perhaps  a 
clipped  blossom  from  your  climbing  vines.  Arranged  any  way  it  is  in  fact  a 
beautiful  object  for  the  drawing  room  or  conservatory. 

In  Fig.  39,  is  shown  a  most  charming  fernery,  the 
property  of  Mrs.  Shirley  Hibberd,  at  Stoke  Newington, 
London,  England.  This  conservatory  was  located  where 
sunshine  was  excluded  on  account  of  neighboring  build- 
ings and  large  trees,  and  a  fern  house  was  constructed. 
Rockeries  were  built  up  on  two  sides  of  the  house,  and 
in  the  crevices  were  planted  ferns  and  lycopodiums.  The 
floor  was  covered  with  neat  tiles,  and  with  the  naturally 
graceful  character  of  the  plant  the  conservatory  was  pe- 
culiarly ornamented.  The  rockeries  were  made  almost 
entirely  of  big  blocks  of  peat,  and  on  the  top  near  the 
glass  were  planted  a  few  Sedums,  Sempervivums,  and  FIS.  59. 

other  succulent  plants.  Mr.  Hibberd,  in  his  description  of  the  fernery,  in  his 
volume  "  Rustic  Adornments  for  Homes  of  Taste,"  states  that  for  the 


twelve  years  about  a  hundred  and  fifty  species  and  varieties  have  thriven  here 
making  summer  all  the  year  round  in  their  perennial  greenness. 

The  finest  selections  of  ferns,  as  recommended  by  him 
for  such  a  house,  are  theAdiantums,  Asplenium,  Adian- 
tum  nigrum,  Athyrium,  f. /.,  A.  f.  f..  crispa,  Gymno- 
gramma  leptophylla,  Doodian,  Scolopendriums,  Wood- 
wqrdia  radicans,  Equisettim,  Sylvaticum,  and  Selaginettas. 

Water  was  given  daily  during  the  warm  weather; 
in  spring  and  autumn,  twice  a  week  was  sufficient,  and  in 
winter  once  in  two  or  three  weeks  The  plants  must, 
however,  never  be  left  to  get  dry. 

Miss  Mai  ing,  an  English  lady  writer  on  indoor  plants, 
has  invented  a  case  (Fig.  42)  which  contains  room  for 
a  hot  water  apparatus  in  the  zinc  pan.  Her  princi- 
ple is  to  supply  a  cool  or  a  heated  end  in  the  fern  case,  according  to  the  necessities 
of  the  plants.  "  Hardy  or  greenhouse  plants  last  long  in  flower  at  one  end  in 
the  cool  temperature ;  stove  plants  and  forced  flowers  come  on  beautifully  in 
the  heated  part.  If  all  your  plants  in  the  case  are  hardy,  then  use  no  heat.  If 
our  ferns  or  flowers,  though  not  wanting  heat  specially,  should  damp  off;  we 
give  heat  just  for  a  time  to  change  the  air  entirely.  At  ten  minutes  notice  the 

12 


Fig.  60. 


178 


WIND  0  TI'   GARDENING, 


Fig.  61. 


heat  can  be  raised  to  any  degree  up  to  90°.  The  cases  are  of  two  sizes,  the  larger 
ones  being  about  four  feet  long,  by  two  wide,  and  two  high,  while  the  boxes  on 
which  the  glassed  frames  rest  are  eight  inches  deep.  The  boxes  are  lined  with 
zinc,  and  fitted  with  hot  water  apparatus.  No  lamp  or  any  heater  is  required, 
hot  water  only  being  used,  which  is  poured  in  through  a  concealed  opening  from 
without,  and  when  cold  is  let  off  by  another  opening. 

This  water  maintains  the  temperature  at  a  height 
sufficient  for  most  plants  for  twenty-four  hours  without 
refilling;  but  when  greater  heat  is  required  it  can  be 
raised  to  any  degree  from  65°  to  90°,  by  adding  more 
hot  water  after  the  first  twelve  hours.  The  upper 
glass  sash  is  movable,  and  by  a  button  or  hook  is 
lifted  at  any  time  ventilation  is  needed  or  you  wish  to 
examine  the  plants.  This  principle  of  heating  the  case 
is  principally  for  the  sake  of  bringing  into  flower  and 
keeping  in  good  health  many  tender  stove  plants,  as  well 
as  other  delicate  plants  which  cannot  stand  either  a  cool 
or  a  dry  atmosphere." 

The  general  outline  and  construction  of  Miss  Maling's 
plant  case  is  very  similar  to  the  "  home  made  case"  we  have  previously  des- 
cribed. Heating  will  be  unnecessary  if  amateurs  will  only  choose  but  the 
ordinary  native  or  greenhouse  ferns,  and  keep  the  case  well  closed  away  from 
cold  air. 

But  it  seems  to  us  if  the  case  is  to  be  heated  at  all, 
it  should  be  divided  into  two  apartments,  one  end  for 
plants  needing  the  warm  temperature,  the  other  for 
the  cool  temperature,  or  else  put  no  plants  in  the  case 
unless  they  are  all  to  be  treated  alike. 

Whenever,  in  the  mind  of  a  beginner,  there  appears 
to  be  a  doubt  as  to  what  to  choose,  take  the  Lycopodium 
denticulatum,  and  other  varieties  of  L.  caesium,  apodum, 
heloctica,  or  variaUlis  will  always  appear  to  advantage  ; 
also  the  Pteris  cretica  albo  lineata,  or  Cyrtomium  fal- 
catum,  do  remarkably  well,  being  very  strong  growers." 
These  Fern  Pillars  are  also  made  of  Terra  Gotta,  in 
England,  with  openings  in  appropriate  places  for  set- 
Fig.  62.  ting  in  the  bricks.  The  columns  are  also  constructed  so 
as  to  permit  a  glass  screen  to  shut  completely  over  them  and  rest  upon  the  base, 
thus  giving  the  same  effect  as  a  Wardian  Case.  Fig.  49  shows  another  design  on 
a  table,  with  a  glass  top  also.  Fig.  50  shows  one  of  the  largest  styles  of  fern 
bricks,  as  it  rests  fitted  into  a  fire  screen. 

Fig.  51  is  much  more  elaborate,  and  shows  what  maybe  done  either  in  the  sidfe 
of  a  wall  or  a  conservatory,  or  to  occupy  a  large  fire  place.     These  are  mad* 


WINDOW  GARDENING. 

in  the  form  of  square  pieces  of  pottery,  which  may  be  nailed  flat  against  the 
wall.  In  the  lower  portion  of  the  front  appears  a  projection  of  a  shell,  and  with- 
in it  is  a  small  cavity  for  holding  the  plants.  Being  of  various  sizes,  any  style 
of  arrangement  can  be  ingeniously  formed,  and  at  slight  expense. 

These  designs  are  as  yet  unknown  in  the  United  States,  but  can  be  quickly 
imported  to  order  by  any  one;  or  our  pottery  manufacturers  could  soon  supply 
any  demand  by  making  any  pattern  and  casting  therefrom. 

They  are  elegant  in  appearance  and  effect,  and  the  general  testimony  is  to  the 
effect  that  the  ferns  thrive  very  well  in  them. 


Fig.  63.— Fern  Staud.  Pig.  64.— Fern  Stand. 

Pigs.  52  and  53  introduce  several  pretty  Parlor  Ferneries,  of  easy  manufacture, 
the  former  in  the  shape  of  a  rectangle,  about  2  feet  long  by  one  and  a  quarter  foot 
wide,  and  two  feet  in  height.  The  other  with  six  sides,  curving  to  the  top, 
from  which  suspends  a  little  wire  hanging  basket.  These  designs  are  so*n 
constructed  by  any  cabinet  maker. 

A  pleasant  story  is  told  of  a  gardener  near  London,  England,  who,  instead  of 
following  the  invariable  fashion  of  devoting  the  high  stone  walls  surrounding  his 
enclosed  garden,  to  wall  fruit,  determined  to  cover  it  with  ferns. 

"  The  wall  was  14  feet  in  height  and  400  feet  in  length.  It  was  then  very  old, 
and  having  been  originally  built  of  a  dark  red  brick,  much  in  use  in  that  day 
m  the  district,  it  had  a  venerable  and  picturesque  appearance.  From  the 
ground  line  to  the  summit  it  was  all  the  summer  long  dotted  over  with  ferny 
tufts  of  herbage,  some  sparkling  with  the  hue  of  emerald,  others  shading  off  to 


WINDOW  GARDENING. 


rich  shades  of  brown  and  orange ;  and  the  delicate  tracery  of  those  with  finely 
divided  fronds,  wonderfully  set  off  like  vegetable  lace  against  the  dark  back- 
ground of  the  weather-worn  brick. 

Nail  holes  had  been  made  here  and  there,  where  in  former 
times  were  fastened  the  branches  of  peach,  apricot,  cherry, 
and  plum  trees  to  ripen  their  crops ;  but  they  had  long  ago 
been  given  up.  The  idea  occurred  to  him  to  convert  it  into 
a  perpendicular  fernery.  He  first  of  all  thrust  into  some  of 
the  large  holes  in  the  wall,  tufts  of  common  Polypody, 
making  their  creeping  roots  comfortable  with  turfy  peat, 
and  securing  them  from  falling  out  by  means  of  a  copper 
wire  passed  across  the  hole  and  held  to  the  bricks  by 
small  staples.  As  these  were  found  to  flourish  and  give 
the  wall  somewhat  the  aspect  of  a  ruin,  he  began  to  make 
holes  to  plant  others ;  and  by  degrees  the  wall  was  covered 
with  Hearts  Tongue,  Asplenium  adiantum,  the  Wall  rue 
fern,  the  Mountain  Polypody,  the  Alpine  cystopteris,  and 
Fig.  G5.  dozens  of  others  that  bear  drought  patiently,  and  naturally 

inhabit  rocks  and  waysides.  In  the  shady  chinks  next  the  butteries,  he  man- 
aged to  coax  the  Maiden  hair  to  make  luxuriant  fillets  of  herbage,  and  at  tha 
foot  of  the  wall  there  were  tufts  of  lastrea,  osmunda  royal, 
and  other  ferns  which  the  wall  itself  refused  to  nourish 
The  majority  of  these  held  their  verdure  far  into  the  winter , 
the  Hearts  Tongue  and  common  Polypodium  were  usually 
quite  green  the  whole  year  round;  and  during  the  winter 
their  rich  dottings  of  golden  spores  sparkled  ia  the  most 
cheerful  manner  against  the  dark  back  ground  of  sheets 
"of  ivy  and  red  brick.  Of  course  the  wall  itself  was  crown- 
ed with  SnapdragonSy  Wallflowers,  and  other  gay  tenants 
of  ruined  towers,  or  pines,  that  make  riot  of  man's  work, 
and  glorify  the  decay  of  art  with  the  triumph  of  nature." 
Figs.  55,  56,  57,  58,  introduce  several  "  Eustic  Terra 
Gotta  Arborettes"  These  are  made  of  Terra  Cotta,  or  pot- 
tery ware,  cast  in  a  rugged  form  resembling  the  projecting 
limbs  of  an  oak  tree  just  clipped,  and  with  cavities  opening 
downward  for  the  reception  of  earth  and  holding  plants. 
Some  of  them  have  a  solid  interior,  and  each  basin  is  by 
itself.  These  are  undesirable,  having  no  opportunity  for 
drainage ;  but  where  the  interior  is  entirely  hollow  and  can 
Fig.  6G.  be  entirely  filled  with  earth,  no  rustic  ornament  is  more 

suitable  for  fciTis  or  other  plants  to  live  in.     They  may  decorate  the  hall,  parlor, 
conservatory,   or  out  door  lawiL     Their  size  is  from  one  to  three  feet  high. 


WINDOW 


181 


Fig.  67.— Fern  or  Flower  Case. 


The  strongest  growing  ferns  may  be  placed  in  here,  taking  care  to  put  a  few 
crocks  of  broken  brick  or  charcoal  in  the  bottom  of  each  basin  for  drainage. 

They  may  be  used  also  for  spring  flowering  Bulbs,  and  filled  with  hyacinths, 
crocuses,  scillas,  snowdrops,  narcissus  ;  and  then  when  these  are  over,  the  con- 
tents may  be  emptied  and  refilled  again  with  summer  flowering  plants ;  but  it  \a 
usually  best  to  devote  them  to  such  classes  of 
plants  as  will  flower  the  year  round  without 
any  change. 

Figs.  59  to  66  show  the  different  styles  of 
mounting  Fern  cases  with  the  customary  cylin- 
drical glass  shades. 

In  Fig.  43,  we  see  one  of  the  larger  styles  of 
Miss  Maling's  designs,  intended  to  set  upon  a 
table.  This  is  most  charmingly  filled  ;  and 
perhaps  we  cannot  do  better  than  let  Shirley 
Hibberd  himself,  who  filled  it,  tell  us  what  is 
in  it: 

"  It  fell  to  my  lot  to  construct  the  mimic  arch- 
way (a  rockery,)  and  fill  it  with  pockets  for  the 
reception  of  small  ferns.  For  that  purpose  I 
took  two  square  seed  pans,  and  placed  them  bot- 
tom upwards,  on  the  zinc  bottom  of  the  case,  as  abutments,  which,  of  course 
when  the  case  was  filled  with  soil,  were  hidden  from  view.  From  the  flat  foun- 
dation of  clay  thus  provided,  I  began  to  build,  using  small  pieces  of  coke  dipped  in 
a  batter  of  cement,  and  spending  a  few  hours  every  day  for  four  days  in  succession 
upon  the  work  ere  it  was  completed.  In  the 
pockets  were  inserted  specimens  of  Cystopteris 
reyia,  Camptosaurus  rhizophyllus,  Asplenium 
flabellifolium,  Scolopendrium,  vulgare  var 
ramosum,  polyschides,  and  vulgare  ramo  mar 
ginatum,  Adiantum  hispidulum,  and  a  few  Se- 
laginellas.  The  latter  soon  grew  so  as  to 
smother  the  whole  fabric,  forming  a  rich  bell  of 
various  tints  of  blue  and  green,  with  the  fern 
pushing  through  them.  On  the  right  hand  side 
of  the  arch  was  planted  Nephrolepis  exaltata, 
one  of  the  most  suberb  of  Wardian  Case  ferns, 
and  remarkably  distinct,  with  its  graceful  arch- 
ing polypodium-like  fronds. 

On  the  left  hand  Nephrolepis  pectinata,  which  is  of  the  same  habit  of  growth, 
and  a  very  beautiful  and  interesting  fern;  nevertheless,  less  beautiful  than 
the  other,  as  it  is  also  less  vigorous.  A  small  plant  of  Platycerium  grandew&s  then 
planted  in  the  shell  of  a  cocoanut,  and  suspended  by  copper  wire  to  the  crown 
of  the  arch,  and  this  spring  its  new  growth  was  so  vigorous  that  it  had  to  bf 


Fig.  68.— Case  for  preserving  flowers 
fresh. 


182 


WINDOW  GARDENING. 


removed  to  the  greenhouse,  where  it  is  now  flourishing.  Two  more  notable  ferns 
were  introduced,  namely  :  Pteris  flabellata,  var.  crispa,  a  very  erect  and  char- 
acteristic fern  of  large  growth,  quite  cheap  and  common,  and  one  of  the  best  for 
glass  cases,  of  at  least  two  feet  in  height  within.  The  other  was  our  fine  old 
hardy  friend,  Cyrtomium  falcatum,  which  is  worth  a  place  anywhere  among 
ferns,  and  fortunately  it  will  grow  anywhere,  and  is  always  noble. 

The  rest  of  the  plants  consisted  of  various  small,  yet  choice  subjects.  Pteris 
scaberula,  very  beautiful  in  the  lace-like  divisions,  and  light  green  hue  of  its 
fronts.  It  is  really  a  gem,  and  always  grows  well  in  peat,  cocoanut,  or  any 
soil  of  a  light  spongy  texture. 

Doodia  lunulata  and  caudata,  are  of  small  growth,  and  serve  well  with  Loma- 
ria  lanceolata  and  L.  splcant,  to  fill  up  green  tufts  between  ferns — of  very  dis- 
tinct and  striking  appearance.  In  the  centre  of  the  case,  but  on  the  side  oppo- 
site to  the  view  here  given,  and  hence  hidden 
by  the  Platycerium — a  plant  of  Phlebodium 
sporodocarpum — made  a  fine  effect.  It  is  one 
of  the  most  distinct  and  beautiful  and  easily 
managed  of  all  Wardian  Case  ferns,  but  must 
have  always  a  nice  peaty  mixture. 

The  remaining  ferns  are  Polypodium  phego- 
pteris  and  rugulosum,  Campyloneurum  phyl- 
litidis,  Adiantum  formosum,  pedatum  and  tenel- 
lum. 

An  important  point  in  all  fern  cases  is  to  have 
them  so  constructed  as  to  be  easily  turned 
about  and  moved  around,  so  that  the  plants 
may  all  share  equally  in  the  sunlight.  If  the 
case  is  too  large,  many  plants  will  receive  an 
undue  proportion  of  the  sunlight,  while  others 
Pig.  69,-Ladies'  Plant  Case.  will  be  totally  deprived . 

The  Germans,  who  have  a  greater  fondness  and  taste  for  Window  Gardening 
than  any  other  nation,  have  some  very  tasteful  fancies  in  the  way  of  Ferneries 
and  Rockeries  in  the  windows. 

Fig.  44  will  illustrate  one  of  them  projecting  outward  from  the  side  of  the  house. 
The  arch  frame  above  is  also  on  the  outside.  Looking  at  the  rockery  within  rising 
up  out  of  che  aquarium,  we  find  the  following  plants  which  do  well  in  the 
constant  evaporation  of  the  water : 

Adiantum  tenerum,  cuneatum,  formosum ;  Davallia,  pixidata ;  Gymno- 
gramma  Peruviana  ;  Lomaria  spicant ;  onychicumjaponicum  ;  Pteris  serrulata  ; 
Selaginella  calsia  ;  Selaginella,  umbrosa,  Africana  serpens,  and  Wildenovii,  w  ith 
Acorus  gramineus  folius  fol  var  ;  Sibthorpia  Europesa  ;  Panicum  variegatum  ; 
Torrenia  Asiatica  ;  Ficus  stipularis  ;  Tradescantia  zebrina  ;  Hoya  bella,  and 
JEschynanthus  zebrinus 


WINDOW   GARDENING. 


183 


We  mention  the  plants  particularly, 
as  perhaps  some  one  may  be  disposed  to 
copy  the  designs  literally.  We  know  of 
no  form  of  Window  Gardening  so  ex- 
quisite as  this.  A  climbing  vine  may  be 
twined  around  the  outside  of  the  win- 
dow casement.  The  water  in  the  aqua- 
rium must  be  contained  in  a  vessel  with 
glass  sides,  so  that  all  portions  may  be 
discernible  to  the  eye. 

Fig.  45  is  another  of  the  designs  for 
Window  Gardens,  similar  to  those  des- 
cribed in  our  second  chapter.  Now  it 
is  peculiarly  suitable  to  hardy  ferns, 
and  such  native  plants  as  the  Partridge 
vine,  Mosses,  Lycopodiums,  etc. 

Fig.  46  is  known  as  the  Pickard  Plant 
Case ;  but  we  do  not  discover  any  special 
feature  different  from  those  constructed 
by  Miss  Maling.  It  contains  the  same 
metal  box  for  the  soil ;  but  instead  of 
having  the  glass  sides  and  top  stationary, 

all  are  movable,  and   easily  put  up   or  Fig.  70._ wardian  Case, 

taken  down.  The  glass  sides  all  come  in  sheets,  which  fit  each  into  a  light  frame 
of  their  own ;  yet  any  one  of  these  may  be  removed  from  the  other  without  dis- 
turbing tiie  rest.  The  front  can  be  taken  out  in  an  instant  by  lifting,  or  fixed 
back  again  in  its  place  by  a  couple  of  hooks  and  eyes ;  in  short  each  side  has  a 
IVa-ne  of  its  own,  and  when  all  are  shut 
up  together  they  are  held  firmly  by 
hooks  and  eyes  at  top  and  ends.  The 
interior  of  this  case  is  filled  with  Cala- 
diums,  Begonias,  and  other  plants  of 
colored  foliage,  as  well  as  ferns.  It  is 
intended  specially  for  a  case  of  soft 
wooded  plants,  such  as  are  usually 
grown  in  the  pots  of  the  greenhouse. 

A  very  pretty  fern  case  is  that  of 
FJg.  47,  also  in  the  possession  of  Shirley 
Hibberd.  The  base  is  a  stone  vase,  with 
hollow  interior;  the  foot  is  a  frame  of 
wood;  inside  the  vase  is  a  zinc  pan, 
wherein  the  ferns  are  placed,  and  the 
frame  of  glass  fits  over  the  pan  ;  a  couple 


of  doors  furnish  access  to  the  interior 


Fig.  71.- Wardian  <;ase. 


WINDOW  GAHDE1UN  . 

and  open  or  are  closed  by  a  little  button  fastener.  The  size  is  as  follows  :  Height 
of  vase  and  glass,  5  feet  9  inches  ;  width  of  vase,  2  feet ;  height  of  glass  frame,  3 
feet.  In  the  top  of  the  glass  frame  Mr.  Hibberd  suspended  four  half  cocoanut 
shells,  in  which  he  planted  some  ferns  ;  holes  are  cut  in  the  bottom  for  drainage ; 
and  copper  wire  only  used  for  hanging  them.  The  contents  are  thus  described 
by  Mr.  Hibberd  in  his  Floral  World  :  "  This  case  contains  at  the  present  time 
two  pretty  climbing  plants  ;  one  is  the  common  Ivy  of  the  British  woods,  Hedera 
helix  ;  the  other  is  Lygodium  scandens,  an  elegant  climbing  fern.  The  palm- 
like  fern  in  the  centre  is  Nephrolepis  exaltata — the  finest  fern  in  the  world  for  a 
centre  piece;  both  because  of  its  character  and  also  that  it  may  be  cut  without 
spoiling  it,  if  it  happens  to  grow  too  tall.  With  it  are  examples  of  Pteris  cre- 
tica  albo-lineata,  an  elegant  variesrated  fern ;  Niphobolus  lingua — a  hardy  tongue- 
like  fern  ;  Onychium  Japomcum,  most  delicately  divided  ;  Pteris  crenata,  Las- 
treaglabella,Doodiacaudata,Asplenwtnviridef  and  some  bits  of  Selaginellas , 
Anemone  nemorosa,  and  a  few  Mosses. 

The  Ivy  gained  a  footing  quite  by  accident.  This,  with  other  of  our  cases,  is 
frequently  exhibited.  On  one  occasion,  in  preparing  some  cases  for  a  festive 
meeting,  we  introduced  into  this  a  number  of  little  twigs  of  common  Ivy  among 
the  ferns.  The  case  was  left  undisturbed  afterwards,  and  then  on  removing  the 
Ivy  one  of  them  was  found  to  have  rooted.  It  was  allowed  to  remain  and  it 
soon  formed  a  rich  shell  on  one  side  of  the  glass,  without  robbing  a  single  fern  of 
a  ray  of  light.  There  it  remains  to  this  day ;  it  is  now  some  nine  years  old  as  an  in- 
habitant of  this  case,  and  is  as  vigorous  as  ever.  A  few  lengths  of  fine  copper 
wire  serve  to  train  the  Ivy  and  the  lygodium,  which  add  very  much  indeed  to 
the  beauty  of  this  little  garden.  This  case  stands  in  the  window,  and  has  only 
the  warmth  of  an  ordinary  room  in  winter. 

For  a  fern  case  to  stand  in  the  sunshine  all  the  time,  and  with  a  room  of  high 
temperature,  choose  the  following  tender  ferns  :  In  the  centre  place  a  fine  plant 
of  the  Cheilanthes  farinosa  ;  then  add  here  and  there  Anemidictyon,  phyllitidis, 
Olfersia  cervina,  Diplazium  radicans,  Asplenium  fragrans,  Lomaria  attenu- 
ata,  Pteris  calomelavos,  Fadyema  prolifera,  and  a  few  tufts  of  the  Selaginella 
caesium  and  S.  laevigata." 

Among  fern  decorations  nothing  is  so  striking,  and  yet  so  novel,  as  the  fire 
brick.  For  filling  a  vacant  fire  place  and  making  the  screen  appear  ornamental, 
nothing  is  of  better  fitness.  They  are  the  invention  of  a  physician,  Dr.  G. 
Churchill  Watson,  of  Chester,  England,  and  so  constructed  as  to  fit  into  the  sides 
of  walls  of  conservatories,  ferneries  and  greenhouses, 'affording  a  convenient 
method  of  rendering  a  blank  wall  useful  as  well  as  ornamental.  They  are  made 
of  porous  material,  usually  pottery,  and  round  or  oval  shaped,  with  a  concave 
centre,  in  which  may  be  placed  wet  ferns,  mosses  or  Lycopodiums.  They  aro  of 
different  sizes,  from  85  inches  in  diameter  to  14  inches,  and  adapted  to  the  place 
where  they  are  most  needed.  The  largest  can  be  used  to  fit  into  the  niche  of  an 
unused  fire  place,  and  the  smaller  ones  can  be  used  to  fit  the  niches  of  a  fern  col- 
umn or  pillar.  A  fern  pillar  is  one  of  the  curiosities  our  parlor  gardeners  do  not 


WIND 0  W  GARDENING.  \  g  5 

often  behold;  and  yet  a  glance  at  illustration  No.  48,  will  show  how  pleasing  such 
a  decoration  might  be,  and  how  simply  it  could  be  made.  This  design  is  con- 
structed of  wood,  in  the  form  of  a  hexagonal  pillar,  with  vase  at  the  top. 

At  various  places  in  each  side  are  little  niches  or  openings,  into  which  are  in- 
troduced the  fern  shells;  these  are  filled  with  earth,  usually  holding  a  pint  to  a 
quart,  and  the  fern  grows  gracefully  outward.  This  pillar  holds  19  vessels,  and 
affords  a  rare  opportunity  of  cultivating  quite  a  variety.  If  the  centre  of  the 
pillar  is  hollow  it  must  be  filled  up  by  hand  with  some  earthy  material,  and 
either  moss  or  cocoanut  fibre  or  dust  maybe  pressed  firmly.  The  soil  for  the 
bricks  should  be  peat  two  parts;  loam  or  woods  mould  one  part,  silver  sand  one 
part. 

An  English  lady,  filling  such  a  case,  once  adopted  this  selection  of  plants.  As 
mentioned  in  the  Gardener's  Magazine,  "  In  the  vase  at  the  top  were  some  plants 
of  the  A splenium  flabelli folium,  one  of  the  most  elegant  of  ali  the  small  trailing 
ferns.  To  help  out  the  effect  of  this,  a  tuft  of  the  pretty  rush  Isolepis  gracilis 
is  introduced.  This  falls  over  in  most  graceful  glass-like  outlines,  and  as  it  loves 
moisture  it  is  quite  at  home  under  a  bell  glass.  In  the  shells  at  the  sides  of  the 
column  are  specimens  of  Adiantum  eapillus  veneris,  A.  hispidulums,  and  A. 
cuneatum,  the  last  of  which  may  grow  too  large;  if  so,  it  should  be  removed. 
One  of  the  most  suitable  of  all  ferns  is  Woodsia  Ilvensis,  which  grows  marvel- 
ously,  and  seems  to Jae  at  home  in  the  porous  ware  of  the  vessel.  Other  good 
ferns  are  Aspknium  fontanum,  A.  rutamuraria,  Doodia  lunulata,  Doodia  cau- 
data,  Woodsia  obtusa,  Cystopterisfr  agile  Dickeana,  CamptozauruSyrhizophyllus, 
(one  of  the  rarest  of  the  exotic  Hearts  Tongue  ferns,)  Scolopendrium  vulgare, 
v.  proliferum  vamo  marginatum,  and  v.  polyschides,  Lastrea  filix-mas  v .  Schoficl- 
dii,  Adiantum  setulosum,  Hymenophyllum  Wilsoni,  Athyrium  f.f.  diffissum. 

These  are  the  cheapest  of  all  designs  for  the  window.  Fig.  59  and  60  being 
obtainable  at  almost  any  glass  store,  at  prices  of  $2.00  to  $5.00  complete.  Figs. 
61  and  62,  are  in  a  basket  vase.  Figs.  63  and  64  are  with  pottery  ware  or  lava 
boxes,  resting  upon  stands.  Fig.  65,  is  made  of  rustic  wood  and  has  a  wooden 
bowl,  upon  which  the  glass  cylinder  rests.  Fig.  66  is  an  iron  stand,  with  a  plain 
earthen  bowl  beneath  the  fernery,  the  outside  of  which  is  decorated  with  a  net- 
work of  wire. 

Among  the  various  designs  of  Wardian  Cases,  for  the  drawing-room  or  saloon, 
there  are  often  met  a  few  of  much  simpler  material,  which  can  be  used  for  other 
purposes.  Figs.  67  and  68  are  so  constructed  that  they  can  be  used  at  one  time 
for  growing  ferns  within,  or  they  can  be  used  merely  for  holding  cut  flowers  in 
moist  sand  or  water.  In  Fig.  68,  the  top  is  movable,  fitting  into  a  brass  groove, 
and  must  be  lifted  entirely  off  the  table  when  the  plants  are  to  be  placed  inside 
or  need  any  attention.  All  the  ornamental  work  around  the  edges  of  the  stand, 
and  the  frame  work  for  holding  the  glass  plates,  is  made  of  brass ;  the  stand 
itself  is  of  wood.  The  size  of  the  interior  is  about  18  inches  in  diameter, by  12 
inches  high. 


186  WINDOW   GARDENING. 

Fig.  67  is  much  more  symmetrical  in  shape,  and  easily  made.  The  frame  of  this, 
too,  is  made  mostly  of  polished  brass,  and  the  glass  sets  down  upon  a  groove 
made  in  the  top  of  the  stand,  which  is  of  wood.  The  interior  is  hollow,  with  a 
zinc  basin  for  holding  plants. 

Fig.  69  is  a  Lady's  Plant  Case,  a  kind  of  Wardian  case  in  miniature;  and  though 
not  affording  very  spacious  accommodations  inside,  still  there  is  a  good  deal  of 
novelty  in  its  construction,  sufficient  to  render  it  a  very  interesting  object  for 
either  the  drawing  room  or  library. 

A  bell  glass,  or  shade,  fits  closely  at  its  base  into  a  groove  running  all  around 
the  edge  of  a  stand  constructed  usually  of  wood. 

The  plants  inside  are  in  small  pots  not  over  four  inches  in  diameter,  although 
the  proportions  of  the  case  may  be  enlarged  from  18  inches  in  diameter  up  to  3 
feet,  and  afford  greater  room.  Any  manufacturer  of  glass  shades  could  make 
such  a  shade  in  a  special  mould,  and  any  cabinet  maker  could  fashion  a  tasteful 
table  or  stand  beneath. 

Kiss.  71,  72  are  sketches  of  two  very  pretty  Wardian  Cases,  exhibited  at 
one  of  the  Horticultural  Society  Exhibitions,  and  was  much  admired.  They  ad- 
mit of  considerably  greater  outline  than  the  previous  designs  of  Ferneries,  and 
are  more  ornamental.  Fig.  70  is  7  feet  high,  4  feet  2  inches  wide,  and  2  feet  6 
incites  in  breadth. 

Fig.  71  is  4  feet  high,  3  feet  broad,  and  1  foot  11  inches  wide.  These  are  con- 
structed mostly  with  bright  metallic  frame  work;  the  best  quality  of  sheet  glass 
is  used;  castors  are  fitted  to  the  base,  and  at  the  back  there  is  a  little  door  to 
allow  the  entrance  of  the  hand  for  watering  the  plants  or  removing  dead  leaves. 

Such  designs  as  these,  made  to  cover  an  entire  collection  of  plants,  should  be 
pern-rally  adopted,  a  ul  (.heir  manufacture  encouraged.  They  do  away  altogether 
with  the  daily  task  of  watering,  they  are  absolutely  free  from  dust,  and  the 
plants  have  a  perpetual  moisture  inside,  which  affords  not  only  the  most  desirable 
and  uniform  temperature,  but  conduces  to  health  of  habit,  and  freedom  from  in- 
sects. Our  Window  Gardeners  must  learn  by  practical  experience  that  there  is 
but  one  practical  solution  to  the  difficulties  of  Window  Gardening,  "  The  plants 
must  lice  in  an  atmosphere  to  themselves,  shut  out  alike  from  the  air  of  the 
room,  and  from  the  outer  air.'" 

In  apartments  lighted  with  gas,  the  use  of  these  glass  covers  or  shades  is  again 
made  obvious,  for  no  gas  fumes  will  ever  touch  them. 

An  opinion  is  general  among  amateurs,  that  these  Wardian  Cases  must  be 
perfectly  air  tight.  This  is  not  quite  true ;  although  they  are  fitted  pretty  close, 
yet  they  are  not  absolutely  air  tight.  Indeed  it  is  sometimes  quite  desirable  that 
the  case  should  be  lifted  a  little  to  permit  a  free  circulation  of  the  air  betwixt 
the  interior  and  the  exterior,  especially  if  there  is  a  surplus  of  moisture  inside, 
and  condenses  so  constantly  upon  the  glass  that  the  plant  cannot  be  seen. 

A  fact  may  often  have  been  observed  by  flower  lovers,  that  when  two  flowers  are 
plucked,  the  one  stuck  with  its  stem  into  a  bottle  or  vase  of  water,  and  the  other 
thrown  down  into  a  wide  basin  of  water,  so  the  petals  as  well  as  stem  are  in  the 


WINDOW  GARDENING. 


187 


water,  it  will  be  found  that  the  latter  will  keep  fresh  and  sweet  the  longest.  The 
explanation  is  only  in  the  greater  humidity.  In  the  former  case,  the  air  of  the 
room  being  too  dry,  evaporates  the  water  from  the  surface  of  the  petals  faster 
than  the  stem  can  supply,  while  in  the  latter  the  flower  is  completely  surrounded 
with  all  it  needs. 

Observing  this  principle  then  in  your  cut  flowers  or  bouquets,  if  you  will  take 
care  to  place  them  in  pans  of  water,  or  sand  and  water,  and  then  cover  with  bell 
glasses,  they  will  have  a  humid  atmosphere  entirely  to  themselves,  retain  their 
freshness  for  double  the  length  of  time,  as  they  would  if  exposed  to  the  dry  air 
of  the  sitting-room. 

The  Wardian  Case  then,  in  principle,  is  not  only  the  most  practical  in  opera- 
tion, but  beneficial  in  results. 

List  of  Ferns. 

For  a  Wardian  Case  kept  in  a  room  with  a  high  temperature,  use  : 
Adiantum  *cuneatum,  tenerum,   *for-     Flemionites  *palmata. 

mosum,   trapeziforme,   Veitchii,  ru- 

bellum,  concirmum,  Farleyense. 
Anemia  *hirta,  flexuosa,  villosa. 
*Asp1enium  viviparum. 
Blechnum  *brasiliense,  Corcovadense. 
Cheilanthes  Alabamensis,  Borsigiana, 

hirta,  microphyila,  puiveracea,  spec- 

tabilis. 
Davallia  *decora,  *Mooreana,  *polyan- 

tha. 

Didymochlaena  lunulata. 
Doryopteris  nobilis,  *pedata. 
Gymnogramma     *tartarea,     *chryso- 

phylla,  Laurheana,  Peruviana. 


Microlepia  Davellia,  hirsuta-angusta, 
Nephrolepis  *exaltata,  *pectinata. 
Nothoclaena  chrysophylla,  *nivea,  ten- 
era. 

Polypodium  aureum,  omyxifolium. 
Pteris  *  falcata,  tricolor. 

Seiaginelia. 

Selaginella  caesia  arborea,  *Africana, 
atrovirens,  caulescens,  *conferta,  Ly- 
allii,  *umbrosa  (erythropus),  Kas- 
leniana,  *serpens,  *imbricaulis,  Wal- 
lichii,  Warcswewitzii. 


The  above  Ferns  and  Selaginellas  are  also  suitable  for  general  decorations  in 
a  well  heated  room.  Such  marked  *  are  useful  for  the  window  without  glass 
covering. 

2.  For  a  Wardian  Case  in  a  moderately  heated  room : 


Acrostichum  #alcicorne  (Platicerium.) 
Adiantum   affine,   *capillus     Veneris, 

assimile,  *colpodes,  *formosum,  *ru- 

bellnm,  reniforme. 
Asplenium  *palmatnm,  Fabianum 
Blechnum  *australe,  Cyathea  medul- 

laris,  australis. 
Cyrtomium  *falcatum. 
Davallia  *canariensis,  *pixidata. 
Dicksonia  *antarctica. 


Lygodium  scandens,  palmatum. 

Asplenium  nidus,  avis. 

Aspidium  *molle,  *violascens,  *Kaul- 

fussie. 

Nephrolepis  *exaltata,  *tuberosa. 
Nothoclaena  trichomanoides. 
Oleandra  *neriifolia. 
Onychium  *japonicum. 
Pteris  *arguta,  argyraea,  *cretica  alba, 

*serrulata  *  falcata,  longifolia. 


188 


WINDOW  GARDENING. 


Doodia  aspera,  caudata,  *rupestris.          Woodwardia  radicans 
Doryopteris  *palmata.  Selaginella  apoda,  *caesia,  *denticula- 

Drynaria  coronans.  ta,  stolonifera,    formosa,  involvens, 

Lastraea  glabella.  Sohottii,  *Martensii  albo  var,  *Wil- 

Lomaria  *gibba.  denowii 

The  above  named  Ferns  and  Lycopodias  are  also  suitable  for  general  decors;- 
tions  in  a  moderately  heated  room.     Those  marked  *  are  useful  for  the  window. 

3.  For  a  cold  room,  open  hall,  veranda,  rock  work,  or  for  cool  shaded  places 
near  the  building : 
AcTiantum  pedatum. 
Allosorus  crispus. 
Aspidium  goldianum. 
Asplenium    septentrionale,   fontanum, 
trichomanes,    ruta-muraria,  viride. 
Aathyrium  felix  foemina,  gracile,  mul- 


ticeps. 

Biechnum  boreale,  occidentale. 
Ceterach  officinarum. 
Cystopteris  montana. 
Lastraea  oreopteris,  dilatata,  filix-mas, 

rigiaa. 

The  above  named  Ferns  and  Lycopodia  are  also  suitable  for  window  decora- 
tion during  the  summer  season,  but  require  some  shade. 


Onoclea  sensibilis. 
Osmunda   regalis,  cinnamomea. 
Poly  podium  vulgare. 
Polystichium  angulare,    lonchitis, 
Scolopendrium  officinarum  and  varie- 
ties. 

Struthiopteris  germanica. 
Pteris  aquilina. 
Woodsia  hyperborea,  ilvensis. 
Lycopodium  clavatum,  alpinum,  selago, 
dendroideum. 


CHLAJPTER 

THE  CAMELLIA. 

The  Camellia,  when  cultivated  in  window  gardens,  requires  great  care  on 
account  of  the  tendency  of  its  flower-buds  to  drop  off. 

Too  much  or  too  little  water,  and  great  variations  of  temperature  when  the 
buds  are  swelling,  cause  this  trouble  ;  yet  with  care  it  can  be  flowered  in  profu- 
sion without  any  artificial  heat.  A  northern  or  northeastern  exposure  is  the 
most  desirable,  and  a  temperature  from  40°  to  50°,  better  humid  than  without, 
the  most  advisable. 

When  the  plant  has  flowered,  if  it  is  a  young,  small  sized  plant,  it  should  be 
shifted  into  a  pot  one  size  larger;  but  if  an  old,  large  plant,  it  need  not  be  repot- 
ted oftener  than  once  in  two  years.  The  soil  should  be  composed  of  equal  parts 
of  black  peat  and  rich  loam,  but  if  the  peat  is  not  within  reach,  sandy  loam, 
enriched  with  one-third  leaf  mould,  will  make  the  plant  flower  well. 

After  potting,  the  plant  can  be  placed  in  the  window  of  a  room  where  a  fire  is 
kept,  but  it  does  not  require  much  sunshine.  (In  its  native  woods  it  grows  in 
moist,  shady  places.)  While  new  leaves  and  buds  are  forming,  water  should  be 
given  every  day,  and  the  leaves  and  branches  frequently  sponged  or  showered,  as 
the  dust  will  adhere  to  the  leaves.  The  plant  requires  light,  but  does  not  need 
the  direct  rays  of  the  sun. 

In  the  spring,  when  it  has  ceased  growing,  it  can  be  placed  out  of  doors  in  a 
shady  situation,  yet  not  under  the  dripping  of  trees  or  shrubs,  and  where  it  will 
be  exposed  only  to  the  morning's  sun.  Early  in  September  it  must  be  brought 
in  doors,  for  it  would  lose  all  its  flower-buds  should  the  frost  touch  it.  If  the 
plant  is  in  good  health,  it  will  now  be  filled  with  buds.  One  hour's  drought,  or 
a  soaking  wet  soil,  will  bring  down  the  buds  and  destroy  all  hopes  of  flowers. 
The  air  should  be  too  cold  for  a  person  to  sit  comfortably  in  the  room,  until  the 
flower-buds  open ;  then  the  plant  can  be  brought  into  the  parlor.  When  tho 
mercury  marks  40°  or  45°,  a  couple  of  hours  of  fresh  air  will  be  useful  to  the 
Camellia,  but  do  not  place  it  in  the  fullest  sunshine. 

When  the  buds  swell  for  flowering,  a  little  more  water  is  needed  ;  give  it  in 
plentiful  doses,  turning  away  all  that  runs  out  into  the  saucers.  Apply  the  water 
directly  to  the  soil,  for  the  flowers  are  injured  by  sprinkling;  never  shower  the 
foliage  when  the  sun  shines  upon  it,  lest  the  leaves  should  be  blistered  or 
spotted.  After  the  plants  have  flowered,  and  fully  repaid  you  for  all  your  atten- 
tion, observe  the  same  routine  of  culture  again. 


190  WINDOW  GARDENING 

In  the  Southern  States  and  in  California  Camellias  grow  into  large  shrubs  Of 
trees*,  and  need  no  protection  in  the  winter  They  are  propagated  from  seeds, 
cuttings,  grafting,  and  in  arching. 

The  seeds  are  a  long  time  in  vegetating;  sometimes  two  years  will  elapse  before 
the  first  leaf  is  developed,  and  then  the  blossom  may  not  repay  the  care  it  has 
demanded  ;  but  a  graft  from  a  handsome  variety  will  make  a  fine  plant. 

The  cutting  should  be  taken  from  the  base  of  a  leaf,  or  at  a  joint,  as  soon  as 
the  wood  is  ripened,  and  placed  in  damp  sand  under  glass.  When  it  shows  signs 
of  growth,  transplant  it  to  a  small  pot  filled  with  rich,  dark  soil.  If  you  desire 
large  flowers,  allow  only  one  bud  to  remain  on  each  terminal  shoot.  The  best 
time  to  graft  the  Camellia  is  from  the  middle  of  August  to  the  middle  of  Sep- 
tember. The  chief  care  is  in  making  a  perfect  junction  of  the  parts,  and  care- 
fully tying  the  graft  in  place.  T^he  graft  having  nothing  to  support  it,  must  not 
only  be  firmly  secured  to  the  branch,  but  moisture  and  shade  must  be  given  it  so 
as  to  promote  its  growth,  and  the  roots  must  not  be  soddened  with  water. 

Inarching,  or  grafting  by  approach,  is  generally  done  in  July.  A  thin  portion 
of  the  stock  is  sliced  off,  and  a  corresponding  portion  of  the  variety  to  be 
inarched.  The  slice  should  be  made  so  deep  that  it  will  take  oft  a  slit  of  the 
stock,  with  bark  attached,  for  about  two  inches ;  the  graft  is  cut  to  fit  exactly, 
and  the  parts  fastened  closely  together  and  wound  about  with  zephyr  wool ; 
moss  can  then  be  tied  over  it  to  keep  it  damp,  and  this  must  be  moistened  as  it 
dries  until  they  have  grown  together. 

Camellias  are  most  extensively  grown  in  Philadelphia,  New  York,  and  Boston, 
by  the  florists,  and  are  highly  prized  for  house  and  table  decorations,  wedding 
ornaments,  and  funeral  wreaths,  crosses,  and  anchors. 

The  Double  White,  Fimbriata,  candidissima,  Mont  Blanc,  and  alba  plena 
are  all  very  desirable  for  window  culture,  and  if  their  pure,  spotless  white  flow- 
ers are  protected  from  the  sun  they  will  retain  their  exquisite  beauty  for  a  fort- 
night. Among  the  colored  varieties  are : 

Imbricata,  crimson  and  white. 

Landrethii,  the  richest  rose  color. 

Dutchess  of  Orleans,  striped  pink  and  white. 

Juliana,  a  rosy  blush  color. 

Benneyii,  crimson,  striped  with  white. 

Conspersa,  striped  carmine. 

Prince  Albert,  pink,  striped  with  rosy  carmine. 

Heine  des  Fleurs,  of  the  richest  crimson. 

Sacco  Nora,  exquisite  pink,  blotched  with  rose. 

Jubilee,  rosy  pink,  striped  with  cherry  color. 

Storyi,  a  waxen  rose  color. 

History,  c#c. — A  sketch  of  the  history  of  this  flower  calls  up  some  very  inte- 
resting facts.  The  Camellia  Japonica  was  introduced  into  Europe  by  Father 
Kamel,  a  Moravian  missionary  who  traveled  in  Asia,  and  saw  the  beautiful  tree 
growing  in  China ;  and  the  plant  was  Latinized  into  Camellus  in  honor  of  him 


WINDOW  GARDENING.  •       ]Q] 

Although  brought  from  China,  it  is  a  native  of  Japan,  whence  its  name  Ja- 
ponica,  and  belongs  to  the  genus  of  the  Tea  Plant,  the  Bohea  and  mridis, 
which  supply  the  well-known  black  and  green  teas  of  commerce. 

The  first  plants  were  brought  to  England  in  1739,  but  they  died  from  being 
treated  as  stove  plants;  yet  the  idea  of  them  was  given,  and  it  only  required 
time  and  perseverance  to  make  them  what  they  now  are — the  ornament  of  every 
greenhouse,  conservatory,  and  window  garden. 

The  commencement  of  the  general  culture  of  the  Camellia  began  in  1792, 
when  the  single  red  variety  was  again  imported  from  China.  The  double  white 
and  the  variegated  red  were  the  next  kinds  introduced,  and  they  were  followed 
by  the  Waratah,  or  Anemone  flowered,  and  the  fringed  white,  the  pale  black, 
and  the  striped  and  variegated.  The  single  white  was  not  introduced  until 
1818.  Mr.  Fortune,  who  has  traveled  extensively  in  both  China  and  Japan, 
and  added  many  valuable  plants  to  our  collections,  met  with  specimens  of 
Camellias  growing  wild  in  the  woods  of  Poo-to-san,  some  of  M'hich  were  tall 
trees,  being  from  25  to  30  feet  high.  Their  glossy,  evergreen  foliage,  and  mag- 
nificent blossoms — red,  white,  buff,  yellow,  crimson,  variegated,  and  blotched — 
render  them  one  of  the  most  beautiful  features  in  an  Oriental  landscape.  The 
trees  are  so  plentiful  in  Japan  and  China  that  the  seeds  are  used  in  cookery  and 
medicine,  and  from  one  species  an  oil  for  anointing  the  hair  is  extracted. 

Camellia  maliflora,or  the  apple-flowered  Camellia,  has  beautiful  little  flowers 
resembling  the  apple  blossoms  in  color  and  form,  but  are  double.  This  species  is 
more  tender  than  the  common  kind.  It  was  not  introduced  into  England  until 
1816. 

Camellia  Sasanqua  is  still  more  tender,  and  has  a  small,  single  flower,  like  that 
of  the  green  tea  plant.  It  is  more  densely  allied  to  that  species,  and  its  leaves 
are  used  for  tea.  The  hybrids  which  have  been  produced  from  the  Camellia 
Japonica  are  very  numerous}  and  every  year  some  new  varieties  are  added  to  the 
catalogue*. 


XVT. 


THE  ROSE. 


The  romance  of  the  Rose,  and  its  exquisite  loveliness,  will  never  permit  it  to  oe 
.eft  oat  of  the  window  garden,  notwithstanding  the  occasional  trouble  and  diffi- 
culties of  its  culture. 

THE  ROSE  IN  ROMANCE. 

Sappho  says  of  it  in  one  of  her  poetic  strains  :  "  If  Zeus  had  willed  to  set  a 
King  over  flowers,  the  Rose  would  have  claimed  that  distinction.  It  is  the  orna- 
ment of  the  earth,  the  glory  of  the  plants,  the  eye  of  the  flowers,  and  the  blush 
of  the  meadow. 

Luther,  in  his  admiration  of  it,  says:  "If  a  man  could  make  a  single  Rose 
we  should  give  him  an  Empire  "  —  and  he  chose  the  Rose  for  the  emblem  on  his 
seal. 

In  Germany  there  are  various  superstitions  concerning  the  Rose,  many  of 
which  are  very  singular,  and  the  relation  of  the  flower  to  blood  is  widely 
credited. 

Thus  one  hears  in  France  and  Italy  as  well  as  Germany  the  saying  that  a 
drop  of  one's  blood  buried  under  a  rosebush  will  bring  rosy  cheeks.  There  is  a 
legend  that  the  thorn  crown  of  Christ  was  made  from  rose  briar,  and  that  the 
drops  of  blood  which  issued  from  His  head  fell  to  the  ground  and  blossomed  in 
Roses. 

Mrs.  Howe  alludes  to  it  in  these  lines  : 

"Men  saw  the  thorns  on  Jesus'  brow, 
But  angels  saw  the  Roses." 

In  Ancient  Greece  there  was  an  Academy  whose  statutes  were  couched  in 
these  words  :  "  The  Academicians  think  much,  write  little,  and  talk  less." 

A  famous  Professor  desired  to  become  a  member,  and  when  a  vacancy  occurred 
hastened  to  obtain  it,  but  arrived  too  late  —  a  candidate  had  been  chosen.  The 
Academy  desired  to  number  Dr.  Zeb  upon  its  rolls,  but  it  had  just  granted  to 
power  what  belonged  to  merit. 

The  President,  not  desiring  to  give  a  refusal  in  words,  desired  a  cup  of  water 
to  be  brought,  which  he  filled  with  water  so  that  even  one  drop  more  would 
cause  it  to  overflow.  The  doctor  understood  the  emblem,  but  he  saw  at  his  feet 
a  rose-leaf,  which  he  placed  upon  the  top  of  the  water  without  displacing  a  drop. 

His  ingenuity  procured  him  the  desired  admission,  and  he  was  received  by 
acclamation  as  a  member  of  the  Silent  Academy. 


WINDOW   GARDENING. 

The  phrase  "  sub-rosa,"  implying  secresy,  is  said  to  have  originated  during 
the  wars  of  York  and  Lancaster,  when  the  red  and  white  Roses  played 
so  prominent  a  part ;  but  in  ancient  days  it  was  the  custom  to  suspend  a  Rose 
over  the  heads  of  the  guests  at  banquets  and  feasts,  to  signify  that  the  conserva- 
tive was  not  to  be  repeated. 

In  mythology  the  Rose  was  dedicated  to  Ilarpocrates,  the  God  of  Silence. 

When  the  Roman  pontiff  desired  to  confer  a  particular  distinction  upon  a 
crowned  head,  he  presented  a  consecrated  Golden  Rose.  Both  Henry  VI  and 
Henry  VIII,  of  England,  were  honored  in  this  manner. 

Culture. 

The  list  of  varieties  of  Roses  is  very  extended,  reaching  over  600  or  1,000. 
As  many  as  GOO  have  been  known  to  bloom  in  a  single  garden  in  this  country, 
and  in  some  nurseries  100,000  have  been  under  propagation  at  one  time. 

The  various  sub-families  of  the  Rose  are  numerous,  yet  for  window  gardening 
we  need  only  to  use  the  ever-blooming  or  monthly  species,  Tea,  China,  and 
Bourbon.  Of  these  the  Tea  and  China  are  the  best  adapted  to  winter  flowering. 
They  delight  in  a  very  rich  soil,  composed  of  decomposed  sods  and  manure  ; 
cow  manure  is  the  best  of  all  others  for  Roses,  but  it  must  be  so  decayed  that  it 
will  crumble  easily  in  the  hand.  They  will  grow  in  almost  any  soil,  yet  no 
plant  requires  a  richer  compost  or  better  repays  the  cultivator  for  preparing  it. 

If  the  compost  is  heavy  add  enough  sand  to  make  it  a  little  friable,  but  it  pre- 
fers a  rather  stiff  soil.  When  it  is  in  rapid  growth  it  requires  a  good  supply  of 
water,  but  not  enough  to  make  the  soil  too  damp.  When  in  a  dormant  state  it 
needs  but  very  little. 

Roses  that  are  transplanted  from  the  garden  require  a  time  of  rest,  and  it  is 
much  better  after  potting  them  to  put  them  in  a  dark  cellar  where  they  can 
remain  until  February;  then  bring  them  up,  prune  away  the  old  wood,  and  give 
them  all  the  sunshine  you  can,  for  they  require  plenty  of  it  to  bloom  in  perfec- 
tion. Amateurs  fail  in  not  pruning  sufficiently ;  all  the  finest  flowers  are  pro- 
duced upon  new  shoots  ;  so  be  sure  to  cut  back  the  long,  scraggy  branches 
within  three  or  four  eyes  of  the  main  stem.  There  is  no  plant  which  requires 
such  close  pruning.  Very  few  flowers  are  found  upon  the  old  wood,  but  are 
produced  on  the  new,  fresh  shoots,  and  the  branches  sent  up  from  the  roots. 

Roses  are  propagated  by  seeds,  cuttings,  layers,  budding,  and  grafting.  The 
process  of  growing  them  from  seed  is  too  slow  for  amateurs  to  care  to  attempt 
it,  as  the  plants  will  not  bloom  for  six  or  seven  years. 

Cuttings  are  the  easiest  means  of  cultivation,  and  fine  bushes  can  be  raised 
from  them.  The  manner  of  growing  them  js  described  in  Part  I,  the  chapier 
on  Propagation,  and  little  can  be  added  to  it.  They  will  strike  much  more  cer- 
tainly under  glass  and  with  bottom  heat,  but  in  May  and  June  they  car.  be  grown 
in  sand  with  but  little  attention. 

Layers  are  made  by  "  tongueing  "  a  branch,  and  bending  it  caref  .'ly  down  to 

13 


194  WINDOW  GARDENING. 

the  soil,  pressing  the  cut  firmly  into  the  ground,  and  twisting  it  a  little,  so  that 
the  end  of  the  tongue  may  have  a  downward  tendency  in  the  ground.  May, 
June,  and  July  are  the  best  months  for  layering,  and  by  November  they  can  be 
cut  off  from  the  parent  plants  within  two  inches  of  the  tongue,  and  potted  in 
small  pots  for  the  winter. 

The  Chinese  mode  of  layering  differs  a  little  from  ours.  They  select  in  July 
a  strong  shoot  of  the  same  year's  growth,  tongue  it  as  described,  cutting  it  just 
below  a  bud  or  joint,  and  put  in  a  little  pebble  to  keep  the  slit  open.  Then 
bind  a  ball  of  green  moss  around  the  tongue ;  keep  the  moss  constantly  moist, 
and  roots  will  speedily  shoot  into  it,  and  by  six  or  seven  weeks  the  layer  will  be 
ready  to  cut  off;  it  should  then  be  planted  in  rich  soil,  without  disturbing  the 
moss,  and  it  can  be  sent,  as  a  present  to  a  friend,  to  any  part  of  the  country. 

There  is  a  diversity  of  opinion  regarding  the  best  time  for  pruning  Roses,  but 
M.  Paul,  the  celebrated  English  Rose-grower,  says : 

"A  Rose  in  vigorous  condition,  healthy  and  full  of  sap,  requires  less  pruning 
than  when  it  is  of  moderate  or  weak  growth.  The  same  degree  of  pruning, 
applied  to  each  condition  would  produce  opposite  results.  Close  pruning  would 
be  the  means  of  improving  the  health  and  flowering  of  a  weak  plant,  while  it 
would  induce  a  strong  one  to  form  wood  shoots  rather  than  buds." 

But  it  is  a  good  rule  to  thin  out  the  weak,  unhealthy  shoots,  and  even  some 
of  the  stronger  ones,  as  soon  as  the  plant  has  done  flowering.  This  allows  it  to 
make  fresh  roots,  and  then  will  follow  new  shoots  and  fresh  buds. 

When  the  plants  are  out  of  flower  remove  the  soil  to  the  depth  of  an  inch,  if 
you  can  do  so  without  injuring  the  roots,  and  fill  up  with  the  richest  soil  you 
can  procure.  This  treatment  will  cause  a  fresh,  vigorous  growth,  and  insure 
many  buds  to  come.  The  decayed  flowers  should  be  at  once  removed,  and  the 
stems  cut  back. 

Nothing  but  patient  hand-picking  and  weekly  showerings  will  keep  away  the 
green  fly.  In  the  Chapter  of  Part  I,  which  treats  upon  "  Insects,"  antidotes  are 
given  for  all  insects. 

No  plant  thrives  better  under  applications  of  liquid  manure,  but  care  must  be 
taken  not  to  give  it  so  strong  as  to  make  all  the  leaves  fall.  A  decoction  of  soot 
is  also  good  for  it.  Dissolve  a  tablespoonful  of  it  in  two  quarts  of  warm  water, 
and  apply  to  the  roots  once  a  week,  and  the  growth  of  your  plants  will  surprise 
you. 

The  Tea  and  China  Roses  are  large  shrubs  in  their  native  climes,  and  bloom 
profusely;  but  our  northern  seasons  do  not  allow  them  to  grow  so  rapidly,  yet 
they  fill  our  hearts  with  much  pleasure.  The  buds  of  these  varieties  are  much 
handsomer  than  the  expanded  flowers,  which  are  open  in  the  centre,  and  fre- 
quently show  the  stamens,  while  the  Hybrid  Perpetuals  are  very  double. 

For  winter  flowering  the  following  list  embraces  some  of  the  best  varieties : 

TEA. 
Aurora,  rich  yellow,  shaded  to  rose 


WINDOW   GARDENING.  195 

Adam,  deep  rose,  very  sweet,  shaded  to  salmon  color;  very  large  and  full. 
Bon  Silene,  a  blending  of  purple  and  carmine. 
Devoniensis,  blush  white;  magnolia  fragrance. 
Clara  Sylvain,  snowy  white  ;  very  extra. 
Isabella  Sprunt,  a  bright  canary  yellow. 

La  Pactole,  light  buff;  the  most  abundant  bloomer  of  any  known. 
Madame  Maurin,  purest  white. 
Pauline  Lobante,  light  cream  color. 

Marechal  Niel,  the  best  yellow  Tea  Rose  in  cultivation;  its  perfume  is  une 
qualed,  and  its  buds  are  peifection. 

BENGAL,  OR  CHINA. 

Agrippina,  the  deepest  crimson,  with  an  occasional  stripe  of  white  in  thfi 
centre. 

Bourbon  Queen,  rich  blush ;  very  fine. 
Count  de  Rohan,  purplish  red. 
Louis  Philippe,  rich,  rosy  crimson. 
Madame  Morel,  cream  color;  centre  pink. 
Napoleon,  blush  ;  very  large. 
Virginale,  rose  and  crimson 
Vesuvius,  deepest  crimson. 
Madame  Eohan,  pure  white. 

BOURBON. 

Bouquet  de  Flore,  deepest  carmine ;  very  fragrant. 
Crimson  Globe,  purplish  crimson. 
Edward  Desfosses,  brightest  rose. 
Glory  of  Algiers,  bright  crimson. 
Henri  Plantier,  deep  pink;  perfect  form. 

Hermosa,  rosy  pink  flowers ;  a  profuse  bloomer,  and  general  favorite. 
Leveson  Gower,  salmon  rose ;  very  double  and  fine. 
Phoenix,  deepest  rose,  with  the  fragrance  of  the  old  fashioned  Damask 
Psyche,  light  rose ;  very  double. 
Splendens,  richest  of  crimson. 
Souvenir  dela  Malmaison,  flesh  color  ;  splendid.    - 
Sombrienil,  blush  white ;  strong  grower ;  very  fine. 
Vicomte  de  Cassy,  cherry  red ;  extra 
Vulcan,  dark  shade  of  carmine. 

NOISETTE.  '' 

Aimee  Vibert,  one  of  the  best  white  roses  under  cultivation 
Chrnmatella,  deepest  yellow  ;  very  delicate. 
Ghire  de  Dijon,  blush  white;  buff  centre. 
Lamarque,  white  ;  yellowish  centre ;  very  fine. 
Minette,  light  crimson ;  very  double,  and  large  clusters  of  flowers. 


196  wry  DOW  GARDENING. 

Ophirie,  salmon,  shaded  to  orange  color. 
Susanna,  yellowish  white ;  very  fine. 
Souvenir  d'  Anselem,  deep  carmine. 
Sir  Walter  Scott,  dark  purple. 
Solfaterre,  deep  straw  color  ;  extra  fine. 
Washington,  pure  white ;  semi-double  ;  full  clusters. 
Triumphant,  double  rose  ;  very  large. 
Wells'  Pink,  carmine  rose  ;  full  clusters. 
Zobeide,  crimson,  and  purple  shaded. 

For  City  Gardens, 

Choose  those  varieties  that  are  strongest  growers  and  freest  bloomers. 

Of  crimson  varieties,  the  best  recommended  are  Agrippina,  Gen.  Washington, 
and  Giant  of  Battles. 

Of  Pink — Formosa  and  Eugenie. 
Yellow — Safrano,  Mine.  Falcot. 
"White — Mme.  Maurin,  Sombriel. 
Carmine — La  Phenix,  C.  Bobeistsky. 
Straw  color — La  Pactola,  Isabella  Sprunt. 
Blush — Pauline,  Fleur  de  Cymes. 

Climbing  Roses  are  our  favorite  plant  for  adorning  piazzas,  balconies,  pillars, 
and  the  outer  decorations  of  the  window.  The  usual  varieties  are  Baltimore 
Belle,  Prairie  Queen,  Fulgens,  and  Gem  of  the  Prairies. 

A  fact  worth  noticing  in  the  window  culture  of  plants,  is  that  the  delicate 
varieties  of  China  and  Tea  need  a  light  soil.  Mr.  Parkman  recommends  a  mix- 
ture of  loam,  manure,  leaf  mould,  and  sand,  in  the  proportion  of  two  bushels  of 
.oam  to  one  bushel  of  manure,  one  of  leaf  mould,  and  one-half  a  bushel  of  sand  ; 
hut  for  the  more  robust  growers  the  proportions  of  loam  and  manure  should  be 
greater. 

One  of  the  favorite  methods  for  producing  flowers  in  early  winter,  is  to  take 
the  autumnal  flowering  varieties,  clip  off  their  blossoms  as  soon  as  they  appear 
until  they  are  ready  to  transfer  to  the  window,  and  then  permit  them  to  bloom 
at  freedom. 

Of  the  different  classes  of  Roses,  the 'China  are  the  most  easily  managed,  yet 
are  less  fragrant  than  the  Tea,  and  not  equal  in  beauty,  still  fully  as  abundant  in 
bloom,  which  constitutes  their  chief  merit. 

Of  Tea  Scented  Roses,  none  are  more  delicate  than  the  Devoniensis,  with  its 
large  double  form  and  light  yellow,  its  only  fault  being  shyness  of  bloom. 

The  Gloire  do  Dijon,  however,  is  most  suitable  for  training  over  the  supports, 
columns,  or  rafters  of  greenhouses  and  conservatories  ;  a  very  robust  grower. 

The  Bourbon  varieties  are  of  great  value  for  window  use  or  forcing  purposes, 
being  both  free  bloomers,  and  having  fine  forms  and  brilliant  colors.  The 
strongest  of  them  need  to  be  well  pruned  back,  especially  the  ends  of  the  largest 


WINDOW  GARDENING.  1Q7 

shoots,  which,  when  cut  off,  will  develop  fine  side  branches.  They  have  rich, 
luxuriant  foliage,  and  flowers  are  produced  in  large  clusters,  very  fragrant  and 
lasting.  The  finest  variety  of  this  class,  and  unsurpassed  among  all  Roses,  is 
the  Souvenir  de  La  Malmaison,  a  very  large  flower,  of  full  and  beautiful  form, 
light  flesh  or  fawn  color;  needs  to  be  well  drained. 

The  Noisette  Roses  are  distinctive  specially  for  their  blooming  in  clusters,  par- 
taking the  nature  of  true  climbers,  and  usually  quite  vigorous.  The  Aimie 
Vibert  is  the  prettiest  of  the  group ;  flowers  purest  white,  borne  in  large  clus- 
ters. The  Lamarque  is  a  universal  favorite  among  greenhouse  owners;  flowers 
pale  lemon  yellow,  very  large,  double,  and  beautiful ;  growth  very  vigorous. 


CHAPTER    XVII. 

The  Fuchsia.    TJie  Myrtle. 

These  graceful  flowers  have  a  curious  history.  They  are  natives  of  South 
America,  and  were  first  brought  to  England  nearly  a  hundred  years  ago.  Mr 
Lee,  a  well-known  English  florist,  introduced  them  to  the  public  in  1774.  A 
customer  purchasing  plants  of  him  said :  «'  I  saw,  in  a  window  at  Wapping,  a 
prettier  flower  than  all  your  greenhouses  can  produce.  The  flowers  hung  like 
tassels  from  the  drooping  branches ;  their  color  was  of  the  richest  crimson,  and 
in  the  centre  were  folded  leaves  of  the  brightest  Tyrian  purple  dye." 

Mr.  Lee  enquired  the  exact  locality  where  this  rare  novelty  was  to  be  seen, 
and  hastened  to  behold  it.  At  a  glance  he  knew  its  worth.  Entering  the  house 
he  told  its  mistress  that  he  would  pay  any  price  that  she  chose  to  ask  for  her 
plant.  No,  she  could  not  sell  it ;  it  had  been  brought  by  her  sailor  boy  from 
over  the  sea,  and  for  his  sake  she  cherished  it. 

Mr.  Lee  must  have  it;  so  he  emptied  his  pockets  of  their  contents  of  gold,  sil- 
ver, and  copper,  amounting  in  all  to  over  eight  guineas.  Placing  them  on  her 
table,  he  said : 

"All  this  money  is  yours,  and  the  plant  mine.  I'll  give  you  one  of  the  first 
cuttings  I  raise ;  and  when  your  boy  returns  the  plant  will  be  quite  as  handsome 
as  this  one." 

Money  always  has  a  potent  force,  and  the  woman  reluctantly  consented,  and 
Mr.  Lee  hastened  away  with  his  treasure.  He  cut  it  into  joints,  these  he  forced 
in  hot  beds,  and  the  smallest  branch  took  root.  Every  effort  was  employed  to 
increase  his  stock,  and  in  two  months  he  had  three  hundred  plants  growing 
finely. 

As  soon  as  the  first  plant  bloomed  the  pot  was  exhibited  in  his  show  window. 
A  lady  of  rank  was  the  first  visitor;  she  was  delighted  with  the  loveliness  and 
grace  of  the  flower,  and  must  have  the  plant,  for  which  she  gladly  paid  one 
guinea.  That  night  the  Duchess  entertained  friends,  and  her  rare  plant  was 
much  admired.  The  following  day  Mr.  Lee  had  many  visitors,  but  only  two 
plants  were  in  bloom. 

Others  were  engaged,  however,  and  before  the  summer  closed  he  had  made  three 
hundred  guineas  from  the  Fuchsia.  Since  that  time  one  cannot  estimate  the 
amount  of  money  that  has  been  expended  upon  these  plants,  nor  the  time  and 
patience  that  has  been  given  to  their  culture ;  but  the  results  are  seen  in  the 
hundreds  of  varieties  now  offered  for  sale,  and  they  increase  yearly  in  size  and 
beauty  of  coloring,  and  popular  favor.  The  variety  from  wh;ch  they  originated 


WINDOW   GARDENING. 

is  now  rarely  seen;  its  flowers  are  small  and  its  foliage  very  different  from  those 
we  now  cultivate.  Although  so  insignificant,  when  compared  to  its  gorgeous 
misters,  yet  its  fragile  flowers  press  beautifully,  and  they  are  great  acquisitions 
in  a  bouquet  or  wreath  of  pressed  flowers. 

Culture. 

Fuchsias  do  not  require  a  high  temperature ;  a  very  warm,  dry  atmosphere  is 
not  favorable  to  their  growth,  but  they  need  light  and  air — not  so  much  the  direct 
rays  of  the  sun  as  roses  and  geraniums — but  if  kept  in  too  dark  a  situation  they 
will  loose  their  leaves  and  drop  their  buds. 

Good  rich  soil  is  needed  for  luxuriant  growth,  and  well  rotted  turf  mixed  with 
peat,  is  quite  to  their  taste ;  the  dark  soil  from  the  forests,  composed  in  a  great 
degree  of  leaf  mould,  with  a  little  sand  added  to  it,  will  make  them  grow  luxu 
riously.  A  Serratifolia  and  a  Speciosa  have  grown  three  feet  high  in  one  winter 
in  such  a  soil,  and  they  were  covered  with  a  wealth  of  buds  and  flowers.  Their 
growth  was  magnificent !  The  above  named  are  winter  flowering  varieties,  and 
will  bloom  in  window  gardens  from  nine  to  ten  months  in  the  year. 

The  Fuchsia  is  a  gross  feeder,  and  requires  a  good  deal  of  room  for  ils  roots 
when  it  is  growing  rapidly.  It  can  be  planted  in  small  pots,  and  as  the  branches 
increase,  watch  the  roots  and  do  not  let  the  plants  become  root  bound. 

Two  years  old  plants  will  bloom  profusely— often  having  hundreds  of  flowers 
upon  them — but  they  must  have  liquid  manure  once  a  week  to  be  grown  in  per- 
fection. 

When  raised  from  cuttings,  they  strike  quickly  in  damp  sand,  and  should  be 
transplanted  into  rich  soil,  in  three  inch  pots.  In  two  weeks  tie  the  main  branch 
to  a  small  stick  and  train  the  plant  into  asymmetrical  shape.  When  the  branches 
are  two  or  three  inches  long  pinch  out  their  tips,  and  two  or  three  branches  will 
start  from  each  one. 

A  really  beautiful  plant  of  handsome  shape  is  obtained  only  by  care.  The 
accompanying  illustration,  Fig.  72,  is  a  specimen  out  of  thirty  others  grown  from 
a  small  cutting  in  twelve  months.  The  cutting  selected  should  be  strong,  healthy 
and  woody,  with  no  less  than  three  or  four  joints  ;  each  leaf  should  be  pulled  off, 
and  then  set  the  cutting  two  or  three  inches  in  the  soil,  and  about  one  inch  out. 
The  proper  temperature  is  55°  to  65° ;  atmosphere  moderately  moist ;  use  rain- 
water of  same  temperature  as  the  atmosphere. 

Many  persons  prefer  to  have  young  plants  every  year  or  two,  and  let  the  old 
ones  die  away.  But  the  old  plants  can  be  judiciously  managed,  and  make  very 
pretty  plants  for  years  to  come.  Set  them  in  the  cellar  until  late  in  January; 
let  them  lose  every  leaf;  then  take  up,  and  cut  back  severely.  If  you  want  a 
pyramidal  shape  cut  back  all  the  branches,  and  some  of  the  top  also. 

If  you  like  an  umbrella  shaped  plant,  choose  the  drooping  kinds,  and  cut  off 
the  lower  branches  close  to  the  main  stem,  within  two  or  three  feet  of  the  pot; 
then  cut  the  branches  next  higher  up,  to  within  a  few  inches  of  the  stem,  and 


200 


WINDOW  GARDENING. 


cut  the  top  off  entirely.     Turn  out  of  the  pots  and  trim  some  of  the  straggling 

roots,    and  put  it  in  a  twelve  to  fourteen  inch  pot ;  prepare  soil  of  rotted  turf  and 

hot  bed  manure,  or  well  decomposed  cow  manure,  with  a  small  handful  of  sand 

When  potted,  water  with  warm  water,  and  thoroughly  sprinkle  once  a  week 


Ifig.  72.— A  well  gro   -i  Specimen  Plant  of  the  Fuchsia.    (From  a  Photograph.) 

Always  encourage  the  main  stem  to  grow  straight,  and  tie  it  to  a  stake  ;  then 
form  your  plant  as  you  k  .lease.  Often  you  will  have  to  cut  back  so  as  to  make  a 
skeleton  from  which  the  branches  can  start  as  you  choose  to  have  them. 


WINDOW    GARDENING. 


201 


Fuchsias  are  greatly  troubled  wvth  the  red  spider,  and  for  antidotes  consult 
chapter  on  Insects,  Part  I. 

When  the  plants  are  in  the  cellar  they  will  not  need  any  water,  but  when 
growing  rapidly  and  flowering,  they  desire  a  good  supply,  yet  not  too  much ; 
don't  keep  them  soaking  or  let  them  become  dry ;  either  condition  will  make 
them  drop  their  buds. 

In  training  plants  due  heed  sho»<M  be  paid  to  their  natural  habits.  A  plant 
like  the  Pride  of  England — 
which  always  grows  like  a 
shrub — cannot  be  forced  into 
the  umbrella  or  spreading  form  ; 
while  those  like  the  Souvenir  de 
Chiswick,  naturally  inclined  to 
the  tree-shape,  cannot  be  forced 
into  a  shrub.  They  must  fol- 
low out  their  own  peculiar  hab- 
its to  thrive  well.  In  Califor- 
nia they  bloom  every  month  in 
the  year,  and  grow  as  tall  as  the 
honeysuckles  of  the  Atlantic 
coast.  The  Double  Fuchsias  are 
most  beautiful,  and  when  stud- 
ded all  over  with  their  gorgeous 
wealth  of  pendant  floral  gems, 
are  unsurpassed  by  any  other 
flower.  They  are  not  inclined  to 
bloom  in  the  winter,  but  if  all 
their  buds  are  pinched  oft,  and 
they  are  kept  in  the  shade,  and 
little  water  given  until  October 
or  November,  they  will  bloom 
in  January  and  February. 

The  varieties  are  very  numer- 
ous, and  yearly  the  florists  pro- 
duce new  ones.  They  are  raised 

from  seeds  by  most   Careful  hy-  Fig.  73.— A  Fuchsia  trained  in  Umbrella  form. 

oridization,  and  they  will  bloom  in  two  years.  The  seeds  require  careful  treat 
ment,  bottom  heat,  and  a  gardener's  care  to  germinate  well ;  but  a  young  chile 
can  raise  a  cutting,  so  easy  is  its  culture.  There  are  no  plants  which  more  fully 
repay  the  attention  you  may  give  them ;  and  they  are  so  graceful  and  attractive 
that  they  strike  even  the  dullest  eye  with  admiration. 

The  Fuchsia  was  named  in  honor  of  Leonard  Fuchs,  a  German  botanist  of 
repute. 

The  most  desirable  varieties  besides  those  already  named,  are : 


202  WINDOW   GARDENING* 

SINGLE  FUCHSIAS. 

Arabella,  white  sepals,  with  rich  rose  corolla ;  the  best  early  variety. 

Brilliant,  purple  globular-shaped  corolla,  scarlet  sepals. 

Charming,  large  violet,  saucer  shaped  corolla,  with  scarlet  sepals. 

Conquest,  bright  scarlet  sepals,  corolla,  rich  dark  purple  ;  very  free  bloomer 

Conspicua,  snowy  white  corolla,  with  bright-scarlet  sepals  ;  very  beautiful. 

Empress,  long,  white  corolla,  with  rich  crimson  sepals  ;  extra  fine. 

First  of  the  Day,  scarlet  sepals,  with  well  expanded  lavender  corolla. 

Father  Ignatius,  brilliant  carmine  sepals,  with  rich  indigo  blue  corolla. 

Evening  Star,  blush  sepals,  with  pinkish  scarlet  corolla. 

Lustre,  vivid  crimson  corolla,  sepals  waxy  white ;  free  bloomer. 

Minstrel,  pink  sepals,  with  rosy  lavender  corolla. 

Marginata,  white  sepals  with  pink  corolla,  edged  with  deep  rose-color. 

Freund  J.  Durr,  richest  scarlet  sepals,  with  purple  corolla,  the  stamens  chang- 
ing to  petals. 

Prince  Imperial,  corolla  dark  purple,  sepals  bright  scarlet ;  the  earliest  of  the 
dark  varieties. 

Rose  of  Castile,  sepals  blush  white,  purplish  corolla,  changing  to  crimson. 

Ehoderic  Dhu,  very  large  lavender  blue  corolla,  sepals  salmon-tinted  scarlet. 

Starlight,  pure  waxy  white  sepals,  clear  bright  lake  pink  corolla. 

War  Eagle,  sepals  rich  crimson,  corrolla  very  largely  expanded,  of  a  dark  pur 
pie  striped  with  rose. 

DOUBLE  FUCHSIAS — SELECT  LIST. 

Elm  City,  rich  crimson  sepals,  with  dark  purple  corolla,  fully  double, 

Emperor  of  the  Fuchsias,  white  corolla  large  and  fine,  sepals  crimson. 

Giant,  immense  double  purple  corolla,  with  bright  rose  sepals. 

Gloire  des  Blanc,  snowy  white  corolla,  crimson  sepals. 

Madame  Grouse,  white  corolla,  very  long,  scarlet  sepals. 

Marksman,  sepals  bright  carmine,  corolla  very  large,  of  a  rich  dark  violet ; 
extra  fine. 

Norfolk  Giant,  deep  purple  corolla,  with  scarlet  sepals. 

Queen  of  Whites,  pure  white  corolla,  very  double,  with  crimson  sepals. 

Surpasse  V.  de  Puebla,  scarlet  sepals,  with  white  corolla  veined  with  scarlet ; 
extra  fine. 

Symbol,  crimson  sepals  much  reflexed,  creamy  white  double  corolla,  -  / 
beautiful. 

For  a  select  list  choose  Lustre,  Ehoderic  Dhu,  Elm  City,  Marksman.    These 

four  are  the  best  of  the  entire  collection. 

/ 

The  Myrtle. 

The  use  of  the  Myrtle  for  decorations  reminds  us  of  the  esteem  with  which  it 
?  as  held  by  the  ancient  Greeks,  who  dedicated  it  to  Vem«-i,  the  goddess  of 


WINDOW  GARDENING.  203 

beauty.  Its  leaves  were  used  to  improve  the  flavor  of  wine,  and  to  increase  its 
invigorating  properties,  while  its  berries  were  taken  as  a  medicine.  Garlands 
of  it  were  woven  to  adorn  the  brows  of  their  chief  magistrates,  and  it  was 
always  used  to  crown  the  dead.  The  early  Christians  continued  this  custom, 
but  it  was  prohibited  on  account  of  its  use  by  the  idolaters ;  yet  the  Myrtle  has 
always  been  retained  as  a  religious  decoration,  and,  in  Germany,  composes  the 
bridal  wreath.  The  Italians  have  a  great  passion  for  this  plant,  preferring  its 
odors  to  that  of  the  most  precious  essences,  and  their  baths  are  often  perfumed 
with  water  distilled  from  its  leaves,  as  it  is  considered  a  promoter  of  beauty. 

In  Australia  the  Myrtle  grows  to  a  great  size,  having  a  large  stem  or  trunk, 
and  sometimes  it  is  one  hundred  feet  in  height. 

The  Myrtle  we  cultivate  is  that  spoken  of  in  the  Bible,  and  the  Jews  still  re- 
gard it  with  veneration,  and  always  use  it  to  adorn  the  Feast  of  the  Tabernacles 
— literally  obeying  the  command  of  Nehemiah  to  "  Fetch  olive,  pine  and  myrtle." 

Culture. 

There  is  a  broad  leaved  variety,  a  narrow  leaved,  the  box  myrtle,  and  the 
Chinese.  The  last  named  produces  purple  flowers,  the  others  bear  pure  double 
white  flowers,  and  are  always  most  lovely  shrubs  for  window  gardens. 

It  does  not  flourish  in  a  close  hot  temperature,  but  will  bear  a  cool,  shady 
window,  with  a  northerly  exposure.  It  needs  fresh  air  and  frequent  washings, 
to  grow  luxuriantly.  It  does  not  form  roots  rapidly,  like  the  Rose  and  Fuchsia, 
so  will  not  require  repotting  often ;  and  yet  do  not  let  it  become  root-bound, 
for  that  will  check  its  blooming.  It  is  propagated  by  cuttings,  which  will  soon 
strike  under  glass,  and  with  a  little  bottom  heat,  but  not  so  quickly  without 
them.  This  plant  was  formerly  to  be  seen  in  all  window  gardens.  Why  it  is 
not  more  common  now  we  do  not  understand,  unless  it  be  that  the  Ivy  is  more 
popular. 

The  cuttings  should  be  made  with  four  or  five  buds  or  joints,  and  covered  an 
inch  under  the  sand.  When  it  begins  to  show  fresh  leaves,  pot  it  in  good,  rich 
«andy  loam,  in  a  three  or  four  inch  pot,  and  keep  it  shaded  for  nearly  a  week. 
The  best  soil  is  two  parts  loam,  and  one  part  rotten  dung.  It  blooms  early  in  June. 

The  Periwinkle  or  Vinca,  is  sometimes  called  Running  Myrtle,  because  of  its 
evergreen  leaves,  which  resemble  those  of  the  broad  leaved  myrtle. 

It  grows  luxuriously  in  the  open  garden  ;  is  perfectly  hardy,  and  can  be  trans- 
planted into  a  large  sea-shell  or  any  hanging  vase  filled  with  good  loam  ;  water 
it  weekly  with  some  stimulant,  and  it  will  flourish  beautifully;  and  early  in 
February  place  every  one  with  its  lovely  lavender  chalices  opening  to  the  sun.  It 
delights  in  moisture,  so  must  never  be  allowed  to  become  dry. 

The  M .  communis  is  the  usual  sort  chosen  for  window  use,  having  many  varie- 
ties with  leaves  both  large  and  small,  variegated  flowers,  single  or  double.  But 
the  Chinese  species,  M.  tomentosa,  has  also  claims  for  popularity,  on  account  of 
its  vari-colored  blooms  from  purple  to  white,  and  other  shades  between ;  often 
many  colored  flowers  on  the  same  plant. 


The  Heliotrope. 

The  celebrated  JUSSIBU,  while  botanizing  in  the  Cordilleras,  suddenly  inhaled 
the  most  delicious  odors.  He  looked  eagerly  about  to  discover  their  origin,  ex- 
pecting to  find  some  brilliantly  colored  flower,  but  only  perceived  some  large 
bushes  bearing  clusters  of  flowers  of  a  pale  lavender  hue.  On  coming  nearer  he 
observed  that  the  flowers  turned  towards  the  sun.  Struck  with  this  peculiarity, 
he  gave  the  plant  the  name  of  Heliotrope,  which  is  derived  from  the  Greek  words 
signifying  "  sun,"  and  "  I  turn."  Delighted  with  the  charming  acquisition,  the 
learned  botanist  collected  a  quantity  of  seeds  and  sent  them  to  the  Jardin  du 
Roiy  at  Paris,  where  it  was  first  cultivated  in  Europe,  in  1757. 

It  soon  became  a  treasured  household  flower,  and  is  found  in  every  window 
garden  and  bouquet.  Three  species  have  since  been  introduced  from  the  south  of 
Europe  and  Asia. 

The  Heliotrope  has  been  called  emblematical  of  flattery.  The  Orientals  say, 
that  its  perfumes  elevate  their  souls  toward  heaven. 

It  is  prized  more  for  its  fragrance  than  the  beauty  of  its  flowers ;  though  Vol- 
taireanum  has  deep  purple  flowers  that  are  very  handsome,  and  many  of  the  later 
varieties  are  rich  in  coloring  as  well  as  in  perfume. 

The  cottagers  of  England  used  to  call  it  "  cherry  pie,"  from  a  fancied  resemb- 
lance of  the  fragrance  of  the  flower  to  the  odor  of  nicely  cooked  cherries.  The 
variety  introduced  by  Jussieu  was  called  Heliotropium  Peruvianum,  and  is  still 
cultivated ;  and  it  was  many  years  before  much  change  of  color  was  effected  in 
the  flower,  and  now  its  shades  are  either  lighter  or  of  a  rich  purple.  It  will 
bloom  the  whole  season ;  is  never  without  flowers  in  California,  where  it  grows 
in  immense  bushes,  and  blooms  most  luxuriantly. 

It  is  a  favorite  with  every  one,  as  its  odors  are  not  so  strong  as  those  of  many 
other  flowers,  and  pervade  the  atmosphere  to  a  small  extent.  The  older  the 
plant,  the  more  profuse  are  its  flowers,  but  it  must  be  kept  in  a  healthy  condition 
to  bloom  in  perfection. 

Cuttings  grown  in  open  borders  become  very  rank  and  succulent,  but  if  kept 
over  the  next  season,  this  disappears  and  a  woody  stem  succeeds  it. 

They  can  be  grown  as  standards  and  make  fine  showy  plants.  Prune  off  all 
the  lower  branches,  and  let  a  single  leading  stem  remain,  with  a  head  of  several 
feet  in  diameter.  Peruvianum  is  well  adapted  to  train  in  this  manner,  for 
when  the  plant  is  three  or  four  years  old  its  branches  assume  .a  drooping  habit. 

These  plants  require  close  pruning  to  flower  profusely.     If  you  desire  to  keep 


WINDOW  GARDENING  205 

the  plant  for  winter  flowering,  do  not  turn  it  out  of  the  pot,  but  keep  it  in  a 
sunny  location,  and  in  August  trim  off  a  great  many  of  its  branches,  then  the 
young  growth  will  push  forth,  and  by  January  it  will  be  covered  with  blossoms. 

Ic  will  flower  in  a  warm  atmosphere,  from  68°  to  70°,  but  it  can  bear  a  heat  of 
50°  and  do  well.  The  green  fly  never  touches  it,  but  the  red  spider  will  some- 
times ruin  it ;  yet  frequent  spongings  will  keep  it  away.  It  likes  a  good,  rich 
soil,  with  a  moderate  admixture  of  sand. 

Cuttings  root  very  easily,  either  in  sand  or  vials  of  water,  and  if  struck  in 
March  will  make  fine  plants  by  another  winter. 

They  must  have  the  sun;  they  cannot  grow  in  a  shady  location.  The  varieties 
vary  considerably  in  habit,  some  being  of  rampant,  robust  growth,  while  others 
are  dwarf  and  compact. 

The  freest  bloomers  are : 

Boule  de  Niege,  blush  white. 

Alexina,  deep  bluish  purple. 

Corymbosa,  dwarf,  light  lavender. 

Gem,  dark  bluish  purple. 

Jane  Mesmer,  rich  dark  purple. 

Triumphe  de  Guascoi,  robust  growth,  pale  lilac. 

Madame  Parker,  very  dark  purple. 

Madame  Rendatler,  very  bushy,  light  lavender. 

Jersey  Belle,  dwarf  and  compact,  lavender. 

Voltaireanum,  bluish  purple. 

The  Lantana. 

This  plant  was  given  the  ancient  name  of  the  Viburnum,  because  its  foliage  re- 
sembled it.  It  was  brought  from  the  West  Indies  in  1692.  The  flowers  are  a 
little  like  those  of  the  verbena,  but  change  in  color  from  yellow  to  a  deep  orange 
and  red,  or  from  yellow  to  a  rich  rose-color.  The  florists  have  experimented 
with  it,  and  produced  many  new  varieties,  among  them  a  pure  white  flower, 
which  is  much  admired.  It  grows  very  robust  in  a  rich  but  sandy  loam,  and 
needs  plenty  of  sun  and  water  when  in  flower.  It  is  propagated  either  by  seeds 
or  cuttings.  The  latter  can  be  started  in  April  or  May,  either  in  water  or 
sand,  and  will  make  large  plants  by  another  spring. 

This  plant  can  bear  the  knife  well,  and  can  be  trained  into  a  graceful  shape.  It 
needs  repotting  every  spring,  and  then  is  the  time  to  prune  it,  and  shorten  in  the 
branches.  Towards  autumn  give  less  water  to  harden  the  wood.  If  large  plants 
are  desired  tc  be  kept  through  the  winter  for  bedding  out  another  summer,  place 
them  in  a  cool  cellar,  frost  proof,  however,  and  let  them  remain  until  March 
without  any  wateY,  unless  the  soil  become  dust  dry;  but  in  a  damp  and  perfectly 
dark  cellar  this  rarely  occurs. 

The  handsomest  varieties  for  window  gardens  are  : 

Lantana  alba  grandiflora,  large  flowered  white. 

Crocea  superba,  brilliant  orange  turning  to  scarlet. 


206  WINDOW  GARDENING. 

Comtesse  Mory,  blush  turning  to  rose. 
Fillonii,  yellow,  changing  to  purple. 
Fulgens  mutdbilis,  scarlet  and  yellow. 
Garibaldi,  lilac. 

Imperatrice  Eugenie,  blush  and  white 
Snowball,  purest  of  white. 
Surpasse,  lilac,  with  yellow. 
Zanthena,  scarlet  buff  and  lemon-color. 

The  Hoya,  or  Wax  Plant. 

This  plant  will  thrive  splendidly  in  a  close,  hot  room.  It  does  not  require 
much  moisture,  but  loves  heat.  It  is  a  fine  plant  to  droop  over  pictures  or  train 
about  windows.  The  pot  can  be  placed  on  a  high  shelf  near  a  window,  and  the 
branches  trained  so  that  they  will  have  the  warm  air  at  the  top  of  the  room. 

The  Hoya  requires  a  soil  of  peat,  loam  and  a  little  sand,  and  if  liquid  manure 
is  given  every  fortnight  it  will  not  need  repotting  oftener  than  four  or  five  years, 
as  it  does  not  root  vigorously. 

The  flower  stalks  bloom  anew  year  after  year,  so  they  should  not  be  cut  off 
when  the  petals  drop. 

The  best  way  of  propagating  this  plant  is  by  layers,  though  cuttings  can  some- 
times be  started  with  much  bottom  heat. 

The  leaves  are  of  a  deep,  waxy  green,  and  the  flowers  are  cream -colored,  with 
dark  chocolate  stamens,  and  possess  a  peculiar  fragrance,  often  likened  to  the 
odor  of  fresh  baked  bread.  They  bloom  in  full  clusters,  and  secrete  a  honey 
like  juice. 

The  Hoya  is  not  commonly  cultivated,  yet  it  merits  attention. 


CHAPTER   XIX. 

The   Geranium. 

The  improvement  in  the  Geranium  by  English  and  American  florists,  both  in 
the  size  of  the  individual  flower,  or  their  clusters,  or  their  foliage,  are  really 
wonderful  when  compared  with  the  flowers  of  fifteen  years  ago. 

Frequently  the  single  flower  is  now  as  large  as  a  silver  quarter  of  a  dollar, 
and  the  trusses  will  often  measure  over  six  inches  in  diameter,  while  colors  are 
seen  from  the  purest  white  to  most  delicate  rose,  brilliant  scarlet,  richest  crim- 
son, loveliest  salmon-color,  and  striped  pink  and  white. 

The  foliage  is  also  much  improved ;  it  is  margined  with  gold  or  silver,  zoned 
with  chocolate,  white,  black,  crimson,  aud  gold,  and  in  a  few  choice  varieties, 
like  Lady  Cullum  and  Madame  Pollock;  nearly  all  these  colors  may  be  seen  i 
one  separate  leaf. 

Their  habits  are  also  changed  from  the  straggling  growth  of  former  times,  to 
dwarf,  compact  shrubs,  which  are  in  perfect  shape. 

The  florist's  skill  has  taken  still  another  step,  and  produced  the  Double  Flow- 
ered Geranium,  whose  individual  flowers  are  double  as  a  Chrysanthemum,  and 
do  not  drop  their  petals  as  the  single  varieties,  but  each  flower  withers  on  its 
stem  ;  and  by  cutting  it  off  the  other  flowers  fill  its  place,  and  the  beauty  of  the 
cluster  is  preserved  for  a  long  season.  These  varieties  run  through  the  same 
series  of  colors  as  single  species,  although  a  pure  £nowy  white  has  not  yet  been 
produced,  but  a  peach  blossom  variety  shows  that  the  white  will  soon  appear. 

The  flower  clusters  are  often  enormous — sixty  flowers  having  been  produced 
on  one  truss — and  they  are  exceedingly  beautiful  for  bouquets,  baskets,  and 
vases. 

With  the  other  improvements  have  come  a  Lilliputian  variety  with  smaller 
foliage,  and  a  compact,  dwarf  growth,  very  vigorous  in  habit,  while  the  flowers 
equal  in  beauty  those  of  the  taller  varieties. 

The  Ivy-leaved  species  have  yielded  to  the  effects  of  hybridizing  with  the 
Zonale  class,  and  the  results  are  great  improvements  in  the  foliage,  variegating 
the  leaves  with  yellow,  pink  and  white,  while  the  flowers  have  increased  in  size 
and  color,  and  approach  nearer  to  those  of  the  Zonales. 

The  sweet-scented  Geraniums  have  also  increased  in  number,  and  a  variegated 
""caved  Rose  Geranium  has  been  introduced  whose  foliage  is  very  attractive. 

These  different  varieties  are  propagated  by  seeds  and  cuttings  chiefly.  The 
seeds  require  sandy  soil  and  warmth  to  veget&te,  but  will  sometimes  spring  up 
of  themselves  in  the  open  ground. 


208  WINDOW  GARDENING. 

Cuttings  are  easily  struck,  as  recommended  in  Part  T. 

The  plants  require  plenty  of  sun,  air,  water  ;  a  rich  loamy  soil,  with  wetkly 
waterings  of  liquid  manure,  and  a  season  of  rest.  A  good  compost  is  made  of 
one-half  two  years  old  manure,  and  one-half  good  fresh  loam. 

For  winter  blooming,  che  plants  should  be  repotted  early  in  September;  shake 
all  the  earth  away  from  the  roots,  prune  back  the  tops  closely,  and  cut  in  the 
branches  with  due  regard  to  the  shape  of  the  plants.  Press  the  fresh  earth 
closely  around  the  soil,  and  keep  the  plants  shaded  for  a  week  or  so,  then  give 
more  sun  and  water,  and  by  December  they  will  be  stocky,  thrifty  plants,  with 
buds  well  set,  which  will  keep  in  bloom  for  many  months. 

They  do  not  require  a  warm  temperature,  and  should  be  kept  cool  at  night, 
and  ought  not  to  be  crowded  as  they  want  a  free  circulation  of  air  through  the 
branches  and  leaves;  but  draughts  of  air  will  injure  them.  When  the  buds 
begin  to  show  they  need  to  be  stimulated  with  liquid  manure. 

In  summer,  when  the  weather  is  close  and  hot,  it  is  well  to  keep  saucers 
under  the  pots,  and  give  water  twice  a  day,  as  the  foliage  will  wilt  and  become 
injured  if  the  roots  get  dry,  and  they  do  not  need  the  noonday  sun  ;  are  better 
if  shaded  from  it. 

It  is  difficult  to  give  lists  of  the  very  best  when  all  are  so  good,  but  a  few 
choice  varieties  are  herewith  appended : 

ZONALE  GERANIUMS, 

Azucena,  salmon-color  shaded  to  white,  large  flower. 

Cheerfuly  bright  cherry-color. 

Christine,  richest  rosy  pink,  nosegay  variety. 

Distinction,  brilliant  carmine,  bordered  with  white. 

Gloire  de  Corbenay,  bright  salmon  pink,  tipped  with  white. 

Knight  of  the  Garter,  deepest  orange  scarlet,  marked  with  pink,  nosegay 
Tariety. 

Cybister,  the  most  dazzling  scarlet  nosegay. 

Madame  Chandon,  bright  rose- color,  extra  large  flower. 

Madame  Paul  Hibon,  white  ground,  bordered  and  veined  with  blood-red ; 
extra. 

Madame  Chate,  salmon-color,  marked  with  white,  and  bordered  with  rose- 
color. 

Ne  plus  Ultra,  pure  rose,  spotted  with  white. 

Snowball,  purest  white,  dwarf  habit. 

Vicomtesse  de  Flavigny,  bright  rose,  marked  with  white  ;  extra  flower 

Madame  Dupanloup,  blush  white,  nosegay. 

TRICOLOR  GERANIUMS. 

Lady  Cullum,  margined  with  gold,  mingled  with  crimson,  and  bronze  ;  scarlet 
flowers. 


WINDOW  GARDENING  209 

Mrs.  Pollock,   zone  of  red,  belted  with  crimson   and  gold-color;    scarlet 
flowers. 

Sir  Robert  Napier,  broad,  black  zone  indented  with  brilliant  scarlet,  and  mar 
gined  with  gold  flowers,  peach-color,  with  rose  centre 

Sophie  Dumaresque,  chocolate  zone,  margined  with  golden  yellow ;  scarlet 
flower. 

Beauty  of  Oulton,  broad,  bronze  zone,  on  a  yellow  green  leaf;  flowers  cerise 
scarlet. 

Beauty  of  Calderdale,  broad  zone  of  a  reddish  bronze,  margined  with  yellow ; 
scarlet  flowers. 

Italia  Unita,  broad,  white  margin;  flowers  scarlet. 

Sunset,  ground  color,  golden  yellow,  veined  with  crimson,  black  and  green. 

Mountain  of  Snow,  pure  white  margined  leaves,  scarlet  flowers. 

LILLIPUTIAN  ZONALE. 

Baby  Boy,  scarlet,  white  eye. 

Beauty  of  Sureenes,  rich  shade  of  pink. 

Bridesmaid,  rosy  salmon-color. 

Cybester,  orange  crimson. 

Little  Dear,  delicate  rose,  with  white  spots. 

Little  Gem,  brilliant  vermilion,  white  centre. 

Pretty  Jemima,  brilliant  scarlet,  white  eye. 

DOUBLE  FLOWERING. 

Conseiller  Ragon,  rich  orange  red,  very  fine. 
CaptLa  Hermite,  rich  scarlet. 
Andrew  Henderson,  brightest  cherry  scarlet. 
Jeanne  de  St.  Maur,  bright  dazzling  vermilion. 
Le  Vesuve,  very  double  scarlet  flowers,  habit  dwarf  and  compact. 
Ferre  Promise,  a  bright  satiny  red,  dwarf,  bushy  growth. 
Emile  Lemoine,  crimson  scarlet  flowers,  very  double. 
Marie  Lemoine,  rosy  pink,  very  fine  dwarf. 
William  Pfitzer,  orange  scarlet-color. 
Victor  Lemoine,  brightest  scarlet,  dwarf  and  bushy. 
Triomphe  de  Lorraine,  rosy  carmine,  striped  with  white. 

SWEET  SCENTED. 

Under  this  head  are  comprised  the  several  varieties  of  Rose-scented 
Rose  Capitatum< 

Capitatum  Major,  large  leaf,  rose. 
Denticulatum,  cut  leaf,  rose. 
Odoratissimum,   apple-scented. 
Odoratissimum-erectum,  nutmeg-scented. 
Shrubland  Pet,  variegated  foliage. 

14 


210  WINDOW   GARDENING. 

Lady  Plymouth,  variegated  foliage,  rose  scented. 
Dr.  Livingston,  lemon-scented. 
Quercifolium,  eximium,  oak-leaved. 

IVY-LEAVED  GERANIUMS 

Aurea  variegata,  golden  margined. 

Lateripes,  the  common  variety,  white  flowers. 

L' Elegante,  brilliant  green  foliage,  with  broad  bands  of  creamy  white,  pme 
white  flowers;  extra  handsome. 

Duke  of  Edinburgh^  (Holly wreath,}  variegated  with  gold  and  silver  margins ; 
pink  flowers. 

The  Pelargonium. 

Pelargoniums  are  also  among  the  most  beautiful  plants  we  have  for  house 
culture.  Fifteen  years  ago,  or  more,  great  attention  was  paid  to  their  cultiva- 
tion, and  veined,  spotted  and  white  flowers,  which  rivaled  the  Pansy  in  size  and 
beauty  of  coloring,  were  yearly  the  pride  and  boast  of  the  florist.  Of  late  years 
the  Zonale  and  Double  Flowered  Geraniums  have  been  more  attended  to,  but 
they  can  never  equal  the  flowers  of  the  Pelargonium. 

They  are  natives  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  and  trace  their  name  to  the  re- 
semblance of  the  Capsules  to  the  Stork's  bill ;  hence  frompelargos,  the  Latin  for 
Stork,  comes  the  title.  Nothing  can  surpass  the  richness  of  coloring  of  these 
flowers. 

Mr.  Henderson  places  it  as  his  first  choice.  "  If  I  were  confined  to  grow  but 
a  single  genus  of  plants  for  conservatoiy  decoration,  the  Pelargonium  would  be 
chosen."  Their  hues  are  in  every  shade  of  scarlet,  crimson,  cherry,  pink,  pur- 
ple to  lilac  and  white,  while  they  are  blotched,  marbled  and  spotted  with  velvety 
black,  maroon,  and  all  its  shades. 

Their  growth  is  very  vigorous,  and  they  require  repotting  both  spring  and 
fall  to  bloom  in  full  perfection. 

They  are  most  charming  flowers  for  all  kinds  of  grouping,  and  their  colors 
blend  and  mingle  in  great  beauty. 

They  are  easy  of  culture,  but  require  a  rich  soil  to  flourish  well.  Cuttings 
rooted  in  the  spring  make  large  plants  by  autumn.  The  old  roots  can  be  wintered 
in  pots  or  boxes  in  the  cellar,  and  brought  forward  to  light  and  heat  in  March, 
and  should  not  be  allowed  to  wilt  for  want  of  water. 

New  varieties  are  raised  from  seeds  sown  as  soon  as  ripe,  or  in  March  or 
April.  When  the  fourth  or  fifth  leaves  are  well  developed  transplant  into  three 
inch  pots 

Some  of  the  newest  varieties  are : 

Belle  of  the  Ball,  rose-color,  veined,  and  blotched  with  crimson. 

Butterfly,  deepest  crimson  with  black  spots  and  veins. 

Captivation,  purest  white,  blotched  with  deep  crimson. 

Emperor,  lower  petals  nearly  white,  upper  ones  dark  maroon. 


WINDOW  GARDENING.  211 

Eugene  Duval,  light  purple  with  dark  blotches. 

General  Taylor,  carmine  with  crimson  spots. 

Grand  Duchess  Stephanie,  brilliant  carmine  with  very  da^ '    blotches. 

Invincible,  crimson,  veined  with  white. 

ISAvenir,  rosy  scarlet,  striped  with  white. 

Monarch,  maroon,  crimson  and  rose. 

Madame  Leroy,  violet  purple,  with  bluish  lilac  centre. 

Sunrise,  delicate  scarlet  and  crimson,  with  dark  blotcfc* 

Unique  Miellez  cherrv  «w»0ri«»* 


XX. 

THE   OLEANDER  ;  BOUVARDIA  ;  MAHERNIA   ODOR  ATA. 

The  Oleander  is  a  native  of  the  Holy  Land,  and  Keble  alludes  to  it  as  fol 
lows: 

"In  the  flowery  land  of  Palestine  it  is  always  found  wherever  rivers  or  water 
courses  invite  its  thirsty  roots. 

The  banks  of  the  Jordan  are  clothed  with  this  beautiful  plant,  aptly  styled  "a 
gem  among  flowers;  and  it  blooms  at  the  overflow  of  that  river,  its  roots  being 
then  partly  nmersed  in  water;  yet  it  will  endure  the  extreme  heat  and  baked 
soil  of  an  E  istern  summer  when  the  brooks  and  rivers  are  shrunk  into  the  nar- 
rowest streams." 

A  rich  turfy  loam  must  be  provided  for  it  to  grow  in,  and  from  the  end  of 
September  until  March  or  April,  it  should  receive  no  more  water  than  will  pre- 
vent the  soil  from  being  crumbly  ;  and  during  the  rest  of  the  year  it  should 
have  a  most  bountiful  supply,  and  the  tub  or  pot  should  be  immersed  in  a  saucer 
or  a  half  tub  filled  with  water. 

It  is  very  easily  propagated  by  cuttings  during  the  spring  or  summer  months. 
They  should  be  taken  from  the  young  shoots  and  cut  off  close  under  the  fourth 
joint,  cutting  off  the  three  lower  leaves,  but  without  injuring  the  bark  of  the 
stem. 

The  most  simple  way  of  rooting  them  is  in  vials  of  rainwater,  hung  in  the 
windows  of  a  warm  room.  The  cuttings  should  not  be  deeper  in  the  water  than 
half  way  up  to  the  second  joint.  In  a  short  time  tiny  white  roots  will  make  their 
appearance,  and  when  these  are  about  half  an  inch  long,  take  it  carefully  out 
and  pot  in  light  sandy  soil ;  keep  moist  and  shaded  from  the  sun  until  the 
bright  color  of  the  leaves  show  that  the  roots  are  growing. 

Water  and  warmth  will  produce  roots  rapidly,  but  cannot  sustain  growth. 
So  when  cuttings  are  rooted  in  water,  they  should  be  transplanted  as  soon  as 
the  rootlets  are  from  half  an  inch  to  an  inch  in  length. 

Dwarf  Oleanders  that  will  flower  the  succeeding  spring,  when  not  over  a  foo 
high,  can  be  produced  as  follows  : 

Early  in  September  or  October,  according  to  your  climate,  cut  three  to  four 
joints  from  a  topmost  branch,  leaving  a  joint  at  the  end,  strip  off  the  leaves, 
take  a  six  inch  pot  filled  with  turfy  loam,  and  a  little  moss  at  the  bottom  of  the 
pot,  press  it  firmly  in,  and  make  holes  around  the  edge  of  the  pot  about  an  inch 
and  a  half  apart,  pour  into  each  hole  half  an  inch  of  sand,  and  plant  the  cut- 
tings firmly  in  it.  Cover  the  top  of  the  pot  an  inch  deep  with  sand,  saturate 


WINDOW  GARDENING.  213 

the  whole  with  water,  and  see  that  each  cutting  is  fixed  and  immovable  -with 
out  a  strong  pull.  Upon  the  close  contact  of  cutting  and  soil  depends  half  oi 
your  success.  Keep  in  a  temperature  not  over  50°  during  the  winter,  and 
among  the  cuttings  will  be  found  several  which  have  the  heads  of  future  bloom 
in  the  upper  leaves,  and  the  perfect  flowers  will  expand  by  April  or  May. 

Of  course  the  cuttings  must  not  be  allowed  to  become  dry.  Most  plants  col- 
lect during  the  summer  a  greater  store  of  nutriment  than  is  required  for  their 
support  during  the  winter;  so  if  cuttings  of  Oleander,  Hydrangeas,  Cacti,  etc., 
are  taken  late  in  the  season,  they  possess  quite  a  store  of  nutriment,  and  will 
grow  better,  and  flower  more  profusely. 

The  only  trouble  is  that  these  late  cuttings  require  more  care  to  keep  them 
alive  during  the  winter  than  if  they  had  been  made  in  the  spring,  but  where 
there  is  no  difficulty,  there  is  no  honor. 

Bouvardia. 

These  winter  blooming  plants  are  invaluable  in  every  conservatory  or  indoor 
garden.  They  are  of  a  shrubby  character,  of  the  easiest  culture  and  becom- 
ing exceedingly  popular.  They  have  the  merit  of  being  free  bloomers,  flowering 
in  clusters  of  varied  colors  from  pink  to  crimson,  scarlet  and  white,  and  their 
flowers  are  considered  excellent  for  bouquets.  As  plants  for  the  decoration  of 
the  lawn,  also,  it  is  doubtful  if  they  have  any  superior.  In  outdoor  culture  they 
will  bloom  from  August  down  until  cold  weather,  and  if  lifted  within  doors  be- 
fore frost,  they  will  continue  blooming  down  until  March. 

They  are  popular  with  every  florist  on  account  of  their  profusion  of  bloom, 
and  the  number  and  excellence  of  varieties  seems  to  increase  yearly.  Still  they 
are  little  known  in  any  of  our  country  homes  or  family  flower  gardens.  They 
are  essentially  lovers  of  the  hot  house  during  the  winter,  needing  a  temperature 
at  night  of  55°  to  flower  well. 

They  are  propagated  chiefly  from  pieces  of  the  roots,  as  cuttings  do  not  grow 
easily;  yet  it  is  best  for  all  amateurs  at  first  to  procure  their  plants  already 
started,  and  then  by  degrees  learn  the  art  of  reproduction. 

The  plants  require  training,  and  the  tops  should  be  nipped  off  frequently  in 
the  summer  to  give  them  a  bushy  shape.  They  are  also  tender,  and  a  slight 
chill  only  will  prove  injurious.  Give  them  a  good  supply  of  water  when  in  full 
flower,  less  in  summer. 

The  usual  melhod  of  culture  is  to  let  them  grow  during  the  summer  in  the 
common  garden  border  ;  then  in  the  fall  lift  them,  pack  very  closely  in 
sand  filled  boxes,  and  store  in  the  cellar  to  keep  through  the  winter.  If  desired 
to  bloom  during  the  winter,  cut  back  one-half  the  wood,  water  sparingly, 
place  in  the  cellar  for  six  weeks,  then  bring  to  the  heat  and  light,  give  a  copious 
watering,  and  in  a  few  days  you  will  have  a  fine  bloom. 

The  soil  for  potting  should  be  loam,  leaf  mould,  peat,  and  a  little  sprinkling 
of  silver  sand  ;  pot  firmly.  If  you  wish  immediate  bloom,  let  the  plants  stand  out 
doors  in  the  fall,  two  weeks  before  you  bring  them  to  the  conservatory,  and 


214  WINDOW  GARDENING. 

then  you  will  soon  be  repaid  by  numerous  clusters  of  bright,  sweet-scented 

flowers. 
Our  list  of  varieties,  by  constant  improvement,  has  become  quite  excellent, 

but  originally  there  were  only  two  principal  varieties,  B.    leiantha  and  Hogarth 

Angustifolie  has  flowers  of  a  very  rich  orange  scarlet,  a  dwarf  growth  and  neat 
foliage.  It  blooms  constantly  during  the  summer. 

Hogarth^  bright  scarlet,  long  tube,  and  splendid  raceme,  a  very  vigorous  grower, 
and  fine  habit. 

Elegans,  a  sport  from  the  Hogarth,  light  scarlet  carmine,  wjth  the  novelty  and 
merit  of  flower  trusses,  of  immense  size,  sometimes  measuring  4  to 5  inches 
in  diameter.  Comes  true  from  root  cuttings. 

Leianthe,  bright  dazzling  scarlet ;  an  old,  well  known,  and  desirable  variety. 

Jasminoides,  a  most  valuable  acquisition,  discovered  in  a  private  collection  of 
plants  in  London,  England,  origin  unknown,  but  supposed  to  have  been 
produced  from  seeds  sent  from  South  America.  Its  merits  consist  chiefly 
in  its  ease  of  propagation.  By  cutting,  its  growth  is  rapid,  yielding  an  abun- 
dance of  flowers  of  waxy  whiteness,  said  to  resemble  the  jasmine  in  appear- 
ance and  fragrance. 

For  bouquets  and  baskets  of  cut  flowers  florists  esteem  it  invaluable. 

Vreelandiiy  a  sport  from  Hogarth,  pure  white,  a  compact  and  vigorous  grower, 
profuse  bloomer,  bearing  tresses  of  largest  size,  readily  propagated  from  root 
or  top  cuttings ;  considered  by  many  to  rank  at  the  head  of  the  white 
varieties. 

fasminoidcs  compaeta,  dwarf  habit,  white  flower,  yields  a  very  agreeable  fra- 
grance, and  quite  a  profuse  bloorner.  Both  this  and  the  Jasminoides  are 
very  valuable  for  vases  and  drawing  room  boquets. 

Mdhernia. 

A  delicate  little  plant,  always  pleasing  with  its  freedom  of  bloom.  It  is  more 
properly  called  Hermannia,  named  in  honor  of  Hermann,  a  Dutch  Botanist,  yet 
among  florists  its  popular  name  of  Mahernia  is  still  retained.  Nothing  can  be 
more  lovely  than  a  pot  of  it  in  full  bloom,  thickly  hung  with  its  lemon-colored 
bell-shaped  flowers,  which  possess  the  most  delicious  odor,  resembling  that  of 
the  Lily  of  the  Valley. 

It  is  easily  raised  by  cutting  started  in  damp  sand,  and  when  they  have 
struck,  transplanted  to  pots  filled  with  a  peaty  loam. 

It  likes  moisture,  but  not  too  much  of  it,  and  an  application  of  liquid  manure 
should  be  made  once  a  week  or  so.  The  odornta  is  the  variety  usually  grown, 
although  there  are  other  kinds,  Hector  and  Diana,  orange  and  pink.  If  too 
luxuriant,  pinch  in  unsparingly. 


CHAPTER    XXI. 

THE  VERBENA,  PETUNIA,  PYRETHRUM. 

Bedding  plants  like  these  are  not  to  be  recommended  generally  for  window 
culture,  still  window  gardeners  will  have  them,  and  we  can  only  give  directions 
for  their  culture. 

Very  great  improvements  have  been  made  in  the  last  few  years  in  the  Ver- 
bena, both  in  the  size  of  the  individual  flowers  and  the  form  of  its  clusters;  also 
in  the  great  variety  of  its  brilliant  colors  of  crimson,  scarlet,  lilac,  bluish  pur- 
ple, and  all  their  intermediate  shades,  with  eyes  of  white,  deep  crimson, 
rose,  purple,  and  yellow,  and  still  others  are  striped  and  ^potted. 

They  are  great  lovers  of  the  sun,  will  not  thrive  without  it,  yet  will  not  grow 
in  the  hot,  dry  atmosphere  of  many  sitting  rooms,  but  require  a  cool  room  dur- 
ing the  winter  months,  and  a  goodly  share  of  fresh  air  when  the  frost  is  not 
in  it. 

When  grown  as  a  house  plant  they  must  be  placed  close  to  the  glass,  and  the 
mercury  should  not  be  over  50°  during  the  day  and  less  than  45°  at  night,  until 
March.  They  do  not  like  moisture  in  the  winter,  but  should  be  kept  a  little 
dry ;  when  you  do  water,  give  a  good  supply,  and  pour  away  all  that  falls  into 
the  saucer. 

Shower  the  foliage  weekly,  to  keep  it  clear  of  the  green  fly  which  injures  it 
irroatly.  The  Verbena  Mite,  which  produces  the  "black  rust"  upon  these 
plants,  is  also  very  destructive  to  them,  but  plentiful  showerings  and  washings 
v\  ill  keep  it  way. 

These  plants  are  particular  as  to  soil,  blooming  plentifully  in  sandy  or  clayey 
loam,  if  it  is  enriched  with  well  decayed  manure,  or  liquid  stimulants. 

The  young  shoots  root  very  rapidly,  and  they  are  to  be  selected  to  make  plants 
for  window  gardens.  The  reason  why  many  fail  to  keep  them  through  the  win- 
ter is,  that  they  attempt  to  keep  the  old  plants,  or  layers  from  them,  instead  of 
striking  cuttings  in  September  or  October  from  entire  new  growth. 

The  sulphate  of  ammonia  is  an  excellent  fertilizer  for  Verbenas,  giving  the 
foliage  a  dark  green,  healthy  appearance,  and  it  is  easily  prepared  and  applied. 

Dissolve  one  ounce  of  the  ammonia  in  four  gallons  of  warm  water;  it  can  be 
«.'.-» ven  once  a  week.  Keep  the  soil  well  stirred  up  in  the  pots;  this  is  very  essen- 
tial to  the  healthy  growth  of  all  pot  plants,  for  their  roots  must  have  air  to 
Hourish.  well. 

The  cuttings  should  be  pinched  back  to  keep  the  plants  stocky  and  robust. 

In  raising  them  from  seeds,  the  soil  should  be  very  sandy,  and  kept  uniformly 


216  WINDOW  GARDENING. 

moist;  the  seecU  should  also  be  soaked  before  sowing.     When  the  second  row  of 
leaves  is  well  developed  transplant  the  seedlings  into  shallow  boxes. 

As  a  plant  for  a  vase,  either  outdoors  or  indoors,  the  Verbena  has  few  equals 
its  bright  cheerful  colors  and  steady  bloorn  being  well  calculated  to  please  the 
fancy  of  any  one. 

Many  Verbenas  are  grown  in  the  house  during  the  summer  season,  although 
more  pretty  in  the  open  garden  border.  Yet  we  suppose  every  one  has  their 
fancy  and  like  to  keep  something  pretty  constantly  on  their  window  sill.  Thej 
need  only  plenty  of  light  and  air ;  not  too  much  watering,  and  careful  pinching 

A  good  soil  for  potting  Verbenas  is  sand  1  part,  loam  2  parts,  and  leaf  mould 
or  decayed  manure  2  parts.  Keep  it  well  drained.  If  you  have  a  conservatory 
place  them  upon  a  top  shelf  until  ready  to  bring  to  the  window  for  show.  Damp 
ness  causes  mildew,  and  then  comes  the  green  fly,  the  destruction  of  which  is 
scoured  only  by  fumigation  with  tobacco. 

If  they  grow  too  straggling,  train  them,  and  a  convenient  trellis  or  framework 
may  be  made  for  them  by  using  some  of  the  wire  or  wooden  frames  used  in 
floral  stores,  set  sloping  outward  from  the  edge  of  the  pots. 

The  list  of  varieties  is  indeed  formidable,  and  every  florist  has  not  only  his 
fancies,  but  seedlings  of  his  own  year  after  year,  so  that  new  varieties  are 
abundant  enough  not  to  attract  any  remarkable  attention.  Our  bright  summer 
sunshiny  days  are  very  suitable  for  the  development  of  seeds ;  hence  our 
American  florists  are  able  in  many  cases  to  produce  handsome  varieties  surpass 
ing  those  of  Europe. 

SPECIAL  LIST. 
Annie,  one  of  the  very  best,  white,  striped  with  crimsor     blooms  constantly 

and  vigorous  grower,  truss  large. 
Black  Bedder,  very  dark  maroon,  rich. 
Conspicua,  ruby  scarlet,  with  white  eye. 
Colossus,  crimson,  violet  eye,  very  large. 
Ceres,  light  blush,  crimson  eye. 
Decorator,  light  cherry  scarlet,  yellow  eye. 
Diadem,  large  white,  violet  bordered. 
Enoch  Arden,  blush,  crimson  and  maroon. 
*Formosa,  large  pink,  white  eye. 
*  Gazelle,  deep  blue,  clear  white  eye. 

Harlequin,  pure  white,  striped  and  splashed  with  rosy  carmine 
Ivanhoe,  rich  bluish  purple,  white  eye. 
King  of  Blacks ,  deep  maroon. 
Lafayette,  scarlet  crimson,  with  white  centre. 
Fire  Gleam,  light  scarlet,  dwarf  habit. 
Pink  Beauty,  bright  pink,  with  white  eye. 
Purple  Standard,  rich  dark  purple^  white  centre. 
Silver  Star,  dark  maroon,  with  large  white  centre. 


WINDOW  GARDENING.  217 

*  Ultramarine,  the  best  blue  raised,  very  fragrant. 
White  Beauty,  purest  white. 
Warrior,  crimson  maroon,  violet  eye. 

*Beacon,  fine  dark  scarlet. 

Those  marked  with  a  star  are  considered  best  novelties  for  this  year.  Lists 
change  so  frequently,  and  new  ones  are  formed  so  quickly,  that  many  a  variety 
becomes  old  and  forgotten  in  a  few  seasons.  The  public  in  this  respect  are  de- 
pendent solely  upon  the  annual  announcements  of  the  florists.  We  could  wish 
good  varieties  might  be  a  little  more  permanent  and  less  shifting. 

The  Verbena  derives  its  name  from  the  Celtic  for  Vervain,  a  common  wild 
flower.  It  bears  its  flowers  in  long  spikes,  while  the  Verbena  is  a  cluster  flow- 
ered variety.  The  Vervain  was  called  holy  herb  ;  it  grew  plentifully  on  the 
Capitoline  Hill  at  Rome,  and  was  much  used  in  religious  festivals,  and  also  em- 
ployed as  a  symbol  in  making  treaties  of  peace. 

The  Druids,  of  Great  Britain,  held  it  in  high  esteem,  and  used  it  in  foretelling 
future  events,  and  in  casting  lots ;  but  for  these  purposes  the  plant  must  be 
gathered  "  when  the  daystar  rose  at  such  a  time  as  neither  the  sun  nor  the 
moon  should  be  above  the  earth  to  see  it,"  and  also  that  before  they  take  up  the 
herb  they  bestow  upon  the  ground  where  it  greweth  honey,  with  the  comb,  in 
token  of  satisfaction  and  amends  for  the  violence  done  in  depriving  her  of  so 
holy  an  herb." 

The  Vervain  is  said  to  grow  in  the  vicinity  of  villages  and  towns,  and  never 
in  the  wilds,  which  has  gained  for  it  the  name  of  "  Simple r's  Joy." 

The  Verbena  is  found  growing  wild  in  Kansas,  and  there  is  a  species  called 
Verbena  montane,  which  grows  in  our  western  territories,  but  its  flowers  are 
small  compared  to  those  we  cultivate. 

21ie  Petunia. 

Here  we  meet  some  very  charming  favorites.  The  common  single  Petunias 
will  grow  in  any  soil,  being  usually  quite  hardy.  The  large  double  varieties  are 
very  fragrant  and  frail,  and  though  easily  raised  for  cuttings  produce  few  if 
any  seeds. 

Start  cuttings  in  April  or  May,  and  plant  them  in  damp  sand,  keeping  it  moist 
all  the  time.  When  rooted  pot  in  rich  garden  loam  and  press  the  soil  carefully 
around  the  roots ;  keep  in  the  shade  until  the  roots  begin  to  grow,  then  give  it 
all  the  sunshine  you  can.  Pinch  off  the  flower  buds  during  the  summer,  to 
allow  the  plant  to  become  bushy,  and  do  not  give  too  much  water  to  make  the 
sprouts  spindle  out.  There  are  no  handsomer  house  plants  than  the  improved 
Double  and  Single  Petunias,  and  their  culture  is  very  simple.  Some  varieties 
will  train  easily,  and  require  a  frame  for  support.  The  Double  varieties  are 
blotched  and  striped  like  Pelargoniums,  or  Picotee  Pinks,  and  are  exceedingly 
beautiful  and  attractive  Among  the  finest  are : 


218  WINDOW   GARDENING. 

DOUBLE. 

John  Lyons,  very  large  size,  violet. 
Vick's  New  Fringed,  a  new  strain  with  fringed  or  frilled  edges,  various  coloi  B, 

long  tube. 

Queen  of  White,  pure  white,  too  good  for  bedding  out. 
B.  K.  Bliss,  white  blotched  with  violets. 
Dame  Blanche,  pure  white. 
Dexter,  crimson  and  white,  marbled. 
Edward  Beck,  very  large  blush  pink. 
Gov.  Geary,  white  blotched  with  crimson. 
Mrs.  Colt,  pure  white,  striped  and  spotted  with  violet. 
Magnet,  habit  compact,  growth  very  vigorous,  flower  white  blotched,   with 

purplish  crimson.     Measures  often  five  inches  in  diameter.     The  best  of  all 

the  doubles. 

THE  SINGLE  VARIETIES. 
Admiration,  white,  blotched  with  lilac. 
Ceres,  pure  white,  purple  throat. 
Enchantress,  white  carmine  edges. 
Gen.  Grant  white,  marked  with  fine  crimson  bars. 
Louisa,  crimson,  beautifully  striped  with  white. 
Maculata,  white  blotched  with  lilac. 
Triumph,  white  edged  with  rose,  purple  centre. 

The  Pyrethrum. 

This  is  a  species  of  Chamomi'le  which  also  bears  the  name  of  Fever  Few,  and 
is  of  the  same  order  as  the  Daisy  and  Chrysanthemum.  Its  delicate  green  foli- 
age and  pure  white  double  flowers,  make  it  a  very  beautiful  plant  for  house 
culture,  and  it  is  desirable  for  dressing  the  hair,  and  many  olher  purposes  of 
ornament.  It  is  very  hardy,  will  bear  a  severe  frost  without  injury,  and  will 
live  out  in  the  coldest  climates  if  protected  by  sods. 

It  is  propagated  by  cuttings  and  divisions  of  the  roots.  The  cuttings  strike 
with  great  ease  if  the  piece  is  kept  in  water  a  week;  the  roots  will  form  very 
quickly.  They  will  grow  in  any  soil,  and  prefer  a  shady  location,  where  they 
will  bloom  in  great  perfection.  Do  this  in  March  or  April. 

The  Pyrethrum  is  also  called  Mountain  Daisy,  because  it  is  a  native  of  high 
places  like  the  Caucasus  and  the  Ural  Mountains. 

An  enthusiastic  gardener  describes  the  best  of  the  named  varieties  as  extreme- 
ly beautiful;  " many  of  them  are  like  Pompone  Chrysanthemums;  others  like 
Anemone  Chrysanthemums;  others  like  Mangolds.  Their  colors  range  from 
purest  white  to  the  deepest  crimson  and  purple,  the  shades  of  crimson  being 
particularly  brilliant." 


CHLAJPTER    XXII. 

THE  MIGNONETTE.    How  TO  FORM  A  TREE.    CINERARIA.   WALL 
FLOWER.     STOCKGILLY. 

The  Mignonette,  or  Reseda  odorata,\s  very  desirable  for  winter  bloom  because 
its  perfume  is  so  delicious.  Linnaeus  compares  its  odors  to  those  of  Ambrosia, 
and  it  is  sweeter  and  more  penetrating  at  the  rising  and  setting  of  the  sun  than 
at  noonday. 

Its  floral  language  is,  "  Your  qualities  surpass  your  charms,"  for  its  flowers  are 
very  insignificant  when  compared  to  the  brilliant  colorings  of  many  others. 

For  blooming  in  the  house,  the  seeds  should  be  sown  in  August,  in  the  pots 
where  they  will  bloom ;  and  when  started,  pull  up  all  but  three  or  four  good 
strong  roots,  keep  in  a  shady  place,  and  pinch  off  the  top  shoots  to  keep  the 
plants  from  straggling;  give  liquid  manure  once  a  week,  and  by  November  you 
will  have  a  pot  full  of  branches  ;  then  let  the  buds  form  at  their  pleasure,  and  bo- 
fore  December  is  out,  the  flowers  will  be  in  great  profusion. 

For  soil  in  the  pots,  use  3  parts  loam,  1  part  dung,  and  1  part  leaf  mould. 
When  water  is  applied,  do  so  in  the  morning,  so  that  the  foliage  may  be  dry 
before  night. 

To  have  Mignonettes  the  year  round,  begin  sowing  as  early  as  February,  then 
again  in  April,  in  September  and  October.  Thin  out  the  plants  as  fast  as  they 
grow  up,  to  but  five  in  the  pot ;  shade  from  the  sun,  in  the  heat  of  the  day,  as 
otherwise  the  foliage  might  have  a  yellow  and  unsightly  appearance. 

For  training,  five  small  stakes  may  be  stuck  into  the  pot  at  equal  distances 
from  each  other,  and  tie  the  plant  thereto. 

In  thinning,  keep  the  largest  in  one  pot  and  the  smallest  in  others  so  as  to 
give  a  succession  of  bloom.  If  it  is  desired  to  cause  any  to  bloom  late,  pinch  off 
the  tops  of  a  few  as  soon  as  they  begin  to  flower ;  they  will  break  out  again  and 
bloom  three  weeks  or  a  month  later  than  others  of  the  same  sowing. 

In  boxes  they  are  very  pretty.  It  is  best  to  grow  them  in  pots  first  until  just 
ready  to  bloom,  and  then  transfer  them  to  the  box,  where  they  can  branch  out 
and  flower  for  a  long  time. 

The  Mignonette  is  a  native  of  Egypt  and  Barbary.  In  France  and  England  it 
is  much  cultivated  in  boxes  made  to  fit  into  windows  and  balconies. 

To  Form  a  Tree. 

This  is  an  interesting  operation,  and  one  particularly  agreeable  to  window  gar- 
deners, from  the  careful  superintendence  it  requires,  as  well  as  the  singularity, 


220 


WIND OW   GA RDEN1NG . 


beauty  and  fragrance  of  the  plant,  and  it  shows  so  conclusively  what  results  can 
be  obtained  from  close  pruning  and  attention. 

Some  persons  think  that  the  Tree  Mignonette  is  a  distinct  variety  from  the 
common  kind  grown  in  gardens;  but  it  is  not  so  ;  upon  the  process  of  formation 
alone  does  the  difference  rest.  Sow  the  seeds  as  directed  above.  The  soil  should 
be  rather  rich,  but  friable,  not  heavy.  When  the  plants  come  up,  thin  out  the 
weakest,  so  as  to  leave  only  one  strong  growing  plant  directly  in  the  centre  of 
the  pot. 

Push  a  stiff  piece  of  wire  down  by  the  side  of  the  plant,  and  when  it  is  two 
inches  high  commence  tying  it  loosely  with  a  worsted  thread  to  the  wire,  and 

keep  it  well  supported. 
Every  side  branch  that  ap- 
pears from  the  main  stem 
must  be  pinched  off;  but  the 
leaves  must  be  allowed  to 
remain  on  the  stem  as  their 
functions  are  needed  for  the 
health  and  support  of  the 
plant.  In  four  or  five 
months  turn  out  the  ball  of 
earth  to  see  if  it  requires  a 
larger  size ;  f>ut  do  not  give 
it  unless  the  roots  are  curled 
around  the  edges  of  the  ball. 
When  the  plant  is  a  foot 
or  more  in  height,  according 
to  the  fancy  of  the  cultivator, 
tne  s^e  sll°°t«  can  be  per 
mitted  to  grow,  but  they 
must  have  their  heads 

Fig.  74.-Tree  Mignionette.  pinched   off -Occasionally,     to 

force  them  to  form  a  bushy  top  of  ten  or  twelve  inches  in  diameter.  This 
will  be  accomplished  in  from  nine  to  twelve  months,  and  then  one  plant  will  be 
sufficient  to  perfume  a  large  room.  Every  year  it  should  be  repotted,  and  it 
will  bear  an  abundance  of  fragrant  flowers  for  many  seasons. 

The  Reseda  odorata,  or  Sweet  Mignonette,  is  our  most  popular  variety,  unless 
we  except 

The  Parsons  New  White  Mignonette,  which  is  white  also,  but  much   more 
vigorous.     The  flowers  are  larger,  but  some  do  not  consider  the  color  any  diffei 
eut  or  superior.     In  other  respects  it  is,  however,  an  improvement. 

The  Cineraria. 

This  plant  is  usually  grown  in  pots  or  boxes,  and  it  flowers  abundantly  during 
the  greater  part  of  the  winter  and  early  spring.  The  variety  of  its  colors,  the 


^i> 


WIND OW   GARD ENINQ . 


221 


beauty  of  the  leaves  of  some  of  the  plants,  and  the  spicy  fragrance  of  others, 
makes  it  suitable  for  the  smallest  collection  of  plants. 

It  requires  a  friable  loam,  and  does  not  need  the  sun  during  the  warmest  part 
of  the  day  in  the  summer. 

There  are  three  methods  of  increasing  this  pretty  plant :  by  seed,  which  ripen 
abundantly  in  this  country,  and  from  which  the  various  beautiful  hybrid  varie- 
ties recently  introduced  have  been  obtained  ;  by  cuttings,  and  by  divisions  of  the 
roots.  Seed  sown  in  sandy  soil  in  May,  will  make  tine  blossoming  plants  in 
January. 

Cuttings  strike  readily  in  damp  sand  or  water.  The  dwarf  varieties  are  quite 
an  improvement  upon  the  older  sorts. 

The  Wall  Flower. 

The  Wall  Flower  is  an  old  fashioned  flower,  not  much  cultivated  in  these  days 
of  novelties.  Yet  many  flowers,  much  less  worthy  of  admiration,  are  seen,  and 
the  double  varieties  are  particularly  attractive,  on  account  of  their  sweetness  and 
peculiar  colorings.  We  read  in  old  literature  of  "The  yellow  Wall  Flower 
stained  with  iron  brown,"  and  again 

"  The  rude  stone  fence  with  fragrant  Wall  flowers  gay, 

To  me  more  pleasure  yield 
Than  all  the  pomp  imperial  domes  survey." 

Tradition  associates  with  this  plant  one  of  her  wildest  fantasies : 
In  ancient  days  a  noble  castle  stood  amid  woods  and  wilds  near  the  Trent, 
and  a  fair  damsel  had  long  been  detained  a  prisoner  within  its  walls,  because  she 
had  given  her  young  love  to  the  heir  of  a  hostile  clan  ;  and  although  the  youth 
was  of  equal  birth,  and  renowned  for  feats  of  arms  and  strength,  the  deadly 
hatred  of  those  fierce  days  forbade  all  thoughts  of  their  marriage. 

Many  stratagems  did  the  youth  devise  to  obta  n  possession  of  his  love,  but  they 
had  all  failed.  At  length  a  serving  woman  came  to  his  aid,  and  it  was  arranged 
that  with  a  silken  ladder  she  should  descend  the  fearful  height  and  meet  her 
lover,  and  the  poetry  thus  describes  her  fate  : 

"Up  then  she  got  upon  a  wall, 
Attempted  down  to  slide  withal; 
But  the  silken  twist  untied, 
So  she  fell,  and  bruised,  she  died. 
Love  in  pity  to  the  deed, 
And  her  loving  luckless  speed, 
Turn'd  her  to  this  plant,  we  call 
Now,  the  Flower  of  the  Wall" 

Hence,  the  Wall  Flower  has  become  an  emblem  of  fidelity. 

The  ancient  English  dames  took  much  pleasure  in  cultivating  this  plant,  and 
in  wearing  its  blosi-oms,  so  that  the  title  of  "  Dames'  Violet  "  was  applied  to  it. 

The  blossom  is  cruciform,  having  in  its  natural  state  only  four  petals  ;  but  cul- 
tivation has  changed  the  stamens  into  petals,  as  is  often  the  case.  It  will  not 
bloom  until  the  second  year  from  the  seed,  but  if  potted  in  Septemb.r  will  bloom 


222  WINDOW  GARDENING. 

by  March  or  April.    Unless  the  soil  is  very  rich  the  double  flo-vers  will  become 
single. 

Cuttings  must  be  raised  in  sandy  loam,  and  then  transplanted  into  rich  soil,  or 
they  will  degenerate  from  the  parent  plant.  With  but  little  care  Wall  Flowerg 
will  live  for  many  years  and  blossom  profusely. 

Stocks. 

These  are  biennials,  and  blossom  in  the  early  spring  of  the  second  year  from 
seeds  sown  in  April. 

The  later  varieties  are  very  beautiful,  and  make  most  showy  and  fragrant  plants 
for  house  culture. 

The  varieties  most  suitable  for  winter  flowering  are  the  German  Brompton,  01 
Cocardeau ;  the  flowers  are  very  bushy  ;  the  latter  have  a  single  stem  and  flowei 
and  formed  in  the  shape  of  a  pyramid. 

These  stocks  are  in  the  richest  of  colors,  varying  from  scarlet,  crimson,  pink, 
purple,  lilac,  to  white  and  cream-color. 

The  roots  can  be  lifted  from  garden  borders  into  pots  or  boxes,  and  kept  in  the 
cellar  until  March,  when  they  can  be  brought  forward  to  the  sunlight,  and  will 
soon  be  covered  with  their  brilliant,  fragrant  flowers. 

If  the  seed  has  been  sown  in  spring  in  the  garden,  the  plants  can  grow  until 
autumn,  and  then  be  transferred  to  pots  for  indoor  culture,  and  flowering  during 
the  winter. 

If  sown  in  July  and  August,  and  grown  in  pots,  they  will  bloom  the  follow- 
ing spring  and  summer. 

The  culture  of  Stocks  for  the  window  garden  is  destined  to  make  them  one  of 
the  most  popular  fancies  of  the  amateur.  Their  bloom  makes  a  most  desirable 
display. 


CBLAJPTER    XXIII. 

THE    CARNATION. 

The  Monthly  Carnations  are  the  species  most  in  request  for  window  gardens, 
as  they  bloom  several  times  a  year,  though  scarcely  every  month,  excepting  in 
California.  There  the  soil  and  climate  is  peculiarly  adapted  to  their  needs,  is 
exactly  formed  for  their  culture,  and  the  flowers  bloom  in  the  greatest  profu- 
sion, of  the  largest  size,  and  in  the  most  perfect  colorings. 

Many  of  the  best  species  are  brought  from  Italy  and  Germany,  and  the  im- 
ported seeds  come  from  Erfurt,  and  some  parts  of  Thuringia,  where  the  cul- 
ture of  the  Carnation  is  a  specialite. 

There  are  three  kinds  of  Carnations — Flakes,  Bizarres  and  Picotees. 

The  Flakes  have  only  one  color  disposed  in  broad  stripes  on  a  pure  white  or 
yellow  ground,  and  it  extends  through  each  petal  from  its  margin  to  the  base. 

The  Picotees,  from  the  French  picoti,  was  formerly  spotted  with  purple,  scar- 
let or  crimson  spots  on  a  yellow  or  white  ground,  but  the  florists  have  changed 
its  character,  and  it  is  no  longer  a  spotted  Carnation,  but  one  with  all  the  color 
confined  to  a  border  around  each  petal. 

The  Bizarres  have  two  or  more  colors  running  from  the  margin  to  the  base 
of  the  petal,  in  irregular  stripes  of  purple,  scarlet,  cherry,  pink  or  lilac,  on  a 
white  or  yellow  ground. 

Each  of  these  classes  have  passed  through  transformations,  and  there  seems 
hardly  any  limit  to  the  rare  shadings,  veinings  and  marblings  which  the  flower 
has  assumed.  A  good,  rich  compost  is  indispensable  to  the  production  of  fine 
flowers ;  there  is  scarcely  any  plant  to  which  a  congenial  soil  is  of  so  much  im- 
portance. It  does  not  like  a  wet  soil,  but  one  that  is  rich  in  leaf  mould  and 
perfectly  decomposed  cow  or  horse  manure.  Many  years  ago  the  weavers  in 
various  counties  of  England  and  Scotland  were  celebrated  for  their  Carnations, 
and  there  were  various  receipts  for  composts  which  were  jealously  kept  from 
the  public.  One  of  these  receipts  ran  thus  :  "  One  half  one  year  old  horse 
manure,  one-sixth  good  garden  soil,  one-sixth  leaf  mould,  and  one-sixth  coarse 
sand.  Mix  together,  and  let  it  be  exposed  to  the  frosts  all  winter,  turning  it 
as  often  as  possible." 

Carnations  are  propagated  by  seeds,  layers  and  cuttings. 

The  seeds  should  be  sown  in  April  or  May,  in  sandy  soil,  under  glass,  and 
transplanted  when  two  inches  high. 

Layering  is  best  done  in  July  or  August.  Take  a  fresh,  young  shoot,  strong 
and  vigorous,  which  should  be  four  or  five  joints  in  length ;  strip  off  all  the 


224  WINDOW   GARDENING. 

leaves  nearest  the  root,  leaving  only  those  on  the  two  or  three  upper  joints. 
Stir  up  the  soil  about  an  inch,  and  fill  up  the  pot  with  light,  rich  soil, 
then  take  the  shoot  in  the  finger  and  thumb  of  the  left  hand,  and  bend  it  up- 
wards, inserting  a  sharp  knife  below  the  third  joint  from  the  top;  cut  upwards 
through  the  centre  of  that  joint  to  about  half  or  three-quarters  an  inch  above 
it ;  then  cut  off  the  tongue  directly  under  the  joint,  taking  care  not  to  cut  it,  as 
it  will  not  make  roots  so  well;  the  future  roots  will  spring  from  this  joint; 
any  injury  will  prevent  their  formation.  The  incised  shoot  must  then  be  gently 
pressed  into  the  soil,  taking  great  care  not  to  break  or  crack  it  at  the  joint. 

As  there  is  considerable  danger  of  breaking  the  shoots  on  account  of  their 
brittleness,  it  is  well  to  place  the  plants  in  the  hot  sun,  and  withhold  water; 
this  will  cause  them  to  wilt,  and  become  more  limber;  and  as  soon  as  the  layer 
is  well  fastened  into  the  ground  by  a  thick  hairpin,  leave  the  point  of  the 
shoot  well  exposed.  The  plant  must  be  well  watered  and  set  in  the  shade. 

Not  more  than  a  quarter  of  an  inch  of  soil  should  be  covered  over  the  joint; 
and  none  of  the  leaves  should  be  covered,  because  they  will  decay  and  commu- 
nicate it  to  the  shoot,  which  will  "  damp  off,"  as  the  gardeners  term  it. 

Tf  the  plants  are  kept  moist  and  shaded  from  the  noonday  sun,  they  will  be 
rooted  in  three  or  four  weeks.  Then  they  can  be  cut  off  from  the  parent  plant, 
with  about  half  an  inch  of  the  stem  which  connects  them  to  it,  and  planted  in 
rich  soil. 

Carnations  are  more  hardy  than  many  greenhouse  plants,  and  require  much 
air,  and  a  cool  atmosphere  until  the  flower  buds  begin  to  form.  The  flower-pod 
or  calyx,  when  nearly  its  full  size,  is  apt  to  burst,  letting  out  the  petals  at  one 
side,  which  presents  a  loose,  ragged  appearance,  and  spoils  the  circular  symme- 
try of  the  flower. 

This  must  be  prevented  by  tying  the  calyx  around  with  a  bit  of  green  wool  or 
thread.  Some  make  a  ring  from  a  piece  of  cardboard,  and  slip  it  over  the  bud, 
so  it  will  keep  the  petals  in  regular  form  when  the  calyx  bursts.  Propagation 
by  cuttings  is  more  difficult  than  by  layer,  as  they  do  not  strike  well  without 
artificial  heat.  Tf  soaked  in  water  for  twenty-four  hours,  they  will  root  more 
quickly.  A  celebrated  Carnation  grower  states  that  the  chance  of  obtaining  a 
handsome  Carnation  from  seed  is  as  one  to  a  hundred. 

Manure  water  will  often  force  flowers  upon  barren  plants. 

LIST   OP   VARIETIES   OP   CARNATIONS     FOR     PARLOR   OR   GREENHOUSE    CULTITR1 

Remontant  or  Monthly  Carnations. 

Astoria,  white  ground,  with  yellow,  red  and  scarlet  colors. 
Botearis,  blush  mottled  purple,  clove  scented. 
Brightness,  large  bright  scarlet,  very  double,  clove  fragrance. 
Canary,  yellow  ground,  slightly  tinged  rose. 
Darkness,  very  dark  crimson. 
Defiance,  deep  crimson,  large  and  fine. 


WINDOW  GARDENING.  225 

Fortunii,  crimson. 

Flatbush,  snowy  white,  deeply  fringed,  very  strong  in  habit,  and  profuse 
bloomer. 

Little  Beauty,  carmine  edge,  yellow  ground. 

S'>lferino,  dark  violet  purple,  fragrant. 

Unique,  pure  white,  fine  form. 

Peerlesss,  pure  white,  shaded  with  blush,  large  size  flower,  compact,  brush/ 
habit,  and  immense  bloomer. 

Gen.  Grant,  pure  white,  blooming  in  clusters. 

De  Fontana,  Orange,  shaded  purple. 

Ma  Glorie,  red  and  yellow,  very  showy  and  attractive. 

Best  Winter  Flowering  Carnations. 

President  De  Graw,  pure  white,  shaded  with  blush,  very  large,  deeply 
fringed. 

La  Purite,  rosy  pink,  profuse  bloomer,  one  of  the  best  for  winter  flowering. 

Variegated  La  Purite,  carmine,  striped  with  black. 

Vaillante,  richest  scarlet,  deeply  fringed,  very  fragrant,  dwarf  in  habit,  and 
blooms  profusely. 

Edwardsii,  pure  white,  large  and  perfect  flower. 

Donaldi's  Pride,  white,  tipped  with  deep  rose. 

15 


CHAPTER    XXIV. 

ALPINE  PLANTS. 

Among  the  great  number  of  plants,  which  are  acceptable  for  Window  Garden- 
ing, we  rind  the  Alpine  plant  is  one  of  the  least  cultivated  for  this  purpose. 
On  account  of  the  interesting  shape  of  most  of  these  plants  and  the  tiny  spaw 
required  for  them  by  their  pygmy  appearance,  they  ought  to  take  the  main 
part  of  the  so  said  Lilliput  Gardening.  How  is  it,  that  even  our  nurserymen 
lack  a  good  deal  of  the  true  Alpine  plants  in  their  collection  of  plants,  and 
are  in  some  ways  to  blame  for  the  want  of  them  amongst  our  decorated  win- 
dows? The  answer  is  easily  found.  It  is  the  fault  of  the  present  fashion. 
Gardeners  supply  their  customers  rather  with  Coleus,  Verbenas,  Pelargoniums, 
Heliotropes  and  other  bedding  plants,  than  with  the  exquisite  fine  Alpine  plants, 
which,  of  course,  cannot  be  propagated  in  so  short  a  time  as  common  bedding 
plants.  The  public  is  mostly  satisfied  with  the  latter  plants,  believing  that  the 
culture  of  Alpine  plants  is  one  of  great  difficulty. 

Most  of  all  who  have  seen  these  beautiful,  modest  plants,  with  their  vividness 
of  color,  displayed  in  endless  variety  in  perfect  loveliness  on  the  fringes 
of  the  glaciers,  near  steep  crevices  or  ghastly  slopes,  or  in  elevated  plains 
and  pastures,  in  Switzerland,  Tyrol  and  Savoy,  have  learned  to  love  and 
cherish  the  sweet  flowers,  and  would  like  to  grow  them  in  their  own  home.  For- 
merly, when  cultivation  of  Alpine  plants  was  accomplished  only  in  botanical 
gardens,  many  difficulties  arose;  but  now,  after  much  patience,  experience  and 
experiments,  made  with  all  kinds  of  these  plants,  the  general  error,  that  the 
true  Alpine  plants  only  grow  on  high  mountains  in  a  cool  temperature,  has  thus 
been  dispelled.  It  is  a  fact,  that  many  Alpine  plants  which  are  found  plenti- 
fully on  elevated  plains  or  near  glaciers,  do  often  grow  and  flower  in  valleys  or 
lowland  regions.  Such  are,  for  instance  :  Gentiana  bavarica  and  verna,  Dryas 
octopetala,  Mcehringia  muscosa,  Silene  acaulis,  Soldanella  alpinay  and  several 
various  kinds  of  Saxifraga.  Some  again,  found  near  slopes  or  crevices,  grow 
well  in  pots.  Such  are  :  Gnaphaliumleontopodium,  (Leontvpodium  Alpinum), 
various  kinds  of  Primulas,  Primula  Cortusoides  and  Acaulis,  Aster  Alpinus, 
Ramondia  Pyrenaica,  all  Alpine.  Sedum  and  Sempervivum,  Saxifraga  umbrosa, 
Pyramidalis.  Others,  which  are  met  within  sight  of  or  among  fields  of  snow, 
or  in  places  beyond  our  reach,  are  very  difficult  to  cultivate,  and  therefore  not 
fit  for  window  decoration.  We  mention  especially  several  kinds  of  Saxifragen; 
some  Androsacen,  Draba  frigida  Silene  glacialis,  Dinnthus  glacial-is,  Ran- 
nunculus  glacialis,  and  others.  Of  Alpine,  plants,  can  be  used  those  for  Win* 


WINDOW   GARDENING. 


227 


dow  Gardening,  which  bear  well  a  hot  summer.  Of  course,  we  need  shady 
places  for  most  of  them.  On  the  high  mountains  of  the  Alps,  where  in  summer 
the  temperature  is  much  lowered  at  night,  the  plants  like  full  light  to  spread 
forth  the  brilliancy  of  their  colors.  To  protect  now,  by  cultivating  Alpine 
plants  of  durability,  the  same  against  high  temperature  during  our  long  and 
hot  summer,  we  recommend  the  following  arrangement  and  treatment: 


Have  a  flat  box  made  about  eight  inches  high,  and  wide  enough  as  to  be  easily 
placed  into  the  window  casing.  Cover  the  box,  which  is  best  made  of  zinc,  at 
the  bottom  with  sand  about  an  inch  in  depth,  then  arrange  the  pots  in  it  accord- 
ing to  their  size.  Give  to  plants  of  a  tall  growth  the  centre,  and  surround  them 
by  the  smaller  ones.  Then  rill  up  the  spaces  between  each  pot  with  a  compost 


228 


WINDOW  GARDENING 


of  coarse  sand,  small  stones  or  broken  bricks,  and  some  charcoal ;  water  this 
mixture  well  and  cover  it  lightly  with  moss.  By  such  management  the  plants 
in  pots  will  have  a  cool  moist  stand,  which  is  just  required  for  Alpine  plants. 
The  soil  for  planting  Alpine  plants  has  to  consist  of  a  compost  of  leaf  mould, 
rich  loams,  some  peat,  sharp  sand  and  a  few  pieces  of  broken  bricks ;  for  in- 


stance, t>r  Saxifragen,  Sedum  and  Sempervium.  Another  compost  has  one- 
half  of  good  rich  loams,  mixed  up  with  one-half  of  leaf  mould,  a  little  sharp 
sand  and  charcoal.  He,  who  has  much  peat  on  hand,  mix  it  up  with  coarse 
sand  and  good  old  manure.  Be  careful  in  watering  the  plants  ;  do  not  give  too 
much  or  too  little  water,  but  a  sufficient  moisture,  protect  the  plants  against  the 


WINDOW   GARDENING  229 

hot  midday  sun,  keep  the  leaves  clean,  do  not  allow  any  worms  to  hurt  the 
plants,  keep  off'  the  dust  from  the  leaves  with  a  sponge  or  syringe,  and  in  accept- 
ing these  prescriptions  you  will  enjoy  an  excellent  growth  and  good  health  of 
your  Alpine  plants. 

The  following  list  contains  only  such  Alpine  plants  which  are  adapted  for 
Window  Gardening  and  will  stand  a  hot  summer.  These  plants  can  be  brought 
through  the  winter  season  in  an  unheated  room  or  cellar,  leaving  them  in  the 
same  boxes  and  keeping  them  moderately  moist.  These  fine  boxes  may  stand 
also  in  the  yard  or  garden,  but  must  be  lightly  covered,  when  frosts  begin,  with 
dry  leaves  or  a  little  mat,  made  of  straw,  which  is  placed  six  inches  above  the 
box.  The  plants  will  have,  by  following  this  rule,  protection  and  cleanliness, 
and  will  pass  the  winter  season  well  enough  to  show  when  brought  out  again  in 
March,  the  first  lovely  spring  blossoms. 

List 

Of  Alpine  Plants  for  Window  Gardening.  Only  such  species,  which  are  easily 
cultivated  and  to  be  had  in  American  nurseries,  or  raised  by  seeds  as  other 
herbaceous  plants : 

1.  Achillea   tomentosa,  with  yellow  flowers  in  spring,  and  downy  leaves,  of  a 
dwarfish  growth. 

2.  Adonis  vernalis,  with  large  yellow  flowers  in  spring,  on  the  stalks,  about 
ten  inches  high,  useful  for  the  centre  of  a  group. 

3.  Alyssum  saxatile  compactum,  with  fine  yellow  flowers  in  spring,  of  a  dwarf 
habit  and  nice  appearance. 

4.  Anemone  nemorosa,  with  pair  rosy  flowers. 

5.  Anemone  angelosa  (Hepatica"),  with  beautiful  blue  flowers,  which  appear 
very  early  in  spring. 

6.  Anemone  hepatica  (Hepatica  triloba),  with  red,  blue   and  white  flowers, 
and  varieties  with  double  flowers,  and  of  a  dwarf  habit. 

7.  Anemone  ranunculoides,  the  golden  yellow  wood  Anemone,  height,  five  or 
six  inches. 

8.  Antennaria  tomentosa,  a  very  dwarfish  silvery  leaved  plant ;  a  native  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains. 

9.  Arabis  albida  fol.  variegata,' &  native  of  the  mountains  of  Greece,  and  of  a 
dwarf  habit;  flowers  are  white  and  blue,  leaves  beautifully  variegated. 

10.  Armeria  vulgaris,  a  very  pretty  little  plant,  with  soft  lilac  or  white  Hov- 
ers springing  from  dense  cushions  of  grasslike  leaves. 

11.  Aster  alpina,    the  blue  daisy  of  the  Alps,  of  dwarf  habit  and  large  pale 
blue  flowers  with  a  deep  yellow  eye. 

12.  Bellis  perennis,  fl.  pi.,  with  white  and  red  flowers. 

13.  Calandrinia umbellata,  a  native  of  Chili,  of  a  dwarf  habit,  with  crimson 
flowers  like  the  Portulacca. 

14.  Campanula  Garganica,  a  fine  dwarf  Harebell,  with  kidney  shaped  downy 
leaves  and  bluish  purple  flowers. 


230  WINDOW   GARDENING. 

15.  Campanula  pulla  (pusilla),  with  dark  blue  or  white  flowers;  plants  of  a 
diminutive  habit,  a  very  fine  little  plant. 

16.  Campanula  Rainerct,&  very  dwarf  species  with  large  dark  blue  flowers  ; 
a  native  of  the  Italian  Mountains. 

17.  Cerastium  tomentosum,  a  very  fine  little  creeping  plant  with  silver  white 
leaves  and  star  like  white  flowers,  and  of  easy  propagation  and  cultivation. 

18.  Dianthus Chinensis  nanafl.  pi.,  the  dwarf  China  pink  in  various  colors. 

19.  Dry  as  octopetala,  a  native  of  European  and  American  mountains,  with 
creeping  stems  and  large  creamy  white  flowers. 

20.  Erinus   alpinus,  a   very   neat   and   distinct   little  plant  of  the  Alpine, 
Tyrolean  and  Pyrenaen  mountains,  with  violet  purple  flowers,  in  short  pubescent 
racemes  ;  of  a  very  dwarfish  habit. 

21.  Gentiana  acaulis  (Gentiana  verna),  species  of  a  dwarf  habit  and  very 
large  beautiful  blue  flowers. 

22.  Gypsopliila  saxifraga,  plant  of  dwarf,  mosslike  habit,  with  fine  white 
flowers. 

23.  Helianthemum  vulgare,  the  little  sunrose  with  single  and  double  flowers 
of  white,  yellow  and  red  colors  ;  it  is  easy  to  propagate  by  seed. 

24.  Holeia  japonica,  foL  var.,  a  fine  plant,  with   beautiful  variegated  leaves 
and  with  spikes  of  very  fine  white  flowers. 

25.  Iberis  sempervirens,  a  very   fine  little  plant,  with  dark  green  leaves  and 
fine  large  white  flowers. 

26.  Leontopodium  alpinum   (GnapJialium  Leontopodium),  the  "  Edleweiss," 
translated   "Nobly  white,"  of  the  Tyrolian  or  Switzer  Alps;  a  very  pretty 
plant  with  downy  leaves  and  beautiful  white  leaflets  around  the  pale  yellowish 
flower. 

27.  Lotus  corniculatus,  an  interesting  plant  with  yellow  flowers,  and  of  a 
creeping  habit. 

28.  Lychnis  Haageana,  has  large  flowers  of  a  splendid  scarlet  or  crimson,  and 
stems  from  eight  to  ten  inches  high. 

29.  Myosotis  alpestris,  the  Alpine  Forget-Me-Not,  with  beautiful  blue  flowers; 
propagated  from  seed. 

30.  Myosotis  Azorica,  a  native  of  the  Azorean  Islands,  of  dwarf  habit,  with 
beautiful  dark  flowers. 

31.  Myosotis  palustris,  the  common  Forget-Me-Not  with  pale  blue  flowers. 

32.  Nirembergia  rivularisy  a  very  beautiful  little  plant  with  the  habit  of  a 
Daisy  and  with  large  cuplike  flowers  of  a  creamy  white  tint. 

33.  (Enothera  pumila,  a  very  dwarf  species  from  the  Rocky  Mountains,  with 
small  yellow  flowers. 

,  34.  JEnothera  taraxacifolia,  a  native  of  Chili,  and  profuse  flowering ;  flowers 
are  very  large  white  with  a  rosy  tint. 

35.  Omplialodes  verna,the  large  creeping  Forget-Me-Not  with  beautiful  blue 
flowers. 

36    Phlox  setacta  (Phlox  subulata),  the  moss  pink  with  beautiful  pmk,  01 


WINDOW   GARDENING.  231 

seldom  with   white  flowers;    plant  of  a  creeping  habit,  but  of  profusion  of 
spring  flowers. 

37.  Phlox  reptans  (Phlox  repens  verna"),  another  creeping  American  species, 
with  very  fine  flowers  of  a  pink  or  mauve  color. 

38.  Plumbago  Larpentce,  a  very  dwarf,  shrubby-like  plant,  with  slender  wiry 
branches,  covered  with  light  green  leaves,  and  in  September  with  close  trusses 
of  fine  blue  flowers  at  the  ends  of  the  stems. 

39.  Primula  cortusoides.    This  species  is  most  fit  for  Window  Gardening  in 
regard  of  its  easy  culture;  it  is  a  native  of  Siberia,  and  bears  early  in  spring 
fine  pink  flowers. 

40.  Primula  acaulis  fl.  pi.,  of  very  dwarfish  habit,  and  double  flowers  of 
white  pale  lilac,  red,  yellow  and  purple  double  colors ;  shape  like  small  roses. 

41.  Pysidansthera  barbulata,  a  very  interesting  American  plant,  growing  in 
the  pine  barrens  of  New  Jersey  and  Carolina,  of  a  moss-like  habit,  with  beauti. 
ful  white  flowers,  which  are  in  not  opened  buds  of  a  fine  rosy  tint;  a  very 
pretty  species  ;  requires  sandy  peat  soil. 

42.  Ramondia  pyrenaica,  also  a  very  distinct   and  interesting  form ;  very 
dwarf  in  habit ;  leaves  stand  in  rosettes  and  close  on  the  ground ;  the  large 
flowers  on  stems  of  five  or  six  inches  in  length,  are  of  a  purple  violet,  with 
orange  yellow  centre ;  native  of  the  Pyrenees. 

43.  Sanguinaria  canadensis,  the  Blood  Root,  an  interesting  American  plant 
of  dwarf  habit,  and  with  white  flowers  early  in  spring. 

44.  Saxifraga   aizoon,  a    native  of  high  European  and  American  mountains, 
with  leaves  standing  like  silvery  rosettes ;  a  very  showy  little  plant. 

45.  Saxifraga  cotyledon,  habit  like  silvery  rosettes,  with  elegant  pyramids 
of  white  flowers. 

46.  Saxifraga  hypnoides,  the  mossy  sasifraga  forms,  mossy  tufts  of  the  deep- 
est green,  with  small  white  flowers. 

47.  Saxifraga  umbrosa,  a  very  interesting  species,  with  broad  dark  green 
leaves  and  red  spotted  white  flowers. 

48.  Saxifraga  sarmentosa  and  Saxifraga  Sieboldii  fol.  variegata,  both  species 
very  well  known,  are  suitable  for  Alpine  groups. 

49.  Sedum  acre  and  hexangulare,  the  common  stonecrop  with  yellow  flowers. 

50.  Sedum  dasyphyllum,     one  of  the  most  interesting  Alpine  plants  of  a 
glaucous  color,  with  creamy  white  flowers. 

51.  Sedum  Sieboldii  fol.  var.t  an  elegant  well  known  plant,  with  light  pink 
flowers  in  summer  and  fall. 

52.  Sedum  carneum  variegatum  ;  species  with  fine  variegated  leaves. 

53.  Sempervivum  arachnoideum,  the  cobweb  houseleek  from   the  Alps  and 
Pyrenees,  with  fleshy  leaves  in  tiny  rosettes,  covered  at  the  top  with  a  white 
down-like  spider  web. 

54.  Sempervivum  montanum;  the  leaves  are  very  regularly  arranged  in  fine 
li^at  green  rosettes. 


232  WINDOW   GARDENING. 

55.  Sempervivum Calif ornicum,  a  larger  species;  leaves  are  of  a  dark  green 
color,  with  reddish  margin  and  dark  points. 

56.  Silene  alpestris,  a  very  fine  plant  of  dwarf  habit  and  pure  white  flowers. 

57.  Silene  maritimafl.  pi.    The  leaves  of  this  species  are  of  a  glancous  color, 
and  the  flowers  are  like  small  snowballs. 

58.  Soldanella  alpina,  a  lovely  little  plant  of  an  interesting  appearance,  with 
leathery,   shining,   roundish    leaves   and    beautiful  blue  bell-shaped,   fringed 
flowers. 

59.  Thymwzerpillifoliumfol.var.,  the  variegated  Thyme. 

60.  Viola  cornusa,  the  Pyrenean  Violets  with  very  large  blue  and  white  flow- 
ers which  appear  numerously  during  the  summer  season. 

Finally,  we  observe,  that  in  a  collection  like  the  preceding  one,  many  plants 
could  be  added,  which  would  match  well  with  the  Habitus  of  Alpine  plants  but 
which  would  anyhow  require  another  treatment ;  for  instance,  a  warmer  place 
for  the  winter  season,  while  others  are  in  a  resting  state  during  the  summer. 

Such  are:  Cyclamen  Coum,  Pcrsicum,  repandum,  vernum,Europaeum,  hcde- 
raefolium;  Eclieveria  secunda,  glaucovirens,  gibbifloraj  Linaria  cymbalaria; 
Spigelia  Marylandica ;  Scilla  Sybirica,  amoena,  praecox;  Leucojum  vernum ; 
various  kinds  of  Crocus  and  Snowdrops;  Iris  pumila;  Sibthorpia  Europcea; 
Portulaccaflorepleno;  dwarf  kinds  of  Mesembrianthemum,  Saponariaocymoides; 
Sanvitalia  procumbens  flore  pleno;  Nycta  vine  capensis;  Sedum  caeruleum; 
Grammantlies  Gentianoides,  lonopsidium  acaule,  and  various  kinds  of  Nemophila 


CHAPTER 

MISCELLANEOUS  PLANTS. 

The  Azalea. 

This  has  of  late  years  become  a  popular  window  plant,  and  most  justly,  too, 
for  with  their  profuse  masses  of  flowers  they  make  every  window  or  balcony  a 
bower  of  bloom. 

The  plants  should  have  a  light  dry  soil,  of  leaf  mould  and  loam.  The  best 
for  this  purpose  is  a  mixture  two  parts  loam,  rich  vegetable  matter ;  two  parts 
rotten  peat  from  the  swamp,  and  one  part  sand,  and  be  sparingly  watered — yet 
the  roots  must  never  become  dry.  They  need  a  temperature  of  65°  by  day,  and 
at  night  coolness  of  40°  to  45°,  for  rest. 

While  dormant  they  need  shade  and  but  little  water,  but  when  the  flower 
bads  are  swelling,  they  desire  more.  It  is  a  shrub  that  needs  little  pruning, 
only  enough  to  keep  in  good  form. 

The  usual  months  for' blooming  are  April  and  May,  but  a  succession  of  bloom 
can  be  kept  up  from  February  to  May,  by  storing  in  the  cellar  the  previous 
winter,  in  a  cool  place,  dormant  plants  of  the  chosen  varieties,  then  bringing 
them  one  by  one  to  the  window,  where  they  are  hastened  into  bloom.  When 
done  blooming,  take  them  away,  and  fill  their  places  with  new  ones. 

Ordinarily,  after  Azaleas  have  done  blooming,  it  is  best  to  set  the  plants  in  the 
shade  out  of  doors  until  September.  If  desired  to  propagate  new  plants,  tako 
cuttings  in  May,  in  moist  sand  under  glass ;  but  since  so  good  plants  are  pur-' 
chased  at  so  cheap  prices  at  the  florists,  propagation  for  window  purpose  only  is 
not  worth  the  trouble. 

Most  of  the  varieties  brought  to  the  window  will  bloom  for  three  weeks ;  yet 
some  will  last  six  weeks ;  by  bringing  up  new  plants  successively,  the  blooming  sea- 
son, may  be  extended  several  months.  The  following  is  a  select  list  of  those 
most  suitable  for  window  purposes.  Those  with  a  star  are  the  most  desirable 
of  the  collection : 

Amoena,  yery  early. 

Amarantina,  rosy  purple. 

Belle  Gantoire,  rose  and  striped  with  white. 

* Charles  Quint,  rose. 

Criterion,  light  salmon,  edged  with  white,  upper  petals  spotted  with  crimson. 

Delicata,  rose. 

Exquisita,  violet  pink,  edged  with  white. 


234  WINDOW   GARDENING. 

Indica  alba,  white. 

*  Fielden,  white ;  very  early. 

*  Minerva,  scarlet ;  profuse. 

Modele  de  Marque,  splendid  form  ;  rose. 
Grande  Dutchesse  de  Bode. 
Iveryana,  white,  striped  with  rose. 
Perfection,  rose;  good  form. 
Vittata  crispiflora. 
Vittata,  variegated. 

*  Punctata,  splendid,  variegated. 

*  Punctata  omnicolor,  early  bloomer. 

?,    *  Narcissiflora  plena,  six  weeks  in  bloom. 

President,  scarlet. 

The  Daphne. 

Of  all  woody  plants  that  are  suitable  for  parlor  culture,  the  Daphne,  especially 
Daphne  odorata,  deserves  the  first  mention,  for  it  flourishes  under  the  most 
adverse  circumstances ;  patiently  putting  forth  group  after  group  of  its  dark 
glossy  evergreen  leaves,  each  group  through  the  winter  months  wearing  right 
royally  its  cluster  of  pearly  blossoms,  whose  delicate  throats  constantly  distil  a 
most  delicious  fragrance. 

In  foliage  this  shrub  greatly  resembles  the  laurel,  and  hence  bears  the  name 
of  that  beautiful  maiden  who  being  beloved  by  Apollo,  but  not  favoring  his  suit, 
besought  the  gods  for  aid  in  escaping  him,  and  in  answer  to  her  prayers  was 
changed  into  a  laurel-tree. 

Though  the  Daphne  is  capable  of  enduring  heat  and  dry  ness,  it  grows  most 
luxuriantly  in  a  cool,  moist  atmosphere ;  and  it  should  be  frequently  syringed 
with  tepid  water,  its  leaves  kept  clean  with  water  by  washing  them  often  with  a  soft 
sponge.  Give  it  a  soil  of  garden  earth  mixed  loosely  with  a  little  vegetable  mould  or 
stable  refuse  and  a  small  quantity  of  sand.  In  May  prune  it  closely  to  make  it  grow 
tall  and  symmetrical;  at  the  same  time  repot  it,  and  then  keep  the  plant  in  the 
shade  with  slight  watering  till  September;  then  give  it  sunshine  and  water 
freely.  In  early  October  take  it  to  the  parlor.  Of  the  prunings  make  new 
plants  by  immersing  the  stems  in  a  bottle  of  water  and  keeping  the  bottle  in  the 
sunlight  till  it  is  filled  with  white  fibrous  roots;  these  roots  are  very  tender,  and 
when  they  are  placed  in  soil  care  must  be  taken  not  to  injure  them.  The  young 
plant  must  be  kept  under  a  bell-glass  or  an  inverted  tumbler  for  a  fortnight, 
with  a  scanty  sprinkling  of  tepid  water  every  morning.  It  should  have  the  sun 
three  hours,  at  least,  each  day;  but  make  the  air  of  the  room  moist  and  lot  it 
not  rise  above  58°  by  day  or  45°  by  night,  if  you  would  promote  its  rapid  and 
healthy  growth.  It  blooms  almost  constantly  from  December  to  the  last  of 
March. 

The  Abutilon. 

A  beautiful  parlor  tree  is  the  Abutilon,  with  its  maple-like  foliage,  and  its  bell 
flowers  of  gold  and  crimson.  It  needs  a  light  sandy  loam,  for  if  the  soil  is  too 


WINDOW  GARDENING  235 

rich  it  will  grow  too  tall  to  form  a  handsome  shaped  tree.  Ordinary  garden 
soil  loosened  with  sand  will  answer.  If  the  air  of  the  room  it  occupies  is  too 
close  and  hot,  it  will  not  bloom,  so  give  it  air  frequently,  shielding  it  from 
draughts  as  you  would  a  geranium,  and  water  it  well. 

It  grows  easily  from  cuttings ;  prune  in  spring,  and  root  the  best  of  these 
prunings  in  wet  sand  to  get  new  plants. 

Abutilon  striatum  is  hardly  ever  out  of  flower;  its  bells  are  of  a  golden 
yellow,  veined  with  brown,  and  they  are  very  graceful  and  lovely. 

Abutilon  venosa  has  larger  flowers,  with  deep  red  veins,  and  is  very  hand- 
some. 

A  Marmaratum  is  a  charming  hybrid,  blossoming  all  the  year,  and  producing 
white  flowers,  marbled  and  veined  with  rose. 

A  Mesopotanicum  is  a  species  which  differs  in  the  shape  of  both  flowers  and 
leaves.  The  calyx  being  scarlet,  with  golden  yellow  petals,  the  flowers  beauti- 
fully marked;  they  hang  in  regular  rows  down  the  flexible  branches,  and  are 
very  valuable  for  cut  flowers. 

A  Thompsonii  is  another  distinct  variety  with  variegated  leaves,  its  leaves 
being  mosaiced  with  yellow. 

A  Santana  is  a  new  plant  with  flower  bells  of  a  much  larger  size,  and  of  dark 
brownish  crimsom,  veined  with  orange  color;  it  is  the  darkest  sort  cultivated. 

A  album  is  pure  white,  and  very  much  admired. 

The  Orange. 

Small  orange  trees  are  very  desirable  window  plants,  on  account  of  their  ex- 
quisitely fragrant  flowers,  and  beautiful  evergreen  foliage  which  contrasts  finely 
with  other  plants.  The  prettiest  for  house  culture  are  the  dwarf  varieties,  and 
the  dwarf  Mandarin  or  China  orange  bears  excellent  fruit.  The  dwarf  Otaheite 
is  a  more  common  kind,  but  not  as  suitable ;  for  neither  its  flowers  nor  fruit  equal 
those  of  the  Mandarin. 

Early  in  the  eighteenth  century,  orange  trees  were  quite  the  fashion  for  house 
culture,  and  although  the  fashion  has  passed  away,  there  are  few  plants  that  still 
combine  so  much  perfection  in  foliage,  fruit  and  flower. 

Oranges  are  usually  raised  from  seed,  and  in  a  year  or  two,  grafted  from  a  fine 
variety.  Seeds  sprout  readily  in  any  light  loam,  but  the  orange  blooms  the 
finest  in  good  rich  soil,  and  requires  liquid  manure  once  in  a  fortnight  or  even 
oftener.  The  foliage  is  handsomer,  if  the  pot  stands  a  little  away  from  the  full 
noonday  sun. 

The  Lemon. 

The  Lemon  belongs  to  the  same  genus  as  the  Orange  viz.:  the  Citrus,  to  which 
also  belong  limes,  shaddocks  and  citrons;  all  the  species  are  characterized  by 
fragrant  flowers,  glossy  evergreen  leaves,  and  delicious  fruits. 

The  golden  apples  of  the  Hesperides  are  supposed  to  belong  to  this  family. 

Fine  trees  are  raised  from  seeds,  and  when  the  shoots  are  two  years  old  they 


236  WINDOW  GARDENING 

can  be  budded  from  fruitful  trees.  The  blossoms  of  the  Lemon  are  smallei 
than  those  of  the  Orange,  and  they  are  not  as  purely  white,  the  under  side  ol 
the  petals  being'  tinged  with  purple. 

Oranges  are  over  a  year  in  ripening,  and  often  remain  for  two  years  on  the  tree. 
Lemons  ripen  irregularly,  and  fall  off  when  ripe.  Every  six  or  seven  years 
both  orange  and  lemon  trees  should  be  pruned  closely.  Shorten  in  the  shoots 
several  inches,  and  they  will  throw  out  an  abundance  of  fresh  green  leaves. 

If  they  flourish  well,  they  will  not  need  repotting  oftener  than  once  in  five  or 
six  years.  Then  the  mouldy  roots,  and  smallest  fibres  should  be  cut  back,  and 
the  ball  of  earth  well  shaken  off.  Pot  in  soil  of  light  loam,  leaf  manure,  and 
two  years'  old  cow  manure,  equal  parts,  with  a  good  sprinkling  of  charcoal  dust. 
Keep  in  the  shade  for  two  or  three  weeks,  and  water  less  frequently  than  when 
in  flower.  It  loves  the  light,  but  not  the  hot  sun  until  the  fruit  is  ripening. 

The  Sweet  Verbena. 

The  Sweet  Verbena  or  Aloysa  citriodora,  is  much  cultivated  for  its  lemon- 
scented  foliage.  Any  soil  will  suit  it,  but  in  rich  loam  it  makes  a  more  vigorous 
growth. 

It  is  of  a  deciduous  habit,  will  lose  its  leaves,  and  its  admirers  grieve  when 
they  fall,  but  like  the  elm  and  the  maple,  it  buds  out  afresh  in  March  or  April, 
and  from  the  old  wood,  cuttings  will  strike  as  easily  as  currant  cuttings. 

When  its  leaves  have  fallen,  it  can  stand  in  any  dark,  cool  place  where  the 
frost  will  not  touch  it,  and  where  the  roots  can  be  kept  rather  dry 

It  makes  an  ornamental  standard  plant,  if  trained  to  a  single  stem  to  a  height 
of  three  feet,  and  then  allowed  to  branch  out  in  a  graceful  form. 

The  young  shoots  will  strike  root  in  May  or  June,  if  planted  under  glass,  and 
well  shaded  for  awhile.  The  flowers  are  borne  in  large  spikes  and  are  very 
minute,  white,  but  not  much  esteemed,  as  the  foliage  is  the  most  desired  part 
of  the  plant.  Its  generally  neat  appearance  always  gains  much  admiration. 
Trim  old  plants  and  repot  them  in  the  spring.  Root  the  trimmings  in  wet 
sand,  under  a  glass ;  then  give  those  young  plants  a  soil  of  garden  earth,  vegeta- 
ble mould  and  gravel  in  equal  proportions.  Set  the  pots  in  a  garden-bed,  plunged 
to  their  rims,  till  September ;  then  stir  the  soil  often  with  an  old  table-fork, 
water  sparingly,  giving  liquid  manure  once  a  week  ;  take  them  to  the  parlor  in 
October,  let  them  have  the  sun  six  hours  every  day,  keep  the  atmosphere 
moist,  and  not  above  65°  by  day  or  45°  by  night,  and  they  will  flourish  wonder- 
iully. 

Eupatoriums  and  Stevias. 

By  reason  of  the  contrast  of  their  delicate  blossoms  and  graceful  foliage,  with 
those  of  the  Geranium,  the  Eupatorium  and  Stevias  deserves  high  rank,  as 
popular  favorites.  The  eupatorium  gets  its  name  from  Eupater,  king  of  Pontus, 
who  first  used  the  plant  in  medicine.  We  have  many  species  growing  in  their 
native  beauty  in  the  lovely  mountain  passes  and  valleys  of  the  North,  as  well  as 


WINDOW  GARDENING.  237 

in  the  sunny  meadows  farther  South ;  and  the  florist  has  transplanted  them  and 
carefully  watched  and  tended  their  growth  till  the  foliage  has  attained  unwonted 
smoothness  and  beauty,  and  the  hues  of  the  tassel-shaped  flowers  have  become 
clearer  and  brighter.  Their  large  clusters  of  snow-white,  or  lilac  blossoms,  have 
a  fine  effect  among  geraniums,  and  they  have  always  been  much  sought  after  as 
a  winter  blooming  flower.  The  white  varieties  are  most  cultivated,  being  used  for 
funeral  crosses,  and  crowns,  also  for  wedding  bouquets. 

They  prefer  a  sandy,  peaty  loam,  with  a  good  supply  of  water.  In  the  spring, 
after  blooming,  shake  out  the  old  soil  and  repot  in  good  loam  and  sand  mixed 
in  equal  proportions.  Make  new  plants  of  the  cuttings.  Start  them  in  damp 
sand  under  glass.  Water  them  much  and  frequently.  Set  them  in  the  garden 
till  September,  then  accustom  them  gradually  to  the  indoor  atmosphere.  They 
will  bloom  from  November  till  February.  When  in  flower  they  do  not  need 
much  sunshine,  as  it  dims  the  whiteness  of  the  flowers. 

Eupatorium  ageratoides,  E.  Mexicanum  and  E.  elegans  are  the  varieties 
most  usually  cultivated  in  conservatories  and  window  gardens.  They  are  of  a 
beautiful  feathery  whiteness,  and  most  desirable  for  purposes  of  decoration.  In 
saving  the  seeds,  cut  the  flowers  while  in  full  bloom,  as  they  ripen  quickly,  and 
fly  away,  but  they  germinate  easily. 

The  Stevias,  of  similar  foliage,  but  a  yet  more  delicate  and  feathery  flower, 
of  a  creamy  white,  cultivate  in  the  same  way.  Pinch  out  all  buds  that  appear 
on  these  plants  during  the  summer.  No  plants  can  be  so  effectively  grouped  as 
geraniums  with  heliotropes,  eupatoriums,  and  stevias,  if  proper  attention  is  paid 
to  an  agreeable  contrast  of  their  blossoms, — the  purple  or  lilac  being  always 
flanked  with  white — never  with  red  or  crimson  or  rose, — and  the  white  mingled 
among  scarlets,  crimsons,  reds,  and  salmons — the  white  predominating. 

The  Chinese  Primrose. 

The  Primula  Chinensis  is  the  gem  of  the  collection  of  window  plants.  None 
surpass  it  in  beauty ;  and  for  continuous  bloom,  certainly  none  can  be  found  more 
desirable.  It  is  one  of  the  best  of  all  plants  for  the  decoration  of  the  drawing 
room  or  dining  table,  and  always  at  home  in  the  conservatory  or  greenhouse. 
For  nine  months  out  of  the  twelve  they  may  be  made  to  yield  flowers,  though 
most  profusely  from  November  to  May,  and  with  their  colors  of  red,  white, 
crimson,  purple,  and  pink,  they  form  objects  of  curious  ornament. 

They  are  objects  of  easy  care,  requiring  attention  only  in  watering;  the  soil 
should  not  be  allowed  to  get  dry,  and  yet  the  roots  are  so  tenacious  of  life,  they 
will  cling  closely  till  the  last  moment  around  any  particle  of  moisture  in  the  earth. 
Keep  the  soil  moderately  moist,  but  not  over  saturated  ;  if  evaporation  or  drain- 
age is  slow,  and  the  circulation  through  the  pot  impeded,  the  plants  will  turn 
sickly  and  die  off.  We  do  not  advise  manure  water;  plain  warm  water  is  the 
best.  The  best  varieties  for  window  gardens  are  the  Double  White  Primroses 
and  rubra  plena,  a  double  red  variety,  indescribably  charming.  The  single 
fringed  varieties  are  very  fine,  but  the  above  are  now  the  most  popular.  One 


238  WINDOW  GARDENING. 

great  advantage  which  the  Primrose  possesses  over  most  winter  flowering  plants 
is  that  it  is  rarely  ever  infested  with  green  fly  or  other  troublesome  pests. 
Primroses  are  propagated  mainly  by  cutting's  and  seeds.  Cuttings  taken  from  the 
side  shoots  in  April  will  make  vigorous  plants  by  autumn.  From  June  to  Octo- 
ber they  should  be  kept  from  the  hot  sun,  in  a  shady  location,  with  but  little 
water.  The  soil  should  be  largely  composed  of  leaf  mould. 

The  single  varieties  are  largely  grown  from  seed  which  should  be  sown  in  April 
or  May,  under  a  square  of  glass ;  when  four  or  five  leaves  are  developed,  plant 
in  small  thumb  pots,  and  shade  for  two  or  three  days.  During  the  summer 
keep  the  pots  in  a  shady  location,  but  in  the  winter  the  nearer  they  are  to  the 
glass  the  better  and  brighter  will  they  flower. 

If  any  unusually  rine  flowers  reward  your  care,  they  can  be  increased  bjr  cut- 
tings. The  Primrose  is  a  perennial ;  the  seed  is  usually  sold  in  mixed  colors, 
but  they  can  be  recognized  nearly  as  soon  as  the  leaves  appear,  by  the  color  of 
the  stems.  No  plant  flowers  more  profusely,  and  sometimes  five  hundred  florets 
are  gathered  from  one  plant. 

The  Pansy. 

The  Pansy  never  blooms  so  well  as  when  the  plant  is  small  and  well  rooted, 
for  as  it  increases  in  size  the  blossoms  become  smaller,  and,  although  abundant, 
inferior.  They  can  be  cut  back  after  spring  flowering,  and  all  the  buds  kept  off' 
until  December,  then  they  will  bloom  for  the  whole  winter.  If  planted  ir.  boxes 
in  a  conservatory  or  window,  they  make  a  fine  show;  indeed,  there  are  few 
plants  more  desirable  for  window  gardening. 

They  are  most  easily  raised  from  seed,  and  it  is  well  to  purchase  the  most  ex- 
pensive varieties,  so  as  to  be  certain  of  the  finest  flowers. 

Cuttings  strike  quickly,  and  are  more  sure  of  fine  flowers,  as  they  always  re- 
produce the  parent  plant.  They  should  be  cut  about  three  inches  long,  and  taken 
from  the  points  of  the  shoots,  and  cut  off'  directly  under  the  joint.  Strip  off' the 
lower  leaves,  and  insert  them  in  saucers  of  wet  sand,  pressing  it  closely  around 
the  joint.  Keep  tumblers  over  them,  and  in  six  weeks  they  will  be  well  rooted 
and  ready  to  transplant  into  small  pots  filled  with  the  richest  compost. 

Pansies  are  gross  feeders,  delighting  in  the  richest  soil  you  can  prepare ;  in 
rotten  tanbark,  leaf  manure,  and  cow  manure,  equal  parts,  they  will  bloom  mag- 
nificently. 

No  plant  is  better  adapted  to  house  culture,  as  they  can  bear  changes  of  atmos- 
phere, and  a  good  deal  of  water,  while  their  bright  faces  are  very  attractive  in 
the  gloomy  wintry  days. 

They  can  be  increased  by  dividing  the  roots,  and  keeping  them  in  the  shade 
for  a  week  or  ten  days.  If  the  amateur  desires  to  save  seed  from  her  plants, 
she  should  select  the  largest,  brightest  flowers,  and  cut  off  all  other  buds  and 
blossoms.  As  the  seed  pod  matures  it  can  be  tied  up  in  gauze  to  prevent  the 
seed  from  scattering,  and  when  fully  ripe,  can  be  planted  directly  in  sandy  loam. 
When  the  seedlings  flower  those  should  be  rejected  that  are  not  very  handsome 


WINDOW  GARDENING.  239 

The  best  location  for  Pansies  is  a  northwest  window,  for  they  delight  in  shade, 
and  desire  to  shun  "  the  gairish  eye  of  day,"  and  hide  their  lovely  blossoms 
from  his  scorching  rays. 

The  Sweet  Violet. 

These  require  a  rich  compost  to  enable  them  to  bloom  luxuriantly,  and  a  cool 
temperature,  say  40°  to  45° ;  all  the  fading  leaves  must  be  cut  off,  and  if  the 
plant  is  desired  to  bloom  profusely,  the  runners  should  also  be  cut  off  as  soon  as 
they  appear.  Water  must  not  settle  at  the  roots. 

They  are  propagated  by  divisions  of  the  roots,  or  usually  by  cuttings  taken  in 
June,  and  raised  in  wet  sand  under  glass. 

The  dark  blue  English  variety,  or  the  double  blue  Neapolitan,  are  most  gen- 
erally cultivated  as  parlor  plants. 

The  Czar  or  Russian  Violet  has  been  much  admired  ;  leaves  are  large  and  the 
flowers  are  borne  on  very  long  footstalks,  five  to  six  inches  in  length.  The  flower 
is  single,  but  large,  and  fine ;  color  of  a  light  blue ;  blooms  all  winter  from  Sep 
tember  to  May,  and  fills  the  air  with  its  delicious  fragrance. 

King  of  the  Violets.  Flowers  very  double,  like  a  miniature  rosette,  very  fra 
grant,  color  of  a  deep  indigo  blue,  with  occasional  stripes  of  white ;  flowers 
borne  in  profusion. 

Double  Blue  Neapolitan,  the  best  standard  sort  we  have.  A  bouquet  com- 
posed of  a  statuesque  camellia,  embedded  in  blue  violets,  with  a  fringe  of  cliver 
or  gypsophila,  is  the  perfection  of  floral  arrangement,  combining  beautj',  fra- 
grance and  grace. 

The  Daisy. 

Its  botanical  name,  Bellis,  signifies  beautiful,  pretty.  Cultivation  has  given 
to  it  -many  petals,  and  also  brighter  hues. 

It  is  frequently  used  in  this  country  as  an  edging  for  beds  and  borders,  but  it 
is  a  pretty  plant  for  house  culture,  with  its  tufts  of  lovely  green  leaves  crowned 
with  numerous  bright  pink  blossoms. 

It  flourishes  best  in  a  rich  soil,  and  is  propagated  by  offsets,  or  division  of  the 
roots.  For  winter  flowering,  the  pot  should  be  kept  in  the  shade,  with  little 
water  during  the  hot  weather — only  enough  to  keep  it  from  drying  up — till  the 
first  of  October.  Then  it  will  need  all  the  sunshine  to  make  it  bloom  well,  and 
liquid  manure  will  greatly  increase  its  blossoms. 

The  Daisy  will  bear  transplanting,  even  when  in  flower,  if  the  s»il  is  kept 
about  the  roots.  Every  spring  fresh  earth  should  be  given,  and  the  roots  should 
be  divided.  The  Belgian§  Daisy  is  best  adapted  to  house  culture. 

The  Calla.     (Eichardia^ 

The  Calla  JEthiopica  is  a  very  attractive  plant,  its  large,  broad,  glossy,  green 
leaves,  and  its  white,  thickly  textured,  scroll-like  blossom  making  it  peculiarly 
graceful.  There  is  no  better  plant  for  the  centre  of  a  group  of  flowers. 


240  WINDOW   GARDENING. 

It  blooms  equally  well  in  greenhouse,  conservatory  or  window  garden ;  may  be 
allowed  to  be  rather  dry  in  the  summer  after  flowering,  but  care  should  be  taken 
not  to  injure  or  break  off  the  leaves.  When  budding  it  requires  much  water, 
and  its  saucers  should  be  supplied  night  and  morning.  It  is  propagated  by 
suckers  and  divisions  of  its  roots.  It  desires  a  clayey  loam  with  a  third  of  leaf 
mould.  It  is  very  tender,  feeling  a  slight  chill. 

Its  flowers  are  in  great  request  at  Easter  to  adorn  the  churches,  when  white 
lilies  are  sought  as  emblems  of  the  risen  Redeemer,  and  the  florists  grow  them 
in  large  quantities  for  this  purpose. 

The  best  method  of  growing  Callas  is  in  a  hollow  stand  lined  with  zinc ;  eight 
or  ten  flowering  bulbs  can  be  planted  in  a  stand  three  or  four  feet  long,  and 
eighteen  inches  wide.  It  should  be  eight  inches  deep,  and  the  surface  of  the  pots 
should  be  covered  with  moss,  and  moss  filled  in  between  the  pots.  Its  appear- 
ance is  exceedingly  ornamental  in  a  bay  window,  and  it  is  very  easily  taken  care 
of,  the  chief  essential  being  plenty  of  water,  and  a  weekly  sponging  of  the  large 
leaves  ;  and  the  stand  should  be  occasionally  turned,  as  the  large  leaves  turn 
towards  the  light. 

Such  a  stand  of  Callas  can  be  set  out  of  doors  in  a  shady  place  during  the 
summer  and  brought  in  before  fear  of  frosts.  Soon  they  will  make  vigorous 
growth,  and  will  flower  abundantly  from  December  to  May.  No  flower  better 
endure*  furnace  heat  and  gas,  and  so  it  is  particularly  adapted  to  window  cul- 
ture. 

Dielytra  Spectabilis. 

For  window  flowering  and  conservatory,  this  plant  is  very  valuable.  Take  up 
the  tuberous  roots  in  October,  in  a  six  or  seven  inch  pot,  and  set  in  a  sheltered 
place  for  a  month  or  so,  giving  a  little  water  daily,  and  keeping  it  warm.  When 
the  shoots  appear,  bring  to  the  light,  and  give  it  as  sunny  a  situation  as  possible, 
but  the  atmosphere  need  not  be  warm.  It  will  do  well  in  a  chamber  window 
where  the  temperature  is  about  60°.  As  it  grows  and  produces  more  flowers, 
increase  the  supply  of  water. 

It  will  grow  best  in  light  sandy  loam,  but  enjoys  a  weekly  measure  of  liquid 
manure.  When  done  flowering,  set  in  a  shady  place,  but  give  water  in  small 
quantities  as  long  as  the  leaves  are  green ;  when  they  fade,  give  only  enough  to 
prevent  its  dying  from  thirst,  and  in  the  following  autumn  proceed  as  above,  giv- 
ing a  fresh  supply  of  soil  to  make  its  blossoms  more  plentiful. 

It  multiplies  from  the  root,  and  must  be  given  enough  pot  room,  or  its  roots 
divided  yearly.  * 

The  Calceolaria. 

The  Calceolaria, — its  name  comes  from  the  Latin  for  shoe — the  blossom  resem- 
bles an  ancient  Roman  slipper, — is  singularly  beautiful  with  its  heavy  clusters  of 
golden,  crimson,  maroon,  or  rose-colored  flowers — sometimes  plainly  tinted,  at 
others  curiously  mottled  and  flecked.  It  needs  a  sandy  soil — garden  earth  and 
common  sand  in  equal  proportions ;  should  be  kept  rather  warm,  in  an  atmos- 


WINDOW    GARDENING.  241 

phere  of  60°  to  65°  by  day,  and  50°  at  night ;  and  be  sparingly  watered.  Give 
liquid  manure  once  a  week  after  the  flower-buds  start.  Pot  old  plants  in  May, 
in  the  same  manner  as  eupatoriums,  and  keep  them  in  a  warm  but  shady  place, 
out  of  doors,  till  September,  with  only  water  enough  to  prevent  them  from  droop- 
ing. Before  potting  cut  them  in  closely,  and  make  new  plants  of  those  cuttings 
by  rooting  them  in  moist  sand  under  a  glass,  in  the  sunshine ;  or  plant  the  see 
in  a  sunny  and  sheltered  spot.  In  August  pot  them  and  tie  carefully  to  a  light 
trellis  till  they  are  two  feet  high,  then  trim  off  the  most  slender  branches — in 
fact  cut  them  in  pretty  close  and  let  them  stand  alone.  This  is  a  delicate  plant, 
but  may  be  strengthened  and  hardened  by  this  close  trimming  and  a  careful 
management  of  its  supplies  of  heat  and  moisture.  It  needs  a  good  deal  of  air — 
does  best  when  wide  breathing  space  is  allowed. 

The  Lantana. 

The  Lantana  requires  similar  soil  and  treatment  to  the  Calceolaria — except 
that  it  is  of  a  stouter,  a  more  woody  nature,  and  needs  no  support.  Its  compact 
head  of  flowers  of  different  and  changing  hues — white,  crimson,  scarlet,  orange, 
and  yellow,  sometimes  all  in  the  same  spike,  is  always  an  object  of  great  in- 
terest, though  its  peculiar  perfume  is  not  universally  agreeable. 

The  Pyrethrum. 

A  very  desirable  window  plant  is  the  Pyrethrum,  sometimes  called  Mountain 
Daisy  ;  it  is  found  in  great  profusion  in  the  mountainous  regions  of  Asia.  This 
will  grow  in  ordinary  soil  with  very  little  care,  and  its  delicate  light  green  foliage, 
crowned  with  dense  clusters  of  snow-white  blossoms,  contrasts  finely  with  the 
deeper  colorings  of  Calceolarias  and  Lan tanas.  Old  plants  should  be  cut  to  their 
roots,  and  both  roots  and  cuttings  be  set  in  a  garden-bed  in  May  or  June,  and 
treated  as  common  out-of-door  plants.  Pinch  out  all  flower-buds  till  they  are 
taken  to  the  house.  In  September  pot  them  with  the  same  soil  in  which  they 
have  been  growing.  Keep  them  in  the  shade,  with  occasional  watering,  for  a 
fortnight,  then  bring  them  within  doors.  The  Pyrethrum  does  best  in  a  mod 
erate  temperature  with  scanty  watering. 

The  Chrysanthemums. 

The  Chrysanthemum  (it  gets  its  name  from  the  Greek  words  for  gold  and 
flower — many  species  bear  yellow  flowers),  though  commomly  classed  with  out- 
of-door  plants,  should  be  made  to  lend  its  beauty  to  every  parlor  through  the 
months  of  October,  November  and  December.  After  flowering,  Chrysanthemums 
must  be  set  in  a  dark,  cool  place — a  cellar,  or  any  damp  dark  place  where  they 
will  not  freeze— till  May.  Then  give  them  the  same  treatment  as  Pyrethrumsf 
with  which  they  are  often  classed  ;  but  they  require  free  watering.  Soapsuds 
will  make  them  grow  stout  and  strong  through  the  summer.  After  they  are 
potted  give  liquid  manure  twice  a  week  till  the  buds  begin  to  unfold,  then  with- 
hold it  entirely 

16 


242  WINDOW  GARDENING. 

A  very  desirable  feature  of  the  Chrysanthemum  as  a  winter  blooming  plant, 
is  that  the  blossoms  are  finely  formed,  of  brilliant  colors,  keep  well,  and  are  pro- 
duced in  great  abundance.     The  dwarf  or  Pompone  varieties  are  nov  the  most 
used  in  consequence  of  their  beauty  of  form,  with  diminutive  habit  of  growth 
Any  florists'  catalogue  will  give  a  good  list  of  varieties. 

The  Ch.  ladniatum  has  a  novel  and  elegant  appearance.  The,  flowers  are 
double,  nearly  three  inches  in  diameter,  delicately  fringed,  and  of  the  purest 
white.  It  is  especially  a  plant  for  winter  flowers.  By  pinching  off  the  flower 
buds  as  they  show,  it  can  be  had  in  flower  from  December  to  March. 

The  Salvia. 

Another  splendid  flowering  plant,  which  has  been  supposed,  until  recently,  to 
expend  all  its  energies  during  the  autumnal  months,  and  to  require  the  open  air 
for  the  perfection  of  its  beauty,  is  the  Salvia.  Salvia  angustifolia^  with  its  ele- 
gant foliage  and  long  spikes  of  clear  blue  flowers,  is  particularly  fine ;  so  is  S. 
patens,  bearing  blossoms  of  a  still  more  "heavenly  hue;"  yet  none  are  so 
attractive,  nor  so  hardy,  as  S.  splendens,  with  its  plumes  of  dazzling  scarlet. 
Any  of  the  Salvias  are  easily  raised  from  cuttings ;  trim  all  the  foliage  from 
these  slips  and  set  them  in  damp  sand  to  root.  Start  them  in  May.  When 
rooted  set  them  in  the  garden,  but  keep  them  shaded  from  the  sun  with  a  paper 
screen  till  the  new  leaves  are  well  developed.  Water  freely.  In  September  pot 
those  you  wish  for  the  house,  and  pinch  out  the  buds.  If  then  left  to  themselves 
they  will  store  up  strength  for  the  winter.  But  before  the  frosts  come,  be  sure 
to  take  them  within  doors,  and  give  the  fertilizer  once  a  week  till  in  bloom.  Cut 
them  to  the  root  in  Majr,  and  set  the  root  in  the  garden.  It  is  best  to  start  new 
plants  every  year  for  the  house.  Salvias  need  a  light  loamy  soil,  and  a  tempera- 
tui-e  of  60°  by  day,  and  45°  by  night. 

Tlie  Mimulus. 

The  Mimulus — its  seeds  resemble  the  face  of  a  monkey,  and  hence  its  name, 
which  comes  from  the  Latin — is  a  very  thirsty  plant,  does  best  in  a  mixture  of 
leaf  mould  and  garden  earth,  with  just  enough  sand  to  keep  the  soil  from  being 
heavy,  and  frequently  needs  watering  twice  a  day  ;  but  it  thrives  in  the  atmos- 
phere of  any  family  room,  and  with  its  gorgeous  blossoms  of  gold  spotted  with 
maroon  and  crimson,  is  a  great  addition  to  any  collection.  Propagate  it  from 
cuttings  rooted  in  water.  The  young  plants  should  be  kept  in  the  shade  all  sum- 
mer out  of  doors 

Pinks. 

4  Pinks — Dianthus  Chinensis,  the  China  Pink,  and  Dianthus  caryophillus,  the 
Carnation — are  well  known  parlor  plants.  The  China  Pink,  though  not  fra- 
grant, is  so  beautiful  and  so  easy  to  manage,  no  collection  should  be  considered 
complete  without  it.  Plant  seed  in  June  in  good,  garden  soil ;  pinch  out  all 
flower  buds  till  September ;  then  take  them,  with  a  ball  of  earth  about  their 


WINDOW   GARDENING.  243 

roots,  to  pots  of  the  same  soil.  Keep  them  in  the  shade  a  fortnight.  Water 
sparingly  till  more  flower  buds  appear,  then  give  moisture  generously — weak 
liquid  manure  twice  a  week,  also  It  will  bear  great  heat,  65°  to  70°;  but  60° 
suits  it  best.  In  that  temperature  in  an  open,  airy  situation,  it  will  put  forth  its 
deep  crimson,  velvet,  very  double,  flowers  in  great  profusion  all  winter 

Achyranthes. 

The  best  varieties  of  Achyranthes  are  now  freely  used  for  window  decoration, 
and  have  become  quite  common  as  standard  plants  for  the  centre  of  hanging  Or 
standing  floral  baskets.  They  need  only  a  moderate  temperature  of  50°  to  75,° 
and  are  easily  taken  care  off.  Their  rich  crimson  tints  have  made  the  people 
crazy  to  use  them  wherever  it  is  conceivable  to  do  so. 

Achyranthes  Lindeni  has  foliage  of  the  deepest  red,  each  leaf  having  a  con- 
spicuous mid-rib  of  a  lighter  shade ;  when  the  sun  shines  fully  upon  it  it  is  of  a 
perfect  claret  color,  habit  dwarf,  leaves  narrow, "lanceolae,  and  considered  the 
most  ornamental  of  the  class  of  fine  foliaged  plants. 

A.  aureus  reticulatus,  is  of  the  same  habit  of  growth  as  the  A.  Verschaffeltii, 
but  its  leaves  are  of  a  rich  apple  green,  marked  with  a  net  work  of  yellow,  while 
the  stems  are  a  ruby  crimson,  affording  a  fine  contrast  with  the  leaves. 

A.  Verschajfeltii,  Var  Gilsonii.  This  variety  has  leaves  of  a  still  brighter 
tint,  a  full  carmine,  with  the  sterns  of  a  deep  shade  of  pink,  rendering  the  plant 
decidedly  ornamental,  and  giving  a  very  rich  appearance.  This  variety  is  now 
generally  used  in  place  of  the  old  Verschaffeltii 

Golems 

We  do  not  recommend  too  free  a  use  of  this  for  the  window  or  room  culture. 
It  needs  moist  and  warm  temperature,  and  uniform,  with  no  change  for  the 
cooler.  This,  of  course,  is  in  direct  opposition  to  the  actual  facts  they  have  to 
meet  in  rooms  which  invariably  grow  colder  at  night.  Another  objection  is  that 
they  grow  so  large  and  tall,  and  become  so  ungainly,  that  they  are  not  fit  for 
any  length  of  time  for  any  good  position  They  are  too  tall  for  hanging  baskets, 
although  would  look  very  appropriate  in  the  centre  of  a  group  of  plants  in  a 
large  flower  stand.  They  are  much  more  tender  than  the  Achyranthes,  will  not 
bear  the  touch  of  frost,  and  a  slight  chill  is  death  to  them.  Wherever  they  can 
have  a  warm  position,  with  plenty  of  sunlight,  (although  not  directly  upon  their 
leaves),  and  a  moderately  moist  atmosphere,  they  will  do  well.  The  best  varie- 
ties are : 

Princess  Royal,  centre,  reddish  brown,  light  yellow  margin. 

Queen  Victoria,  rich  bronzy  crimson,  bright  yellow,  edged  with  crimson  vein- 
ing. 

Setting  Sun,  crimson  centre,  with  bright  yellow  edge 

Albert  Victor,  centre  purplish  red,  broad  yellow  margin. 


244  WINDOW   GARDENING. 

Alternantheras. 

These  are  dwarf  plants  with  narrow  lanceolate  leaves,  which  make  very 
effective  edging;  their  leaves  are  variegated  with  crimson,  pink,  green,  brown, 
tmmge  and  carmine,  in  some  respects  resembling  our  brilliant  autumn  leaves ; 
are  well  suited  for  hanging  baskets. 

A.    latifolia,  has  broad  leaves  of  olive,  green,  crimson  and  orange. 

A.  amabilis,  rich  tints  of  orange,  rose  and  green. 

A.  amoena,  is  crimson,  pink,  brown  and  amber  red. 

Begonias, 

Are  purchased  principally  already  started  and  potted,  ready  to  be  placed  in  the 
window  for  decoration.  Keep  the  leaves  away  from  the  window  pane,  or  they 
will  turn  black.  The  temperature  of  room  should  be  60°  to  75°  constantly,  and 
warmth  must  be  steady,  not  changing. 

Begonia  Rex,  is  the  best  variety  yet  grown  in  this  country,  and,  as  a  showy 
plant,  for  picturesque  ornament  in  the  room  or  conservatory,  it  is  unequalled. 
Leaves  have  an  immense  size,  tinged  with  crimson,  with  here  and  there  broad, 
silvery  zones,  and  snowy  spots,  with  emerald  hues  on  the  surface.  It  is  perhaps 
the  most  popular  plant  now  sold  for  house  or  parlor  decoration. 


PART    III. 


PARLOR    DECORATIONS 


Pig.  I.— Parlor  Flower  Staud  for  Tropicai  Plants. 


CHAPTER    XXVI. 

THE  DECORAIION  OF  PARLORS  AND  LIVING  ROOMS  WITH  ORNA- 
MENTAL PLANTS  AND  FLOWERS. 

A  subject  like  this  is  one  of  intense  interest  to  the  American  flower  loving 
public.  Formerly  little  was  done  in  the  encouragement  of  it,  because  we  all, 
like  amateurs,  and  beginners,  knew  little  of  the  best  plants  and  methods,  and 
waited  to  learn  from  those  more  experienced;  but  of  late,  amateurs,  in  their 
eager  zeal  for  window  and  room  decorations,  have  taken  in  hand  their  own  im- 
patient fancies,  and  led  the -way  with  experiments  and  trials  of  their  own, 
while  the  florists  everywhere  look  with  admiration  and  respect  upon  the  wide 
spreading  taste  for  window  and  parlor  gardening.  The  amateurs  have  out- 
stripped the  professionals  in  the  rapidity  of  their  progress,  and  the  prettiest  rooms 
to-day  are  embellished  by  the  fingers  of  a  fair  plant  lover,  who  a  year  before  did 
not  know  one  flower  from  another. 

To  speak  with  truth,  nothing  is  prettier,  more  elegant,  and  in  many  respects 
easier,  than  the  decoration  of  our  parlors,  reception  rooms,  halls,  etc.,  with  ap- 
propriate plants  and  flowers. 

The  very  pictures,  statues,  vases,  chandeliers,  and  other  permanent  ornaments, 
allow  room  for  the  exhibition  of  many  kinds  and  varieties  of  beautiful  plants. 

In  such  rooms,  however  elegantly  furnished,  is  the  proper  place  for  fine 
Aquaria,  Wardian  Cases,  Flower  Stands,  Wire  Arbors  for  climbing  plants, 
flower  baskets,  or  hanging  baskets  hung  up  between  the  curtains 

Flowers  used  for  decoration  will  harmonize  completely  with  any  architecture 
or  furniture  of  the  parlor.  Indeed,  was  there  ever  any  flower  out  of  place  iu  a 
beautiful  room  ? 

A  tasteful  and  carefully  arranged  composition  of  plants  will  captivate  for  a 
)ng  time  the  love,  attention  and  admiration  of  all  classes  of  society. 

Few  American  writers  have  devoted  much  attention  to  this  subject,  and  we 
oannot  now  recall  a  single  article  in  our  horticultural  literature  which  treats  in 
detail  of  the  use  of  plants  for  room  decoration;  but  in  English  and  Continental 
journals  the  topic  is  a  common  one,  doubtless  from  the  more  extensive  use  of 
costly  plants  at  parties,  receptions,  and  large  social  gatherings.  It  is  one  of  the 
higher  branches  of  the  florist's  occupation,  and  really  an  art  for  the  display  of 
the  most  refined  taste. 

William  Robinson,  the  author  of  "Parks,  Promenades  and  Gardens  of  Paris," 
has  perhaps  described  C»e  Continental  system  of  the  plant  decoration  of  apart- 
ments more  completely  than  any  other,  and  refers  to  it  in  these  words : — 


248 


WINDOW   GARDENING. 


"The  graceful  custom  of  growing  plants  in  living  rooms  is  very  much  more 
prevalent  on  the  Continent  than  with  us.  It  is  true  that  we  often  see  a  display 
of  flowering  plants  in  rooms,  though  we  rarely  rise  to  the  use  of  subjects  distin- 
guished by  beauty  of  form,  or  select  those  that  are  peculiarly  adapted  for  in- 
doors. But  the  day  is  approaching  when  the  value  of  graceful  plants  as  home 
ornaments  will  be  very  fully  appreciated.  Apart  altogether  from  their  effect  as 
ornaments,  what  can  more  agreeably  introduce  us  to  the  study  of  natural  his- 
tory ?  The  influence  of  the  graceful  form  of  a  young  Palm  in  the  hall,  the 
fascinating  verdure  of  Ferns,  and  fine  leaved  plants  from  many  countries,  in  the 
drawing  room,  and  flowers  from  the  orchards  of  the  uplands  of  Mexico,  to  the 

tiny  bulbs  of  Europe,  in 
your  Lilliputian  room-con- 
servatory, is  surely  more 
eloquent  in  that  direction 
than  any  book  teaching. 
You  cannot  deny,  as  Kings- 
ley  says,  that  "your  daugh- 
ters find  an  enjoyment  in 
it,  and  are  more  active, 
more  cheerful,  more  self 
forgetful  over  it,  than  they 
would  have  been  over  novels 
and  gossip,  crochet  and 
Berlin  wool.  At  least  you 
will  confess  that  theabomi 
nation  of  "  fancy  work  "— 
that  standing  cloak  for 
dreamy  idleness — has  all 
but  vanished  from  your 
drawing  rooms  since  the 
"  Lady  Ferns  "  and  Venus 
Hair  Ferns  appeared.' 

Ferns,  to  be  sure,  have 
been   a   great  help  and   a 

great  attraction,  but  they  are  not  altogether  superior  as  to  verdure  and  elegance  ; 
there  are  other  plants  much  more  readily  grown  in  rooms. 

"  By  a  combination  of  all  the  plants  suitable  for  this  purpose,  we  may  not 
only  find  very  agreeable  indoor  imployment,  but  create  the  highest  kind  of  orna 
ment  and  interest  in  the  house  at  all  seasons. 

"  Merely  displaying  a  few  popular  or  showy  subjects  is  not  plant  decoration 
in  any  high  sense  !  Rooms  are  often  over-crowded  with  artificial  ornaments, 
many  of  them  exact  representations  of  natural  objects ;  but  in  the  case  of  plants 
we  may,  without  inconvenience,  enjoy  and  preserve  the  Irving  objects  themselves. 


Fig.  2.— Marauta  fascia!  a. 


WINDOW  GARDENING. 


249 


"  Those  we  employ  for  this  purpose,  now  are  mostly  of  a  fleeting  character, 
and  such  as  cannot  be  preserved  in  health  for  any  length  of  time  in  living  rooms. 
But  if  in  addition  to  the  best  of  these  we  select  handsome  leaved  plants  of  a 
leathery  texture,  accustomed  to  withstand  the  fierce  heats  of  hot  countries,  we 
shall  find  that  the  dry  and  dusty  air  of  the  living  room  is  not  at  all  injurious  to 
them,  and  that  it  is  quite  easy  to  keep  them  in  health  for  months,  and  even  for 
years,  in  the  same  apartments. 

"  Many  plants  that  in  England  are  considered  as  Exotics,  are  sold  in  Paris  in 
abundance  for  the  deco- 
ration of  apartments 
The  demand  for  use  in 
private  houses  gives  rise 
to  a  large  and  special 
branch  of  trade  in  many 
of  the  nurseries,  and  I 
know  one  Versailles  cul- 
tivator who  annually 
raises  and  sells  5,000  or 
6,000  plants  of  the 
bright-leaved  Dracaena 
terminalis  alone,  and  by 
far  the  greater  part  for 
room  decoration. " 

Although  English 
plants  are  much  better 
grown  than  the  Paris- 
ian, yet  those  of  the 
iatter  appear  the  best ; 
the  difference  being 
caused  by  exceedingly 
tasteful  and  frequently 
peculiar  arrangement, 
as  well  as  by  employing 
effective  and  graceful 
kinds  What  the  Paris- 
ians do  as  regards  ar-  Fig.  3.— Gymnostachyum  VerschaffeltiL 

rangement  may  be  best  gleaned  if  we  describe   the  decorations  for  one  of  the 
balls  of  the  Hotel  de  Ville : 

"  Entering  the  Salle  St.  Jean,  the  eye  was  immediately  attracted  by  a  luxuri- 
ant mass  of  vegetation  at  one  end,  while  on  the  right  and  immediately  round  a 
mirrored  recess  was  a  very  tasteful  and  telling  display,  made  as  follows  :  In 
front  of  the  large  and  high ,  mirror  stretched  a  bank  of  moss,  common  moss 
underneath,  and  the  surface  nicely  formed  of  fresh  green  Lycopodium  denticula 


260 


WJND OW   GARD KX1NG. 


turn,  the  whole  being  dotted  over  with  the  variously  tinted  Chinese  Primulas,— 
a  bank  of  these  plants,  in  fact,  high  enough  in  its  back  parts  to  be  reflected  in 
the  mirror,  with  the  taller  plants  which  surrounded  it,  gradually  falling  to  the 

floor,  and  merging  into  the 
groups  of  larger  plants  on 
either  side  of  the  bank,  the 
whole  being  enclosed  by  a  low, 
gilt,  wooden  trellis  work  mar- 
gin. 

"  The  groups  at  each  side 
contrasted  most  beautifully 
with  this.  Green  predomin- 
ated, but  there  was  a  suf- 
ficiency of  flower,  while  beauty 
of  form  was  fully  developed 
In  the  centre  and  back  parts 
of  these  groups  were  tall  speci- 
mens of  the  common  sugar 
cane,  (Sacharinum  officiar 
urn,}  which  held  their  long 
and  boldly  arching  leaves  well 
over  the  group.  These  were 
supported  by  Palms,  which 
threw  their  graceful  lines  over 
the  specimen  Camellias,  which 
were  in  their  turn  graced  here 
and  there  by  the  presence  of  a 
Draccena  or  dwarf  Palm  ;  and 
so  down  to  the  front  edge, 
where  Cinerarias,  forced 
bulbs,  Primulas  and  Ferns, 
finished  off  the  groups,  all 
very  closely  placed,  so  that 
neither  the  lower  part  of  the 
stems,  nor  a  particle  of  any  of 
the  pots  could  be  seen 

"  Any  interstices  that  hap- 
pened    to     remain     between 

Fig.  4.— AK»V«  Americana.  the  bases  of  the  plants  were 

compactly  filled  with  fresh  green  moss,  which  was  also  pressed  against  the  little 
gilt  trellis  work,  which  enclosed  the  whole,  so  that  from  the  uppermost  point  of 
the  cane  leaves  to  the  floor,  nothing  was  seen  but  fresh  green  foliage  and  grace- 
ful forms  enshrouding  the  ordinary  flowers  of  our  greenhouses — that  are  infi- 


WINDOW  OARDBNINO. 


251 


nitely  more  attractive  when  thus  set  in  the  verdure  of  which  nature  is  so  profuse, 
and  which  is  always  so  abundant  where  her  charms  of  vegetation  are  at  their 
highest. 

"  A  scene  such  as  this  explains  the  prevalence  of  these  graceful  and  noble-leaved 
plants  in  Paris  gardens,  and  in  Parisian  flower  shops  and  windows,  for  you  may 
frequently  see  elegant  little  Dracaenas  ornamenting  windows  there,  and  as  they 


Fig.  5.— Dieflenbachia. 

look  as  well  at  Christmas  as  at  midsummer,  I  need  hardly  suggest  how  highly 
suited  they  are  for  purposes  of  this  kind. 

"  The  number  of  Dracaenas  cultivated  in  and  around  Paris  is  something  enor- 
mous, and  among  the  newer  species  of  these — not  alluding  to  the  colored-leaved 
kinds — are  some  that  combine  grace  with  dignity  as  no  other  plants  do  combine 
them.  They  are  useful  for  the  centres  of  noble  groups  of  plants  in  their  larger 
forms,  while  the  smaller  species  may  be  advantageously  associated  with  the 
Maiden  Hair  Fern,  and  the  Cineraria*  of  the  conservatory  bench. 


252 


WINDOW   GARDENING. 


"  They  are  of  the  greatest  utility  in  these  decorations,  and  are  largely  used  in  afl 
parts.  So  are  most  all  kinds  of  fine-leaved  plants,  from  Phormium  to  Ficus. 
Young  Palms  are  also  cultivated  to  an  enormous  extent  about  Paris  ;  and  so  is 
every  green  and  graceful-leaved  plant,  from  the  Cycads  to  the  common  trailing 
Ivy, — used  to  make  living  screens  of. 

"  The  wide  staircase  at  the  Hotel  de  Ville,  ascending  from  the  entrance  hall,  had 
also  a  charming  array  of  plants  so  placed  that  the  visitors  seemed  to  pass  through 
a  sort  of  floral  grove  ;  fine-leaved  plants  arching  over,  but  not  rising  very  high, 
and  having  a  profusion  of  flowering  things  among  and  beneath  them. 

"As  the  bank  of  Primu- 
las and  the  groups  of  tall 
plants  were  placed  opposite 
this  staii-case,  and  reflected 
in  the  great  mirror  behind, 
the  effect  when  descend- 
ing the  staircase  was  fasci- 
nating indeed.  A  still  finer 
effect  was  produced  in  a 
room  near  the  great  dancing 
saloon,  and  through  which 
the  guests  passed  to  the 
magnificent  ball  room. 
Against  each  pillar  in  this 
saloon  was  placed  a  palm 
with  high  and  arching  leaves 
like  those  of  the  Sieforthia 
elegans,  and  others  with 
larger  leaves  and  pendulous 
leaflets.  These  meeting, 
or  almost  meeting  across, 
produced  a  very  graceful 
and  imposing  effect,  while 
round  them  were  arranged 
other  plants,  distinguished 
either  by  leauty  of  leaf  or 
Fig.  c.-Begonia.  flower,  and  the  groups  at 

each  pillar  connected  by  single  rows  of  dwarf  plants,  closely  placed  however,  and 
well  mossed  in,  as  in  the  case  of  the  more  important  groups. 

"  The  very  close  placing  of  the  plants  is  a  peculiar  part  of  the  arrangement. 
You  can  not  notice  any  dividing  marks  or  gaps.  Yet  there  is  no  awkward  crowding. 
**  These  arrangements  were  infinitely  varied  at  the  great  balls,  both  public  and 
private;  rocks,  water  grottoes,  and  similar  decorations,  were  occasionally  intro- 
duced, both  indoors  and  in  the  open  air,  and  in  the  gardens  behind  private  houses. 


WINDOW  GARDENING.  253 

"  The  Tuilleries  gardens  at  the  time  of  the  great  fetes,  were  largely  decorated  in 
this  way — each  of  the  numerous  lamp-posts  having  a  bed  of  flowers  around  it, 
and  the  whole  scene  being  turned  into  a  kind  of  conservatory  in  a  few  days. 
The  number  of  flowers  required  to  do  this  was  something  enormous. 

"  The  extent  to  which  the  floral  embellishments  of  the  Hotel  de  Ville  were 
carried,  may  be  judged  from  the  great  number  of  plants  grown  at  Passy  for  that 
purpose, — the  New  Zealand  Flax,  which  is  so  very  useful  for  indoor  or  outdoor 
decoration,  being  grown  to  the  extent  of  upwards  of  10,000  plants  and  Palms, 
and  all  plants  with  fine  leaves  in  great  quantity. 

"One  plant,  cultivated  in 
great  abundance  around 
Paris  for  winter  blooming,  is 
well  worthy  of  increased  at- 
tention, Epiphyllum  trun- 
catum. 

"  There  are  several  varie- 
ties, and  they  certainly  form 
most  beautiful  objects  on 
dull  December  days. 
,  "  The  variegated  form  of 
the  common  Roast-beef  plant 
— Iris  foetidissima — may  be 
seen  occasionally  used  with 
good  effect.  This  is  a  true 
hardy  native  which  will 
deserve  culture.  It  forms  a 
very  pretty  plant  for  room 
decoration,  requires  none 
but  the  most  ordinary  at- 
tention, and  is  easily  ob- 
tained. 

"  The  Acanthuses,  too, 
and  particularly  A.  lusitani- 
cus  used  so  effectively  out  of 
doors,  are  also  grown  abun- 
dantly in  rooms,  where  they 
do  very  well.  Everything  Pig.  z-Yucca  aicefbiia. 

proved  to  do  well  without  the  protection  of  a  case  is  a  gain  to  the  very  large 
class,  who,  from  choice  or  necessity,  like  to  grow  plants  in  rooms." 

A  few  years  since  a  valuable  communication  on  this  subject  of  room  decora- 
tion was  given  by  a  French  gardener,  Antonine  Chantin,  of  Rue  de  Chatillon, 
Paris,  to  the  Floral  World  of  London.  Mentioning  the  most  popular  plants 
used  in  the  window  embellishments  of  the  French  Capital,  as  their  calture 


254  WINDOW   GARDENING 

seems  to  be  better  understood  in  that  city  than  any  other,  we  take  the  liberty  of 
quoting  a  few  of  his  statements : 

Palms. 

"  These  play  an  important  part  in  the  embellishment  of  apartments  in  Paris. 

Corypha  australis.    This  plant,  although  but  little  known,  is  destined  in  a 

short  time  to  occupy  a  foremost  place  in  the  decoration  of  apartments,  where 

it  makes  itself  conspicuous  by  its  peculiar  beauty,  and  the  number  of  its  leaves; 

it  is,  I  believe,  the  most  rustic  in  appearance  of  all  the  palms. 

Cocos  coronata  and  flexuosa  are  very  elegant,  and  produce  a  charming  effect. 
Chamcerops  humilis  and  excelsa,  are  two  very  fine  hardy  palms;   Latania 
borbonica  is  certainly  the  most  recherche  plant  of  the  family,  and  is  valued  as 
much  for  the  beautiful  green  of  its  leaves  as  for  its  elegant  appearance. 

Phoenix  dactylifera,  leonensis 
and  reclinata  are  also  very 
much  sought  after  and  are 
highly  esteemed.  Areca  alba, 
lutescens  and  rubra  are  distinct 
and  handsome.'1 

Ferns. 

Besides  what  we  have  said 
of  Ferns  in  a  previous  chapter, 
there  is  need  of  little  to  repeat 
here. 

Ferns   cannot  be    dispensed 
with  in  elaborate  decorations  for 
the  parlor  or  conservatory.     A 
Pig.  8.— Aiteruanthera.  single   plant    of   the   common 

Lady   Fern,  "  Athyrium  filixfcemina,"  is  as  useful  in  producing  a  graceful  ef- 
fect as  anything  we  know 

Mr.  Chantin  in  his  remarks  of  Parisian  decorations,  says: 
"  The  family  of  Ferns,  although  classed  among  plants  with  delicate  tissues,  and 
having  a  great  dislike  to  dry,  hot  atmosphere,  nevertheless  furnish  numerous 
examples  which,  with  careful  management,  add  very  much  to  the  beauty  of 
apartments.  Thus,  I  have  very  frequently  remarked,  several  species  of  Adian- 
tum,  which,  wherever  they  can  be  preserved  in  good  health,  produces,  without 
doubt,  a  most  ravishing  effect. 

Pteris  argyrea,  P.  cretica  albo  lineata,  and  P.  serrulata  variegata  also  pro- 
duce a  very  fine  effect,  with  their  prettily  marked  foliage. 

Alsophila  anstralis,  and  Ealantium  antarcticum  are  also  sometimes  employed 
for  decoration  purposes  in  rooms  of  large  dimensions,  where  their  magnificent 
appearance  never  fails  to  produce  a  very  imposing  effect." 


WINDOW  GARDENING  955 

Select  list  of  Ferns  for  Room  or  Table  Decorations. 
Adiantum  cuneatum,  Lomaria  ciliata, 

formosum,  Nephrolepis  exaltata, 

"        hispidulum,  Pteris  cretica  albo  lineata, 

Asplenium  flaccidum,  "     serrulata, 

marinum,  Lastrea  cristata, 

Blechnum  Brasiliense,  "      dilatata, 

"        corcovadense,  "       filix  mas  cristata, 

Athyrium  Filix  foemina,  Polystichum  angulare, 

"         f.  f.  Fieldii,  "  cristatum, 

Scolopendrium  vulgare  crispense,  "  proliferum. 

Lomaria  gibba, 

Orchids. 

"  Until  very  recently  I  had  believed  that  Orchids  would  never  flourish  if 
taken  from  the  greenhouses,  but  a  gardener  of  my  acquaintance  has  introduced 
them  while  in  bloom  into  a  drawing-room  with  perfect  success,  the  plants  not 
having  suffered  in  the  least  by  the  change  of  atmosphere." 

The  following  List  of  Orchids  is  very  suitable  for  rooms  : 
Barkeria  Skinneri,  Leptotes  bicolor, 

Aerides  Warneri,  Lycaste  Skinneri, 

Brassavola  Digbiana,  "      aromatica, 

Calanthe  vestita,  Mormodes  aromaticum, 

Chysis  Limminghi,  Oncidium  ampliatum, 

Cypripedium  barbatum,  "        flexuosum, 

venustum,  "        divaricatura, 

insignis;  "        cupreum, 

Dendrobium  nobile,  Pleione  maculata, 

pulchellum,  Sephronites  cernua, 

Epidendrum  vitellinum,  "          violacea. 

"  All  kinds  of  plants  bearing  flowers  have  paid  their  tribute  to  the  ornamen- 
tation of  rooms,  from  the  humble  mignionette,  upon  which  the  patient  seamstress 
loves  to  turn  her  weary  eyes,  to  the  magnificent  Orchid,  that  with  its  brilliant 
colors  and  fantastic  forms  fills  with  grace  and  beauty  the  apartments  of  the 
affluent." 

Miscellaneous  Plants. 

"The  following  plants  are  very  elegant  in  appearance,  but  require  considerable 
care  and  attention,  being  somewhat  difficult  for  ordinary  window  culture.  They 
are  more  suitable  for  frames  and  cases,  and  are  frequently  cultivated  in  that 
manner : 

Aralia,  several  species,  especially  Aralia  Sieboldii. 
Bambusa  japonica  variegata,  and  B.  Fortune!  variegata. 
Bromeliaceae,  most  varieties. 
Carludovica,  palmata  and  plicata. 


256 


WINDOW   GARDEN/NO. 


Croton  pictum,  C.  pictum  variegatum,  C.  discolor. 
Curculigo  recurvata. 

Ficus  elasticus.  This  is  a  very  elegant  plant  for  a  window  ornament,  but  now 
a  newer  and  much  prettier  variety,  Ficus  Chanvieri,  is  substituted  for  it  gener- 
ally. 

Isolepis  gracilis,  a  pretty 
rush,  is  most  elegant,  requires 
plenty  of  water. 

Musa.  Several  species  are 
favorites,  but  principally  M. 
discolor  and  M.  rosea.  Musa 
ensete  is  particularly  suitable 
for  window  culture,  but  it  is 
still  so  scarce  and  of  such  a 
price  as  seldom  to  be  met  with. 

Pandanus  amaryllifolius,  and 
Philodendron  pertusum,  have 
been  much  sought  after,  and  in 
most  places  thrive  so  well  as  to 
give  general  satisfaction. 

Several  varieties  of  Dasyli- 
rium  and  Beaucarnea  are  very 
suitable  for  rooms,  and  produce 
a  very  beautiful  and  graceful 
effect  when  grown  in  suspended 
vases  or  baskets. 

Rhopala  corcovadensis.  This 
plant  exhales  a  somewhat  dis- 
agreeable odor,  but  is  neverthe- 

Flg.  9.-Centanrea  gymnocarpa.  leSS    much   SOUght   after  On   aC- 

count  of  its  very  elegant  and  graceful  appearance  during  the  development  of  its 

young  leaves." 

In  addition  to  Mr.  Chantin's  list,  we  give  the  following,  which  will  live  in  a 

room  throughout  the  year,  provided  the  frost  is  kept  out  and  the  plants  are  kept 

free  from  dust.     AH  are  handsome  : 

"  Lomatia  elegantissima,  Aralia  leptophyllt. 

feiTUginea,  "      trifoliaU. 

silaifoha,  Rhopala  austraiis, 

polyantha,  Arundo  donax  variegata. 

Nerium  splendens, 

Pandanus  graminifolius  is  peculiarly  elegant,  being  well  adapted  for  use  in 
brackets. 

Cannas,  are  all  very  proper  subjects  for  the  house.  Take  them  up  before  frost, 


WINDOW  GARDENING. 


257 


keep  in  a  dry  cellar  through  the  winter,  then  bring  to  the  light  in  the  Spring 
and  they  will  start  and  grow  well. 

Mr.  B.  S.  Williams,  an  eminent  English  florist,  in  some  remarks  upon  the  sub 
ject  of  ornamental  plants,  adds  by  way  of  caution,  "a  fact  which  should  nevei 
be  lost  sight  of,  is  this  :  That  all  plants  with  soft  woolly  leaves  are  ill-adapted  foi 
this  purpose,  but  those  with  thick  coriaceous  leaves  are  always  preferable — such 
as  Dractenas,  Palms,  Crotons,  Anthurium,  Aloes,  Agaves  and  Ficuses,  amongst 
ornamental-leaved  plants,  and  Amaryllids,  Begonias,  Epiphyllums,  Acacias 
Azaleas,  Coronillas,  Cyclamens,  Salvias,  and  Statices  among  flowering  plants. 

"  The  ornamental-leaved  kinds  should  be  taken  into  an  outer  room  occasionally, 
and  have  their  leaves  carefully  sponged  with  warm  water  and  soap,  and  stand 
until  dry  before  removing  them  again  into  position.  This  operation  removes  all 
dust  and  dirt  which  may  have  accumulated,  gives  them  a  fresh  and  bright  appear- 
ance, and  is  of  vital  importance  to  their  well  being." 

He  furnishes  the  following  select  list  of  plants  eminently  adapted  for  the 
decoration  of  apartments: 


Ornamental-Leaved  Plants. 


Agave  Americana. 

"      variegata. 
Anthurium  leuconeurum. 

"          magnificum. 
Aralia  leptophylla. 
"       Sieboldii. 
"       reticulata. 
Araucaria  excelsa. 
Aucuba  japonica  (vars). 
Bambusa  arundinacea. 
Begonias  (variegated). 
Calamus  asperrimus. 
Caryota  sobolifera. 
Chamaedorea  Arenbergii. 

"  desmoncioides. 

Ernesti  Augusti. 

"  graminifolia. 

"  Hartwegii. 

"  Wendlandii. 

Chamaerops  Fortunei. 

"  humilis. 

Cocos  australis. 
Coleus  (many  varieties). 
Croton  angusti folium. 
**       variegatum. 


Cyperus  alternifoliusvariegatug. 
Dracaena  australis. 
"      Cooperi. 
"      ferrea. 
"      gracilis. 
"      indivisa  lineata. 
"      terminalis. 
Ficus  elastica. 
"     religiosa. 
Kentia  sepida. 
"       Bauerii. 
Latania  borbonica 
Lomatia  silaifolia. 
Morenia  corallina. 
Oreopanax  dactylifolium. 
Pandanus  utilis. 
Phoenix  dactylifera. 
Rhapis  flabelliformis. 
Sieforthea  elegans. 
Solanums  (Weatherill's  hybrids). 
Yucca  aloi folia  variegata. 
"      filamentosa  variegata 
"      quadricolor. 
"      Stokesii. 


17 


258  WINDOW   GARDENING. 

Ornamental  Flowering  Plants. 

Amaryllis  (all  varieties).  Dielytra  spectabilis. 

Acacia  armata.  Epiphyllum  truncatum  (varieties) 

"       Drummondii.  Eucharis  Aniazonica. 

"       grand  is.  Erica,  many  soft-wooded  kinds. 

"       Riceana.  Epacris  (all  varieties). 

Azaleas  (any  varieties).  Erythrina  Marie  Belanger. 

Begonia  Digswellensis.  Genista  Everestiana. 

"     fuchsioides.  "         racemo.sa. 

"     hybrida  iioribunda.  Gardenia  radicans  major. 

"    manicata.  Hebeclinium  ianthimum. 

"     odorata.  Lachenalia  (many  vars.) 

"     Weltoniensis.  Leucopogon  Richei. 

Camellias  (many  varieties).  Linum  flavum. 

Callicarpa  purpurea.  "       trigynum. 

Chrysanthemums.  Nerium  Oleander. 

Coronilla  glauca.  Poinsettia  pulcherrima. 

Cyclamen  Persicum  (var.)  Statice  profusa. 

Daphne  Indica  alba.  Vallota  purpurea. 

"         "      rubra. 

CHOICE  OF  PLANTS  AND  THEIR  ARRANGEMENTS. 
Drac&nas. 

The  most  popular  and  suitable  plants  for  gay  decoration  seem  now  to  be  thi» 
Draccenas. 

After  they  have  been  once  placed  in  the  window  box  or  jardinet,  the  attention 
they  require  is  but  ordinary,  and  they  will  live  in  the  atmosphere  of  any  mod 
eratel}  heated  room  the  year  round. 

The  variety  most  used  is  D.  terminalis,  very  easily  managed,  and  always  orna- 
mental ;  the  choice  among  florists  often  preponderates  in  favor  of  the  D.  ferrea 
stricta,  which  is  still  more  beautifully  variegated  ;  the  D.  gilfilla,  with  its  stripy. 
of  white  and  green,  still  rare,  is  a  great  novelty.  The  colored  leaved  D.  Coo^7\ 
and  the  green  leaved  D.  australis,  D.  indivisa,  D.  Veilclvii,  have  ail  an  eiegam 
habit,  and  will  do  well  in  the  temperature  of  any  sitting  room  ranging  from  60' 
to  75°. 

Other  varieties  will  do  well,  such  as  the  D.  cannaefolia,  congener,  rubra,  stricto 
and  nmbraculifera,  but  the  most  preferable  of  these  woulr1.  be  Ihe  rubra  and 
stricta. 

IMarantas. 

Next  in  turn  would  be  the  Marantas,  of  which  the  besl  varieties  would  be  M 
pulchella,  zebnna,  and  also  a  dwarf  variety  of  the  latter. 

The  zcbritia  is  much  the  most  popular  of  all  this  class,  and  according  to  tb« 
experience  of  French  gardeners,  is  the  only  one  suitable  for  steady  cultivation  in 
apartments,  as  all  the  others  succumb  to  the  hot  and  dry  atmosphere  insepara- 


WINDOW   GARDENING 


259 


bly  found  in  the  living  room.  Another  great  difficulty  in  the  use  of  tlieMaranta 
is  the  too  great  eagerness  to  display  in  the  window ;  the  leaves  being  large,  reach 
out  and  touch  the  window  pane.  When  cooled  with  the  touch  they  become  at 
once  of  sickly  look,  turn  yellow,  and  are  greatly  disfigured.  They  must  be 
kept  away  from  all 
cool  winter  air,  and 
thrive  best  in  a  hot, 
moist  location.  Do 
not  let  the  leaves  rest 
or  lie  upon  anything. 
The  Maranta  rosca 
picta  is  one  of  the 
most  exquisite  of  this 
class,  and  to  those 
who  have  conserva- 
tories, where  it  can 
temporarily  be  re- 
moved to  and  from 
the  parlor,  it  will  be 
well  worth  keeping. 

The  Poinsettia    pul- 
clierima. 

No  plant  o  f  the 
present  day  has  so 
striking  a  flower  or  is 
better  capable  for 
Parlor  Ornament  than 
this.  It  is  not  a  plant 
for  continuous  room 
culture,  but  only  for 
temporary  purposes, 
being  quite  tender, 
needing  a  tempera- 
ture of  75°,  and  even 
at  night  not  below  60°.  For  vases,  for  dinner  tables,  for  floral  decorations  of 
some  Etagere,  or  to  be  placed  in  front  of  a  handsome  looking  glass,  it  will  al- 
ways be  of  more  than  ordinary  merit. 

The  Gymnostacliyum  Verscli&ffeltii,  is  very  suitable  for  vases,  ai.d  in  our  illus- 
tration, Fig.  3,  is  used  in  a  handsome  silver  stand  and  glass  bowl  as  a  decoration 
for  the  table. 

Caladiums. 

The  variegated  Caladiums  are  very  desirable  for  decoration,  for,  besides  their 
gracefulness,  they  will  well  endure  the  transition  from  the  green  house  to  a  warm 


Fig.  10.— Dracaeua  terminalis. 


GARDEXIXG- 

drawing  room  or  boudoir,  without  any  marked  injury.  The  variegations  of  their 
foliage,  spotted  or  shaded  with  tints  of  green,  white,  red  and  pink,  are  very 
unique  and  beautiful.  The  best  sorts  are  as  follows  : 

Argyrites,  small  foliage,  prettily  spotted  and  blotched  with  white. 
Bicolor  splendens,  a  strong  grower,  green  ground  with  dark  red  centre. 

Chantini,  foliage  red, 
centre  spotted  with 
white. 

Wightii,  foliage 
green,  beautifully  spot- 
ted with  red  and  white. 
picture tu m,  1  o  n  g  > 
narrow  foliage,  band  of 
rosy  red  down  the  cen 
tre. 

Versclinffeltii,  green 
ground  with  crimson 
centre. 

The  best  soil  for  the 
C  a  1  a  d  i  u  m  is  fibrous 
loam,  and  plenty  of  leaf 
mould  and  silver  sand. 

Begonias* 

In  some  respects  the 
most  gorgeous  of  all 
plants  with  variegated 
leaves.  They  should  be 
mostly  as  single  plants, 
t.  e.  only  one  plant  in 
the  centre  of  each  box 
or  basket.  A  large 
leaved  Begonia  in  the 
Fig.  11.— uaiaiiinm.  window  imparts  an  in- 

describably rich  appearance.     The  following  are  best  varieties  : 

Begonia  Hex,  very  showy,  and  a  picturesque  plant  for  exhibition  purposes, 
leaves  very  broad,  under  side  deep  crimson,  upper  surface  colored  with  various 
spots  of  silvery  or  snowy  white. 

Fuchsiodies,  Saundersonii  and  parviflora  are   three   very  pretty   varieties  ; 
when  in  flower,  the  contrast  of  their  scarlet  rose  and  white  flowers  is  very  fine. 
B.  erecta  multiflora,  is  mentioned  by  some  florists,  as  especially  desirable,  for  it 
combines  the  two  qualities  of  flowers  and  foliage. 

B.  carnea  pink ;  B.  marmorata,  ?esh  color,  may  be  added;  the  first  are  white, 


WIND  0  W  GA  RDENIXG. 


261 


and  produce  abundantly,  and  the  latter  is  a  dark  bronze  of  medium  size,  com- 
bined with  an  erect  habit.  If  grown  well  it  is  very  fine  for  the  table. 

Cultivation  and  Care  of  Palms  for  the  House  and  Conservatory. 

A  few  years  ago  the  opinion  was  general,  that  palms  were  not  only  difficult  in 
cultivation,  but  on  account  of  their  size,  requiring  a  large  space,  only  suitable  for 
a  big  greenhouse  and  not  at  all  for  parlor  decoration.  Palms  in  the  mind  of  peo- 
ple were  imagined  to  be  of  im- 
mense size.  For  instance  :  the  In- 
dian Palmyra  and  Talipot  palms, 
the  slender  high  growingCocos  of 
the  islands  in  the  Indian  Ocean 
and  the  Pacific  Ocean,  the  grace- 
ful Sugar  and  Areca  palms,  or 
the  Palma  Real,  in  Cuba.  So  it 
happened  thai  after  some  descrip- 
tions of  our  celebrated  travelers, 
the  cultivation  of  palms  was 
nearly  left  untried.  "  Kings 
among  the  grasses,"  as  Alex, 
von  Ilumboldt  relates  in  his 
"Views  about  Nature"  how  in 
South  America  the  slender  tops 
of  several  species  reach  above  the 
highest  trees  of  the  forest.  Ad 
miration  for  glorious  growth  of 
the  greater  number  of  palms  for- 
bade the  introduction  into  our 
small  gardens  and  parlors,  while 
the  form  of  palms  of  pinnatisect 
fronds  with  fan  or  umbrella- 
shaped  fronds,  like  Corypha  and 
Chamaerops,  Trinax,  Mauritia 
and  Sabal  species  called  to  great 
interest  and  induced  to  a  study  Fig.  12.  Begonia,  grown  on  bracket 

of  the  physiognomy  of  them.  Consequently  numerous  kinds  of  species  came 
into  trade  and  were  civilized  in  our  greenhouses.  If  we  take  in  consideration 
how  very  few  kinds  of  palms  (in  Linnaeus  time)  were  known  (about 
40  species),  and  how  the  lively  period  of  culture  of  palms  begins  about  25  years 
ago,  and  how  during  this  time  nearly  400  species  were  cultivated  in  European 
Gardens,  we  comprehend  clearly  that  palms  are  not  difficult  to  cultivate,  many 
of  them  even  fit  for  small  arrangement.  Induced  by  Alexander  von  Ilumboldt, 
it  was  tried  first  to  stud}r  their  finding  places  and  distribution  in  the  primitive 
forests,  in  the  Littorals  and  on  the  plateaus  of  the  Andes,  and  according  to  this 


WINDOW   GARDENING. 


their  culture  commenced.  Plenty  of  seed  of  a  great  many  species  of  palms  was 
acquired,  and  as  soon  as  young  plants  were  raised  they  showed  the  interesting 
habit  of  the  old  big  plants.  Dwarf  kinds  of  palms  were  discovered  and  it  was 
soon  understood  how  well  they  were  suited  for  parlor  decoration.  These  species 
of  palms,  which  grow  often  on  the  elevated  points  of  the  mountains  by  a  sinking 
temperature,  were  also  recognized  to  be  fit  for  cultivation  in  the  open  air  during 
the  summer  season.  China,  Japan,  Hindoostan,  Australia,  Mexico,  South 
America,  provi'-led  us  with  the  best  species. 


Fig.  13.    Palm  for  Table  Decoration. 

We  presume  that  now,  as  palms  have  been  proved  to  be  the  most  useful  and 
durable  parlor  plants,  and  as  they  can  be  purchased  at  a  low  price,  they  will  soon 
be  favorites  of  our  parlors  and  small  house  gardens.  To  cultivate  palms  well  it 
is  necessary  to  plant  them  into  flowerpots,  which  are  one-third  longer  than  the 
ordinary  kind  of  pots,  of  about  the  same  proportion  as  Hyacinth  pots.  Nearly 
^11  genuine  palms  root  deeply  in  the  bottom. 


WINDOW   GARDENING, 


26. H 


2(54  WINDOW  GARDENING. 

We  mention :  The  growth  of  the  Oocos  in  loose  sand  on  the  sea  coast,  and 
several  species  which  grow  in  dense  moist  woods,  in  the  richest  humus,  or  others 
in  deep  alluvial  bottoms,  near  great  rivers.  The  care  of  roots,  letting  them 
freely  go  deeply  into  pots,  will  be  recompensed  by  the  better  and  quicker  growth 
of  the  plants.  The  mould  for  palms  is  to  be  a  rich  and  well  drained  one;  a 
compost  of  one  part  of  good  old  manure,  and  the  other  part  of  rich  loam,  which 
could  be  mixed  with  some  sharp  sand  and  peat.  The  pots  need  a  good  drainage, 
and  palms  planted  in  this  manner  can  be  plentifully  watered  during  the  summer 
months.  He,  who  will  put  his  palms,  which  served  for  decoration  for  a  parlor 
in  the  winter  season,  into  the  open  air  during  the  summer  months,  in  some  shady 
sheltered  places,  will  keep  them  for  many  years,  strong  and  healthy. 

Several  species  endure  to  be  planted  in  gardens  and  to  be  treated  like  bedding 
plants.  But  in  replanting  them  into  pots  in  the  autumn,  it  is  absolutely  neces- 
sary to  take  great  care  of  the  roots.  No  defect  must  be  done  to  the  end  points  and 
very  carefully  they  have  to  be  digged  out.  The  leaves  of  the  palms  are  to  be  kept 
clean,  free  from  all  dust  and  insects,  and  we  recommend  to  wet  them  sometimes 
with  a  sponge.  Should  big  pots  be  used  for  palms,  small  ferns  and  plants 
may  be  grown  with  them  at  the  same  time,  as  this  will  not  the  least  disturb 
the  growing  of  palms,  but  will  produce  a  splendid  group,  palms  and  ferns 
together. 

We  give  an  instance :  with  a  Latania  borbonica  (Livistonia),  the  Pteris  serrulata, 
Adiantum  Capillus  Veneris,  cuneatum,  tenerum,  pubescens,  formosum,  Pteris 
hastata;  Davallia,  canariensis,  pydata,  and  several  kinds  of  Selagmella,  Trades- 
cantia,  Isolepis  and  Ficus  stipularis.  Other  plants,  with  palm-like  habitus, 
which  are  nevertheless  no  true  palms,  may  be  treated  and  used  exactly  like  real 
palms,  as:  Cycas  revoluta,  Lamia,  Encephalartos,  Pandanus,  Charludovica 
palmata,  Lamatophyllum,  borbonicum  and  Strelitzia,  etc.  We  give  in  the  follow 
ing  list  only  such  plants,  which  are  well  suited,'  as  we  know  by  long  experience 
for  window  gardening,  and  besides,  are  not  expensive  to  purchase. 

Our  American  ladies  will  surely  not  neglect  this  species  of  palms,  as  they 
deserve  to  take  the  first  place  among  plants,  on  account  of  their  beauty  and 
durability. 

Several  kinds  of  palms  grow  slowly  and  serve  thus  for  many  years  as  decora- 
tions in  rooms  before  they  grow  too  big. 

List  of  Palms  for  a  well-heated  room  or  parlor. 

1.  Palms  with  primatisect  fronds  :  Areca  rubra,  pumila,  lutescens,  aurea,*Ba- 
ueri ;  Astrocaryum  Ayri,Elais  Guine-ensis  ;  Caryota  urens,  sobolifera;  *Ceroxy- 
lon  andicola ;  Chamaedorea  gracilis,  graminifolia,  desmoncoides,  elegans ;  Ernesti 
Augusti,  *lunata,  *Schiedeana,  pygmaea,  *elatior,  *Mexicana ;  Cocos  plumosa, 
oleracea,  Euterpe  edulis  ;  *Jubaea  spectabilis,  (Cocos  chilensis) ;  Oreodoxa  regia, 
Sancona;  Oenocarysus  frigida;  *Phcenix  dactilifera,  *reclinata,  *silvestris,  farini- 
fera,  *Sieforthia  elegans. 

2.  Palms  with  fan-shaped,  or  umbrella-shaped  fronds  :  *Chamaerops  humilis. 


WINDOW  GARDENING.     .  265 

*excelsa,  *Fortunei,  stauracantha,  *histrix  ;  *Corypha  minor  (Sabal,)  *Palmetto 
(Sabal  and  Chamaerops,)  maritima,  miraguama ;  Trinax  barbadensis,  argentea, 
*Livistonia  australis  (Corypha),  sinensis ;  *(Latania  borbonica),  Rhapis  flabelli- 
forrais. 

3.  Plants  with  a  habit  like  palms,  belonging  to  the  Cyclan these,  Pandanese 
and  Cycadeae;  Charludovica  atrovirens,  palmata;  Pandanus  graminifolius,  java- 
nicus,  fol.  var.,  utilis,  odoratissimus,  amaryllidifolius,  pumilus,  *Cycas  revoluta, 
Ceratozamia  Mexicana,  (Zamia)  ;  Macrozamia  spiralis  (Zamia),  Zamia  muricata. 

Those  species  marked  (*)  can  be  kept  in  a  moderate  temperature. 

Floral  Decorations — Suggestions  and  Plans  for  Arrangement. 

Graceful  Grasses,  Lilies,  Gladiolus,  and  other  flowers  with  long  flower  stalks, 
stand  best  in  vases  or  high  urns ;  but  Magnolias,  Passion  Flowers,  Water  Lilies, 
Paeonies,  &c.,  look  well  in  flat  basins. 

Plants  for  large  flower  stands,  windows,  or  the  back  ground  of  a  room,  must 
be  carefully  chosen.  Every  plant  which  extends  its  leaves  equally  all  around  the 
central  stem,  may  be  advantageously  used,  either  singly  or  as  the  centre  of 
flower  stands — such  as  Palms,  Dracaenas,  Yuccas,  Aralias,  &c.,  &c 

Plants  for  windows  must  have  a  showy  form  to  look  well,  not  only  from 
outside,  but  also  in  the  room.  Place  the  biggest  plant  just  in  the  centre  of  the 
window  to  interrupt  the  monotony  of  the  whole  line.  Choose,  amongst  other 
plants  for  this  purpose,  the  following :  Ficus  elastica,  Dracaenas,  Ardisia  crenu 
lata,  with  red  or  white  berries,  or  an  Epiphylum  truncatum  grafted  on  stock 
of  Pereskia.  Besides  the  season  allows  a  proper  selection  of  plants  for  decora- 
tion. Decorate  your  windows  in  early  spring  time  with  the  following  plants  as: 
Lilies  of  the  Valley,  Crocus,  Hyacinths,  Narcissus,  Jonquilles,  Scilla  Sibirica, 
early  Tulips,  some  kinds  of  Iris,  Primula  Chinensis,  Primula  veris,  Cycla- 
men Persicum,  Neapolitan  Violets,  Hepatica,  Triloba,  Cinerarias  ;  Dielytra 
Spectabilis,  Roses,  Amaryllis  formosissima.  Or  later  in  the  month  of 
April  and  May  try  to  procure  the  following  choice  flowering  plants  as : 
Deutzia  gracilis,  Calla  (Richardia)  Aethiopica  minor,  Azaleas  in  full  bloom, 
Citrus  Sinensis,  Camellias,  with  their  splendid  foliage  and  rich  blossoms,  some 
Ericas,  Daphne  cneorum,  Blue  Lobelias,  Nirembergia  filicaulis,  double  Petu- 
nias, etc.  Ladies  or  lovers  of  plants  cannot  well  suppose  that  there  is  any 
scarceness  iu  plants  at  this  time  in  the  year,  for  you  will  find  enough  in  the  flower 
market  to  satisfy  every  desire.  And  how  easy  is  the  cultivation  and  the  treat- 
ment of  the  beautiful  children  of  the  Flora  !  Only  a  Tegular  watering  and  the 
moisture  of  air  by  saucers  placed  under  the  pots ;  full  light  and  fresh  air  by  re- 
peated opening  of  the  windows  on  clear,  sunny  spring  days  is  all  which  is  re- 
quired for  keeping  them  in  good  condition.  Their  rich  colors,  their  sweet  per- 
fume and  delicate  or  interesting  shape  of  flower  will  recompense  fully  each  litt;3 
trouble,  which  will  be  bestowed  on  them.  In  summer,  when  the  parlor  needs 
only  an  occasional  decoration,  as  by  festivities,  parties,  and  so  on,  choose  for 


266 


WINDOW   GARDENING. 


decoration  fine  Fuchsias  in  flower,  Gardenias,  Hybiscus  rosa  sinensis  fl.  pi.,  dou- 
ble and  single  flowering  Petunias,  Heliotropes,  different  kinds  of  Coleus  and 
Iresine  Lindeni,  or  some  small  kinds  of  Ferns;  or  for  a  larger  decoration  only 
plants  with  large  lucent  leaves,  as  :  Ficus  elastica,  Palms,  Musa,  Strelitzia,  Ara- 
lias,  Yuccas,  Pandanus,  Marantas,  Cyperus  alternifolius,  and  some  larger 
kinds  of  Ferns. 

Autumn  offers  a  good  variety  of  flowers   and  plants,    rrhich  do   not   require 
much  care.      The  longing   for  flowers  awakens,  when  the  rough  -winds    of 

autumn  tells  us  that  winter  is 
coming,  and  that  the  eye  will 
in  vain  look  out  for  joyful  col- 
ors and  shining  leaves  ;  when 
nature  is  dead,  then  comes  the 
desire  to  have  some  laughing 
children  of  the  Flora  round  our 
warm  hearth,  that  we  may  en- 
joy their  sweet  odor  and  their 
graceful  shape.  It  is  a  fact  that 
a  great  many  plants  are  culti 
vated  by  florists  for  decoration 
in  the  winter  season.  He  who 
has  a  greenhouse  of  his  own 
may  have  the  pleasure  to  cul- 
tivate for  himself:  Hyacinth, 
Tulips,  Crocus,  Narcissus  and 
other  bulbous  plants,  which  can 
he  planted  in  fancy  flower  pots 
or  Hyacinth  glasses. 

There  is  some  poetical  charm, 
having  early  in  February  or 
March,  those  messengers  of 
spring  at  your  home.  We  men- 
tion some  other  forced  plants  of 
incomparable  beauty.  For  in- 
stance :  Scilla  Sibirica,  Hepatica 
triloba  and  H.  angulosa,  Rus- 
sian and  Neapolitan  Violets, 
Cyclamen  Persicum,  Hosteya  ja- 
ponica,  Primula  chinensis,  Primula  acaulis  flore  pleno,  Delphinium  formosum,  Om- 
phalodes  verna,  Phlox  verna,  Adonis  vernalis,  Iris  Susianaand  Persica,  Fritillaria 
meleagris,  Anemone  nemorosa  fl.  pi.,  PulmonariaVirginicia,  SanguinariaCana- 
densis  and  forced  Rosa  Thea,  and  Rosa  Bengalensis.  For  autumn  decoration 
choose  from  the  great  number  of  blooming  plants  ;  the  latest  in  the  season  and 
well  suited  for  these  decorations,  by  their  compact  low  growth,  is  the  Daisey-like 


Fig.  15.     Parlor  Fountain  and  Flowpr  Stand. 


WINDOW  GARDENING. 


267 


or  Pompone  Chrysanthemums.  Later  in  the  winter  season,  when  flowers  becom« 
rare,  you  can  have  plants  with  large  and  beautiful  foliage,  whose  form  and  lively 
green  is  very  agreeable  to  the  eye.  Are  you  an  admirer  of  Cactus?  You  find 
in  November  a  certain  species  of  Cactus  flowering  ;  the  Epiphyllum  truncatum. 
It  is  a  matter  of  importance  to  arrange  plants  that  every  shape  and  part  maybe 
seen;  to  make  the  composition  light  and  graceful  by  putting  ferns  and  grass-liko 
plants  between  others 
with  large  leaves,  for 
instance :  Ficus  elas- 
tica,  F.  Cooperi,  F. 
australis,  Abutilon 
Thomsonii,  A  r  a  1  i  a 
Sieboldii,  A.  lepto- 
phylla,  A.  papyrifera, 
Camellias  and  Azaleas 
with  Cy penis  alterni- 
folius,  Panicum  plica- 
turn,  Phomium  te- 
nax,  Polypodium  au- 
reum,  Dicksonia  um- 
b  r  o  s  i  a,  Nephrolepis 
exaltata,  Ophiopogon 
saburan,  Japonic  um 
and  spicatum,  Isole- 
pis  pygmaea,  Pteris 
arguta,  hastata  an  d 
serrulata,  for  one 
large  group.  Put  f<  >1- 
lowing  plants  in  the 
window  :  Ardisia  cre- 
nulata,  with  red  ber- 
ries in  the  centre  and 
for  each  side ;  Citrus 
Sinensis,  with  small 
gold  yellow  oranges, 
Daphne  odorata,  Olea 
fragrans,  Nardosmia 

fragrans  (TllSSilagO,)  Fig.  1«.     Ornamental  Flower  Stand. 

Convallaria  majalis,  Gardenia  citriodora,  blue  Cinneraria,  Rosa  Lawrenceana, 
Bouwardia  jasminiflora  and  splendida,  Selaginella  umbrosia,  Eranthemum 
tuberculatum,  Sanchezia  nobilis,  Eucharis  Amazonica,  Vallota  purpurea, 
Sprekelia  lutea,  Ornithogalum  aureum  and  Adiantum  capillus  Veneris. 

It  will  be  nice  to  group  in  a  flower  stand  some   smaller   plants   round  a   big 
one.      Take   for   instance   for   the   centre  :  Curculigo  recurvn-t 


268 


1 1 7J\7>  0  W   GA  RDEN1NG . 


gesta,  Dr.  ferrea,  Dr.  terminalis,  Dr.  australis,  D.  Brasiliensis,  Dr.  rubra, 
Latania  borbonica,  Cryptomeria  Japonica,  Araucaria  imbricata,  Yucca 
llaccida,  Aralia  papyrifera,  longifolia;  or  a  little  orange  tree,  round  which  are 
grouped  by  size:  Ferns  with  long  fronds,  as  Blechnum  australe,  spicatum  and 
B.  frasineum,  Pteris  arguta,  Pteris  longifolium,  Aspidium  violascens,  A.  molle, 
Asplenium  dccursive,  pinnatum,  Cyrtomium  falcaturn,  Osmunda  cinnamomea 
and  regalis,  Struthiopteris  Germanica  ;  and  for  the  outline  of  this  group,  small 
plants  of  Camelia,Azalia,  Gardenia  radicans,  Myrtus,  Aucuba,  Magnolia  fusca 

Eugenia  australis,  Plecto 
gyne  variegata,Rhucus  acu 
leatus,  R.  racemosus,  Che 
nnpodium  lanatum,  Alys- 
sum  maritimum,  fol.  var., 
and  Carex  japonica,  fol.  var. 

Now  to  decorate  a  small 
parlor,  which  is  daily  used 
and  has  a  higher  tempera- 
ture, take:  Several  Dra- 
caenas, small  Palms,  Pan- 
danus  utilis,  Philodendrum 
pertusum,  Alocasia  macror- 
rhiza,  fol  .var.,  A.  Jenningii, 
A.  metallica,  A.  arborea, 
Croton  pictum,  and  C.  va- 
riegatum,  and  different 
species  of  Maranta,  Ama- 
ryllis Tessani,  A.  solandrae 
flora,  A.  vittata  and  A, 
regina,  Vallota  purpurea, 
Pitcairnea  punicea,  Aech- 
maea  fulgens,  Tillandsia 
farinosa,  pyramidalis  and 
amoena. 

A  composition  of  plants 
with  thick  and  fleshy  leaves 
Fig.  n.   Flower  BOX  and  tree  trellis.  and  branches   is  attractive 

and  interesting.  For  instance,  for  the  centre  of  the  group  :  Echeveria  gran- 
diflora,  metallica,  or  E.  sanguinea,  or  Sempervivum  arboreum,  fol.  var.,  grafted 
Epiphyllum,  or  Opuntia  Brasiliensis,  surrounded  by  Mammillaria,  Echinocactus, 
Echeveria,  secunda  glauca,  Aloe  retusa,  Sempervivum  Californicum,  Aloe  mar- 
garitifera,  Sedum  Sieboldii,  fol.  var. 

It  is  some  years  since  very  successful  and  lasting  efforts  have  been  made  to 
••wiltivate  air  plants  (Orchids)  in  the  room,  (they  have  lately  become  cheaper.) 


WINDOW   GARDENING. 


269 


Nothing  indeed  can  be  more  charming  as  flower  stands  in  rustic  style,  covered 
with  these  interesting  plants,  mixed  with  Ferns,  Selaginella,  New  Orleans  moss, 
Jillandsiausneoides,Nidularia,  Aechmaea  and  Pitcairna.  Of  Orchids,  are  re- 
commended the  following  :  Cattleya,  Laelia,  L}rcaste,  Maxillaria,  Oncidion,  Odon- 
toglossum,  Schomburgkia,  Acropera,  Acineta,  Epidendron,  Gongora,  Lygopeta- 
lum  and  Brassia  species. 
For  wardian  cases  the 
smallest  sp<-cies  of  Or- 
c  h  i  d  s  and  especially 
various  kinds  of  Anec- 
tochylus,  with  their  sil- 
ver and  golden  veins  in 
the  leaves  are  very  de- 
sirable; also  the  very 
interesting  D  i  o  n  a  e  a 
muscipula  which  is  one 
of  our  native  orchids  as 
well  as  Goodyera  pu- 
bescens;  place  them  to- 
gether with  several  kinds 
of  ferns.  A  glass  case 
filled  with  these  plants 
is  an  elegant  ornament 
for  the  parlor.  Other 
Orchids  only  cultivated 
in  pots  will  do  well  for 
window  decoration. 
Take  for  this  purpose  : 
Bletia  hyacinthina,  Li- 
modorum,  Tankervillae, 
(Phajus  grandifolius), 
Cymbidium  oloefoliurn 
and  C.  ensi folium,  Ca- 
lanthe  vestita  and  vera- 
trifolia,  and  various 
species  of  Cypripedium. 

It    Shows      a    refined  Fig.  in.     Flower  Hox  witli  arbor  aud  climbm-;  vines. 

taste  to  decorate  with  air  plants,  ferns  and  fine  climbing  plants  as  :  Cissus  discolor, 
Kctrites,Melaleuca,  Miconia  speciosa,  Pothosargyraea,  Echites  argyraea  violacea, 
Passifiora  trifasciata,  k'ermesina,  and  P.  princeps,  Dioscorea  discolor,  Manettiabi- 
color,  Thunbergia  chrysops,  Th.  grandifiora  and  Th.  laurifolia.  Avoid  plants 
with  soft  and  downy  leaves  and  employ  more  Ferns,  Grasses  or  even  Caladias 
and  plants  with  smooth  leaves  as  they  are  more  lasting  for  this  purpose  than 
the  so-called  Bedding  plants  which  are  more  suitable  for  out  of  door  cultivation 


270 


\vr\rxnv  <;. -\KprM\if. 


Foramples  and  hanging  lamps,  wo  recommend  a  plant  of  great  value  ; 
deli ne  vicipara,  now  called  Cloro  phy ton  Stcrnborgianum  ;    known  a  long   tune 
in  Gardens.      It  produces  on  I  -oat    many  young  plants 

with  air  roots;  is  therefore  useful  hy  this  habit  for  Orchid  stands  and  basket?. 
In  lanror  parlors  which  arc  only  moderately  heated,  plants  from  greenhouses 
intl  conservatories  c:ui  be  selected  f.»r  a  required  decoration.  Thebes: 


Fijr.  1».    Flowr  RUnd  frr  Parlor  Wind"*. 

would  be:    Azaleas,  Camelli:  id  grafted  Citrus  aurantium. 

Daphne  laureola,  odorata,  Cnoomm ;  Olca  fmgrans;  Eugo:v.:i  australis;  Crypto 
meria  Juponica,  Cephalotaxus  Fortunei,Uhotlodendrums.  Kalmia.  Ilex  aquetblium 
fol.  var,  Aucuba  Japon«ca  and  its  varieties,  Viburnum  Tinus  with  fine  white 
flowers  in  winter,  Lauras  nobilis,  regalls  and  L.  Camphora.  Trisuiiia  lauriua. 


H  Y.  V/>  0  W    G  A  li  I)  K. V A V  'V . 


271 


Eucalyptus  globulus,  Melianthus  major,  Mclia  A7/:darach,  Sida.Japonica,  Oestrum 
aarantiacuiM,  Melaleuca  alba,  decussata,  ovalifolia  and  hypericifolia;  and  Eryo- 
botna  japouica.  lie  who  is  fond  of  more  tropical  plant.-,  should  use  in  such  mode- 
rate ternpeiature  :  Aralia  Sieboldii,  1-ptophylU,  quinqiicfoli*;  Solanum  Warsce- 


ril»i,  robuKtum;  Caladium  viol aceara,  cup rcum  (ix^ihyroncurum),  Caladium 
Jayanicum ;  Hedycbitim  Gardneriannm,  Bambu»a  3Ieuke,  Chamaerops  For- 
tonci;  Phonnium  tenax,  Dianella  cacrulea, Kuellia  varianx,  So1and;a grsndi flora, 


272 


WIND 0  W   GA  RDENINO. 


Brugtnansia  arhorea  fl.  pi.,  Sabal  minor  (Corypha"),  Charaaerops  Palmetto 
(corypha)  of  Ferns  especially  :  Balantium  antarcticum,  Blechnum  australe  ; 
Cyrtomium  falcatum,  Cyathea  australis  and  Cyathea  roedullaris.  All  these 
plants  are  very  durable  and  easy  in  cultivation  for  a  low  temperature  and  do 
not  require  much  light.  They  keep  during  the  winter  the  full  foliage  and  many 
of  them  will  bloom  at  this  season.  Plants,  like  Acacia  lophanta,  drop  the  leaves 
often  in  winter  and  require  much  light  and  a  careful  treatment.  It  is,  as  we  have 
said,  most  important  to  put  saucers  under  the  pots  ;  it  prevents  the  draining 


Ki«.  21.    Aquarium,  with 

water  from  flowing  over.     The  complaints  of  ladies  that  plants  spoil  the  furni- 
ture will,  if  this  caution  is  employed,  be  left  away. 

The  following  illustrations  will  explain  the  method  how  to  treat,  arrange 
and  plant  the  different  objects  suitable  for  putting  plants  for  decoration : 
This  can  be  a  guide  for  graceful  arrangements  to  every  one  who  has  a  passion 
f'T  these  sweut  beings,  leaving  enough  room  to  develop  a  refined  good  taste,  and 
;.  ^ming  with  it  the  admiration  of  all.  In  some  respects  plants  are  like  animals, 


WINDOW  GARDENING. 


273 


looking  out  for  their  own  particular  society.  You  are  not  to  mix  Dra- 
caenas with  Pelargoniums,  or  Ferns  with  high  Calceolarias,  Ageratum,  Petu- 
nias, Matricarias,  etc.;  these  combinations  would  be  against  the  habit  of  such 
plants.  But  you  may  combine  well  Ferns  and  Grasses  with  plants,  having  beauti- 
ful lucent  leaves  like  Caladias,  Linas,  etc. ;  every  Fern  possesses  the  quality  for 
softening  the  greatest  contrast.  Of  piants  with  variegated  and  silver  leaves,  chooso 


only  such,  which  go  well  with  other  plants,  and  arrange  like  this:  Centaurea 
gymnoca-pa,  candidissima  and  C.  plumosa,  Ciuneraria  maritima  and  Artemissia 
argentea,  as  a  single  plant;  or  in  the  centre  of  a  group,  surrounded  by  low 
plants,  in  rich  flowering  state,  as:  Rosa  Lawrenciana,  Lobelia  ramosa  and 
erinoides,  Iberis  sempervivens,  Dianthus  Chinensis  and  imperialis  flore  pleno, 

18 


274 


WIND  0  W   G  ARDENING. 


Cuphea  ytatycentra,  Anemone  coronaria,  Sanvitalia  procumbens  fl.  pi  Primula 
sortusoides,  Gazania  splendens,  Geum  coccineum,  Ajuga  reptans  fol.  var.,  Arabis 
ilbida  fol.  var.,  Cyclamen  Persicum  and  Coum,  Saxifraga  sannentosa,  Cerastiurn 
tomentosum,  Myosotis  Azorica,  Ornithogalum  aureum,  Erinus  alpinus  Calan- 
drina  umbellata,  Viola  cornuta,  lutea  and  Viola  odorata  the  Czar,  Campanula 
pulla  (pussilla),  C.  soldanellifolia,  Vidali,  Garganica,  cochlearifolia  and  Solda- 
nella  alpina.  Collect  of  all  these  plants  as  the  season  allows. 

Fig.  20  is  a  low  flower 
stand,  best  placed  in  front 
of  a  high  looking  glass, 
or  in  summer  in  front  of 
a  fireplace.  Such  llower 
stand  requires  mostly 
plants  with  ornamental 
and  variegated  foliage,  to 
be  seen  fnnn  above.  For 
instance,  all  the  varieties 
of  Begonia  Rex,  hydro- 
cotyledes,  m  a  n  i  c  a  t  a, 
Wai  csewitzii,  D  r  e  g  e  i, 
srnaragdina,  stigmosa, 
Pearcei  and  ricimfolia  ; 
different  Caladias,  San- 
chezia  nobilis,  Maranta 
zebrina,  pardina,  vittata, 
regalis,  and  Lindeni,  sur- 
rounded by  Torenia  Asi- 
atica,  Hoy  a  carnosa,  Tra- 
descantia  discolor,  Gym- 
nostachys  Pearci,  Pepe- 
romia  argyraea,  P  i  1  e  a 
m  u  s  c  o  s  a  and  various 
kinds  of  Gesneria  and 
Gloxinia. 

Fig.  21,  an  Aqnarium 
covered  by  a  little  arbor, 
to  be  used  for  window 
decoration  or  flower 
tables.  Plants,  as  the 

Cut  sllOWS  US,  are  : 


Fig.  23.    Flower  Basket  with  Gold-fish  basin. 

rns  alternifolius,  Calla  aethiopica  minor,  [ris  faetidissima,  Acones  graminifolius 
and  Isolepis  parlatoris.  For  climbing  plants,  which  will  well  cover  the  arbor, 
lake:  Pilogyne  suavis,  Tropseolum  tri-colorum  or  Smilax  microphylla  (Medeol* 
a.spaj-agoides.^ 


WINDOW  GARDENING.  275 

Fig.  22  represents  a  Glass  rotunda  or  Bell  Glass,  surrounded  by  different  dwarf 
plants  exposed  to  dry  air,  as :  Lychnis  Haageana,  Spigelia  Marilandica,  Mimu- 
lus  quinquovulneris,  Convolvulus  Mauritanicus  and  Calcaeolaria  rugosa  flori- 
bunda.  The  inside  plants  are  like  those  which  are  proposed  for  Wardian  cuses, 
requiring  the  same  treatment.  Such  well  filled  and  well  arranged  Bell  glasses  are 
beautiful  ornaments  for  the  table  at  festivities. 

Fig.  23  The  flower  basket,  with  goldfish  basin,  is  very  cheerful  to  look  at 
when  standing  in  a  bay  window  or  on  a  table.  It  is  charming  to  see  the  lively 
and  graceful  little  animals  swimming  about  between  the  carefully  arranged 
plants.  Plant  in  this  basket  the  neat:  Rosa  Bengalensis,  Agrippina,  Crocus, 
Snowdrops,  Lily  of  the  Valley,  Lephyranthus  candidus ;  Verbena  var.,  kinds : 
Nesembryanthemum  cordifolium,  Carex  Japonicus,  fol.  var.,  Sweet  Alyssum  and 
blue  Lobelias. 

Fig.  1  is  a  low  flower  stand  for  Tropical  plants,  covered  with  a  falling  veil  to 
protect  plants  against  the  dust.  Place  it  in  front  of  a  large  looking  glass,  which 
will  heighten  the  effect.  Only  large  Tropical  plants  can  be  used  here  for  decora- 
tion. Such  are  :  Dracaenas,  Bambusa,  Hedychium,  Alpinia  nutans,  Curculigo 
recurvata,  Pothos,  macrophylla,  Anthurium,  Philodendron  pertusum  and  Palms 
as  :  Chamaedorea  lunata,  elatior,  gracilis ; — Cycas  revoluta,  Rhapis  flabelliformis, 
and  large  ferns  as:  Blechnun  australe  and Brasiliense,  Pteris,  argyroneura  and 
tricolor,  Pteris  arguta  and  hastata,  Poly  podium  aureum,  Nephrolepis  exaltata, 
Cyathea  medullaris  and  australis;  Pteris  cretica  alba  and  Cyrtomium  falcatum. 

Fig.  24.  This  flower  stand  consists  of  wire  or  fine  willow  work  prettily 
adorned  at  the  bottom  with  Berlin-wool,  or  bead  work  done  up  by  the  fingers  of 
a  lady.  It  serves  especially  for  keeping  cut  flowers  which  have  to  be  put,  to 
give  them  more  durability,  in  wet  sand.  Toy  or  Passion  flowers  climb  round  at 
the  sides,  and  Pelargonium  pedatum,  Fragaria  Indica,  Saxifraga,  Vinca  major 
fol.  var.  Sweet  Alyssum  mixed  with  Lobelias  decorate  the  upper  part  of  the 
stand. 

Fig.  25  is  one  of  the  handsomest  of  parlor  decorations  ;  a  sofa  shaded  by 
big  plants  with  imposing  foliage  as  on  Fig  7. 

Place  for  the  warm  season  plants  like  this :  Melianthus  major,  Canna,  various 
kinds,  Uhdea  pinna! ifida,  Solanum  robustum,  laciniatum,  Warcsewitzii;  Amar- 
anthus  bicolor  coccineus ;  Iresine  and  Alternanthera,  Coleus,  Fuchsia,  Hybiscus, 
Plumbago,  Gardenia  florida,  and  Fortunei;  Abutilon  Thomsonii  and  Mesopota- 
micum,  fol.  var.,  Chrysanthemum  Sensation,  Osmunda  cinnamomea,  Struthio- 
pterisGermanica,Adiantum  pedatum,  Onoclea  sensibilis,  Heliotrope,  Jasminum 
gracile,  Rosa  Bourbon,  Souvenir  de  Malmaison,  Rosa  Thea,  Souvenir  d'un. 
ami,  Hydrangea  hortensis,  Lilium  lancifolium  and  auratum. 

Fig.  26  is  much  like  Cut  9;  but  of  greater  importance  is  here  the  choice  of 
single  plants,  as  the  whole  arrangement  shows  small  flower  stands,  tastefully 
grouped  round  the  arbor.  Fill  the  stands  in  the  back  ground  with  the  following 
plants  :  Dracaena  terminalis  and  D.  ferrea,  D.  Brasiliensis,  rubra,  congesta, 
australis,  indivisa,  Veitchii;  also  Ficus  elastica,  australis  and  Cooperi.  For 


27b 


/? .  t  T?  /•)  /•: \r.\a. 


ij;.  24.     I'urlor  Flower  Stand. 


WINDOW   GARDENING. 


277 


climbing  plants  decorating  the  arbor  are  well  fit :  Hedera  Algeriensis  and  Roegneriana, 
Cissus  antarcticus,  Rhuscus  androgyus,  Pilogyne  suavis,  Rubus  mollucanus,  Adluraia 
cirrhosa,  Clematis  azurea  grandiflora,  lanuginosa,  and  Fortunei. 


Fig.  27.  The  Flower  fountain  is,  when  small,  determined  for  ornamental  tab!*  deco- 
ration.    Tn  larger  style  it  may  be  well  suited  for  hall  deoration  or  ornaments  for  a  tent 


WIND  0  W   GARDEX1XG. 


outcl  uoora.     The  light  and  graceful  \rire-work  can  be  covered  with  :  Mnurnndia. 
Rhoaociivton  volubile.  Eccreraorcarpus  punicus,  Lophospermum,  Tropaeohmi    tricolo* 


»r  T.  pentaphyllum,  Thunbergia,  Solanura  jasminoides,  Bignoma  jasminoides,  Medw  •» 
and  Cardiospcrmum   Flalicacaoa.     For    the    large    shape    take    ate. 


WINDOW  GARDENING. 


279 


various  kind  of  Passiflora,  Senecio-mikanoides,  Ipomoea,  and  fine  ornamental  gourds 
The  lower  basin  in  the  centre  contains  decorative  plants  with  large  leaves  as  :  Begonia 
Maranta,  Caladia,  Pothos  Sanchezia  nobilis,  Tradescantia  discolo^  and  Warcsewitzii 


Pig.  27.    Floral  decoration  in  the  form  of  a  fountain, 

the  basin  above  has  only  light  dedicate  plants  as  :  Ferns,  Selaginella,  various  kinds, 
Isolepis  gracilis,  Torrenia  Asiatica,  Eranthemum  Cooperi,  Hybiscus  Cooperi,  Fittonia  ar 
gentea,  Alternanthera,  Bambusa  Japonica,fol.  var.,  and  Cerastium  tomentosum. 


280 


WINDOW  GARDENING. 


The  decorative  bird  cage,  on  page  4,  frontispiece  to  chapter  1,  in  a  small  shape, 
looks  well  on  a  table  or  in  front  of  a  looking  glass ;  if  bigger,  it  may  be  placed 
in  the  centre  of  a  room.  Here  is  a  good  opportunity  for  showing  a  fine  cul- 
tivated taste  in  the  arrangement  of  all  kinds  of  plants.  Below,  in  the  stand  at 
the  bottom,  you  will  perceive  dwarf  plants  of  the  following  species:  Stachys 
lanata,  Coleus  Beauty  of  Vidamore,  Nemophila  insignis,  Verbena  tencrioides  and 
Sanvitaiia  procumbens  mixed  with  Sweet  Alyssum  and  Lobelia ;  or,  in  a  different 
style :  Sempervivums,  Sedums,  Mesembryanthernums,  Cactus,  Echeveria,  Cras- 
sula,  Aloe  mixed  with  Phlox  setacea  and  Cerastium  tomentosum.  Then  higher 

up  on  the  stand  you  have  in  flat  vases: 
Sedum  fabaria,  Plumbago  Larpentae, 
Epiphyllum  truncaturn,  Daphne  cneo- 
rum.  The  four  vases  contain :  Agave 
Americana  fol.  var.:  Corypha  australis, 
Latania  Borbonica,  Cycas  revoluta,  or 
Bromelia  sativa  fol.  var.;  Nidularium  ful- 
gens,  Asplenium,  Nidus  avis,  Echeveria 
metallica,  Alocasia  metallica,  Statice 
Halfordii,  or  St.  macrophylla.  Yucca 
flaccida  will  produce  the  best  effect  in 
the  vase  on  the  top  of  the  cage.  Some 
small  climbing  plants  decorate  well  the 
four  corners  of  the  cage.  The  lively 
songsters  inside,  thus  surrounded  by 
beautiful  flowers,  seem  to  forget  that 
they  are  prisoners,  and  warble  their 
lovely  songs  with  perfect  freedom  and 

j°y- 

The  plants  recommended  in  this  article 
are,  throughout,  handsome  and  con- 
venient. They  are  to  be  had  in  any 
good  nursery  which  makes  a  specialty 
of  cultivating  plants  for  decoration. 
Some  florists  take  the  delivering  of  plants 
Fi«.  21.  Portable  seif-operatius  parlor  fountain,  by  contract,  renewing  them  from  time 
to  time.  VYe  give  you  also  a  good  hint  how  to  clean  plants.  Take  off  the  dust 
first  with  a  small  velvet  scrap,  then  wet  the  leaves  either  with  a  sponge  or  syringe. 
Plants,  of  a  lasting  habit,  as :  Palms,  some  kinds  of  Orehids,  Yuccas,  Dracaenas, 
Ficus  elastica,  will  keep  well  some  years  by  attendance  and  regular  nursing, 
repaying  the  small  trouble  by  their  growth  and  fresh  color. 

Home  Ornaments. 

This  department  would  not  be  complete  without  a  word  for  the  little  ones  of 
the  house,  some  hint  to  them  of  what  they  can  do  to  bring  forth  some  glowing 


WINDOW   GARDENING.  281 

spot  or  sprig  of  living  greenery.     So  we  tell  them  how  to  make  some  pretty  little 
contrivances  in  grasses,  &c. 

Plants  with  light,  graceful  foliage  are  every  year  becoming  more  popular;  and 
to  complete  a  picture  of  the  highest  order  one  requires  a  great  variety  of  colors, 
and  graceful  pencilings;  so  in  window  gardening  the  culture  or  the  grasses  adds 
greatly  to  the  whole  effect.  Their  feathery  plumes  may  not  possess  brilliancy  of 
coloring,  but  their  silvery  and  emerald  tints  are  an  offset  to  their  more  gorgeous 
companions. 

Far  prettier  than  many  a  pretentious  and  costly  ornament  is  a  simple  bowl  of 
grasses  planted  in  pine  cones,  set  in  sand,  in  moss,  or  common  soil. 

If  grown  in  cones — procure  them  from  the  woods,  and  sprinkle  in  as  much 
soil  as  their  scales  will  retain  ;  then  scatter  the  grass  seeds  over  it,  and  sprinkle 
with  water;  place  the  cones  in  sand  or  moss — and  be  sure  that  they  do  not 
become  dry — but  water  them  sparingly  at  first,  once  a  day,  and  set  in  a  mode- 
rately warm  place.  Soon  the  seeds  will 
sprout,  and  the  tiny  spears  protrude  in 
every  direction. 

Grass  will  sprout  and  grow  in  pine 
cones  without  any  soil,  but  it  serves  to 
prevent  the  cone  from  closing  too  tightly 
when  sprinkled,  and  also  makes  a  more 
vigorous  growth.  The  cones  can  be  sus- 
pended in  a  window,  either  singly  or  in 
groups  of  three  fastened  together  with 
thread  wire  ;  or  a  rustic  basket  or  stand 
can  be  procured,  and  filled  with  cones  with 
different  kinds  of  grass,  growing  in  each 
cone.  There  are  three  thousand  different 
species  of  grasses  in  the  world,  and  their 

Study  is  a  pleasing  pursuit.  F.ff.  29.     A  Saucer  Garden. 

A  very  charming  effect  can  be  produced  by  placing  a  wet  sponge  in  a  glass 
bowl,  and  sprinkling  over  it  canary  seed,  grasses  and  flax  seeds ;  soon  it  will  be 
covered  with  a  thick  growth  of  fresh  bright  green ;  it  must  be  judiciously 
watered ;  if  kept  too  dry  it  will  wither  away ;  if  too  wet  it  may  damp  off. 
Mustard  seed  may  also  be  used,  and  its  tiny  yellow  blossoms,  will  be  to  many, 
a  novelty  as  well  as  a  delight. 

Children  and  invalids  can  derive  much  pleasure  from  raising  a  grass  garden ;  it 
is  better  to  select  the  dwarf  varieties,  as  the  taller  kinds  require  more  nourish- 
ment. 

A  Tumbler  Garden  may  be  constructed  as  follows :  Fill  a  common  tumbler  or 
goblet  with  water,  cut  out  a  round  of  cotton  batting,  or  of  soft  thick  flannel  of 
just  the  size  to  cover  the  surface,  and  lay  it  gently  upon  the  water,  upon  this 
scatter  the  seeds  of  grass,  or  flax  or  mustard,  or  all  mixed,  and  gently  set  the 
tumbler  away  in  a  dark  place.  In  a  few  days  the  seed  will  start;  soon  tho  roots 


282 


WINDOW   GARDENING. 


Fig.  30.    Grass  growing  in  Pine  Cones. 


WINDOW  GARDENING. 


283 


will  begin  to  penetrate  the  cotton  or  flannel,  slowly  sending  down  their  delicate 
white  fibres  to  the  bottom  of  the  vessel,  while  the  top  will  be  covered  with  a 
little  thicket  of  green  ;  after  the  second  day  the  vessel  must  be 
kept  in  a  warm  tight  place,  and  two  or  three  times  a  week  care- 
fully replenished  with  water  by  means  of  a  teaspoon,  or  syringe 
inserted  beneath  the  edge  of  the  flannel. 

A  great  advantage  of  such  a  miniature  garden  as  this  is  that  the 
roots  may  be  plainly  seen  growing  through  the  cloth.  Water  cress 
has  been  grown  this  way,  and  a  little  story  is  related  of  a  little 
girl  who  kept  her  invalid  mother  supplied  all  winter  long  with 
water  cresses  grown  in  this  way  upon  wet  flannel. 

Peas. — Common  garden  peas  will  make  a  lovely  vine,  although 
sweet  peas  are  much  prettier,  but  either  can  be  grow.n  in  water; 
rill  a  common  tumbler  with  water;  tie  over  it  a  bit  of  coarse 
lace,  such  as  milliners  use,  and  cover  it  with  peas,  pressing  it  down 
into  the  water.  Keep  in  a  dark  place  for  two  or  three  days, 
then  give  light  and  warmth.  In  a  few  days  the  roots  will  bepig.  31.  B 
plainly  seen  piercing  through  the  lace,  and  the  vines  can  twine  d*iga]i  jSa!*11" 
around  the  casements,  or  a  bit  of  a  hoop  skirt  spring  can  be  fastened  about 
the  tumbler,  with  springs  attached  to  it  in  form  of  a  globe,  and  the  vines  twined 
about  them.  Keep  the  tumbler  full  of  water,  and 
add  bits  of  charcoal  to  keep  it  fresh  ;  every  week  turn 
in  two  or  three  drops  of  aqua  ammonia,  less  if  the 
tumbler  is  very  small,  but  the  deeper  it  is  the  bet- 
ter for  your  vines. 

A  Saucer  Garden  can  be  made  with  fresh  moss, 
well  wetted  ;  in  the  centre  place  a  pine  cone  filled 
with  earth  and  common  grass  or  canary  bird  seeds, 
and  in  a  few  days  the  tiny  grass  spears  will  ap- 
pear, and  soon  you  will  have  a  verdurous  cone  of 
great  beauty.  Keep  it  secure  from  the  frost,  and 
give  water  enough,  and  you  will  have  a  lovely  orna- 
ment. 

The  devices  for  growing  grasses  can  be  extended 
ad  libitum,  and  none  are  so  poor  that  they  cannot 
secure  a  tumbler  or  a  saucer  garden,  which  will 
prove  a  delight  and  a  joy  to  all  beholders,  while  its 
care  will  be  of  the  slightest. 

If  an  acorn  be  suspended  by  a  bit  of  thread  tied 
around  it  within  half  an  inch  of  the  surface  of  water   Fi<?.  re.   chandelier  TV  <- orations, 
contained  in  a   small  vase  or  tumbler,  and   allowed    to    remain     undisturbed 
for  one  or  two  weeks  in  a  warm  place,  it  will  burst   its  shell  and  throw   a  root 
into  the  water  and  shoot  upwards,  its  straight  and  tapering  stem  covered  with 


284 


WIND  0  W   GA  RDENTNfJ. 


glossy  green  leaves.  A  young  oak  tree  growing  in  this  way  is  an  elegant  object 
The  water  should  be  kept  clean  with  bits  of  charcoal,  and  if  the  leaves  turn  yel- 
low add  a  little  ammonia  to  it.  Chestnut  trees  can  be  grown  in  this  way,  but 
their  leaves  are  not  as  beautiful  and  delicate  as  those  of  the  oak. 

Baskets  of  Green  Cress,  or  Pepper  Grass. 

The  common  garden  cress  grows  very  rapidly,  and  can  be  used  in  various  ways 

in  making  grassy  ornaments  for 
parlor  or  table  decoration.  A  com- 
mon basket  of  oziers  can  be  trans- 
formed into  a  lovely  greenery  by 
planting  it  thus  :  Select  a  pretty 
shape  of  either  ozier  or  wire,  and 
line  the  basket  with  folds  of  cotton 
batting  sewed  on  both  outside  and 
inside,  covering  the  handle  with 
the  same,  or  thick  white  flannel 
can  be  substituted  for  the  cotton 
wool  and  strips  of  it  rolled  around 
the  handle. 

Procure  four  or  five  ounces  of 
cress  seeds  and  steep  them  in 
warmish  water  for  four  or  five 
hours  ,  set  into  the  basket  a  china 
saucer,  (or  the  saucer  of  a  flower 
pot  will  answer,)  fill  it  with  water, 
and  when.Hthe  soaked  seed  has  be- 
come a  little  sticky  spread  them 
all  over  the  flannel,  to  which  they 
will  adhere.  Leave  no  spot  un- 
covered, for  it  must  be  thickly 
strewn  with  plants.  Set  the  bas- 
ket in  a  warm,  dark  place  for  two 
or  three  days — longer  if  the  leaves 
do  not  commence  to  sprout — then 
bring  it  out  to  air  and  light,  and 
soon  it  will  become  a  mass  of 
FIJI.  33  Fioralva.se.  feathery  green  foliage.  You  must 

sprinkle  it  every  day  with  warmish  water,  holding  it  over  a  wash  bowl ;  and  the 
water  must  always  fill  the  saucer. 

A  small  fern  can  be  grown  in  the  saucer,  or  a  Primula,  or  a  cluster  of  Cro- 
cuses. 

Another  pretty  device  is  that  of  the  Turnip  basket,  which  is  made  by  simply 
taking  a  large  Turnip,  scraping  out  the  inside  so  as  to  leave  a  thick  wall  of  an 


WL\DO\V 


•jsr 


inch  all  around,  then  plant  in  it  some  climbing  or  drooping  vine,  say  a  Morning 
Glory.  Suspend  the  turnip  with  cords,  and  in  a  little  time  the  vines  will  grow 
upward  over  the  cords,  while  the  turnip  will  sprout  below  and  send  forth  leaves 
gracefully  turning  and  curving  upward. 

The  Sweet  Potato  would  hardly  be  recognized  by  many  who  know  it  only  to 
eat  it,  if  they  could  see  how  pretty  a  parlor  ornament  it  might  be  easily  made. 
Fig.  34  is  a  good  -illustration  of  one 
in  a  vase  placed  upon  a  bracket 
fastened  to  the  side  of  a  room. 

Take  a  large  sized  Sweet  Potato 
and  drop  it  to  the  bottom  of  a  vase 
or  the  bowl  of  a  hanging  basket. 
Cover  the  Potato  with  water  nearly 
to  its  top,  leaving  perhaps  a  half  inch 
uncovered,  and  always  keeping  it 
about  at  this  point.  It  will  soon  put 
forth  roots,  and  the  top  will  shoot 
out  a  vine  which  will  grow  after  a 
while  with  great  rapidity.  A  sunny 
position  suits  it  best, — and  the  ten- 
drils will  soon  clasp  the  arms  of  the 
basket,  or  droop  in  long  curls  over 
the  edge  of  the  vase.  Many  visitors 
who  have  seen  such  a  vine  in  the 
window  of  their  friend,  have  inquired 
with  admiration  its  name,  thinking 
it  must  be  some  foreign  plant.  Had 
it  possessed  only  some  curious  bo- 
tanical or  fanciful  name,  its  praises 
would  never  cease  being  repeated, 
but  the  visitors  are  a  little  chagrined 
to  find  that  their  enthusiasm  has  been 
vented  upon  nothing  but  a  Stucct 
Potato  Vine. 

Arrangement  and  Choice  of  Flowers 
for  Wreaths,  Bouquets  and  Vase*. 

The  art  of  arranging  flowers  grace-  y\s.  ;u.    swi-i-i  i'ot;u<»  \  in.-  in  \a»»-. 

fully  and  well,  is  not  so  easily  taught  as  their  culture,  for  it  requires  an  artistic 
eye  to  group  them  tastefully,  yet  fortunately  they  are  so  intrinsically  beautiful 
that  they  can  hardly  be  spoiled,  though  the  best  effect  is  not  always  attained. 

The  Germans,  French,  and  even  the  Russian  women  are  said  to  surpass  the 
English  and  Americans  in  their  various  methods  of  weaving  flowers  into  house 
decorations,  and  they  seem  born  with  a  love  of  plants  and  flowers. 


286 


WINDOW  GARDENING. 


In  our  country  flowers  are  chiefly  regarded  as  accessories,  while  in  France  and 
Germany  there  is  no  family  fete  without  its  graceful  door  wreaths,  its  garlanded 
picture  frames,  and  its  coronals  of  flowers  ;  and  not  a  toilette  without  its  appro- 
priate flower. 

In  arranging  flowers  it  is  well  to  bear  in  mind  the  laws  of  worsted  work,  and 
when  we  desire  to  adorn  our  rooms  with  flowers  we  should  consider  the  "  ground- 
ing" to  be  prepared  for  them,  as  if  it  were  a  cushion. 

White  is  often  the  chief  ground  work  of  a  wreath,  bouquet,  or  vase,  yet  it 

greatly  impoverishes  the  other 
colors,  and  renders  a  brilliant 
assortment  of  flowers  trivial,  if 
little  dabs  of  white  are  scattered 
all  over  them — yet  if  used  as  an 
outer  edging  it  will  heighten  their 
colors,  and  in  a  bouquet,  vase,  or 
wreath  of  delicate,  pale  shades,  it 
tends  to  make  their  colors  more 
distinct. 

Passion  flowers  are  peculiarly 
lovely  when  arranged  with  pale 
pink  roses,  etc.,  but  if  white 
flowers  are  mingled  with  them, 
the  effect  is  not  pleasing. 

Rose  color  and  pale  blue  are 
exquisite  when  mingled  ;  white 
lilac  or  mauve  with  primrose ; 
dark  blue  and  brilliant  scarlet; 
cerise  or  cherry  and  white  ;  dark 
purple  and  primrose,  blue,  white 
and  rose  color. 

The  shade  of  green  should,  ns  a 
general  rale,  hnnnoni/e  with  the 
natural  foliage  of  the  flowers  ;  if 
this  is  'disregarded  it  will  tend 

m.  :».    VUHK  uf< 'in  Flown,  to  overpower  instead   of  increase 

the  brightness  of  the  flower?.  Very  dark  green  lo^ks  well  with  only 
large,  pure-tinted  heavy  flowers,  like  Roses,  Camellias,  Dahlias,  etc.,  although 
it  will  look  well  with  white  flowers  of  finer  structure,  if  their  texture  is  thick 
and  waxen  and  especially  with  wild  tlowers  of  the  spring.  Thin,  yellowish  green 
foliage  would  ruin  the  Camellia,  which  needs  the  intense  dark  color  of  its  own 
leaves  to  show  forth  its  statuesque  beauiy  and  elegance. 

Indeed,  the  use  of  thin,  quickly  fading  green  sprays  will  injure  all  floral  ar- 
rangements ;  and  young  leaves  of  all  kinds  droop  soon  ;  while  older,  thicker  ibli- 
age  will  last  a  long  time.  The  leaves  of  the  scarlet  geranium  preserve  many 


WINDOW   GARDEXINQ. 


287 


flowers  by  their  velvety  texture,  which  retains  so  much  moisture,  while  their 
flowers  will  last  well  if  a  drop  of  gum  arable  is  dropped  into  each  flower;  and 
there  are  few  that  are  more  effective  either  in  dress  or  table  decoration. 

Heath  retains  its  beauty  for  a  long  time,  as  do  nearly  all  flowers  which  pos- 
sess a  hard  woody  stem  ;  while  Fuchsias,  Heliotropes,  etc.,  with  soft,  succulent 
stems  either  drop  their  flowers,  or  turn  black  so  quickly  that  their  beauty  is  soon 
destroyed. 

Carnations  and  Pinks  are  beautiful  for  floral  decorations,  and  they  keep  their 
freshness  for  a  long  time.  Verbenas  and  Chrysanthemums  are  also  very  desira- 
ble. Hyacinths  will  make 
exquisite  vases,  wreaths, 
etc.,  and  double  and  single 
Tulips  are  ornamental  in 
decorating  mantel  -:  pieces 
and  tables. 

Anemones  are  unequaled 
for  a  dinner  table,  as  the 
full  blaze  of  light  exhibits 
their  striking  colors  to 
great  advantage,  and  the 
gorgeous  scarlet,  pink,  pale 
blue  and  blue  shading  into 
white  are  per  feet,  but  they 
require  a  soft  mossy  foli- 
age of  Lycopodiums  or 
Ferns. 

Azaleas  are  charming 
for  every  kind  of  adorn- 
m  e  n  t .  There  are  no 
flowers  more  perfect  for 
ornamenting  the  hair  and 
dress,  but  they  fade 

quickly  Unless  damp  blot-  Fig.  36.     Basket  of  Cut  Flowers. 

ting  paper  or  cotton  or  wool  is  rolled  around  their  stems. 

Deutziagracilis  is  very  beautiful  for  any  decoration  ;  and  it  is  in  much  request 
so  that  the  florists  force  large  quantities  of  it  every  winter.  Roses  of  every  shade 
are  always  admirable;  too  many  of  them  were  never  seen. 

Stephanotis  floribunda  is  ever  welcome  ;  its  snowy,  waxen,  fragrant  flowers  be- 
ing adapted  to  every  floral  ornament,  and  the  same  remark  applies  to  the  sweet 
Cape  Jessamines,  the  Myrtle  and  the  Orange  blossom. 

Bouvardias,  Tuberoses,  Mignonette,  and  all  the  sweet  blossoms,  are  also  to  be 
desired  for  arranging  in  the  various  devices  at  present  employed  in  decorating 
apartments,  etc.,  for  festive  occasions. 

Mounting  and  weaving  flowers  is  a  mechanical  operation  that  is  often    useful. 


288 


WIND  0  W   G  A  RDENIXQ 


The  Parisian  fleurixtcs  can  take  a  flower  with  less  than  half  an  inch  of  footstalk 
and  make  it  very  effective.  The  smallest  piece  of  well  soaked  cotton  wool  is 
pressed  around  the  stem,  and  a  small  piece  of  wire  is  wound  about  it  to  keep  the 
wool  close,  and  it  is  twisted  closely  together  for  a  stem  ;  a  fresh  green  leaf  can 

be  rolled  over  the  wool  to  prevent  its  being  ob- 
served. Every  one  knows  how  often  a  lovely 
flower  will  snap  from  the  stem  and  be  seemingly 
useless,  but  with  a  bit  of  fine  wire  pierced  through 
the  calyx  a  stem  is  provkled  which  will  answer 
all  the  purpose ;  then  cotton  wool  thoroughly 
wetted  can  be  wound  tightly  over  it.  White 
Camellias  are  ruined  if  the  slightest  moisture 
touches  the  petals,  and  the  best  way  to  mount  the 
flower  is  to  moisten  a  piece  of  white  cotton  wool 
about  the  size  of  half  a  dollar,  then  lay  it  on  a 
piece  the  size  of  the  flower  itself,  which  should 
then  be  lifted  up ;  two  ends  of  a  loop  of  wire  having 
been  passed  through  the  centre  of  the  wool  before  laying  it  under  the  flower,  lift 
u|>  the  loop  of  wire,  and  slip  it  between  the  leaflets  or  points  of  the  thickest 
calyx  and  the  flower,  drawing  it  gently  around  it ;  then  reverse  the  flower,  and 
pass  the  wire  through  the  wool  twisting  it  around  a  cluster  of  leaves  of  the 
Camellia,  and  concealing  the  wool  with  them.  With  pink  flowers  use  pink  wool, 
Melted  isinglass  is  often  used  to  make  the  flower  adhere  closely  to  the  wool ;  this 
helps  to  keep  the  flower  from  falling,  and  also  moistens  it.  Isinglass  is  better  in 
preparing  flowers  than  gum  or  mucilage  of  any  kind,  because  it  is  not  so  sticky, 
and  is  of  a  pure  white  tint.  A  crown  or  wreath  of  Camellias  can  be  prepared  in 
this  manner,  that  will  last  for  four  or  five  days  in  great  perfection  ;  even  if  the 
flowers  drop  their  petals  the  wool  retains  enough  of  them  to  keep  up  the  appear- 
ance of  flowers. 


Fig.  37.     Bouquet 


Pig.  38.    A  Cornucopia  of  Flowers. 

To  mount  Geraniums,  Azaleaj,  etc.,  the  stems  should  be  cut  off  within  an  inch 
of  the  cluster  or  single  flower,  and  a  drop  of  isinglass  be  given  inside  of  the  petals, 
wetted  wool  iiml  the  wire  should  be  arranged  as  described  for  Camellias 


WINDOW   GARDENING 


289 


Water  Lilies  can  be  treated  in  this  way  and  thej  can  be  kept  several  days. 
In  making  wreaths,  a  delicate  eye  for  combining  color  and  light  for  arrang- 
ing flowers  are  required,  or  clumsy  garlands  will  be  the  result. 

It  is  a  mistake  to  suppose  that  a  great  variety  of  flowers  is  required  ;  simple, 
small  wreaths  of  Ivy  leaves  and  Myrtle  blossoms,  or  drooping  racemes  of  Deut- 
zia ;  of  Geranium  leaves  mingled  with  white  rose  buds,  and  its  own  brilliant 
blossoms ;  of  Pansies,  and  some  thick  textured  leaves ;  of  Azaleas  and  Prim- 
roses ;  or  of  any  combination  of  two  or  three  flowers  are  much  more  lovely  for  the 
decoration  of  the  hair,  dress  and  table. 

The  wreath  can  be  tied  with  green  zephyr  wool 
upon  a  bit  of  thread  wire,  mingling  the  green 
leaves  in  a  graceful  form. 

For  the  head  or  for  a  picture  frame,  the  wreath  is 
made  moie  easily  by  commencing  at  each  end,  and 
arranging  the'  flowers  and  leaves  toward  the  cen- 
tre— beginning  with  a  few  drooping  branches,  and 
filling  the  centre  with  a  high  coronal  of  knots  of 
flowers. 

In  making  up  bouquets,  frames  of  very  fine  green 
wire  are  much  used,  so  that  a  single  stem  stripped 
of  all  its  leaves,  passes  through  each  hole,  and 
all  of  them  are  bound  together  underneath  the 
frame. 

The  holes  are  arranged  in  circles,  and  the  effect  of 
the  grouping  is  very  good  and  lasting,  but  as  soon 
as  the  flowers  shrivel,  or  the  petals  fall  it  is  no 
longer  ornamental ;  but  for  decorating  a  dinner  table, 
or  carrying  in  the  hand,  it  is  a  most  desirable  frame, 
as  it  is  exceedingly  light  to  hold,  and  takes  very 
few  flowers  to  produce  a  fine  appearance. 

The  frame  should  be  slightly  conical,  and  a  large 
flower  is  best  adapted  for  the  aentre  piece,  and  a 
fringe  of  some  delicate  fern,  leaves  or  flower,  should 
droop  over  the  edges.  Fig.  39.  Wreath  of  Flower* 

The  frames  can  be  made  at  home  with  a  little  ingenuity  ;  silver  wire  is  the 
best,  but  copper  can  be  used.  The  piece  of  wire  for  the  outside  circle  of  a  large 
bouquet,  should  be  cut  half  a  yard  in  length,  and  the  succeeding  lengths  should 
be  three  inches  shorter,  each  one  diminishing  regularly  until  the  last  circle  will 
be  the  size  of  a  ten  cent  piece.  Each  of  these  wires,  making  six  in  all,  should  be 
neatly  fastened  together  ;  and  three  wires  must  then  be  attached  to  the  centre, 
one  at  equal  distances,  and  passing  in  and  out  of  each  circle  must  be  firmly 
hooked  into  the  outer  circle  and  arranged  in  a  conical  shape.  Thread  wire  can 
now  be  twisted  or  netted  in  and  out  of  the  circles  as  close  as  the  maker 

19 


290 


WINDOW  GARDENING 


chooses.     From  the  centre  circle,  three  more  wires  can  now  be  fastened  and  bent 
down  straight  to  form  a  handle. 

Fine  wire  can  be  used  to  form  frames  for  covering  vases,  dishes,  etc.,  and  they 
can  be  made  in  the  same  manner.  If  very  small  flowers  are  to  be  used  in  form- 
ing the  bouquet,  place  coarse  netting  lace,  such  as  is  used  in  millinery  all  over 
the  frame,  and  it  can  be  also  employed  in  making  the  whole  frame,  using  only 
one  circle  of  rattan  at  the  outer  edge;  but  it  will  not  last  for  only  one  occasion. 
Bouquets  made  on  these  frames  affect  a  great  saving  of  flowers.  With  but  a  small 

handful  a  large  sized  bouquet  can  be  ar- 
ranged. Various  are  the  devices  which 
can  be  appropriated  in  making  up  such  bou- 
quets. The  centre  can  be  of  one  flower, 
and  a  wreath  of  Rosebuds  or  Hyacinths  or 
Blue  Violets,  or  Pansies  arranged  all  around 
it  with  a  graceful  ground  work  of  green 
leaves. 

In  fastening  on  the  handle,  it  is  well  to 
recall  the  shape  of  a  parasol,  and  arrange 
the  wires  so  that  they  will  have  a  similar 
effect.  In  making  such  a  frame  for  an  oval 
dish  no  handle  is  required,  and  the  dish  can 
be  filled  with  wet  sand  to  keep  the  flowers 
fresh.  If  water  is  used  in  vases  a  few 
large  pieces  of  charcoal  are  very  needful  to 
prevent  it  from  being  offensive. 

It  is  a  subject  of  dispute  in  arranging  vases 
whether  one  should  commence  in  the  centre 
or  at  the  outside,  but  in  dishes  of  all  kinds 
it  is  certainly  the  best  plan  to  commence  at 
the  outer  edge  with  a  bordering  of  leaves  ; 
but  for  bouquets  it  is  better  to  begin  at  th^ 
centre.  Drooping  flowers  are  always  grace- 
ful, and  are  decidedly  the  best  for  bordering 
or  edging  both  vases  and  bouquets. 

Many  a  vase  and    bouquet    of   flowers 

FIR.  40.  Parlor  stand  for  Cut  Flowers.  is  ruined  by  mingling  too  great  a  variety 
of  colors  and  flowers.  One  sees  that  there  are  a  great  number  of  very  pretty 
flowers,  yet  the  effect  is  not  exactly  the  thing,  for  they  are  decidedly  crowded, 
and  do  not  mix  well  together. 

Two  or  three  purple  flowers  in  a  vase  of  scarlet  and  white  will  ruin  the  whole. 
One  must  consult  the  colors  of  the  flowers  that  are  to  be  grouped   together, 
ather  than  the  great  assortment  of  rich  and  rare  blossoms. 
Variegated  foliage  is  exceedingly  pretty  for  bordering  bouquets,  baskets  and 


WINDOW  GARDENING. 


291 


flat  dishes.     Begonia  leaves  and  those  of  Cissus  discolor,  are  much  in  request  for 
this  purpose 

A  bouquet  with  a  rich  rose-colored  flower  as  its  central  piece,  and  the  next  row 
of  blue  and  white  Hyacinths  or  violets  tied  to  wires  or  broom  corn  splinters,  and 
the  outside  mixed  with  rose  color,  blue 
and  white,  with  a  pretty,  misty  border- 
ing of  Gypsophila,  or  dive,  falling  over 
deep  crimson  leaves,  will  be  a  most 
effective  design.  A  pure  white  Camellia 
for  the  centre,  with  a  wreath  of  white 
Heath  mingled  with  Blue  Violets,  or  For- 
get-me-nots, is  very  lovely. 

The  central  flower  white,  and  the  outer 
wreath  of  scarlet  Geraniums,  is  also 
pretty 

Carnations  and  Lilies  of  the  Valley 
will  mingle  finely. 

Among  garden  flowers  how  infinite 
the  choice,  ribbon  grass,  pear  blossoms 
tea  violets,  lily  of  the  valley,  with  its 
leaves,  white  lilacs;  dielytra,  roses,  in 
their  season  ;  the  fragrant  lilies  of  July, 
and  the  bright  geranium  or  verbenas. 
Saucers  of  pansies,  edged  with  musk,  are 
lovely ;  so  are  balsams,  with  plenty  of 
their  own  leaves. 

A  pretty  design  may  be  made  as  fol- 
lows :  Fill  a  glass  dish  with  curled  parsley 
leaves,  put  a  white  jonquil  in  the  centre, 
from  which  let  five  sprays  of  the  lily  of 
the  valley  radiate  ;  or  a  star  may  be  made 
of  daisies  and  myrtle,  or  of  blue  and 
white  larkspur. 

A  very  novel  bouquet  may  be  made 
by  taking  an  unripe  melon,  cut  off  one 
end,  stand  it  up  on  the  cut  part,  then 
surround  with  the  stiff  leaves  of  the 
Paeonia,  and  stick  the  melon  full  of 
dahlias  and  asters. 

In  one  of  our  illustrations  (43)  may 

be  seen  a  beautiful  design  arranged  Fig.4t.  ornamental  stand  tor  vase  of' 
with  ferns.  A  few  long  fronds  are  arranged  to  fall  over  the  vessel  at  the  bottom, 
and  a  few  sprigs  of  flowers  are  introduced  to  fill  up  the  vase ;  around  the 
small  staff  which  rises  upwards,  twines  the  Lygodium  scandens,  and  from  the 


292 


WINDOW   OARDEXTXG. 


top,  which  is  in  the  shape  of  a  cup,  droop  more  plants,  same  description  as  at 
the  base. 

Bridal  bouquets  must  be  chiefly  composed  of  the  purest  white  flowers,  with  a 


little  minglinr  of  yellow,  blue  and  blush  white  tints,  but  the  snow  white  must 
predominate  to  produce  the  richest  effect. 


WIXDOW   GARDENING. 


293 


Green  is  essential  in  all  bouquets,  and  the  foliage  of  the  respective  flowers  is 
*  irays  best  fitted  to  show  off  their  peculiar  charms,  yet  a  feathery  and  plumy 
gfeen  adds  grace  to  all  arrangements  of  powers. 

Nothing  can  produce  a  more  lovely  appearance  than  a  vase  of  Lilies  of  the 
Valley,  mingled  with  the  emerald  green  folds  of  their  own  foliage. 

Camellias,  Azaleas,  Orange  flowers,  white  Jessamine,  Myrtle,  white  Heathi 
and  white  Violets,  mingle  together  in  odorous  beauty  to  adorn  a  bridal  s»ene. 

Rose-buds  should  not 
be  forgotten,  also  the 
lovely  waxen-petalled 
Stephanotis,  and  half- 
blown  Gardenias. 

As  a  general  rule,  all 
flowers  of  thin  texture 
and  pale  delicate  colors, 
fade  so  quickly  that  they 
are  not  suitable  for 
decorative  purposes. 

They  look  exceeding- 
ly pretty  while  growing, 
but  they  will  not  im- 
prove any  floral  ar- 
rangement. Nemophila, 
Convolvulus,  etc.,  etc., 
are  lovely  in  their  liv 
ing  beauty,  but  gath- 
ered they  add  nothing 
to  the  beauty  of  others ; 
while  Carnations,  Ge- 
raniums, Rose,  Asters, 
etc.,  etc.,  are  always 
most  brilliant  and  last- 
ing. Fern  leaves  are 
also  beautiful  in  vases, 
and  so  effective  that 

but  few  flowers  are  re-  Fig.  43.    Table  Decoration  with  Stand  of  Ferns. 

quired  to  make  a  brilliant  display. 

Branches  of  Ivy  are  lovely  and  mingle  well  with  scarlet  and  white  Geraniums. 
When  many  vases  are  desired  to  be  arranged,  it  is  well  to  fill  each  vase  with 
shades  of  one  color,  scarlet,  crimson,  pink,  white,  blue,  purple,  etc 

Hanging  Baskets  of  cut  flowers,  much  used  for  decorative  purposes,  and  the 
style  of  flowers  should  correspond  with  that  of  the  basket.  In  little  lattice 
work  baskets,  the  graceful  fronds  of  Ferns,  light  wreaths  of  Ivy-drooping  Fuchsias 
and  sprays  of  Begonia,  with  Lobelias  and  Rose-buds,  Cyclamens  and  Snow- 


294 


WINDOW  GARDENING. 


drops  woven  in,  present  a  most  attractive  appearance.  The  flowers  are  often 
arranged  in  tiny  bottles,  which  keep  them  fresh  a  great  while  if  a  little  salt  and 
saltpetre  are  added  to  the  water.  These  baskets  are  often  suspended  by  wires, 
and  long  ivy  wreaths  can  be  twined  about  them 

Other  baskecs  are  arranged  with  a  cross-bar  of  green,  dividing  them  into  four 
quarters,  with  a  double  row  of  white  edging  the  green.  Scarlet  Geraniums 
and  Blue  Hyacinths  fill  up  the  interstices,  but  usually  if  one  color  is  kept 
as  a  ground  work,  and  another  as  a  filling,  the  better  will  be  the"  effect.  Baskets 
can  be  arranged  with  branches  of  Ivy  growing  in  bottles  of  water,  mingled  with 

pressed  fern  and  autumn  leaves 
that  have  all  the  effect  of  growing 
plants,  and  can  be  suspended  in  a 
cool  bay  window  where  plants 
would  never  grow.  The  Ivy  can 
be  trained  to  creep  up  the  cords 
and  the  ferns  arranged  in  clusters 
by  themselves.  Pressed  mosses 
can  fill  up  all  crevices,  and  the 
water  with  charcoal  to  keep  it 
fresh,  will  not  require  any  change> 
but  only  to  be  filled  up  once  in  three 
weeks.  There  will  be  no  danger 
of  its  dripping  upon  the  carpet,  nor 
being  chilled  unless  the  tempera- 
ture falls  below  freezing. 

Long  pieces  of  Ivy  can  be  pur- 
chased at  the  florists,  and  they  will 
soon  strike  root  and  grow  finely. 

In  arranging  vases  that  will  stand 
fur  from  close  inspection,  very 
large,  bright  flowers  are  the  most 
desirable.  Dahlias  for  the  centre 
piece,  surrounded  with  full  blown 
roses,  Chrysanthemums,  etc.;  little 


Fig.  44. 


1  of  Ornamental  Grasses. 


delicate  flowers  are  thrown  away  in  such  decorations. 

For  wreathing  picture  frames  and  looking  glasses,  nothing  is  more  beautiful 
than  evergreen,  box,  or  myrtle  boughs,  thickly  intermixed  with  Holly,  Snow- 
berries  or  Bitter-sweet,  and  the  whole  crowned  by  a  bouquet  of  feathery  Ferns 
with  evergreens  and  berries. 

For  large  green  wreaths  tied  on  the  springs  of  hoop  skirts  firmly  fastened 
together,  the  low  growing  evergreens  of  the  pine  woods  are  decidedly  the  best, 
and  branches  of  spreading  boughs  of  fir  or  hemlock  can  surmount  each  crown. 

The  gray  woolly  wreaths  of  the  Clematis,  when  it  has  gone  to  seed,  mingle 
well  with  the  bright  berries  and  the  dark  hued  evergreens.  There  is  rio  decor- 


WINDOW  GARDENING. 


205 


ation  which  equals  that  of  flowers  on  festive  occasions,  ar  d  those  of  our  readers 
who  live  in  the  country  can  always  avail  themselves  of  the  berries  and  evergreens 
of  the  forests  and  fields. 

The  mountain  Ash  berries  are  also  extremely  effective  in  trimming  vases  and 
rooms. 

To  Eevive  Faded  Flowers 

Hot  water  will  frequently  restore  flowers  to  freshness,  even  when  every  petal 
is  drooping.  Place  the  stems  into  a  cup  of  boiling  hot  water,  leave  them  in  it 
until  each  petal  has  become  smoothed  out,  then  cut  off  the  coddled  ends  and  put 
into  milk  warm  water. 

Colored  flowers  revive  sooner  than  those  that  are  of  snowy  whiteness,  as  the 
latter  turn  yellow.  A  cool  room  is 
best  adapted  to  keeping  flowers 
fresh;  they  will  wilt  quickly  in 
badly  ventilated  rooms,  especially 
if  filled  with  tobacco  smoke.  Take 
away  each  flower  as  it  fades,  else  it 
will  decay  the  others. 

It  is  far  better  to  gather  your 
flowers  for  yourself  and  friends, 
than  to  let  them  fade  upon  the 
plants. 

Cut  Flowers,  hoio  to  keep  them 

When  gathering  flowers,  use  a  pair 
of  sharp  shears ;  a  knife  is  better,  es- 
pecially for  woody  plants  —  roses, 
camellias,  spireas,  deutzias,  fuchsias, 
and  the  like. 

If  you  wish  to  sever  a  spray  of 

bloSSOmS  Or  leaves,  hold  the  Stem  to  Fig.  45.     Cross  for  Table  Decoration. 

be  removed  in  the  left  hand,  and  at  the  back  of  the  stem  set  the  knife  (held  in  the 
right  hand)  and  cut  in  a  slanting  direction  downward.  If  the  spray  springs  from 
the  head  of  the  stalk,  cut  it  as  close  as  possible  to  the  shoot  next  below  it ;  if  it 
be  a  side  branch,  cut  it  cleanly  to  the  main  stalk.  Then  there  will  be  no  outflow 
of  the  sap,  no  rough  and  withering  sticks  protruding  their  unsightly  presence 
above  sickly  foliage  and  meagre  blossoms ;  but,  on  the  contrary,  a  symmetrical 
growth  of  verdure  and  florescence.  Use  the  same  method  in  removing  a  solitary 
flower  or  bud. 

One  great  drawback  to  our  enjoyment  of  Cut  flowers  is  the  quickness  with 
which  they  decay. 

The  moisture  furnished  cut  flowers  should  be  rain  water,  always  of  a  mode- 
rate temperature,  about  blood  warmth.  The  Water  should  not  be  changed,  but 


296 


WINDOW  GARDENING 


every  morning  its  evaporation  supplied  with  more  of  the  same  temperature ;  to 
which,  after  a  few  days,  a  little  aqua  ammonia — five  drops  to,  half  a  pint  of 
water — may  be  added.  It  is  well  to  place  at  the  bottom  of  the  dish  or  vase  a 
layer  of  broken  charcoal,  about  half  an  inch  in  depth— pieces  about  the  size  of 
small  beans.  In  placing  the  flowers,  let  them  have  as  much  room  as  they  need 
to  show  themselves  naturally.  At  the  expiration  of  a  week,  the  stems  should 
be  examined,  all  decayed  matter  rubbed  from  them  with  a  piece  of  flannel ;  and 
the  tip  of  each  end  cleanly  cut ;  and  if  any  leaves  or  blossoms  begin  to  look  with 
ered,  those  also  should  be  cut  away. 


Fi;?.  40.    Flower  Stand  for  the  Table. 

Flowers  decay  much  sooner  when  tied  in  bunches  or  bouquets  than  when 
arranged  loosely.  Too  little  air  and  too  much  water  are  the  bane  of  most 
species.  There  ought  to  be  a  free  current  of  the  former  around  each  spray  or 
separate  large  flower,  while  the  latter  should  not  come  above  the  calyx  of  any 
bloom ;  better  be  an  inch  or  more  below  it.  With  most  hardy  plants,  even  if 
very  long  stemmed,  two  inches  immersion  will  give  water  enough  if  tney  have 
plenty  of  air 

Branchlets  of  flowering  shrubs  and  stalks  of  the  lily  tribe  can  be  advanta- 
geously arranged  m  water  held  in  deep  vases  in  the  manner  just  mentioned  ;  but 


WINDOW  GARDENING. 


297 


for  a  collection  of  the  various  orders,  we  prefer  a  perforated  cover,  (have  used  even 
the  flat  steamer  of  a  dinner-boiler,  but  wish  the  "  workers  in  clay  "  would  provide 
for  the  necks  of  vases  and  flower-dishes  plates  similar  to  those  prepared  for  drainers 
to  soap  dishes.)  This  rests  upon  the  top  of  the  vessel,  and  through  its  holes  the 
stems  can  be  passed  to  the  water  beneath  without  fear  of  too  deep  immersion,  as 


Fig.  47.    Flower  Stand  for  a  HalL 

either  by  its  leaves,  or  bud-stems,  or  stalks  of  surrounding  greenery,  each  flower 
is  lightly  supported  above  the  cover,  which  is  hidden  by  the  foliage  hanging 
gracefully  around.  When  water  is  to  be  supplied,  the  cover  is  raised  withou* 
disturbing  the  stems 


298 


WIND  0  W   GARDENING . 


For  short  stemmed  flowers,  a  mixture  of  damp  sand  and  powdered  charcoal 
in  equal  proportions,  answers  very  well ;  but  care  must  be  taken  that  the  dish 
does  not  get  too  dry  ;  so  also  do  baskets  of  creeping  moss,  in  which  they  may  be 
placed  with  fine  effect ;  still  the  moss  gets  dry  so  soon  that  the  flowers  fare  bet- 
ter if  a  saucer  is  hidden  below,  partly  filled  with  water,  which  they  can  reach 
with  the  tips  of  their  stems 


Kijr.  48.    Dish  of  Flowers  and  Furus  for  the  Table. 

The  prettiest  and  best  arrangement  for  keeping  cut  flowers  in  beauty  is  a  dish 
of  velvet  moss  saturated  with  rain  water.  When  this  moss  is  brought  from  the 
woods,  if  a  few  fronds  of  fern,  especially  those  of  the  delicate  Maiden  Hair,  are 


Fig.  49.    Ornamental  Silver  and  Gold  Stand  for  Fruit  or  Flower*. 

taken  with  it,  and  suffered  to  form  a  part  of  the  foliage  of  the  group,  you  wiL 
find  them  a  charming  addition.  Place  the  flower  stems  sparsely  among  the  moss, 
and  here  and  there  a  branchlet  of  green  or  a  leaf.  Just  inside  the  edge  of  the 
dish  pour  a  very  little  water  twice  a  week  ;  and  when  any  of  the  collection  show 
signs  of  decay,  remove  them,  and  fill  their  places  with  fresh  specimens;  thus  the 
dish  may  be  kept  filled  with  bloom  and  beauty  for  months 


WINDOW  GARDENING 


299 


Small  bouquets  for  the  hand  soon  fade  if  no  effort  is  m«.c«e  to  give  them  mois- 
ture ;  but  a  wrapping  of  a  bit  of  wet  cotton  batting  or  a  few  wet  threads  of  can- 
dle wicking,  fastened  lightly  about  the  ends  of  the  stems,  will  suffice  to  keep 
them  in  good  condition  several  hours  in  a  close,  hot  atmosphere.  Those  who  do 
not  like  the  formality  of  a  bouquet  holder,  which  this  plan  necessitates,  can  take 
a  small  vial — such  as  are  used  to  hold  medicine  of  homoeopathists — partly  fill  it 
with  water,  and  place  the  flower  stems  therein ;  and  then  cover  the  vial  by  tying 
a  ribbon  around  it,  just  as  they  would  the  bare  steins  of  a  nosegay.  Flowers 
used  in  decorating  the  hair  and  the 
dress  can  be  kept  bright  and  fresh 
in  the  same  way. 

If  flowers  are  to  be  transported 
any  distance  after  they  are  cut,  they 
should  be  placed  carefully  in  a  tight 
box  or  case.  If  the  box  is  not  per- 
fectly air  tight,  furnish  it  with  a  layer 
of  damp  moss  or  cotton  batting. 

When  going  for  wild  flowers,  carry 
a  tightly  closing  tin  box,  in  which 
is  a  piece  of  wet,  coarse  sponge,  and 
a  basket.  The  smaller  flowers  are 
to  be  shut  in  the  box  The  sponge 
is  laid  in  the  bottom  of  the  basket, 
and  the  stems  of  the  larger  flowers 
inserted  in  its  pores.  By  so  doing, 
even  the  most  delicate  can  be  brought 
home  without  withering. 

Handsome  wall  decorations  may 
be  made  by  cutting  long  branches  of 
ivy,  clematis,  woodbine,  honeysuckle, 
or  climbing  roses,  inserting  a  few 
inches  of  their  stem  in  a  bottle  of 
rain  water,  and  hanging  the  bottle 
behind  a  picture  or  a  mirror,  over 

and   about    Which    the    flowers     will  Fig.  50.     Decorative  Bird  Ca-je  lor  the  house. 

bloom  and  the  foliage  flourish  for   many  weeks,  to   the  admiration   of  all  be- 
holders. 

The  beauty  of  so  many  flowers — hot  house  flowers  especially — is  tarnished  by 
sprinkling.  When  they  are  drooping,  it  is  best  to  try  first  a  change  to  a  cooler, 
or  a  more  airy  department,  and  a  double  portion  of  ammonia  added  to  their 
water  ;  this  frequently  revives  them  very  quickly 


300  WINDOW   GARDENING. 

CONCLUSION. 

And  now,  regretfully  taking  leave  of  the  interested  readers  who  have  followed 
us  to  the  end,  we  cannot  close  without  some  slight  but  hearty  expression  of  the 
genuine  love  and  pure  ennobling  influence  which  comes  from  constant  associa- 
tions with  flowers.  Though  Window  Gardening  has  its  difficulties,  still  its 
pleasures  are  as  yet  but  partially  told,  and  its  capabilities  only  half  revealed. 
How  dreary  our  homes  would  be  without  some  sweet  presence  of  floral  blos- 
soms ?  Where  they  are,  they  seem  to  give  a  "  benediction  of  peace"  for  they 
beguile  many  a  weary  hour,  and  soothe  many  a  feverish  or  anxious  life.  Would 
that  all  might  be  led  ere  long  to  study  the  beauties  and  acknowledge  the  sweet 
influence  of  the  flowers,  "  Nature's  Jewels,"  vhose  life  seems  to  be  examples  of 
humility,  purity,  and  patience. 

Ruskin  says  :  "  Flowers  seem  intended  for  the  solace  of  ordinary  humanity 
Children  love  them ;  quiet,  tender,  contented,  ordinary  people  love  them  as  they 
grow;  luxurious  and  disorderly  people  rejoice  in  them  gathered.  They  are  the 
cottagers'  treasure,  and  in  the  crowded  town,  mark,  as  with  a  little  broken  frag- 
ment of  rainbow,  the  windows  of  the  worker,  in  w%ose  hearts  rests  the  "cove- 
nant of  peace"  To  the  child  and  the  girl,  to  the  peasant  and  manufacturing 
operative,  to  the  grisette  and  the  nun,  the  lover  and  the  monk,  they  are  precioui 
always— 

"  Bright  gems  of  Earth  in  which,  perchance  we  *ee 
What  Eden  was  —  what  Paradise  may  be* 


INDEX 


PART    I. 

CIAPTBR    L    Window  Gardening:  Its  Pleasures— Increase  in  Popular  Taste— Refining  In- 

fluences..... 5  to    10 

IL    Location  and  Designs  for  Window  Gardens '. 11  to    M 

III.  General  Management  of  Window  Gardens 23  to    35 

IV.  Special  Care  of  Window  Gardens  in  Winter,  Spring,  Summer,  Autumn 36  to    44 

V.    Insects,  and  how  to  kill  them 45  to    48 

VI.    Propagation  from  Seeds.  Cuttings,  &c 49  to    52 

VII.    Propagating  Boxes,  Heating  Cases  and  Cold  Frames 53  to    56 

VIIL    Window  Pots,  Boxes,  Jardinieres  and  Plant  Stands 57  to    76 

IX.    Conservatories  and  Greenhouses 77  to    90 

PART    II. 

PLANTS  FOR  WINDOW  GARDENS. 

tHAPTKR    X.    Ranging  Bankets 91  to  110 

XL    The  Ivy  for  Decorative  purposes Ill  to  118 

XIL    Clhnhing  Vines— Balcony  Gardening 119  to  137 

XIII.  Bulbs 138  to  157 

XIV.  Ferneries,  Wardian  Cases,  and  Fern  Decorations. 158  to  188 

XV.    The  Camellia 189  to  191 

XVI.    The  Rose 192  to  197 

XVII.    The  Fuchsia— The  Myrtle 198  to  203 

XVIII.    The  Heliotrope 2lM  to  206 

XFX.    TheGeranium 207  to  211 

XX.    The  Oleander,  Bou  vardia,  Mahernia  Odarata 212  to  214 

XXL     Verbenas,  Petunias,  Pyrethruius 215  to  218 

XXIL    The  Mignionette,  Cinerarias,  Wall  Flowers,  Stocks 219  to  222 

XXIII.  Carnations 223  to  225 

XXIV.  Alpine  Plants 226  to  232 

XXV     Miscellaneous  Plants 933  to  246 

PART    III. 

PARLOR  DECORATIONS. 

CHAPTKK  XXVI.    TTie  Decoration  of  Parlors  and  Living  Rooms  with   Ornamental   Plant* 

and  Flowers J47  to  3» 


Tlie  Editor  would  acknowledge  with  pleasure  proper  credit  to  the  following  Books  or  JounuUl 
which  hare  heen  consulted  for  necessary  information : 

The  Floral  World London,  England. 

The  Gardeners'  Magazine " 

The  Parks,  Gardens  and  Promenades  of  Paris By  William  Robinson. 

Frauengarten,  Illustriste  Gartenhuch By  H.  Jager,  Leipsig. 

Rustic  Adornments  for  Homes  of  Taste By  Shirley  Hibberd. 

Flowers  for  the  Parlor  and  Garden Edward  8.  Rand,  jr. 

Practical  Floriculture Henderson. 

Window  Gardening,  English  Pamphlet Robert  T.  Fish. 

Indoor  Plants Miss  E.  A.  Maling. 

Hearth  and  Home,  and  American  Agriculturist. 

The  Horticulturist.    N.  E.  Farmer. 

The  Fern  Garden Shirley  Hibberd. 


CONTRIBUTORS. 

Acknowledgments  of  kindly  assistance  are  due  to  the  following  persons  for  contribution* 
to  the  page?  of  this  book : 

C.  L.  ALLBM,  'DAISY  EYEBRIOHT, 

PBOF.  ROBERT  DEMCKER,  J.  L.  LITTLLE,  Jn. 

N.  T.  Central  Park  Gardens.          ANNE  O.  HALK. 


TILE  FLOWER  BOXES 

Of  Various  Sizes  and  Patterns,  for 

jpartor  tilhutmcjj,  d^nswatows,  *te. 

THEY   ARE   PACED    WITH 

ORNAMENTAL  TILES, 

Set  in  Walnut  Mouldings,  Plain  and  Rustic.     The  lining  is  of  zinc,  so  that  they 
may  be  filled  with  earth,  or  with  common  pots  containing  plants. 

ALSO,  IN  GLAZED   STONE  WAKE, 

Ornamental  Flower  Pots, 

Hanging  and  Wall  Baskets, 

Brackets,  Rustic  Seats,  etc. 

MINTON'S  FLOOR   TILES 


FOR 


onscrbatavies,     esli^ules,      alls,      cartljs,  etc. 

GARNKIRK  CHIMNEY  TOPS, 

&c.,  &c.,  &c. 

MILLER    &    CORTES, 
279  PEARL  STREET.       •  NEW  YORK 


OR 


OF  VARIOUS  SIZES,  PATTERNS  AND  DECORATIONS 

8,  9, 10, 11, 12,  13, 14  &  15  INCHES  IN  DIAMETER,  WITH 

Jfwtrh  Ofrptat  <Ste  Ji 

COMPLETE. 

The  largest  assortment  in  the  United  States,  and  sold  at  LOWER  PRICE  than  any  other  house 
in  this  line  of  business.    Also, 

GKLASS  SHADES  for  POND  LILIES, 

with  Mirrored  Stands,  to  represent  water,  of  7,  8,  9,  10,  11  and  12  inches  in  diameter,  and  large* 
sizes  when  specially  ordered. 

Class  Shades  for  Clocks,   Birds,   Wax   Flowers,  etc. 


SHEET     WAX, 

«f  BchftltWe's  superior  manufacture,  for  making  Wai  Flowers,  GILT  LKAF  MOULDS,  (78  different 
styles)  MOULDING  TOOLS,  FLOWRR  CCTTKKS,  Dry  Colors  iu  Homo— Vials,  Brushes,  Moss,  Stamen*,  and 
•ther  mateiials  and  tools  used  iii  Wai  Flowar  making. 

S.  J.  PARDESSUS  &  CO., 

9  &  11  Park  Place,  New  York. 

A  catalogue  with  treatise  on  "Phantom  Bouquets,"  or ''Skeleton  Leaf"  making,  will  be  sent  by 
n.nil  on  receipt  of  a  3  cent  P.  O.  Stamp.  The  trade  and  teachers  of  wax  flowers  will  please  enoloM 
their  business  card. 


Hitchings  <£  Co., 

MANUFACTURERS   OP 

Patent  Boilers  and  Heating  Apparatus 


FOR 


Green-Houses,  Graperies,  Etc., 
No.  153  Crosby  St.,  New  Vork, 


CORRUGATED  FIRE-BOX  BOILER, 

PATENTED  18C7. 

Manufacture  and  keep  constantly  on  hand  Patent  Corrugated  Fire-Box  Boil- 
ers, Conical  Boilers,  and  Saddle  Boilers,  Heating  Pipes,  Expansion  Tanks, 
Stop  Valves  and  Fittings  of  every  kind.  Also,  Furnace  Fronts  and  Fire  Bars 
for  brick  flues,  Sash  Lifters,  etc.,  etc. 

Refer  to— Peter  Henderson,  Bergen,  N.  J. ;  Isaac  Buchanan,  Astoria,  L.  I.,  N.  Y. ;  Wm. 
C.  Wilson,  Astoria,  L.  I.,  N.  Y. ;  Ellwanger  A  Barry,  Rochester,  N.  Y. ;  Experimental  Gardens, 
Washington,  D.  C. ;  Botanical  Gardens,  Washington,  D.  C. ;  Henry  Shaw,  St.  Louis,  Mo. ;  Gal 
Tin  «fe  Geraghty,  Newport,  R.  I. 

SEND  FOR  ILLUSTRATED  CATALOGUE  AND  REFERENCE  LIST. 

HITCHINGS  &  CO,,  153  Crosby  St.,  New  York. 


PETTIEST  SOUSE^OLD  ^JOURNALS 


Devoted  to  Household  Ele- 
gancies, Housekeeping,  Art, 
Music,  Home  Pets,  Ladies'  Fan- 
cy "Work,  Society,  Amusements, 
Flowers,  Window  Gardening, 
Cottages,  etc.  The  Prettiest 
Ladies'  Paper  in  America.  Beau- 
tifully Illustrated.  A  perfect 
Gem.  Full  of  good  sense,  and 
invaluable  to  every  lady  for  its 
refinement,  elegance,  and  rare 
value. 

Price,  $1.30  per  year,  including 
beautiful  Chromo. 

Price,  35  cents,  three  months, 
including  beautiful  Chromo. 

Price,  15  cents,  three  months, 
on  trial.    Specimen  copy,  10c. 

None  Free. 

Agents  Wonted.   Get  up  a  Club. 
Premium  List  Free. 


'HE  BOYS  AND  GIRLS !    Send  lOc.  for  Trial  Trip  3  Months, 

> 


THE  PRETTIEST  PAPER  FOR  THE  YOUNG  FOLKS,  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES, 

A  beautiful  illustrated  Journal,  devoted  to  the  interest  of  the  Young  Folks,  their  amusement, 
improvement,  and  instruction  at  home  and  at  school.  Full  of  pretty  pictures,  entertaining 
stories,  puzzles,  fun,  anecdotes,  questions,  little  pieces,  and  helps  to  school  studies.  Pure,  sensi- 
ble, useful.  Parents,  take  it  for  your  children.  Boys,  get  up  clubs. 

PRICE, — 35  cents  on  trial  6  months,  including  pretty  Chromo,  "  Mischief."  10  cents  on  trial  3 
months,  without  Chromo.  5  cents  specimen  copy.  None  free. 

HENRY    T.  WILLIAMS,  Publisher, 

46  Beekman  Street,  New  York. 

N.  B.— Please  state  where  you  saw  this  notice. 


-AND 


HOME    DECORATIONS. 


Fret-Sawing  has  become  an  art  of  such  wonderful  popularity  that  the  interest  in  it  has  been 
shared  hy  both  amateurs  and  professionals  to  an  astonishing  extent.  Hundreds  are  eaining  large 
sums  of  pocket-money  by  cutting  these  beautiful  household  ornaments,  and  selling  among 
t'l  lends  or  acquaintances,  or  at  the  art  stores. 

Ladies  and  the  Young  Folks  find  in  it  a  fascinating 
recreation,  and  are  making  dozens  of  fancy  articles 
at  small  cost,  to  decoiate  their  homes  in  a  charming 
manner,  or  to  give  as  Holiday  Presents  to  friends.  The 
following  books  contain  mechanical  designs  of  full 
size  for  immediate  use,  and  are  invaluable  alike  to  the 
amateurs,  ladies,  young  folks,  mechanics,  architects, 
and  all  of  professional  skill. 

PART  1  contains  full  size  Designs  for  Picture 
Frames,  Small  Bracket?,  Book  K.-u-ks,  Fancy  Letters 
and  Figures,  Ornaments.  Wall  Pookets,  etc.  (Has 
patterns  worth  at  usual  prices  over  $8.)  Price,  75  cts., 
post-paid  by  mail. 

PART  2  is  devoted  exclusively  to  designs  of  Brackets 
of  medium  to  large  size,  all  entirely  new.  and  of  the 
most  tasteful  detail  and  execution.  (Contains  over  50 
plans,  worth  at  least  $15.)  Price  $1.00,  by  mail,  post- 
paid. 

PART  3  is  devoted  to  Fancy  Work,  Ladies'  Work 
Baskets,  Easels,  Crosses.  Match  Boxes,  Pen  Racks, 
Paper  Cutters,  Calendar  Frames.  Thermometer  Stands, 
Watch  Pockets.  Fruit  Baskets,  Table  Platters,  etc. 
Nearly  100  designs,  many  of  them  really  exquisite. 
Price,  *1. 

The  above  books  contain  over  300  patterns  all  beau- 
tifully printed  in  blue  color.  These  books  are  the 
only  ones  yet  issued  in  the  U.  S.  The  patterns  are 
mostly  original,  designed  expressly  for  these  books, 
and  in  execution,  choice  selection,"  taste,  cheapness, 
they  may  be  safely  esteemed  the  best  collection  yet 
produced  !  The  whole  series  of  three  costing  but  $2.75.  contains  upwards  of  300  patterns,  worth 
at  usual  values  over  $30.  All  sent  post-paid  by  mail,  on  receipt  of  price. 

Bracket  and  Fret  Saw. 

With  this  Bracket  Saw,  the  designs  and  directions,  very 
desirable  articles  can  be  made  lor  F;iii>.  etc.,  which  will 
sell  quickly  and  at  a  good  profit  v  iili  it  you  can  make 
beautiful  articles  for  presentation  <jift*.  With  it  you  can 
help  beautifi/  your  homes.  With  it  you  <  an  make  money. 
To  parents  desiring  a  USEFUL  GIFT  for  their  children,  we 
would  call  attention  to  this  Bracket  and  Frf  t  Saw.  for  it 
not  only  affords  great  pleasure,  but  it  helps  to  cultivate  a 
mechanical  taste. 

Price  with  L'5  bracket  and  ornamental  designs,  G  bracket 
saw  blades,  also  full  directions  for  use.  Sent  by  mail  for 
$1.25. 

Address  HSNBY  T.  WILLIAMS,  Publisher, 

46  Beekman  Street,  New  York. 

Part  4,  Price  KO  Cents. — A  new  book  of  Fret  Saw  designs,  containing  many  tasteful  pat- 
terns, entirely  new  and  of  special  elegance,  is  now  in  press,  and  will  be  issued  early  in  October. 


busehold  fllleganeies, 


THE  MOST  BEAUTIFUL  LADIES'  BOOK  EVER  PUBLISHED. 
A   BEAUTIFUL    GIFT    TO    FRIENDS 

By  Henry  T.  Williams  and   Mrs.   C.  S.  Jones. 


A  splendid  new  book  on  Household  Art,  devoted  to  a  multitude  of  topics,  interesting  to  ladies 
everywhere.  Among  the  most  popular  subjects  are,  Transparencies  on  Glass,  Leaf  Work, 
Autumn  Leaves.  Wax  Work,  Painting,  Leather  Work,  Fret  Work,  Picture  Frames.  Brackets, 
Wall  Pockets,  Work  Boxes  and  Baskets.  Straw  Work,  Skeleton  Leaves,  Hair  Work,  Shell  Work, 
Mosaic,  Crosses,  Cardboard  Work,  Worsted  Work,  Spatter  Work,  Mosses.  Cone  Work.  etc. 
Hundreds  of  exquisite  illustrations  decorate  the  pages,  which  are  full  to  overflowing  with  hints 
and  devices  to  every  lady,  how  to  ornament  her  home  cheaply,  tastefully  and  delightfully,  with 
fancy  articles  of  her  own  construction.  By  far  the  most  popular  and  elegant  gift-book  of  th« 
year.— 300  pages,  Price,  $1.50.  Sent  post-paid  by  mail. 

Address,  HENRY  T,  WILLIAMS,  Publisher,  46  Beekman  Street,  New  York. 


Most    Beautiful    Novelties-* 

Gems  of  Art !    They  win  Admiration  Everywhere ! 

9 


These  New  and  Beautiful  Productions  of  the  Loom  are 
the  wonder  and  admiration  of  all.  They  are  not  only  use- 
ful as  Book  Registers,  but  elegant  and  tasteful  as  Presents. 
Each  design  is  woven  in  silk  in  various  colors,  and  the  views 
and  likenesses  are  remarkably  clear  and  correct.  The  en- 
graving here  given  is  a  careful  reproduction  of  one  of  them 
on  a  reduced  scale,  and  will  give  a  faint  outline  of  their 
beauty. 

The  variety  of  these  novelties  is  now  very  large,  number- 
ing over  four  hundred,  and  embraces  an  extensive  assort- 
ment of  Anthems,  Hymns,  Scriptural  Texts,  and  Verses  on 
the  affections,  Birthdays,  etc.,etc.,fromShakspeare,  Byron, 
Burns,  Moore.  Tennyson,  Hood,  Eliza  Cook,  George  Eliot, 
Longfellow,  Wordsworth,  Cowper,  etc.,  etc..  beautifully 
illuminated  and  woven  in  silk.  As  tokens  of  affection  they 
are  really  charming. 

OPINIONS  OF  THE  PRESS, 

ILLUMINATED  SILK-WOVEN  BOOK-MARKS.  —  These 
beautiful  gems  of  the  loom  cannot  be  spoken  too  highly  of, 
and  deserve  a  place  in  every  family  in  the  country.  They 
are  useful  as  well  as  an  ornamental  register  for  the  old  Fam- 
ily Bible.  The  number  of  the  different  varieties  now  reaches 
some  40i>,  and  one  can  be  found  for  everybody,  as  they  em- 
brace religious,  affectional,  and  sentimental  subjects,  and  are 
suitable  for  presents  to  parents  and  children,  young  maids 
and  bachelors,  and  friends  to  friends.  The  flowers,  portraits, 
and  other  pictures  are  portrayed  with  an  exactness  in  bril- 
liant colors  that  equals  the  finest  touch  of  the  painter,  an(\ 
casts  into  the  shade  the  numerous  chromos  which  are  daily 
scattered  over  the  country.— [Christian  Advocate. 

SELECTED  DESIGNS. 

From  the  large  list  of  mottoes  and  designs  we  have  mad* 
the  following  selections,  which  we  specially  recommend  : 

SERIES  No.  1.    Price  SO  Cents  Each. 

This  series  intended  specially  as  gifts,  prizes  or  premiums,  by 
parents,  teachers  (school  or  Sunday  school),  to  the  young 
tolks,  or  to  hang  on  Christmas  trees. 

The  Busy  Bee.  No.  W  For  a  Good  Girl.  No.  88 

Little  R.  d  Hiding  Hood.   "    85  Mistress  >lary.  '    !)4 

I  Love  Little  Pussy.          "    87  To  My  Darling.  "    % 


SERIES  No.  3.     Trice  5O  Cents  Each. 


LOVP'S  Emblem. 
To  My  Dear  Cousin. 
Birthday  Wish. 
Happy  May  thy  Birthday 

be. 

A  Birthday  Blessing. 
Dear-st,  I  Love  but  Thee. 
The  Lily 
Remember  Me. 
To  my  Dear  Sister. 
To  my  Dear  Mother. 
True  Love. 
A(kires3  order s  to 


51  Compliments  of  the  Season 

52  God  is  Good. 

54  The  Lord  shall  my  Pasture. 

A  Tribal-  of  Affection. 
6'2  A  Blessing. 
04  To  my  Dear  Brother. 
66  A  Wish. 
68  Unchanging  Lore. 
81  To  My  Dear  Father. 
8U  With  Best  Wishes. 
86  To  One  I  Love. 
69 


No. 

.  70 
7-3 
74 
77 

7!) 
SO 

S4 
101 


HENRY  T.  WILLIAMS,  Publisher, 

4G  Bcekmaii  Street,  X.  T. 


SERIES  No.  3. 

No 
Honor  thy  Father  and  Mother.  161 


noiior  my  r  iitiioi  c*ni^.  A«.VI 
Kemember  Sabbath  Day. 
The  Lord's  Prayer, 
lilessed  are  the  Merciful. 
Remember  Me. 
A  Blessing. 
To  my  Dear  Brother. 
To  my  Dear  Father. 
A  Wish. 


SERIES  No.  4.    Price  91.00. 


No. 

A  Birthday  Gift.  251 

Hope  the  Anchor  of  the  Soul.  252 
Remember  now  Thv  Creator.  251 
May  our  Hearts  be  United. 
A  Happy  New  Year. 
The  Beatitudes. 
Unchanging  Love. 
True  Love. 
Remember  Me. 
Compliments  of  the  Season. 


2BO 
2«5 
389 

293 
352 


The  quality,  size,  artistic  color  and  beautiful  appearance  of 
the  Book-Marks,  is  in  correspondence  with  the  price,  those  at 
$1.00  being  much  the  largest  and  finest;  yet  all  are  so  admira- 
ble, and  so  far  surpass  in  brilliancy  and  taste,  any  attempt  to 
describe  them,  that  they  must  be  seen  to  be  appreciated. 

The  same  motto,  or  sentiment,  often  appears  in  each  Series, 
but  is  different  in  every  case,  both  in  colors  and  design,  aud  dif- 
ferently woven. 

The  Book-Marks  of  Series  1  and  2,  are  usually  6  inches 
long ;  of  Series  3,  from  8  to  9  inches  long;  and  Series 
4,  from,  10  to  11  inches  long. 

Special  Prices  to  any  who  wish  to  buy  in  Quanti- 
ties of  one  dozen  or  over,  for  Gifts  to  Friends, 
or  in  School,  Fairs,  &c, 


Agents  wanted  to  sell  in  all  parts  of  the  country.    One  or  more 
can  be  sold  in  every  family,  where 

THEY  SELL    SPLENDIDLY, 

And  win  Admiration  everywhere. 

l?ery  Lady  and  every  Back  Reader  will  be,  sirs  ta  Suy. 
Address  HENRY  T,  WILLIAMS,  Proprietor, 

46  Beekman  Street,  New  York. 


Price  75  Cents. 

TheDoxology.- 

The  Lord  is  my  Shepherd. 

A  Happy  Christmas. 

A  Happy  New  Year. 

To  One  I  Love. 

Faith,  Hope,  Charity. 

Happy  may  thy  Birthday  be. 

Compliments  of  the  Season. 


A  Happy  New  Year. 

Birthday  Blessing. 

Many  Happy  Returns  of  the 

Day. 

I  Love  Thee. 
The  Priceless  Gem. 
A  Birthday  Wish. 
A  Wish. 
Happy  may  thy  Birthday  he. 


I'Vt  BE-DEWb  IT  WT^EARS.ANDJM-BAUM 

"IT  wimicHsT  re  BOUNolY^A  "THOU^AM 


BANDS  T(f  MY  HEART :  NOT  A  TIE  Will  BREAK 


''NOT  A    LINK  WILL  START-  WOULD  YE  LEARN 


WORK. 

Will  be  PulsM  April  1,1876. 


A  Charming  New  Book,  with  above 
title.    A  Companion  Volume  to 


And  WINDOW  GARDENING, 

Being  issued  in  same  size  and  style, 
profusely  illustrated  with  engravings  of 
superior  execution,  and  devoted  to 
many  topics  of  Household  Taste,  Fancy 
Work  for  the  ladies,  and  containing 
hundreds  of  suggestions  of  Home  Deco- 
ration. 

IT  WILL  CONSTITUTE  VOLUME  3 


Williams'  Household  Series, 

Other  volumes  of  which  Series  will  ap- 
pear each  Spring  and  Fall,  hereafter. 

CONTENTS. 

Among  the  topics  which  "Ladies' 
Fancy  Work  "  will  treat  of,  are,—' 

Feather  Work,  Paper  Flowers,  Fire 
Screens,  Shrines,  Rustic  Pictures,  a 
charming  series  of  designs  for  Easter 
Crosses,  Straw  Ornaments,  Shell  Flowers 
and  Shell  work,  Bead  Mosaic,  and  Fish 
Scale  Embroidery,  Hair  Work,  Card- 
board Ornaments,  Fancy  Rubber 
Work,  Cottage  Foot  Rests,  Window 
Garden  Decorations.  Illuminating, 
Grecian  and  Oriental  Painting,  Crochet 
Work,  Modeling  in  Clay  and  Plaster, 
Fret-Work,  Wood  Carving,  designs  in 
Embroidery  ,and  an  immense  number  of 
designs  of  other  Fancy  Work  to  delight 
all  lovers  of  Household  Art  and  Recre- 
ations. 

The  volume  will  be  fully  equal  in 
elegance  to  the  volumes  of  the  HOUSE- 
HOLD SERIES,  already  issued,  and  in 
variety  of  topics,  and  abundance  of 
engravings,  will  probably  be  in  many 
respects  superior  in  interest. 

SPECIAL  NOTICE. 
Any  individual,  a  member  of  the 
trade,  desiring  advance  copies  of 
"LADIES'  FANCY  WORK,"  when 
ready,  may  forward  to  me  their  names 
for  record,  and  I  will  forward  to  them 
a  Circular  of  Announcement,  with  full 
description  of  Contents,  price  and 
exact  date  for  delivery,  by  mail  or  to 
the  book  trade. 

Price  $1.5O. 
HENRY  T.   WILLIAMS, 


PUBLISHER. 


46  Beekman  Street,  N,  Y. 


No.  4 


;  fill  I©  ndy  }prit  1,  l$fl. 


It  will  be  even   more   beautiful  in  appearance 
and  attractive  in  contents,  than  any  Vol- 
ume of  the  Series  yet  issued.     Will 
be   devoted  to    Subjects   of 


WOTH 

AA>cAb  cAiA^JU 


Title  not  yet  announced. 


PRICE, 


$1.BO. 


Henry  T.  Williams,  Publisher, 

46  Beekman  St.,  K  Y. 


THE  UNIVERSITY  LIBRARY 
UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA,   SANTA  CRUZ 

JAN  201989R»£NCE  LIBRARY 

This  book  is  due  on  the  last  DATE  stamped  below. 


«Mf  06  '09 
ON  1  5  198 


MAR  1 9  1990  REC'II 
)  p'ft 


Series  2477 


3  2106  00832  4110 


